May 2018 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: Rigging for my boat
by Dan Farrell 23 May '18

23 May '18

When I don't feel like trying to manhandle the thing, I usually do something similar. Instead of the mainsheet tackle, I use my jib sheet blocks , which are easier to detach. I clip one to the bow and one to the jib halyard. Then I run a long line from the bow cleat through the jib block and then the bow block and back to one of the jib sheet winches. It works very well and is pretty simple to rig up. I've done it at the dock a few times to retrieve skyed halyards and it worked. In a pinch, I think I'd do the same thing underway. I can't imagine trying to for a gallows comfortably on the 17. I'd be tempted to build a little removable triangle support instead , standing it up against the cockpit combings in line with the backstay and securing with guys to the backstay chainplates and jib cleats. Send like a cheap and easy thing to build, rig, and store when not in use! Dan Farrell M17 #301 John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net> wrote: >Agree with Jerry, use the jib halyard not the forestay. > >One good reason being,you need to detach and re-attach the forestay when >lowering/raising mast, so you want the tension of raising and lowering >on something else, not on the forestay. Otherwise...what's holding the >mast up, while you detach the forestay to lower or reattach it after >raising? How do you get a little slack in the forestay to get it connected? > >On my M-17 I raise/lower using jib halyard and additional line/tackle, >with attachment point forward being the bow pulpit. > >To lower I just use a line (clipped to jib halyard) with friction turns >around a winch, I can reach up & lower the mast weight OK myself from >rear of cockpit when the line gets too low angle to work. > >To raise I put my mainsheet tackle in the system. Boom block clips to >jib halyard. Traveler block with cam cleat clips to bow pulpit. That way >the cam cleat works to hold the raising line as I go up, I can pause >going up, move feet or hands, etc. any time with the line held by the cam. > >Also agree about simplicity...I like to keep my systems as simple as >possible to meet the essential needs. Less is more, as the saying >goes...less to tangle or trip over, less to maintain, less to take out >and put away, clean, dry, etc. > >cheers, >John S. > >On 05/21/2018 02:11 PM, jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org wrote: >> I don’t know about the gallows. A difference between Dave Scobie and myself is that he likes lots of gadgets and I like simplicity. I have the greatest respect for Dave- he’s a smart guy and is probably a better all-round sailor than I am. I like all the things that make a boat sail better and faster, and aside from that I like things that make it easier to sail but not at the expense of performance. I’m happy with a mast support that fits in the rudder gudgeons, and as soon as the mast goes up the support goes in the back of my truck, along with the tie-down lines. For you, since you need to lower the mast to go under the bridge, maybe it would work to just keep the mast support on the boat and drop the mast on it. obviously you’d need to sister the rudder gudgeons so you wouldn’t need to unship the rudder. To me, the gallows is weight aloft, and windage, both of which are detrimental to performance. When I anchor I’m perfectly happy to either hook the end of the boom to the backstay triangle, or, in the case of the M-15, which I’ve done some cruising in, using the main halyard, then furling the main on the boom and setting up the cockpit awning over the boom. I can see the value of a gallows on a “real” bluewater boat that will be sitting for days or weeks at anchor, but not a trailerable. >> >> I’m going to take the liberty of putting this thread on the M forum; some of those people will have something to say. M-17 owners- be aware that the Sage has the shrouds swept aft since it’s a 7/8 rig, so the M-23-type (also used on many others) of mast stabilizer won’t work as far as I can see. Doesn’t mean that some smart M-15 user, which has the same characteristic, hasn’t some up with a simple and ingenious way to get the job done. If so, hopefully you’ll hear from him/her. Good luck and I’ll get back to you if I come up with anything. >> >> From: Erik Stavrand >> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2018 1:27 PM >> To: jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org >> Subject: Re: Rigging for my boat >> >> Hi Jerry, >> >> Thanks for the suggestion - it is elegant. I’ll be interested in your thoughts after the race - good luck. >> >> Also - I’m thinking I’ll need a boom gallows (or a crutch for the boom and mast). As rigged from Sage can the mast come back with the boom attached? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Erik >> >> >> Erik Stavrand >> stavrand(a)me.com >> >> If your dreams don’t scare you they’re not big enough. >> >> >> >> >> On May 21, 2018, at 4:06 PM, jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org wrote: >> >> I'd use the jib halyard rather than the forestay. it might work to attach the halyard to the bow pulpit, then run it back to the winch as usual. You'd still need someone (or something) to keep the mast from going off to one side. I have a race this weekend and I'll think about it. I'm soon going to be 78 and am starting to get weak and wobbly so I need to work out something for my boat before I fall off! >> >> -----Original Message----- From: Erik Stavrand >> Sent: Monday, May 21, 2018 5:26 AM >> To: jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org >> Subject: Rigging for my boat >> >> Hi Jerry, >> >> I have a Sage 17 and am interested in your recommendation for a rapid mast raising system using the tabernacle. The marina near my house has a railway crossing that I’ll need to go under. Do you think the headstay could be led to a turning block and aft to the cockpit? >> >> Thanks in advance for your input! >> >> Erik >> >> Erik Stavrand >> 941-661-9609 >> > >-- >John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design >-------------------------------------------- >- Eco-Living - >Whole Systems Design Services >People - Place - Learning - Integration >john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 >http://eco-living.net >http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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Question on port cockpit locker lid/seat, early M17
by John Schinnerer 23 May '18

23 May '18

My M17 is #38, 1974. Has the small starboard locker/seat, and the longer port one. I am wondering if anyone can tell me what is on the underside of their port locker lid/seat, for a similar vintage boat, to brace/support the seat function of the lid. The small starboard lid/seat has a nice factory foam core with glass over it to stiffen it up. The port one, on mine, has an obviously DIY very badly done raised foam core and fiberglass attempt to stiffen it up. But it doesn't look like it replaced a failed OEM one, or that an OEM one was cut away (WTF would do that?)...? What (if anything) was used to support/stiffen the underside of the port seat/lid on early M17's? The hack job stiffener is coming loose along the edges (resin/glass wasn't bonded well to underside of seat) so I need to remove it and do something else to stiffen up that seat. I am thinking to just put a couple layers of 6 oz cloth and epoxy (or maybe just one will be enough). Way easier than trying to do a foam core stiffener. Any reason I should try and do something fancier? thanks, John S. -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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Re: M_Boats: montgomery_boats Montgomery 15 Trailer Strap (Mike Barnett)
by claritysailingadventures＠yahoo.com 21 May '18

21 May '18

In most states, not having a trailer strap on a boat the size of a 15 is illegal. In all states, it's unsafe and unwise. If you are towing a boat, you are responsible for it being legally and safely secured to the trailer. Regards, Mike Barnett http://claritysailingadventures.wordpress.com

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Montgomery 15 Trailer Strap
by David Grah 17 May '18

17 May '18

Our 1986 Montgomery 15 came to us on a Trail-Rite trailer. The boat is secured to the trailer with the winch strap at the front and a long strap made from what seems to be seat belt material that goes from the back corners of the trailer up over the boat. The strap attaches to the trailer with hooks sewn onto the strap and is tensioned in the middle with a metal "buckle". The buckle allows the strap to be adjusted to about the right length and then tensions the strap my flipping over with a lever. The strap is starting to cut through where it goes over the wrinkles on the side of the boat. I'd like to get the very same thing to buy new because it works well, but am not having luck with online searches. There are too many similar things and have no idea the best terminology to use in my searches. I could just get new seat belt strap material and use the old buckle and hooks, but don't have a good way to sew the hooks on to it. Does anyone know where I could get a whole new strap with hooks and "buckle"? Thanks! David GrahBishop California

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Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 Trailer Strap
by Jared Prindle 17 May '18

17 May '18

I’ll add my 2.5 cents. A strap is an easy and cheap thing to have so there’s really no excuse not to. The rear arse of a boat get a lot of bounce on the road and especially at freeway speeds. It’s like the tip of a whip. Here’s two short stories…I was trailering a small aluminum boat down in Baja. We’d been on a dirt road probably going about 8-10 mph for a few hrs taking breaks, aways going slow to be careful but at one point, I looked back and saw that my boat had bumped off the side of the trailer and was just attached at the eye. Fun times and no problems (No Problems was the name of several of my boats as there were always problems but they were always fun to fix and learn from). Just about 4 years ago I was trailering a larger fishing boat through Mexico way of San Felipe/Mexicali. After being on dirt for 20 min and pavement for about 3hrs, I had hit an unusually large (even for baja’s standards) pothole and my entire trailer popped off my ball. The safety cables being attached at the bottom of the neck/coupler ground through in less then 2 seconds. From my rear view mirror, I saw my boat sliding away getting more distant from my truck. Note that I was on a narrow 2 lane road, that was built up about 12’ above the salt flat we were crossing, and with only about 1-2 feet of shoulder before the 45 degree slope began. Essentially it was the worst place for this worst thing to happen. I was quite lucky in that I hit my breaks and semi re attached myself with the runaway trailer & boat and was able to guide it to a stop. All worked out ok in the end but it was another lesson for myself to double check all connections. The coupler was down and even had a padlock through it but either it wasn’t fully seated or there were some issues with the coupler. I have replaced all those components, purchased quality bolts, new chains, moved the chain mounting set up etc. No Problem right? A strap….why not. I have a LOT of trailer stories.

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Montgomery 15 Trailer Strap
by Thomas Buzzi 17 May '18

17 May '18

Tim, I have hauled my M17 around the country also but always preferred the belt and suspenders approach. For the strap I have used any number of Walmart available tiedowns. One each side, I just hook one end into the boat and the other the trailer frame. I make sure to twist the strap as I attach it to the frame. That seems to deaden the tendency for the strap to vibrate against the hull. Happy trails. Tom B

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Tie downs for Montgomery 15
by Bill Ahrens 13 May '18

13 May '18

Go to Harbor Freight, they have a wide variety of tie down straps. They are cheap and good quality. Come in packages of Multiples. Under $15. Bill Ahrens W. A. Ahrens & Associates

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Re: M_Boats: Centerboard pennant
by jerry＠jerrymontgomery.org 12 May '18

12 May '18

If my memory is correct, it seems like the drop is 15”. It’s limited by a knot in the pennant- simple but effective. You can measure this on the trailer; with the board up, simply measure to the knot. You need to be sure that the board is limited (by the knot) so that it doesn’t bottom out on the edge of the trunk. The knots have been known to migrate, and I’ve known the knots to have been removed (“the stupid previous owner had a knot in the pennant- can you believe that?”). I’m going to take the liberty of putting this on the M-list so that others will be reminded. From: John Sent: Saturday, May 12, 2018 9:29 AM To: jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org Subject: Centerboard pennant Hi Jerry, Being the designer/builder, I really appreciate and respect your opinion on the boat, hopefully my last question and thanks in advance: http://forum.trailersailor.com/post.php?id=1470234 Thanks, John Stevens

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Re: M_Boats: Unidentified M17 for sale in Oregon...
by bownez＠juno.com 10 May '18

10 May '18

Even with a stuck centerboard that is quite the buy. The trailer is worth $1200. Bones ____________________________________________________________ Good Morning America Confirms Unfortunate News greatsuperstars.world http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/5af43aedf493aec7c95st02vuc

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Unidentified M17 for sale in Oregon...
by John Schinnerer 10 May '18

10 May '18

Hi all, Just surfing craigslist before posting an old sailboard for sale. Tripped over this: https://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/boa/d/boat/6581170022.html Clearly an M17, fairly early model (flush hatch, aluminum toe rails), for $1200 on trailer. Has stanchions, jackline, stern pulpit. No info at all in ad and length is wrong. But if it's not a total wreck and the CB is not stuck, could be a heck of a deal for someone looking for an M17. General location appears to be up near Florence on the Oregon coast (about 3 hrs from where I am). I may contact them just to see what I can find out... cheers, John -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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