September 2002 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: Boat Yards In Southern California
by Derfsails＠aol.com 10 Sep '02

10 Sep '02

Good Morning, Has anyone had experience with boat yards in southern California? I want to get a barrier coat applied and have the bottom painted on my M-23. Any input would be greatly appreciated, thanks. Fred

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colapsing trunk?
by dik lang 09 Sep '02

09 Sep '02

I have heard a lot of talk about sticking centerboards and always thought it just due to marine growth and or rust on the board. How can the trunk colapse? How many boats actually suffer from this? It would seem the easiest way to remedy the rust issue would be to drop the board, grind it smooth and coat with epoxy. Why bother with replacing with a glassed lead one (though it does sound totally cool!). _________________________________________________________________ Join the worlds largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail. http://www.hotmail.com

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RE: M_Boats: tiller
by Jorge, Maria 09 Sep '02

09 Sep '02

Hi Rich: Do you have the contact information for Frank Royce? Thanks. Maria Jorge -----Original Message----- From: rc2222(a)postoffice.pacbell.net [mailto:rc2222@postoffice.pacbell.net] Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 3:18 PM To: Montgomery Boats Subject: M_Boats: tiller Hi Connie and Tom: I've sailed Really with the J24 Tiller last week in 10 knot steady winds with gusts to 14. Really really sailed well. I didn't need the Forespar at all. As I expected, there was minimal tension on the tiller when going windward. There's also room for two people to sit forward of the tiller, although, it would be a little tight. You have better control of the mainsheet and running lines. Best of all, your weight is right where it's needed without having to stretch your arm to reach the tiller. The tiller and rudder fits just fine in the cabin but I think a 54" tiller might not make it. When attaching the rudder and tiller to the transom, remember to put the tiller under the bridle first because you can't slip it under later. My custom-made M15 tiller arrives next week. The cost is $ 46.00 plus $ 7.50 shipping. Frank Royce has been great to work with. Jerry Montgomery recommended him in a 1996 issue of the Montgomery Newsletter. My only reservation is that Jerry also sold his M15 molds to Chuck McCoy and I'm still waiting for my new boat. Rich Cottrell. _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: tiller
by Conbert H Benneck 07 Sep '02

07 Sep '02

Hi Rich, Glad to hear that your J24 tiller is working out so well. I have gone on a different tack. Before I made a new and improved tiller, I thought I'd play with the existing one, and find out how long I want it; how high the end should be for easy holding; and what the problems in the cockpit might be with the longer tiller. My solution was to build a tiller extension that fitted on top of the existing tiller. The bottom was hollowed out to fit the curvature of the top of the existing tiller. I drilled a hole in the extension and inserted a pin which fitted into the Forespar fitting. It serves two purposes. The tiller can't move fore and aft, and it can't rotate and slide from it's designated position. My first test was to clamp it in place, but then, on the second test, I used those wonderful "velcro" strips that I get in the supermarket, and which are used by growers to hold the romaine lettuce and celery stalks together. I wrapped the velcro around both tillers and then slid it up the inclined plane, formed by the two tillers, till it was tight. A second velcro strip up at the pin end completed the installation. First test in light airs: - seating position is optimal. - you don't need the Forespar extension to comfortably hold the tiller, sitting at the forward end of the cockpit - steering "feel" is vastly improved. - steering (course holding accuracy) is improved - with the longer lever arm to the rudder, the pressure on the tiller decreases from what it was, when the wind pipes up; or the gusts hit. - you can stand up, leaning on the edges of the companionway and steer with the tiller between your legs. - my tiller end is now about 3 inches above where the normal tiller is. I want to play with this location before making it permanent. While I'm at it, I can fine-tune the new extension to exactly my tastes and requirments. - I like it very much: My only thought at this point is, can I redesign it so that I can raise the whole tiller out of the way to have a clear cockpit; while at the same time having the standard length plus the extension length - which allows me still more freedom in operation. Will keep you posted, as my playing and testing progress. Connie

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Re: M_Boats: Kerosene anchor and running lights
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 07 Sep '02

07 Sep '02

Lewis, I'm not the guy who you are looking for concerning kero lamps but here is some other info... My wife and I cruised the Bahamas for a year without electricity. We relied only on kerosene for lighting and cooking. Both running, anchor and cabin used kero lamps (all of these were marine fixtures, not hardware store lanterns). The big hassle outside is having the flame burn out from the wind. The next problem was the lens got sooted up and had to be cleaned often. We used a 50/50 mix of mineral spirits and kero to take care of the sooting problems. On the interior the mineral spirits had very little odor compared to kero. Regardless of what you use the wicks will need to be dressed often if you burn them for high lighting. Bill P. in Florida

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tiller
by rc2222＠postoffice.pacbell.net 07 Sep '02

07 Sep '02

Hi Connie and Tom: I've sailed Really with the J24 Tiller last week in 10 knot steady winds with gusts to 14. Really really sailed well. I didn't need the Forespar at all. As I expected, there was minimal tension on the tiller when going windward. There's also room for two people to sit forward of the tiller, although, it would be a little tight. You have better control of the mainsheet and running lines. Best of all, your weight is right where it's needed without having to stretch your arm to reach the tiller. The tiller and rudder fits just fine in the cabin but I think a 54" tiller might not make it. When attaching the rudder and tiller to the transom, remember to put the tiller under the bridle first because you can't slip it under later. My custom-made M15 tiller arrives next week. The cost is $ 46.00 plus $ 7.50 shipping. Frank Royce has been great to work with. Jerry Montgomery recommended him in a 1996 issue of the Montgomery Newsletter. My only reservation is that Jerry also sold his M15 molds to Chuck McCoy and I'm still waiting for my new boat. Rich Cottrell.

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Kerosene anchor and running lights
by Lewis Baumstark 07 Sep '02

07 Sep '02

Several weeks ago, during the discussion of alternative light sources, someone posted that he used a hardware store aquired "hurricane lamp" that he burned charcoal lighter fuel in and used for a anchor light. I would very much like to be able to ask that person a couple of questions, but have lost the post. If that person would contact me off list I would really appreciate it. Lewis Baumstark WWP15 Bristol, TN

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Congratulations to Montgomery racers
by Doug Kelch 06 Sep '02

06 Sep '02

Congratulations on the excellent showing at the SCA event. The Monty's dominate the racing results again. Special congratulations to Steve Eshleman, M15 #102. He trailered from AZ to MD for the CBR. He tuned up his racing skills at the CBR trying to keep up with Bill Riker (new full batten main) and had his first solo Bay crossing in 25 kts winds and large breaking waves. Steve then towed his M15 back to AZ and out to the left coast for his first ever race. In one summer he has sailed both coasts and finished third in his first race ever and it was in a competitive fleet! Thanks to all for the good showing. Doug Kelch "Seas the Day" __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance - Get real-time stock quotes http://finance.yahoo.com

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Re: M_Boats: Electric system
by Harvey Wilson 06 Sep '02

06 Sep '02

Hi Jerry.. Harvey Wilson 3645 Sinclair Shores Rd. Cumming, Ga 30041 The check's in the mail <GG>

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Re: M_Boats: Older M17 Centerboard
by dik lang 05 Sep '02

05 Sep '02

not at all, I just pulled the boat for the first time in my ownership and it is flush with the trunk bottom. >From: "Honshells" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> >Reply-To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com >To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> >Subject: M_Boats: Older M17 Centerboard >Date: Mon, 2 Sep 2002 14:22:35 -0400 > > >Older M17 owners: Does your cast-iron centerboard protrude from your keel >at all when fully retracted and resting on your trailer's keel roller? > > > >_______________________________________________ >http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com

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