January 2009 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 71, Issue 14
by David C. Patterson 17 Jan '09

17 Jan '09

Does anyone on the list have used M17 sails they would like to sell? I have only the original sails for my used 1985 and would love better sails. By the way I have a reefable jib that I dote on. I don't expect another would show up used, but I can hope. Please consider letting me know if you have some sails you are unlikely to use, and might wish to sell. To those of you rehabilitating a boat, I finally got all the Grateful Dead stickers off. Thanks all. David Patterson Cloud Girl 1985 M17 #393 ********************************************

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M15 centerboard
by Nick Cherau 16 Jan '09

16 Jan '09

Chris, I believe that all the M15's were built with a light, 55 lb., centerboard made of fiberglass. That is why no winch is needed to haul the pennant up and also why the relatively light weight of the board can be supported solely by a knot in the pennant, unlike the heavier cast iron boards used in the earlier 73 to 89 M17's. 89's to the present use a light fiberglass board similar to the M15's. As I say I think this is correct, if not I'm sure there are many on this forum, especially the builders, Jerry and now Bob, who will correct me. _________________________________________________________________________________________________ Fair tide and a steady breeze, Nick

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Re: M_Boats: Chris Smith, Question about CB
by Michael Ray Wisely 16 Jan '09

16 Jan '09

Hi Chris...Just to address one of your questions...I pulled the center board on my M17..(iron board #200lbs give or take) I did it by myself with a hand truck and some wood blocks. It was pretty easy. If you have a friend to help...it will be easy My suggestion: (1) Take out the "stop pin" first... (2) Lower the board all the way out...very slowly. (3) Block and brace the CB ... Now you can drive out the swivel pin and do what you want to the CB. (Note: I seem to remember that the pins must have been removed and re-installed from the starboard side of the keel. I.e drive the pin out from the port side toward the starboard side. Put the pin back in from the starboard side.) Word of advice. If you blast it and epoxy paint it. Use only ONE COAT of epoxy or a couple of very thin coats and one coat of bottom paint. Too much paint and your C/B is not likely to fit back in the slot. I did the entire process and had to take the board back down to bare steel as I could not get it back in the slot. The tolerance is tighter than you think. I am still searching for another answer in the form of a different board to take the place of the Iron beast. Hope this helps... Michael Ray

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tipping and floatation
by Chris Smith 15 Jan '09

15 Jan '09

I've got a couple questions for y'all: 1) My M15 is fantastically maneuverable, but seems awfully tippy. If I'm not on the sheets a gust can push me over or at least give a good scare to passengers. I kinda figure that it's because I've got too much mast, as I put all the parts together from scratch (got the hull only to begin with - for $25!) but I'd like to know if anyone else experiences this. I've made every mistake once, including a knockdown with passengers which could have been scary, but turned out to be kinda fun (this could be hindsight...) 2) I've got a lot of Styrofoam underneath the cockpit and in the bow locker under the cushion. I noticed that another M15 has lots of it in the same place (not under the cockpit, though) - I believe it was SCRED. I figured it was from when they must have floated it up from the bottom of some TX harbor, but perhaps not? I haven't removed it because I haven't needed the space, but it would be handy to have it. Is my M15 likely to sink!? 3) Finally, anyone have advice on pulling out the centerboard? Is it cast iron or are there differences between manufacture dates? I believe mine is either an '81 or '82. I'd like to pull it out, examine it and see if I should clean it up or do any other work on it... Thanks, Chris M15 Persephone

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Opening mast sailtrack?
by Doug Kelch 15 Jan '09

15 Jan '09

I need to open the sail track on my mast. It need to be wide enough to accept the goose neck fitting and no opening other than the sail track is there right now. Any suggestions on how to do this? Brute force - heavy hammer and a splitting wedge? Thanks Doug Kelch

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Re: M_Boats: Opening mast sailtrack
by John R. Butler 15 Jan '09

15 Jan '09

Doug Kelch: I did it on both of my M15, no problem at all. I don't feel it is very highly tempered. I just used a wooden wedge to open it enough to get a couple vice grips at the opening, then a piece of oak between the jaws and the outside of the track to keep from marring mast and keep the bending smooth. It is a lot easier than you would think. Just go slowly! John R. Butler theoldcat(a)cox.net First M15 was "Joy", '83 #264 Now sail "Rejoyce!", '86 #361

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Opening mast sailtrack?
by Rick Langer 15 Jan '09

15 Jan '09

Doug, A few years ago I opened a new access slot and closed the original one. The aluminum is quite soft and flexible. To open the slot take a large screwdriver, twisting it and open the slot slowly by moving the screwdriver along the area you want to open. To close the slot tap lightly with a hammer, closing it a little at a time. It's really not difficult and I don't think the aluminum is tempered. Rick M15 #337 Bluebird Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2009 11:26:37 -0800 (PST) From: Doug Kelch <doug_kelch(a)yahoo.com> Subject: M_Boats: Opening mast sailtrack? To: Montgomery <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Message-ID: <762659.32777.qm(a)web58701.mail.re1.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 I need to open the sail track on my mast.? It need to be wide enough to accept the goose neck fitting and no opening other than the sail track is there right now. Any suggestions on how to do this? Brute force - heavy hammer and a splitting wedge? Thanks Doug Kelch

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Butyl tape as bedding compound
by Gordon Gilbert 15 Jan '09

15 Jan '09

I'm removing most of the deck hardware on my M-17, epoxy-lining the attachment holes and rebedding everything this winter. The fiberglass guy at the place I store my boat suggested that I use butyl tape as a bedding compound instead of polysulfide caulk. He said it's easier to work with and that he hasn't experienced a leak with it yet. Considering how messy polysulfide caulk can be, I'm tempted to try butyl tape -- but most importantly I want a good, long-lasting seal. Does anyone out there have experience with the stuff? Gordon M-17 #377 "Sapphire" Milwaukee

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Fwd: Polar sailboat plan, thought each of you would find this interesting for various reasons.
by Gary M Hyde 14 Jan '09

14 Jan '09

Here is a challenge for you sailing folk, forwarded from an Alaska friend of mine. --Gary Hyde 2005 M17 sailboat #637 'Hydeaway 2' Begin forwarded message: > From: Josh Klauder <ravnsong(a)mtaonline.net> > Date: January 2, 2009 3:37:41 AM PST > To: Chris Brett <cbrett(a)clinic.net>, Alex Brett <ducttapewaffles(a)gmail.com > >, Kaija Klauder <dogsummer08(a)gmail.com>, Michael Wald <info(a)arcticwild.com > >, Gary M Hyde <gmhyde1(a)mac.com> > Subject: Polar sailboat plan, thought each of you would find this > interesting for various reasons. > > ..just interesting, not that I'm suggesting involvement! > > http://anchorage.craigslist.org/bfs/977075818.html

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8' Trinka with sail kit & trailer
by Nick Cherau 14 Jan '09

14 Jan '09

Hello fellow sailors, In case anyone is in need of a dinghy, there's an 8 foot Trinka on eBay right now - Item number: 140294481048 Dinghy has the works, sail kit, nice looking set of oars with leathers, and a Performance trailer. Seller does have a reserve on it but intimates that it might be half of new or about $1,500. A good tender for the select few lucky enough to helm an M23. _________________________________________________________________________________________________ Fair tide and a steady breeze, Nick

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