July 2006 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Any tips to fit a M-17 (on Pacific Trailers trailer) under a 7-ft x 20 ft garage?
by Carlos Albar-Diaz 26 Jul '06

26 Jul '06

Dear everyone, I have done some research as to how to get my M-17 to fit in a garage that is 20ft long and has a 7-ft high door opening. I concluded that it can be done with some modification to the trailer, but (because the trailer is old and rusty) it may be better to get a new trailer if it fits in a garage without any changes. This is important because I am moving to Denver and it will be difficult to store teh boat there if it is not in the garage. Bob Eeg (thanks to him!) suggested that some M-17 owners with a trailer from Pacific trailers had no trouble in fitting the boat and trailer into a 20 ft long garage (presumably with a standard 7-ft high door opening) by removing the tongue (to fit in the 20 ft) and unhooking from the car (to lower the pulpit below 7 ft). Can you please let me know if you have any experience (good or bad) in parking your M-17 inside your garage on a trailer made by Pacific Trailers? I am particulary interested in knowing: - height of your door opening -length of the garage - how high does the pulpit stand (from the ground) when hooked to the car - how high does the pulpit stand when unhooked form the car, with the tongue sitting on the floor. - what special technique do you use (deflating tires, unhook from car and lower tongue by hand and remove tongue before pushing teh boat into the garage)? I will greatly appreciate your help! Regards Carlos

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Re: M_Boats: Dismasting due to old rigging
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 26 Jul '06

26 Jul '06

Bobbie, Just a suggestion, in the form of cheap 'insurance'. Have Fun! GO “I've learned that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel.” -- Maya Angelou

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Re: M_Boats: Dismasting due to old rigging
by GILASAILR＠aol.com 26 Jul '06

26 Jul '06

Bobby, In light of this thread, may I suggest ordering a new set and then sail with confidence only new rigging can provide! Jerry can get them out - right size No worry. Good Luck, Good Sailing GOberbeck M-17 #316a “I've learned that people will forget what you said, people will forget what you did, but people will never forget how you made them feel.” -- Maya Angelou

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Re: Replacement lines, motors, etc.
by George Morrison 26 Jul '06

26 Jul '06

Bobbie, The ClamCleat used for the Jib Halyard on my 1985 M15 is a vinyl "ClamCleat Vertical CL201", I took it off and looked at the bottom. It too no longer holds my line very well. I looked at the teeth, there is rope burn that has dulled the edges. I'm going to use the aluminium version (CL219, or a CL219 AN) as a direct replacement, same manufacture and hole pattern. George M15 #319

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Dismasting due to old rigging
by Nebwest2＠aol.com 26 Jul '06

26 Jul '06

Thomas, You can get replacement rigging direct from Jerry Montgomery himself. He now operates his own rigging service and has a webpage at: www.jerrymontgomery.org On his page he lists prices for M17 and M15 rigging. I believe that shrouds and forestays are about $21.00 a piece. Since he already knows the measurements you won't have to provide them to him or have to send your rigging in to be duplicated like you would at a shop that's not familiar with Monty's Hope that helps Sean

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Dismasting due to old rigging
by Bobbie Mayer 25 Jul '06

25 Jul '06

My cabin top got messed up years ago when a helpful crew member undid the forestay instead of the jib, and the mast fell down, ripping the bolts out of the deck. I used large washers that covered the holes and re-attached the bolts (I think I sealed everything with something, too but it was many years ago so I don't remember.) It is still holding today, but I rarely leave the mast up. Bobbie

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removing rivets
by Bobbie Mayer 25 Jul '06

25 Jul '06

No M content= H instead. My sister is trying to replace a part on an old Hobie 16, and needs to remove old rivets. How can she do this? Bobbie

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Re: M_Boats: removing rivets
by Carlos Albar-Diaz 25 Jul '06

25 Jul '06

Bobbie, If you are taking about the "pop" rivets (ie the ones with the hole in the center) that you find in masts, etc, I suggest you drill them with a 3mm (1/8 in) bit. That works fine. Good luck Carlos On 7/25/06, Bobbie Mayer <barbaram(a)csufresno.edu> wrote: > > No M content= H instead. My sister is trying to replace a part on an > old Hobie 16, and needs to remove old rivets. How can she do this? > > Bobbie > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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Re: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 41, Issue 14
by Jeffco923＠aol.com 25 Jul '06

25 Jul '06

Jan, I have an M 17 in my airplane hangar at Aurora. I would be glad to show you mine anytime. Cliff

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Replacement lines, motors, etc.
by Bobbie Mayer 25 Jul '06

25 Jul '06

Jerry, thanks for the info on replacement sheets, they work great and the jam cleats work, too, now. So what do I replace the jib halyard with? It also won't cleat so I would like to replace it. (Though as I recall it never did stay cleated very well- maybe a better bet would be to put a regular cleat below the jam cleat? What I've usually done is lower the centerboard and then run the jib halyard down to the centerboard cleat. I'm ready to throw the motor overboard as an extra anchor. It works whenever I test it, and won't start whenever I need it. On a lake I'd just do without a motor, but on the Sound I have to have a way to fight the tide when the wind dies. Motors are second only to trailer lights in annoyance value. Bobbie

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