April 2019 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Bow pulpit. My boat did not come with a bow pulpit. Is there any resource for getting one made or used.
by Doug 14 Aug '22

14 Aug '22

New member here from Bend, OR. just bought a Montgomery 15. ⁣Sent from BlueMail

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Speaking of nifty setups for single-handing ease...
by John Schinnerer 30 Apr '19

30 Apr '19

...I got one of these last season and put it on my M17 and it is great. Beats the heck out of loose bungee cords, bungee balls, or sail ties. Not just for single handing, even if you have crew it is easier to secure the main quickly and tidily. https://www.duckworks.com/product-p/bb-sawsts.htm cheers, John -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john(a)eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com

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Topping lift fitting
by Lawrence Winiarski 29 Apr '19

29 Apr '19

I've been adjusting my topping lift with a tautline hitch. Any ideas of a little fitting or arrangement that might make it easier to adjust? (and not twist the boom) Mostly I just want to get the boom lifted higher occasionally when rowing or putting up a boom tarp. Curious what others might have figured out. I've seen big boats with a block on the line.

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Update to my project: Remove rusty steel, replace with lead shot, with questions
by James Hymes 29 Apr '19

29 Apr '19

I have a 1975 M17, #69. I attempted email Bob Eeg using the subcriber list, it came back no such address.... If someone can provide his or Jerrry's email address so I can email them directly with questions it would be helpful... I'm in the middle of a project of replacing the rusty steel punchings and replacing with lead shot. I will try to post my project (with dollar and time costs) in the How to and Specs section of the website with pictures so ya'll can decide if it's a project you want to do.. I've cut out 4 holes on the port side of the keel, 3 on the starboard side, and have removed the approximately 224 or more pounds of steel puchings. (that plus the 175 pound cast iron CB total only 400 pounds, I know Jerry has posted messages or whatnot saying those old boats should have 500 pounds or so total ballast. My boat sailed very well with decent wind, pointed great, and so I will use the same amount of lead in pounds as what I removed to keep the characteristics as it was, and not worry about getting the ballast to the 500 pounds....Now that all the rusty steel has been removed, the centerboard drops again!! My question concerns the other picture which shows the forward side of the keel, with the steel punchings encased in epoxy, located under the compression post. I did a previous project where I injected epoxy into the keel after drilling a lot of 1/4" holes in order to fill any air pockets with the epoxy with the hope of preventing water from getting into the punchings. (Did have water in the keel when bought) So I can't say for sure if that steel under the compression post was loose prior to my epoxy project or if Jerry put epoxy in that area specifically to create a solid foundation under the compression post so that the post would have support -- or,as a friend believes, the hull itself above the keel is enough support for the load the compression post is under when the boat is under sail, and does not need additional foundation underneath the hull in the keel. Hopefully this makes sense to you. Also, (change in plans) I intend to repair the outer wall of the hull by sanding the existing outer wall building up a new fiberglass wall outside of the existing wall, rather than sanding, fiberglassing each individual cutout. I will build a thin layer in the cutout sections first so that I can fiberglass over and keep the void in the keel needed for the lead shot to pour into. To me this will be easier. It will make the keel wider I know, but intend on keeping a good airfoil shape. Of course it will be done vertically (don't intend on setting the boat on it's side so that the keel is horizontal (unless someone recomends that would be much easier). After the outer wall is done, I have lead shot which I will pour from holes in the cabin above into the keel. Thanks for any input, Jim Hymes

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Gelcoat; great info!
by Gerry Lempicki 26 Apr '19

26 Apr '19

Thanks for the replies! I'm going to try to attach a couple photos. If they come through, one is the underside of the lapstrakes, a few areas with lots of little holes (bubbles when applied?) And a flat area with similar sized spots. Fill the holes with my epoxy fairing? Then prime over it all? -Gerry

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Project: Replace rusty steel in keel with lead!
by James Hymes 25 Apr '19

25 Apr '19

My current project to remove rusty steel punchings and then to replace with lead shot NOTE: I can testify as to the weight of the steel I removed from the keel in my current project weighs a total of 224 pounds, give or take 20 or so pounds. That plus the 175 pound centerboard totals 400 to 425 pounds of ballast total on my 1975 #69 (not Coyote- may name her “Ole yeller” since mine is got the same number as Coyote) M17. When the centerboard would drop, my boat sailed quite exceptionally, well balanced, pointed very well….Jerry has posted that when he switched from steel to lead he increased the total ballast weight to 600 pounds from 500 or 550 pounds. Anyone doing this project, I recommend weighing how much you remove and replace with same amount of lead unless wanting to change characteristics. My prior project: to cure problem of rusting steel slugs on account of the CB would not drop (from the outset of my ownership of hull 69, I had to jump up and down inside the cabin to get the CB to drop; additionally I drilled an exploratory hole at the fore bottom of the keel from which water did pour out of): Some years ago, I drilled ¼” holes throughout the outer walls of the keel. I then injected ?epoxy into one hole at a time, so that the epoxy would fill up air pockets inside the keel to prevent water from rusting the steel slugs. I injected the epoxy into a hole until epoxy oozed out an adjacent hole, then plugged the hole injected into with a wooden dowel. I injected from the bottom of the keel upwards. Near the top of the keel I found void, as in no steel slugs, and also a green Styrofoam for floatation purposes apparently. I also at this time removed the CB and had it sandblasted, I then refaired it and painted it with bottom paint, or whatrever was appropriate. The CB did drop as intended after this for several times. But then it quit dropping again. My current project to remove rusty steel slugs (phase 1) or steel punchings (224 pounds of centers of washers approx. 1/8th “ diameter) and then to replace with lead shot (available in 25 lb bags at cabella’s $43.50 per bag and elsewhere: I started with boat on trailer, used a cutout tool to cut out sections of the outer keel wall…. Found the steel slugs to be very rusty and also found the epoxy that I injected previously to have formed an extremely difficult mass to remove. I began with a hammer and chisel to remove rusty steel. This resulted in trauma to elbow resulted in severe case of tennis elbow with some of the rusty steel removed. I found a boatyard whereby I paid for 3 weeks for them to put my boat on stands (would have preferred them to raise it higher than they did for my comfort). I then bought a cheap air hammer, progressed up to a higher quality air hammer and finally got an Ingersoll Rand 122 MAX for $169, along with finding a general laborer to use the air hammer. This air hammer was very capable of removing the steel/epoxy supertough mess. A word of warning: There is a mass of the steel slugs/epoxy at the front of the keel , fore of the centerboard that goes up to the bottom of the hull, this is located directly underneath the compression post – I suggest leave this section as is – I believe it is the foundation for the compression post. Anyways, got the steel removed and lo and behold: the centerboard drops easily!!! :) Phase 2: To re-fiberglass the cutout areas of the keel: I did cutout 4 sections of the outer keel wall on the port side, and 3 sections on the starboard side in order to access the steel punchings. The fiberglass man is to do the repair AND leave the gap between the outer wall and centerboard trunk wall to allow for me to be able to (phase 3)pour the lead shot from above (I will drill holes through the sole above the areas of keel to pour the lead shot). Additionally, he did notice there is lamination damage at the bottom of the centerboard slot of the keel that needs repair. Phase 3: I drilled a 3” diameter hole in cabin just aft of the compression post where I will pour lead into the front of the keel. Since I did remove the steel punching mass that was underneath the compression post, I need to be able to pour the lead there and then be able to pour epoxy to make that area hard and compress it so that it will support the compression post above. I will put in an inspection port at that hole to monitor inside the keel for compression post support, water, etc. I will also drill small holes at three locations on each side of the centerboard to allow me to pour the lead shot down between the centerboard and outer wall of the keel, as well as one above the rear of the keel Phase 4: I did remove some of that green Styrofoam flotation, and so may replace it and place the new Styrofoam inside plywood boxes and fiberglass them to the centerline of the boat at the hull. If this project is a success (really my only concern at this point is how well he can repair the cutouts in the keel walls), it might be worthy of being posted in the projects section of the site. Pictures: 224 lbs of rusty steel 4 sections of keel cutout, centerboard dropped Steel prior to hammering out Keel after steel removed Jim Hymes

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Re: M_Boats: looking for input on gelcoat application on M-17
by Robbin Roddewig 25 Apr '19

25 Apr '19

I am sure your will get many similar thoughts but I have stripped bottom paint on my M-23 and done gelcoat repair on large section of my M-17 and under the water line you want to use barrier coat. Either Interlux or Petit would be fine but there is no reason to go to all the effort of gel coat if you are going to paint over it, as you will below the water line.All the best! Robbin -----Original Message----- From: Gerry Lempicki via montgomery_boats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> To: For and About Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thu, Apr 25, 2019 9:12 am Subject: M_Boats: looking for input on gelcoat application on M-17 To add gelcoat or not? Here's the deal; we stripped all the paint below the water line since we didn't know what it was, and it needed refreshing. I also removed a through hull, and redid a couple old through hull patches I found because I didn't like the looks of them. As we removed paint we found many areas (particularly under the lapstrake edges) where the gelcoat had been previously been sanded through. And of course I have the new repairs I did. Should all this have gelcoat reapplied over the fiberglass? I will be using Interlux 2000e primer, and maybe Bottomkote NT over it (not sure on that yet). The boat will be moored in fresh water for 5-6 months. Any thoughts on what should be done for proper protection/longevity of hull?

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looking for input on gelcoat application on M-17
by Gerry Lempicki 25 Apr '19

25 Apr '19

To add gelcoat or not? Here's the deal; we stripped all the paint below the water line since we didn't know what it was, and it needed refreshing. I also removed a through hull, and redid a couple old through hull patches I found because I didn't like the looks of them. As we removed paint we found many areas (particularly under the lapstrake edges) where the gelcoat had been previously been sanded through. And of course I have the new repairs I did. Should all this have gelcoat reapplied over the fiberglass? I will be using Interlux 2000e primer, and maybe Bottomkote NT over it (not sure on that yet). The boat will be moored in fresh water for 5-6 months. Any thoughts on what should be done for proper protection/longevity of hull?

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Re: M_Boats: M15 rusting ballast from Sam <shunter@gmail.com>
by Keith 24 Apr '19

24 Apr '19

Hi Alex, I have an M15 (built 1984, #272) which gets some water in the bilge. The source was a mystery for a long time, but after some close-quarters cell-phone camera work, I found that there were some openings in the join where the center board rope runs and/or cockpit drain exits. I'm pretty sure now that when water is coming back up through the drain in the cockpit, a tiny amount is also entering the bilge. The rate at which it collects seems to vary, I think depending on sailing conditions. Now that I know about it, I try to check on and remove the water after sailing trips, but I figure that the boat has survived for ~35 years with this situation, it will probably last a few more. The worst I've ever seen it was after a little over a week and quite a few miles in the Gulf Islands. I pulled maybe 3 liters of water out after that trip. Maybe this year I'll try to stuff some plumber's putty in the gaps, but the join is quite irregular and I'm not sure anything will stick or form a decent seal. Here is a photo showing the top of the bilge and the join: image.png And another with the camera a bit lower and closer showing the gap in the join between the cabin and the keel/bilge (top left/port corner). You can see that things got a little hairy with the fiberglass.... image.png Finally, the the bilge where you can see that some of the exposed bits of ballast have rusted a bit: image.png All is not doom and gloom however, I just re-upholstered the cabin cushions and really like how they turned out! image.png Sam On Tue, Apr 16, 2019 at 2:47 PM Paul Baker <avalonjazz(a)gmail.com <mailto:avalonjazz@gmail.com>> wrote: Interesting Montgomery 15 story totally unrelated to this pivot pin and ballast conversation: At one point in my life a few years ago, I moved to a house where I no longer could keep my 15 on her trailer in the driveway. There was no space. A man I had done some work for had a factory with a huge parking lot in the back, with a gate and security. I called and talked to him, and he kindly let me temporarily store my boat in his lot. I covered her with a plastic tarp in a way that would allow rainwater to roll off. After it was there for about 6 months, and an unusually heavy rainy season, I had an uneasy feeling about my boat, and made a trip to check up on her. The boat had been moved by the man's employees, and my tarp setup was moved in order to roll the trailer to a different spot. It was never put back in place. During all the rain, the tarp laying on the aft end of the boat had formed a waterproof membrane and the cockpit was filled all the way up to about a half inch of spilling through the companionway door. When i saw this, I panicked. I knew that i couldn't pull the plastic up. I knew the only way to empty the cockpit was to slice the plastic and let the water drain into the self bailing cockpit. I couldn't imagine the weight of that water. I climbed up onto the boat to find a place to make a cut. I was so upset, that it hadnt occured to me that the trailer tongue which was up on a block made this a very unstable situation. When I stepped onto the boat, my added weight tipped the scale. The water started to rush aft, and the boat crashed aft end into the parking lot, with an unbelievably powerful force. The boat was bow up at a huge angle, which frightened the heck out of me to see. I had fallen down into the water as well. I got up, got out of the boat and somehow got her back down again. I think I may have just moved forward, I'm not sure anymore because I was so upset. I had just assumed that my prized boat that I took such good care of was going to be smashed, a total loss. I felt devastated. I was on the ground, and walked aft to see the trajedy. Here's the happy ending: Not only was she in one piece, there was not the slightest crack, chip in the gelcoat. Nothing. I kept running my hand on the point of impact. Not the slightest damage could I detect. It landed right on the tip of the aft part of the keel, so I assumed it would be less stout than other parts of the hull. I was wrong. I realized at that moment how strong this boat actually is.The other huge gift from above: not one drop of water ever went below, which would have been a disaster. Now I keep her in the driveway of my current home, under a covered frame, so I don't have to worry again. *Miracles DO happen.* On Tue, Apr 16, 2019, 1:56 PM Alex Conley <conley.alex(a)gmail.com <mailto:conley.alex@gmail.com>> wrote: > Thanks Jerry- knowing the hump is separate from the keel cavity eliminates > all my worries. Other than sealing a few spider web cracks in the gelcoat > around the pivot pin, I think I'm good to go sailing! > > And Burton, unless I see new water, I'm going to assume the water was from > overzealous spraying as the previous owners grand kids prepared the boat > for sale. Why worry now when you can worry later? Overall amazed at what > good condition this boat is in for 32 years old. > > Now on to more important things, like buying a hiking stick so I can slide > around to keep the boat trimmed to 55% aft- Jerry, your mini-lessons in > naval architecture and how these boats were constructed is invaluable! > > Alex > > On Tue, Apr 16, 2019 at 10:48 AM <jerry(a)jerrymontgomery.org <mailto:jerry@jerrymontgomery.org>> wrote: > > > The "lump" under the fwd berth is trim ballast and not part of the keel > > ballast, and is put in place and glassed over AFTER the keel ballast is > > installed and glassed over, and is in front of the keel ballast anyway. > > it's well forward because it's for the sake of trim to compensate for > > weight > > in the cockpit. > > > > A problem with small cruisers is that the cockpit is in the back of the > > boat, and the more weight in the cockpit the more the boat trims aft, > > which > > slows it down for a couple of obvious reasons. Sailing dinghies don't > > have > > this problem because the skipper and crew sit in the center of the boat, > > wherever they need to be to trim the boat for best performance. Early in > > my > > boatbuilding experience, I was fortunate to be hired to help Lyle Hess > > make > > the plugs for the original Balboa 20, which he had designed and was his > > first fiberglass boat. It was a learning experience for both of us; I > > learned a tremendous amount about boat building and design, he learned to > > be > > patient with a million stupid questions. We strip planked the hull, and > > as > > it was taking shape I questioned why the after sections were so full. (hi > > volume). his answer was that it needed the buoyancy because of weight in > > the cockpit, to keep the boat from burying the transom. This made sense > > but > > I always questioned it a bit. Later, in my studies, I learned that the > > ideal fore-and-aft center of buoyancy (LCB), in a displacement hull, in > > terms of performance was 54 to 55% aft, considering only the underbody of > > the hull. Any deviation of this slows the boat down. When Lyle was > > designing the M-17 for me I talked him into cleaning up the aft sections > a > > bit and planned to trim the boat as needed using trim ballast. Both the > > Montgomery 15 and 17 have trim ballast, also the Sages. It worked and is > > one of the reasons that the M-17 is faster than a Balboa 20. I eased the > > run aft on the Sages even more, and I'm confident that this is one of the > > reasons that the Sages are faster. The M-15 and the Sages are all dead > on > > 55%. This factor, along with the prismatic coefficient, are two major > > "invisible" reasons for differences in performance. > > > > I wouldn't worry about rust in the trim ballast; it's not going to spread > > into the keel ballast. As Dave says, go sailing. > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Burton Lowry > > Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2019 9:43 AM > > To: Lawrence Winiarski ; For and about Montgomery Sailboats > > Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 rusting ballast > > > > Hi Alex, > > > > One comforting thought is that the older Monty boats are fantastic, and > > are > > inexpensive compared to a new Sage due to the fact that certain things on > > them are going to need attention. Thankfully, most of these can be fixed > > with sweat equity and a little money. The good news is that almost none > of > > these items are safety hazard issues, and don't need immediate attention > > especially if we don't need to have a creampuff for a boat. > > > > If you get really frustrated trying to find the source of this water > > intrusion, welcome to the club! With only a Monty 12, I have no > knowledge > > of the specifics of your boat. However, we have chased leaks for many > > years > > on many pocket cruisers. > > > > The obvious suspects are where holes are drilled in the deck and the > > bedding > > has failed, hatch boards, and vents. > > > > However, the insidious ones for us have usually been the hull to deck > > joint. > > The outside seal would have failed, allowing water to sit against the > > joint > > under the rub rail, and the inside looked perfectly sealed, as it was > > resin > > and tape, but not gel coated. The water could then seep through all > along > > the joint in very small amounts, but would eventually collect in the > bilge. > > > > If you are in an area where there is a significant freeze/thaw cycle it > > can > > be important to take care of these sorts of leaks so that water expansion > > does not do serious damage to the boat. Or, make sure your boat is good > > and > > dry and then get it covered well before the freeze. > > > > Burt > > > > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > On Apr 16, 2019, at 12:08 AM, Lawrence Winiarski via montgomery_boats > > > <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com <mailto:montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>> wrote: > > > > > > H'mm You know, maybe we've been looking at this all wrong. Maybe > the > > > water that causes the rust comes from the inside > > > through other means (condensation etc..) and soaks through the > > polyester > > > resin? > > > > > > In that case, perhaps a coating on the inside (epoxy or paint could be > a > > > good thing) > > > Or a good winter cover.... > > > > > > On Monday, April 15, 2019, 6:48:22 PM PDT, Alex Conley > > > <conley.alex(a)gmail.com <mailto:conley.alex@gmail.com>> wrote: > > > > > > I ike that answer! And knowing the ballast is in resin helps me feel > > > comfortable with the sail n monitor approach (I’d imagined a sloshing > > mess > > > of rust soup...). > > > > > > Looking again, I can see a bathtub ring where water sat at one point > > ahead > > > of the bulge. What would be the likely paths for water to even get in > > > there > > > under the v birth (other than someone hosing off the interior)? Hull > deck > > > joint looks solid, and it looks like the bulkhead around the bulge > > > separates it from the rest of the bilge... > > > > > > Thanks Dave, for all the shared knowledge, > > > > > > Alex > > > > > > > > > > > >> On Mon, Apr 15, 2019 at 6:31 AM Dave Scobie <scoobscobie(a)gmail.com <mailto:scoobscobie@gmail.com>> > > >> wrote: > > >> > > >> Alex: > > >> > > >> Simple answer is, as the board goes up and down with no problems, GO > > >> SAILING. > > >> > > >> Monitor the situation and if things change then look for options. > > >> > > >> More details - > > >> > > >> You wrote, 'ballast getting lighter'. It is not unless you start > > >> jackhammering it out ;-) > > >> > > >> Look along the joint where the trunk joins the bottom of the keel for > > any > > >> cracks. If any are present this is a possible place where water can > > >> enter. Cleaning and prepping for an epoxy repair of the cracks (again > > if > > >> any) is an option. Share pictures of what you find. The bottom of > the > > >> keel photo you shared shows no immediate concerns. > > >> > > >> There are some pictures here about repairing the > > >> trunk-bottom-of-keel-joint > > >> in this MSOG post - > > >> > > >> http://www.msog.org/how-to/centerboard/cbrepair_johnson.cfm > > >> > > >> ONLY look at the bottom of the keel photos as the in-cabin things, in > my > > >> opinion, don't relate to your situation. > > >> > > >> So when you touching the 'steel hump' you get oil/rust on your hand? > > >> > > >> #4 question - the ballast was poured in a couple of layers to limit > heat > > >> build up as the resin kicked. The hump was then piled up and covered > > >> with > > >> the glass as you see. The ballast was suppose to be saturated with > > >> resin. > > >> Injection of anything will only make problems. At this moment, as > > >> written > > >> above, leave it alone. > > >> > > >> #5 - drill NO holes at this time! > > >> > > >> #6 - look for damage to the keel and any issues around the rotation > pin. > > >> Any weeping rust? (Based on what you wrote there are none.). See > notes > > >> about e looking for cracking along the keel and trunk joint. > > >> > > >> > > >> Did the prior owner talk about the rust? Can you ask him/her about > it? > > >> Is > > >> this new or has the situation been stable for years and years? > > >> > > >> > > >> :: Dave Scobie > > >> :: M6'8" #650 > > >> :: SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com <http://sv-swallow.com> > > >> :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com <http://m17-375.com> > > >> :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred/ <http://www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred/> > > >> > > >> > > >>> On Sun, Apr 14, 2019, 10:31 PM Alex Conley <conley.alex(a)gmail.com <mailto:conley.alex@gmail.com>> > > >>> wrote: > > >>> > > >>> I finally opened up the fore peak on my new to me M15 and pulled out > > the > > >>> flotation to look at the hump over the ballast, and found it to be > rust > > >>> stained and oozing some mix of rust, oil and water There is some > rough > > >>> glass roving over the hump, with some rusting ballast pellets tangled > > in > > >> it > > >>> (see photo 1012). The centerboard is not binding, and there are no > > other > > >>> signs of leaks/rust stains etc- the boat is otherwise in amazing > shape. > > >> It > > >>> does look like someone may have reworked the hull/trunk join in the > > >>> past(photo 0999 attached) and pivot pin is not original . > > >>> > > >>> My questions for all of you: > > >>> 1. Given that the board is not binding, how much should I worry about > > >> this? > > >>> Is the rust causing other damage (other than the ballast getting > > lighter > > >>> :)) > > >>> 2. Are there steps that should be done to stabilize the situation? > What > > >> are > > >>> the options? > > >>> 3. Is it critical that it be dealt with before I put her in the water > > (I > > >>> think its been a few years since her last launch)? > > >>> 4. Is the hump and the keel all one big connected space? Are there > > >>> enough > > >>> voids in the fill to inject an oil or other rust preventative? Are > the > > >>> pellets just loose, or in some kind of matrix (now I'm imagining > > cutting > > >>> into the hump and using a magnet on a rod to remove pellets...) > > >>> 5. If one were to drill a drain hole, what is the best location? > > >>> 6. Any guides out there for resealing the hull/centerboard trunk join > > >>> and > > >>> the interior of the trunk? Other areas to look at re water entry to > the > > >>> ballast? > > >>> > > >>> I've heard people mentioning going whole hog and removing the steel > and > > >>> replacing it with lead. Can anyone point me to more info on what is > > >>> involved in doing that for an m15? I tried searching the photo site > but > > >>> came up cold.. > > >>> > > >>> Many thanks for all your thoughts- > > >>> > > >>> Alex Conley > > >>> > > >> > > > > > > >

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Furler again
by Henry Rodriguez 23 Apr '19

23 Apr '19

I finally ordered a new jib furler for my M17 Monita. I ordered the Schaefer Snapfurl CF 500 from Judy at Hydesailsdirect.com. The price on the website is $768, which is very close to Defender’s. For comparison, the CDI FF2 is $617 at Sailrite.com. I emailed Judy with some questions and she said her price was actually much cheaper at $593 but she was not allowed to advertise the lower price. I asked her if this was a one-off or if the $175 discount was available to all sailors. She said anyone can order it at this price from her but you have to email or call her first. If you just order from the site you will be charged the full $768. There is a $54 shipping charge, and it comes directly from Schaefer. My final cost, including shipping was $647. I am having a new tanbark 150 with foam luff built. I will convert either the 110 or 135 for roller furling. Suggestions? I have also added a removable Solent stay for use with the storm jib. I will be offering the “old” tanbark 150 and 135 (or 110, depending on which I decide to keep) for sale on the msog site. The sails are 4 years old but have only been used for parts of two seasons. Monita did not hit the water last year. It was Chiquita’s turn for the lake mooring. Henry -- Sent from Gmail Mobile on Windows 10 phone

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