June 2003 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: Simple ladder
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 04 Jun '03

04 Jun '03

I once had an "L" shaped step mounted on a 22' sailboat (not a Montgomery) rudder and one on the transom. Very easy to boost yourself up on and had zero drag. They were approx 3"x 6" and made of bronze. WC used to make them and I've seen used ones on ebay. 1/4" x 2024 aluminum would probably work for the home built type. Bill P.

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Re: M_Boats: Simple ladder
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 03 Jun '03

03 Jun '03

Stan, A cutout might be ok but it doesn't give much area for footing, it might hurt your foot. How thick is the rudder? Try a scrap metal place for the 2024...that's how I buy. The WC brand steps may still be available somewhere. I know there was one on ebay not to long ago but I didn't watch for price. Bill

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M_Boats: Aluminum and Nickel-Plated Steel: Galvanic Compatibility (link)
by Honshells 03 Jun '03

03 Jun '03

Very cool telecommute, Tod!!! Thanks for the answer. I mistakenly bought nickel-plated steel rather than stainless bolts for my rudder's cheekplates, which are made of aluminum. So I will replace the nickel-plated with stainless. Thanks! --Craig, chonshell(a)ia4u.net ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills(a)bright.net> To: "'Honshells'" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 9:17 PM Subject: Aluminum and Nickel-Plated Steel: Galvanic Compatibility (link) Hi, Craig As I understand it, stainless would be closer to aluminum than nickel plated. Nickel plated is more "stable" than stainless. Tod (replying from aboard BuscaBrisas at Point Lookout Marina, MD) :-)

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M_Boats: Aluminum and Nickel-Plated Steel: Galvanic Compatibility (link)
by Honshells 03 Jun '03

03 Jun '03

Tod, Does the link table formula work as follows (?): Aluminum, cast alloys = 0.95 v MINUS Nickel, solid or plated = 0.30 v EQUALS 0.65 v, or far, far higher than the 0.15 v difference for harsh environments, the 0.25 v difference for normal environments or the 0.50 v difference for controlled environments? Do you know what the difference would be for aluminum and stainless in a harsh environment? Thanks! --Craig, chonshell(a)ia4u.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig Honshell" <chonshel1(a)ia4u.net> To: <htmills(a)bright.net> Cc: "'Honshells'" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 9:05 AM Subject: Aluminum and Nickel-Plated Steel: Galvanic Compatibility (link) Tod, I'm not sure I understand how to use the chart in the link you sent: I'm trying to determine whether nickel-plated steel would be less compatible with aluminum that stainless would be. Thanks! --Craig, chonshell(a)ia4u.net ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills(a)bright.net> To: "montgomery_boats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2003 8:57 PM Subject: Galvanic Compatibility (link) Someone passed along this link about galvanic corrosion that some might find interesting: http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

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M_Boats: Aluminum and Nickel-Plated Steel: Galvanic Compatibility (link)
by Honshells 03 Jun '03

03 Jun '03

Tod, Does the link table formula work as follows (?): Aluminum, cast allows = 0.95 v MINUS Nickel, solid or plated = 0.30 v EQUALS 0.65 v, or far, far higher than the 0.15 v difference for harsh environments, the 0.25 v difference for normal environments or the 0.50 v difference for controlled environments? Do you know what the difference would be for aluminum and stainless in a harsh environment? Thanks! --Craig, chonshell(a)ia4u.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig Honshell" <chonshel1(a)ia4u.net> To: <htmills(a)bright.net> Cc: "'Honshells'" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> Sent: Tuesday, June 03, 2003 9:05 AM Subject: Aluminum and Nickel-Plated Steel: Galvanic Compatibility (link) Tod, I'm not sure I understand how to use the chart in the link you sent: I'm trying to determine whether nickel-plated steel would be less compatible with aluminum that stainless would be. Thanks! --Craig, chonshell(a)ia4u.net ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills(a)bright.net> To: "montgomery_boats" <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2003 8:57 PM Subject: Galvanic Compatibility (link) Someone passed along this link about galvanic corrosion that some might find interesting: http://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm

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Swollen Trunk
by Honshells 02 Jun '03

02 Jun '03

I live in mortal fear of a swollen centerboard trunk on my '84 17' . . . Where would moisture ingress to the lead ballast shot most likely occur, from outside the boat (I keep mine on her trailer) or the bilge? What/where should I inspect to give myself peace of mind? Is there any test for moisture besides visual? Obviously, a meter wouldn't work for a lead-ballasted area of the boat, right?

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Re: M_Boats: Simple ladder
by Wcpritchett＠aol.com 01 Jun '03

01 Jun '03

Stan, I think the rudder and hardware on my M10 dink would hold 185lbs. These steps could be easily made with scrap 2024 aluminum. Bill

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Re: M_Boats: New old M-17
by Larry Yake 01 Jun '03

01 Jun '03

Hi Bill, I've loaded my '76 M17 with the board down when the rope broke, no problem. But, like Jesse said, then you have a problem. I had to hoist the boat off the trailer so I could pull the stopper bolt and swing the centerboard all the way down to replace the line. If you do get a diver, maybe while he's down there he could just go ahead and tie on a new rope and save you all that trouble later. He'll have to raise the centerboard a little first to pull the stopper bolt, maybe with a sling. Of course, this is assuming the bolt is exposed and accessible like mine was. Larry Yake M17, #200 Tullamore On Sun, 1 Jun 2003 19:51:16 -0500 "Jesse Tate" <gunsblazing(a)charter.net> writes: > Bill, > > Check with the marina where the boat is docked for local in-water > bottom > cleaning services. The diver could clean the board for you and > probably > wouldn't mind raising it with a sling around the hull. If the board > is > clean enough to move freely it will go up as the boat is loaded on > the > trailer. She won't come off though (been there, done that). > > Jesse > > M 15 #343 > Carolyn J > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill Sylvester" <wmcsyl1(a)cox.net> > To: <montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> > Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2003 6:31 PM > Subject: M_Boats: New old M-17 > > > > Fellow Montgomeryans. > > > > I finally have the trailer at home and am in the process of making > it > > capable of bringing my "New" old Montgomery 17 home. The lady who > is > > selling me the boat presently has it in a slip. > > I asked her last week if the centerboard was down or up, as the > boat > > has been sitting pretty much unused for a couple of years. My > worry > > was that the ocean growth would not allow the board to be raised > if it > > was down. > > I talked with her today and she said she tried to winch up the > > centerboard and the rope broke. I asked if she felt the board > fall and > > she said no. > > If the board is down, will it come up as I try to put it on the > > trailer? The trailer has a rubber roller just behind the axle > which > > looks to me as it might be there for that purpose. > > Please, experienced ones, give me some advice. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Bill > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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Re: M_Boats: New old M-17
by Woodsybill＠aol.com 01 Jun '03

01 Jun '03

There might be some difficulty in forcing the centerboard up during the trailer loading, since the angle of the forward part of the down board is almost vertical ( with slight arc) and the pivot point (hinge pin) is aft. If you attempt to force it up while loading, do it slow, real slow. If the board is replete with growth and the keel trunk has swelled, you may not be able to do it. The best solution is to have the boat hoisted out of the water with a hoist with slings and then have opportunity to observe situation. Since the haul line is broken, you will have to do this anyway. Once hoisted, with centerboard extended, the stop pin will have to be removed, allowing the board to be dropped further so as to attach a new line to the shackle. Use a 1/4 inch line since the bowline knot on the shackle may be so wide (thick) that the larger knot (say 3/8 inch) may impede( friction) hoisting the board back into the keel trunk. I recenty refurbished my centerboard and know a llitle of what I speak. I have some good photos of the centerboard out of the trunk and will gladly send one if desired. Good luck Bill K Half Monty #55

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New old M-17
by Bill Sylvester 01 Jun '03

01 Jun '03

Fellow Montgomeryans. I finally have the trailer at home and am in the process of making it capable of bringing my "New" old Montgomery 17 home. The lady who is selling me the boat presently has it in a slip. I asked her last week if the centerboard was down or up, as the boat has been sitting pretty much unused for a couple of years. My worry was that the ocean growth would not allow the board to be raised if it was down. I talked with her today and she said she tried to winch up the centerboard and the rope broke. I asked if she felt the board fall and she said no. If the board is down, will it come up as I try to put it on the trailer? The trailer has a rubber roller just behind the axle which looks to me as it might be there for that purpose. Please, experienced ones, give me some advice. Thanks, Bill

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