June 2003 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

M17 Cruising Chute
by Egatempo＠aol.com 15 Jun '03

15 Jun '03

Does anyone use a Cruising Chute on their M17? If so do you use a Chutescoop to douse it? Where can one find the specs? George Boatless (but not for long) We cannot direct the wind, but we can adjust our sails.

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Out of Pocket
by Doug King 14 Jun '03

14 Jun '03

Just wanted y'all to know I'm going to be out of touch until June 28 or so. If you don't get a response from me or have MSOG web site business you don't hear from me about, that's why. Later, Doug ------------------------------------------ Doug King M-17 #404 "Vixen" Montgomery Sailboats Owners Group Web site: http://msog.org Email: mailto:msog@msog.org

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Monty 23 For Sale
by Maria Jorge 14 Jun '03

14 Jun '03

In case anyone is interested, there is a beautiful Montgomery 23 just listed for sale on www.yachtworld.com. The boat is a 1978 and is in Minnesota.

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Re: M_Boats: m-15 trailer specs
by Grove777＠aol.com 14 Jun '03

14 Jun '03

i have an older mac cannot seem to query the archives what i need is a posting of measurements that was done by a member for building a trailer for the m-15 can some some w/ a newer computer please help me god bless k

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Re: M_Boats: great raftup this evening!
by TOMMYVAL＠aol.com 13 Jun '03

13 Jun '03

Tod, Thanks for the live updates, I enjoy hearing about the CBC. Are you going to Smith Island today? Thanks for thr post and good to see you for dinner. Hi to Bill Gary

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RE: M_Boats: Engine stuff
by Morris, Giles 13 Jun '03

13 Jun '03

First, I want to thank everybody who responded when I asked for thoughts on replacing Dolphin's engine beds. The Yanmar 2GM came out nicely, sat on the (protected, of course) cabin floor for a week and is now sitting on nice new stainless steel beds and new mounts. Your contributions made a huge difference to me. (As an aside, I managed to decapitate a bolt and spent two -- count 'em -- two days drilling it out clumsily enough that I had to redrill and tap to the next size up) My main worry had become the alignment but, unless I'm missing something, I was lucky enough to get it right without the huge effort I'd anticipated (and will be checking as the new mounts settle, of course). I'm thinking of inserting one of those plastic Drivesaver devices. The propeller turns freely even when the shaft is slid back several inches so space shouldn't be a problem. Found a crack in the silencer, too. Probably caused by overheating when the cooling pump impeller went off duty last summer. Oh, and the oil feed pipe to the cylinder heads (valve gear?) is a little corroded, so that needs replacing. Here's the question that popped up, though: The gearshift control cable is attached to one of two holes on the little stub lever on the transmission. This seems to be to allow for different throw distances on remote controls. It's entirely my fault for not paying attention and checking the connection, but my helper attached the gearshift control cable to the wrong hole so that it was moving the lever less than it should. I fired up the engine and was so pleased (surprised, actually) at the lack of vibration/alignment error and the instant success of the fuel system bleeding that it took a while for me to remember that there had seemed to be a hesitation in the propshaft starting to turn as I put it into gear. Well, the short story is that I had run the thing up in forward and reverse, left it running for a few minutes and shut down. The problem is that I wonder if I've cooked the gearbox. With the engine stopped and the gear set to forward, I can turn the shaft by hand (against a felt resistance) in the astern direction -- it does, however, seem to be solidly locked against the engine in the forward direction. The reverse is true if the gear is set for astern. In other words, the engine seems to be solidly pushing the shaft in the correct direction, but it isn't locked against reverse turning. I'm hoping (really hoping!) that this is the behavior that's referred to when we're told to leave the gear in reverse -- not forward -- while sailing to lock the propeller in place, and it's how things should work. I suppose that now I know how to pull the engine it's not such a huge worry, but it would be really nice not to need to pull off the gearbox. Thanks again, Giles Morris Vancouver 25 Dolphin.

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RE: M_Boats: m-15 trailer specs
by Morris, Giles 13 Jun '03

13 Jun '03

>And as my trailer needs work (or replacing) A few years back I disassembled my M-15 trailer. Had a welder fix the bits of the frame that were rusted and a powder-coating company sandblast and powder-coat it (still think hot galvanizing would be better, but couldn't find anybody to do it) and replaced/reconditioned everything else. It was a good winter project. It wasn't actually all that much work -- the hardest part was getting the boat off and back on in the driveway. I'm pleased with the results. There should be a description somewhere in the archives -- look for "Umiaq" and "trailer". Giles Morris

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m-15 trailer specs
by Grove777＠aol.com 12 Jun '03

12 Jun '03

some time ago some one kindly posted the specs for a trailer for the montgomery 15 i have lost the copy of that posting can some one help me figure out how to find it in the archives please thank you k

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below the waterline...
by Martin Johnson 11 Jun '03

11 Jun '03

After thoroughly sealing the keel / centerboard trunk joint and pivot pin last winter, I have recently discovered that water can leak into the keel of my 1976 M17 through the lowest gudgeon bolts via the transom and into the skeg. Although these bolts an nuts are visible from inside the hull (in my case through an added cockpit hatch,) no water was visible in the hull as is was travelling down into the skeg(?) that runs aft of the keel to the transom. Does anyone have information on the composition and layup of the transom and the skeg? I am currently filling the area around the bottom gudgeon with thickened epoxy to be redrilled and the gudgeon rebedded. I know of a M17 here in Duluth that was rear-ended by a Dodge Neon that I'll be hoping to examine this week. Perhaps that M17 cadaver can be of service as a research aid. On a more uplifting note, I've been sailing despite my leaky boat, and I'm having great success with the traveller I installed per Jerry's protocol. Thanks, Martin

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M17 Rig Tunning
by Egatempo＠aol.com 11 Jun '03

11 Jun '03

Due to my tow vehicle breaking down I am still Boatless. The Texas M17 is now residing at Lake Carlyle, IL waiting for me to pick her up as soon as I get wheels. I will not have the benefit of the PO helping me rig the boat for my test sail. I am sure I know how to go about getting all the rigging and bits and pieces together. What I need is some help on the tension required for the stays and the best sequence to go about tuning the rigging. I had a single backstay and the M17 has a split backstay is there something special I should be aware of here. I do have a Loos gauge. How much mast rake should be induced in a M17, I had approx. 3-4 inches on my Seaward 22 with a 27 foot mast. Looking forward to getting on the water again. I had intended to make the end of the CBC, but will have to wait till next year to meet up the M sailors. I would be glad to trailer to locations on the East Coast to meet and sail with anyone this season. I do have an invitation to visit Bill Irving and his M17 in Keyport NJ I have been thinking of leading my Main and Jib halyards internal to the mast. Has anyone done this on a M17? George Boatless (but not for long) We cannot direct the wind, but we can adjust our sails.

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