March 2002 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

RE: M_Boats: new boat
by Morris, Giles 18 Mar '02

18 Mar '02

> Is the pennant really frayed and needing replacement Replacing the pennant is easy if (If!) you can get the keel far enough off the ground to let it drop so you can get to the attachment. It's just a line with a knot in it that nestles in a hole in the board. No need at all to remove the board. Most of the work is getting the boat into a position where the board can drop. Giles Morris Arlington VA Montgomery 15 #264 "Umiaq" Vancouver 25 #002 Dolphin Sundry kayaks

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RE: M_Boats: Introduction
by Morris, Giles 18 Mar '02

18 Mar '02

>But I still have yet to see one up close After sailing from Quiet Waters Park, at the head of Spa Creek in Annapolis, I was just driving around the small waterside roads of the town when I saw the Most Beautiful Boat up on blocks in a yard. It was after sunset, and I couldn't see what it was. Drove around for a while until I found a way in and finally walked up to it in the gathering dusk. "This boat is Gorgeous!". Turned out to be a Flicka. Green topsides. Going to paint Dolphin's topsides that color when she next gets hauled out. Giles Morris Arlington VA Montgomery 15 #264 "Umiaq" Vancouver 25 #002 Dolphin Sundry kayaks

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Re: M_Boats: new boat
by Conbert H Benneck 18 Mar '02

18 Mar '02

Hi Cherri, I can't help with changing out the centerboard pennant. That is something I haven't done, and from the look of mine, don't anticipate doing it for years to come. My first question: Is the pennant really frayed and needing replacement, or is this just a "let's do it and start from square 1 knowing it is OK"? The M Archives have a lot of correspondence about removing the centerboard, so if you really want to change the pennant, you will probably have to drop the centerboard first; then install the new pennant and then replace the board in it's slot. First piece of advice re: centerboards: The pennant has to have a knot in it so that the board can't go to it's lowest position. The reason being, the weight of the board and the lever-arm at the centerboard pin could cause damage if the board is allowed to drop all the way without putting in the knot as a stop. The easiest way to find the right place for the knot is to very gently lower the board (with the boat in the water) to find out how far down it goes. Now pull it up about 2 inches: that is where you want the knot to stop the descent of the board. The knot now takes the loading of the weight of the board, not the board mounting pin. ------------- Rigging the boat is simple. You have a forestay, and two shrouds. These three hold the mast in position. I use the aft holes in the chain plates in order to get a bit of mast rake aft - which Jerry recommends for better upwind performance. Getting the forestay in place, if you have the original pin in the "U" channel is a chore. After doing this once or twice I hollered for help and was advised to get a "Quick Release Shroud Lever" WEST Catalog page 486 Item No. 24175. This shroud release lever allows you to put a quick release pin - Avibank Ball-Lok Quick-Release Pin WEST Catalog page 197 (sorry I can't give you the length I used, you'll have to measure it) in the bow fitting. This attaches the forestay to the bow fitting. Then you can flip the lever on the Quick Release Shroud Lever and tension the forestay. The unit comes with a ball pin that you then put in place, and your rig is up and reay for action. While raising the mast, I use the jib halyard to help raise the mast and to hold it in position while I fasten the Quick Release Shroud Lever. -------- I put a small Harken block at the mast head and run a thin line to the boom to act as a topping lift. The topping lift is cleated off near the boom on the mast (Stbd side). ------- I don't know what kind of a mast support you have at the stern of the boat. On mine, the original stainless steel tube had been shortened. This meant that I couldn't get the mast to clear the edge of the companionway hatch while getting the mast end into the cheeks and inserting the bolt to hold the mast in place. I had to build a support extension, which then gave me the right angle so that the foot of the mast was properly in the mast cheeks and I could put in the bolt. Give it a dry run at home to make sure how it works - and if it works! Connie ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.

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Re: M_Boats: Re: M_Boats Introduction
by Conbert H Benneck 18 Mar '02

18 Mar '02

Hi Deena and Harvey, Thanks for your kind words. When I'm out sailing I want my peace and quiet; I want to hear the gurgle of a chuckling bow wave; not the the high pitched whine of PWCs wake jumping; or Cigarettes with 2 x 1000 HP engines that you hear coming for five minutes and going for five minutes. Maybe it's high time to set up a silence preserve for sailors and paddlers: the cry of the loon; the splash of a fish; those are the loudest noises I want to hear! By the way, last year I bought a SONY CD player and two small SONY speakers for LEPPO. Now I can enjoy good music while sailing and the unit's size make them ideal for a Montgomery 15. Almost 0 space requirement; runs on AA batteries (25 hours); weighs ounces, and produces great sound. Would work in your canoe too! Connie ________________________________________________________________ GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO! Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less! Join Juno today! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.

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Re: M_Boats Introduction
by Harvey Hochstetter 18 Mar '02

18 Mar '02

Connie, You hit the proverbial "nail on the head" with your first paragraph, "...I want my peace and quiet when I'm out on the boat." I like your philosophy, and that's why I have a sailboat in stead of a power boat. It's why I've had paddle craft for all of my adult life, and its why I'm not tied to a marina dock. Thank you for your frequent, thoughtful, and always helpful notes on this list. Harvey & Deena H M-15 #348 "Pelican" Walla Walla, WA

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Re: M_Boats: Introduction
by Randy Watkins 17 Mar '02

17 Mar '02

Harvey I had the same idea. I've looked over a couple of Flickas and what a boat. When I mention the idea to my wife she just says, fine as long as you pay cash. It keeps it the reality range. I'm saving, and enjoying my current boats. Randy W. M15 & Classic Dingy 10 <<< HarveyWilson(a)compuserve.com 3/16 9:59p >>> There is a Flicka with outboard at my old dock, and a diesel version at another marina on Lake Lanier, Ga. As good looking as a Montgomery, IMO, and something that I'd love to upgrade to. Harvey/Ga M-17 Stargazer #294 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: Stern Ladder Mounting
by Randy Watkins 17 Mar '02

17 Mar '02

Harvey, I think you would need some type of backing plate. I added an adjustable motor bracket a couple of years ago ( actually I had a reputable shop do it ) and they installed an inspection port to adjust the nuts. Let us know how the project turns out. I have simple man overboard ladder that would work in an emergency. It stays in the cockpit locker when not in use. take care, Randy Watkins M15#194 <<< LoHHochs(a)ihc.com 3/17 5:56a >>> Good Morning All, I am considering mounting a stern ladder with a small platform on the stern, opposite side of the tiller from the OB mount. I saw one in the West Marine catalog that has a small platform in conjunction with the ladder. It would give the function of: 1. Boarding ladder, 2. Swim platform, 3. Platform to store a plastic jerry can with fuel for the outboard on that would be outside of the boat. the idea for that would be that any escaping fumes would not be into the boat to settle in the cockpit, cabin sole or bilge. I'm soliciting thoughts on 1. practicality of the platform. 2. durability of (stainless/teak) platform, 3. the idea of using the platform for a fuel storage accessory. 4. need of backing the mount on the inboard side of the transom, and 5. the thickness of that stern transom wall. My reasoning for using the platform for a fuel storage platform is that I am concerned about the possibility of having any fuel fumes entering the boat anywhere, and I think that with the tank on the outside it would decrease the possibility of that happening. Thank you all for sharing your ideas and expertise. Harvey & Deena H M-15 #348 PELICAN Walla Walla, WA _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: Welcome Joe
by Harvey Hochstetter 17 Mar '02

17 Mar '02

Hi Tom, I have to admit to not having sailed on the Columbia at Tri-cities, however, I have been on the water down stream at Wallullu Junction, ( Port Kelley where the Walla Walla Yacht Club is,) and up above the confluence of the Snake and Columbia at a place called Charbenau which is just up river from Ice Harbor Dam, ( which, I believe is where the Tri-cities club sails.) The dam below Tri-cities on the Columbia is McNary Dam and is at Hermiston, Oregon. From there up to Port Kelly is about 20 miles of generally westerly running river with high hills on both banks. The river width varies but is close to a mile wide for the full run. The wind is generally out of the west, variable from 0 to 20ish. The current varies from 1-2 up to about 5k and is running to the west, which can make for some pretty wavy sailing due to the long fetch. The launch facilities at Hat Rock are in a state park and are OK for Montgomery sizes, however it would be cramped for anything much over 20 feet. The park closes at dusk, so parking there for over night is not available since it is a day use only park, however there is a nice RV park about a mile up the road that is willing to work with you for over night parking if you wanted to park there for an overnight sail upriver. I don't believe that over night moorage is possible at the park, which is sad because it is a nice park. At Port Kelly, the river turns NNW, towards Tri-cities, and the confluence with the Snake. The westward bank of high hills continue. On the east side, the Walla Walla river runs into the big river washing considerable silt into it and forcing the navigable channel to the western half of the river. The westerly winds coming over the Horse Heaven Hills and mixing with the wind being funneled up the river before the bend, mix to make sailing the bend a bit of a challenge due to the puffy, fickle nature of the breeze and the currents generated as the river narrows and turns. I have not been on the Columbia between Wallulu Junction and up to Tri-cities but I know there are multiple small islands, and shallows on the eastern side of the river for the whole distance, some 18-20 miles. There are marshy areas and a Wildlife ( Bird ) Refuge there below the confluence with the Snake. I have rarely seen boating activity in the area except the rare fishing boat. To the west, the hills lay down and the winds should be more consistent than down in the bed though. The Tri-cities Sailing Club, as far as I know, do most of there activities at Charbenou, a very nice park, just above the Ice Harbor Dam, about 8 miles up the Snake River from the Columbia. I have only sailed there once, but again it is a mostly east-west oriented course. The river width varies 1/4 mile to maybe a mile wide. The banks are much lower, so the winds are much less affected, the scenery is more bland here, but you have about 30 mile to go up river before you come to the next dam. The launch site is superb, back into the water, turn 180 degrees, and sail out on a beam reach. There is a small marina there, and overnight camping facilities and mooring available. I don't know much about the river in Tri-cities itself, except that they do the Thunder boat races there every summer, so I hope what I have given you is of some help. the Tri-cities sailing club does have a web site however I do not have the address here. At one time I did run the river maps from McNary to above Charbenau on Mapquest I believe. Also, West marine has a chart book of the Columbia/Snake system for around $40, which will need to become part of my library aboard, but hasn't made it there yet. Come on up, over or around and lets do some sailing. Harvey & Deena H M-15 #348 PELICAN Walla Walla, WA

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Teak Bedding
by Rotortom2＠aol.com 17 Mar '02

17 Mar '02

I have taken the teak off of "Wild Hare" for refinishing, and now have a question concerning the bedding of those parts upon re-installation. When I took them off, it seemed as if the only thing between the teak rails and the deck was several years of crud that accumulated. Upon re-installation, should I bed the teak parts, and if so, with what? I don't want water to intrude into the holes which the screws go through on the cabin top, so what is the proper procedure? Also, does anybody have a good way to clean up the aluminum toe rails. Mine are a scruffy looking black, and will not clean up no matter what I try (Wax, mild abrasives, etc.). Looking forward to a little nicer weather in New Mexico. The temperatures are alright but we are experiencing the typical March winds that drive a person batty. 40 MPH winds just don't cut it! Tom Woodworth M-17 "Wild Hare"

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Mboat info
by Randy Watkins 17 Mar '02

17 Mar '02

Hello Fellow sailors, Here are a couple of items that are of interest to Mboaters. 1. The Small Craft Advisor magazine has a discussion going about the M15 & M17 and pointing ability. Those of us that sail one know how well they point. If there's someone that could explain the "why" that would be beneficial to the discussion. This is great , honest magazine and well worth the cost of subscription. http://www.smallcraftadvisor.com/ 2. Doug King has posted a story / article about Jerry M. sailing the Sea of Cortez in a M15. It's good reading and will make you want to go cruising. Doug did a great job setting the article up as it was sent to him in a scanned ( Word ) format and kind of rough around the edges. http://msog.org/ Take care Randy & Greta Watkins M15#194

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