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Dinghy inflatable v ridged
by Jon Barber 30 May '21

30 May '21

If you only need a dinghy for getting to and fro from your boat you could do what I do to access your boat; swim! It's much easier than dealing with a second boat, provides refreshing exercise, allows you to assess your boat boarding abilities. My boat is 1/4 mile offshore. With swim find it us an easy trip. Just a thought. Jon Barber Monty17 Ol'44

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Trail-Rite Hub / Axle Replacement
by David Grah 28 May '21

28 May '21

We found I did not check the tightness of the lug nuts on our trailer yesterday and managed to destroy a wheel, the studs on the hub, probably the bearings, and maybe the axle on the drivers side before we stopped to figure out what "that noise" was. The trailer is unusable because of the damage so the boat on the trailer sits in Lida, Nevada until I can make a repair or, more likely, get the trailer on a trailer, bring it home, and do the work here. I think the Trail-Rite trailer is original to the 1986 Montgomery 15. I am almost certain the inside bearings were destroyed in the carnage and the axle was damaged where the inside seal rides. I admit to having almost no experience working on trailers but think it may make sense for me to plan on replacing the whole axle and hubs assembly, assuming I can get an appropriate quality axle / hub set. Although the first project is to get the boat home, any insights and advice on how to evaluate the damage to the trailer and go about getting parts for it would be greatly appreciated! David GrahMontgomery 15Bishop California

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New axle
by Jon Barber 28 May '21

28 May '21

I would take the new axle with hubs attached and install in the field. Not a huge job, esp on a M-15 trailer. Why drive home on a bad bearing? Unless it is a very short distance. On Fri, May 28, 2021, 6:51 AM <montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: > Send montgomery_boats mailing list submissions to > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via email, send a message with subject or > body 'help' to > montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > montgomery_boats-owner(a)mailman.xmission.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of montgomery_boats digest..." > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Mooring attachment (Henry Rodriguez) > 2. Dinghy inflatable v ridged (Jon Barber) > 3. Re: Dinghy inflatable v ridged (Jason Leckie) > 4. Trail-Rite Hub / Axle Replacement (David Grah) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Date: Thu, 27 May 2021 10:59:14 -0500 > From: Henry Rodriguez <heinzir(a)gmail.com> > Subject: M_Boats: Re: Mooring attachment > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: > <CAMKG1h+C=84d= > 6oqM0rT_Ns2syKNSHn12eDFChk+nWWCdTEd8g(a)mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > A few thoughts about keeping the boat on the mooring: > My M17 has lived on a mooring for the last 7 years, and my VN23 for about > 30 years. I use the method you describe with a large ss carabiner to the > bow eye and a longer safety (and pickup line) to the bow cleat. There is no > chafe because this second line is normally slack. Chocks are still a good > idea.. It is important, of course, to make sure the bow eye is securely > attached and well backed, just as you would the deck cleat. Make sure to > use only a LOCKING carabiner. The regular kind can and will get itself > twisted in such a way that it opens itself. Ask me how I know. Thank > goodness for the second line. A 1/2" stainless locking carabiner has > worked well for me and never come undone. > > I row out to the boat in my dinghy--an 8' El Toro with oarlocks. The first > thing I do is disconnect the carabiner from the bow eye and attach it to > the dinghy painter. The boat is still attached to the buoy by the second > line to the bow cleat. I board the boat, raise the sails, drop the line > from the bow cleat and get under way. The process is reversed when > returning. No need ever to use the motor. I have have a couple of sections > of pool noodles on the back up line to make it easy to pick up with the > boat hook. Drop the eye over the bow cleat, drop the sails and get > everything ship shape, get in the dinghy, hook the carabiner to the bow eye > and row away. > > On Thu, May 27, 2021, 8:45 AM Andrei Caldararu via montgomery_boats < > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: > > > Thank you all for your responses. Some answers to the suggestions that > > were raised. > > > > In my place there is no dock available; I need to be able to haul my > > family to and from the boat. So a kayak or small folding dinghy won’t > work > > — I need whatever I get to carry 3-4 people when needed. > > > > What I described above would be the main use of the dinghy, but > definitely > > being able to carry it with me on the boat (or tow it behind) would be > > something I could use in the future, when I will make longer, overnight > > trips. > > > > In the end I decided and got the Zodiac. It seemed to be in very good > > condition, and it holds air really well. There are a few seams that are > > unrelated to the air bags that seem to need a bit of attention, but these > > should be easy to reglue. BTW, does anyone have a recommended glue for > this? > > > > Two new questions. > > > > 1) What kind of oars would you guys recommend for it? > > 2) I know this has been discussed many times over on the list, but what > is > > the consensus about how to attach an M-17 (newer, teak toerails) to a > > mooring buoy with a floating pendant? I saw many people suggest using a > big > > stainless steel carabiner attached to the towing eye on the front of the > > boat, combined with a second line going to the bow cleat. I am just > > concerned about chafing against the side of the boat for the second line, > > because I have no rail chocks. > > > > Thanks! > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Thu, 27 May 2021 09:45:57 -0700 > From: Jon Barber <brbrbarber(a)gmail.com> > Subject: M_Boats: Dinghy inflatable v ridged > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Message-ID: > <CAFwAWQuNgBttEmQKJocd6go0raawp= > JL_vJPPAPOe7rDPedUyA(a)mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > If you only need a dinghy for getting to and fro from your boat you could > do what I do to access your boat; swim! It's much easier than dealing with > a second boat, provides refreshing exercise, allows you to assess your > boat boarding abilities. My boat is 1/4 mile offshore. With swim find it us > an easy trip. Just a thought. > > Jon Barber > Monty17 > Ol'44 > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Thu, 27 May 2021 13:38:42 -0700 > From: Jason Leckie <leckie.jas(a)gmail.com> > Subject: M_Boats: Re: Dinghy inflatable v ridged > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: > <CAD2xLyS6vLy3-Pt__zdDp= > Bj7XxVkN84L-Ukm0Vpg4S9gZqs2w(a)mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > An inflatable paddleboard is what I use, works well, I can inflate and > deflate in the cockpit or pull it behind the boat, depending on the > situation. Stores easily and is quite stable. > > Jason Leckie > Kuma M17 > > > On Thu, May 27, 2021 at 9:46 AM Jon Barber <brbrbarber(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > If you only need a dinghy for getting to and fro from your boat you could > > do what I do to access your boat; swim! It's much easier than dealing > with > > a second boat, provides refreshing exercise, allows you to assess your > > boat boarding abilities. My boat is 1/4 mile offshore. With swim find it > us > > an easy trip. Just a thought. > > > > Jon Barber > > Monty17 > > Ol'44 > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 28 May 2021 13:51:11 +0000 (UTC) > From: David Grah <d_b_grah(a)yahoo.com> > Subject: M_Boats: Trail-Rite Hub / Axle Replacement > To: For and About Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: <1145265834.1180009.1622209871452(a)mail.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 > > We found I did not check the tightness of the lug nuts on our trailer > yesterday and managed to destroy a wheel, the studs on the hub, probably > the bearings, and maybe the axle on the drivers side before we stopped to > figure out what "that noise" was. The trailer is unusable because of the > damage so the boat on the trailer sits in Lida, Nevada until I can make a > repair or, more likely, get the trailer on a trailer, bring it home, and do > the work here. > I think the Trail-Rite trailer is original to the 1986 Montgomery 15. I am > almost certain the inside bearings were destroyed in the carnage and the > axle was damaged where the inside seal rides. I admit to having almost no > experience working on trailers but think it may make sense for me to plan > on replacing the whole axle and hubs assembly, assuming I can get an > appropriate quality axle / hub set. > Although the first project is to get the boat home, any insights and > advice on how to evaluate the damage to the trailer and go about getting > parts for it would be greatly appreciated! > > David GrahMontgomery 15Bishop California > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > montgomery_boats mailing list -- montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > To unsubscribe send an email to > montgomery_boats-leave(a)mailman.xmission.com > %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > > > ------------------------------ > > End of montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 219, Issue 14 > ************************************************* >

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Inflatable or rigid?
by Andrei Caldararu 27 May '21

27 May '21

Hello fellow Monty owners, For this year I have decided to moor my M17 in a small bay on Lake Michigan, by our house. To get to it I need some kind of dinghy. I don’t want something expensive, and I narrowed my choices to two options. One is an older Zodiac 8’ inflatable (C250, with rigid flat wood floor), the other is a West Marine 9.4 trihull tender. Either of them would come with a 2.5hp outboard, and the WM one would also come with oars. My research shows that each has its advantages. The inflatable can be easily stowed under the deck when I go away for a trip for a few days. For the winter it does not take up space in the garage. Being lighter, I can lift it up easily by myself. The trihull can be left outside over the summer; can be rowed; and I can drag it over our beach (which is made of crushed up shells, so would puncture the inflatable). Plus it probably has a longer life. But I would not be able to take it with me to use as a tender, and would be a PIA to move anywhere. (I don’t have a trailer or a pickup truck, so putting it on top of the car is hard.) I am now slightly leaning towards the inflatable, but I am concerned about its age. It is 32 years old, but appears to have been mostly kept in its bag. It holds up air just fine, a week after being inflated it was still hard. What are your thoughts on this? Thanks, Andrei.

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Deck Painting
by Sailing Spark 21 May '21

21 May '21

The previous owner of *Tea *M17 #406 painted her non-skid areas battleship gray. As I am not a navy man and I would prefer not to have to deal with the hot decks this colour would induce, I am starting the planning on repainting it. My question is: How much paint to buy to paint the decks and cabin top? I am thinking 2 quarts, but I would like to get a better idea before I order. Thanks Art M17 #406 *Tea*

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Inflatable or Rigid?
by brad kurlancheek 20 May '21

20 May '21

Andrei, Another possibility is a Folding Kayak, if you haven't considered that. It will fit easily into the cabin. Mine cost under $300. About 30 lbs/ Haven't tried it yet! but it looks like it will get the job done. I have a Tucktec Eco 10 footer. Came with paddle, foldup seat, bailer and accesories bag. Good luck - Brad

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M15 teak hatch boards
by Jim Sadler 20 May '21

20 May '21

Any one sell them? Thanks Capt jim Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>

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Re: Montgomery's on Lake Powell 2020
by George R Iemmolo 12 May '21

12 May '21

Wort the time On May 10, 2021, at 7:51 PM, David Grah via montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: In case anyone is looking for a way to waste several minutes I posted a video of our trip last year to Lake Powell in a Montgomery 15 and a Montgomery 17: https://youtu.be/hd2Mr19UF8A David GrahBishop California

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Re-rigging
by Cap Keith 12 May '21

12 May '21

Hi Jon, I recently bought a M17 (1980) whose standing rigging is Dyneema. Since I didn’t feel comfortable with this type of rigging or how it was setup, I decided to re-rig with standard SS. The rigger had many interesting comments about the use of Dyneema on the Montgomery. Essentially, since the M17 isn’t a performance boat, Dyneema shouldn’t be used. It is made for high loads, racing, and performance boats. If there are any chafe points, or if it receives a snag, it is subject to failure (of course, while under load). Since our boats are trailerable, the repeated raising, lowering, and storing of the rig will increase the chances of chafing, nicks/cuts, etc. And just as important to me, it was pointed out that the shelf or viable “use life” of Dyneema is about 4 years. The website, www.marlowropes.com<http://www.marlowropes.com> is an excellent source of information on Dyneema... both used for standing and running rigging. Anyway, Jon, that’s my take from the information I was able to find (internet and from my rigger). Sail on! Keith K Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>

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Rerig
by Jon Barber 11 May '21

11 May '21

I was not clear in my previous post. I am thinking of replacing my standing rigging. The current rigging is wire with crimps and is on its sixth season. I built the rig myself. All the turnbuckles are if an unknown age. Everything is functioning OK. I would like to have the ability to adjust the mast rake fore and aft like Gary O suggested; with 1 ft rake aft for upwind work and then be able to flop the mast 18" forward for downwind work. I'm considering dyneema because I want to lead the end of the forestay back to the cockpit and use the sheet winches for adjustment. I would mount winches in the cabin top ( I have several extras) but for simplicity and a clearer deck I would like to use the existing winches. I have an adjustable backstay. On Tue, May 11, 2021, 11:40 AM < montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com> wrote: > Send montgomery_boats mailing list submissions to > montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via email, send a message with subject or > body 'help' to > montgomery_boats-request(a)mailman.xmission.com > > You can reach the person managing the list at > montgomery_boats-owner(a)mailman.xmission.com > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of montgomery_boats digest..." > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Re rig (Dave Scobie) > 2. Re: Electric propulsion (Dave Scobie) > 3. Re: Electric propulsion (Gary Froeschner) > 4. Re: Re rig (John Schinnerer) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 11:01:23 -0700 > From: Dave Scobie <scoobscobie(a)gmail.com> > Subject: M_Boats: Re: Re rig > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: > <CAGjBOA4SxguWzWj-+QszwMudb2f_LzuhfUDdpST=- > 4WJiPh+Rw(a)mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > JonB: > > What parts of the rig are you wanting to replace? Running? Standing? > > > :: Dave Scobie > :: M6'8" #650 > :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com > :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com > :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new > site! > > > On Tue, May 11, 2021, 10:25 AM Jon Barber <brbrbarber(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > Has anyone rerigged their 17 with dyneema? I am considering rerigging my > > boat and would be interested in any tutorials or ideas. > > Thanks, > > Jon Barber > > Monty17 > > Ol'44 > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 11:05:28 -0700 > From: Dave Scobie <scoobscobie(a)gmail.com> > Subject: M_Boats: Re: Electric propulsion > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: > <CAGjBOA6moyWK-KzgUzt5svXyFj= > 8vnLrBSenxTMhvAxH0cvguA(a)mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" > > JonB? > > Smelling had in the cabin? Where are you keeping the motor? In the cabin? > The gas can? > > Range and cost are the weaknesses of electric. You get what you pay for. > For effective charging a 50+watt panel would be required and then multiple > days sun for recharging (yes, depends on how long you motor). > > > :: Dave Scobie > :: M6'8" #650 > :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com > :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com > :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com <<-- new > site! > > > On Tue, May 11, 2021, 10:31 AM Jon Barber <brbrbarber(a)gmail.com> wrote: > > > Yet another trip to the mooring where I am smelling gasoline. I love the > 2 > > hp Honda, but i realize in many situations I really only need a small > push > > here and there. My thought was to buy a trolling motor, extra battery > and a > > solar panel. There us plenty of sun where I live. The Honda leaks just > > enough to perfume my cabin with gas fumes. I will be making the necessary > > repairs; fuel lines and cap, but can anyone offer their wisdom re > electric > > options? Torqueedo is out of the question as to the price. > > Thanks > > Jon Barber > > Monty17 > > Ol'44 > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 13:23:54 -0500 > From: Gary Froeschner <msogggf(a)gmail.com> > Subject: M_Boats: Re: Electric propulsion > To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Message-ID: <609acbba.1c69fb81.1adf9.5887(a)mx.google.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I set up my M17 with a Minn Kota -TRAxx15 55 – 42”. This delivers 55 lbs > of thrust. After a lot of research, I concluded that 55#s was enough. > Hope I’m right. I have the cutout transom for an outboard. I mount it > there. I have 2 lead acid marine deep cycle batteries that have about 90 > amp hrs each. I do not have a solar panel yet, but want to add that. I > put the batteries in battery boxes under the V berth and ran a fused, heavy > wire back to a trolling motor outlet that I mounted high on the cockpit > wall above the seats. Plug it in and go. So far, only one season in lakes > in MO, it has worked just fine. However, I have not been in anything but > mild winds, nothing over 11 or 12 knots. And, I really don’t have sever > current issues on inland lakes. It is quiet, it don’t smell and I like it > so far. I did have to epoxy pieces of rubber to the jaws of the trolling > motor to keep it from rotating on the transom wooden pads at the motor > mount. I’m hoping they will stay on. I also realized fairly quickly that > I really don’t need to steer with the trolling motor. I just let it run > straight and use my tiller to steer. Seems to work. > > Sent from Mail for Windows 10 > > From: Jon Barber > Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2021 12:31 PM > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Subject: M_Boats: Electric propulsion > > Yet another trip to the mooring where I am smelling gasoline. I love the 2 > hp Honda, but i realize in many situations I really only need a small push > here and there. My thought was to buy a trolling motor, extra battery and a > solar panel. There us plenty of sun where I live. The Honda leaks just > enough to perfume my cabin with gas fumes. I will be making the necessary > repairs; fuel lines and cap, but can anyone offer their wisdom re electric > options? Torqueedo is out of the question as to the price. > Thanks > Jon Barber > Monty17 > Ol'44 > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 11 May 2021 11:40:14 -0700 > From: John Schinnerer <john(a)eco-living.net> > Subject: M_Boats: Re: Re rig > To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > Message-ID: <0396de39-477b-6638-0525-82bbfcbc8d9c(a)eco-living.net> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed > > I know a guy who re-rigged his Storfidra 25 > (https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/storfidra-25 - Swedish built cruising > boat - he may have the only one on the USA west coast?) with soft > shrouds - except for the double forestay, which is still wire rope. > > Not a trailer sailor boat, obviously, but if you think it might be > helpful, I could probably put you in touch with him. > > I thought about it when I was getting new stays & shrouds for my M17. I > decided to not take on the learning curve at that time...my rigging got > much more streamlined anyhow, because what it came with was all > nicopress and thimbles everywhere. So many places to twist or snag or > jam up! Now it's much sleeker and less finicky to raise the mast. > > cheers, > john > > On 5/11/21 10:24 AM, Jon Barber wrote: > > Has anyone rerigged their 17 with dyneema? I am considering rerigging my > > boat and would be interested in any tutorials or ideas. > > Thanks, > > Jon Barber > > Monty17 > > Ol'44 > > > > -- > John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design > -------------------------------------------- > - Eco-Living - > Whole Systems Design Services > People - Place - Learning - Integration > john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 > http://eco-living.net > http://sociocracyconsulting.com > > ------------------------------ > > Subject: Digest Footer > > _______________________________________________ > montgomery_boats mailing list -- montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com > To unsubscribe send an email to > montgomery_boats-leave(a)mailman.xmission.com > %(web_page_url)slistinfo%(cgiext)s/%(_internal_name)s > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > > > ------------------------------ > > End of montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 219, Issue 5 > ************************************************ >

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