November 2003 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: settee bed
by chbenneck＠juno.com 07 Nov '03

07 Nov '03

Rachel, Another thought: For years my wife and I were trying to come up with an nice double bed in the Tripp-Lentsch. We tried various schemes: plywood under one berth that can be pulled out to make a double - but then you loose access to the storage lockers under the berth. Finally one rainy day, sitting in the cabin and reading, the great blinding flash of inspiration struck: BINGO! I grabbed my tape measure to see if the idea would work, ...............and it did! The idea was, take the fore and aft berth and rotate it 90 degrees so that it fit crosswise in the cabin. As luck would have it, the length of the berth was exactly the width of the cabin, so the turn by 90 degrees idea would work. What I did, was cut away the edging to keep the mattresses in place; cut notches in the fiberglass, and add some oak support beams to carry our combined weights. I used our cockpit table over the support beams to give us a flat surface for the mattresses, and Lo, a wonderful wide double berth. But why did it take me 20 years to finally get that inspiration? Connie

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Re: M_Boats: A plug for block ice
by IDCLLC＠aol.com 07 Nov '03

07 Nov '03

For what it's worth, we found on a cross-country car trip that block ice is much, much more effective than the usual crushed variety-like it will last three times as long. This may make dry ice unnecessary for most trips. Unfortunately, you can't get block ice here in the South-damned if I know why-but you could make your own with tupperware tubs, etc. No, I haven't done this yet! Steve Tyree, P-15

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recommendations instruments
by MC Carpenter 06 Nov '03

06 Nov '03

I am looking for recording log and speed and recording barometer, four days is good enough, I would like to know if the no impeller speed / log work as well as they claim

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final gel coat
by MC Carpenter 06 Nov '03

06 Nov '03

does the final gel coat completely seal the hull from any microscopic movement of water or is best to paint the hull over the top of the gel coat.

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Re: M_Boats: Re: New Old M-17
by Larry Yake 06 Nov '03

06 Nov '03

Bill, Those dark smoky areas could be bad news. Sounds like osmosis blistering, where water gets through the gel coat and starts dissolving the chemicals in the layers behind it. (I assume you're talking about below the water line.) There's others on the list who have dealt with that or you can get a technical bulletin from Interlux (#900D) that describes the causes and how to fix it. Good luck, Larry On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 16:48:00 -0800 Bill Sylvester <wmcsyl1(a)cox.net> writes: > Larry, > > Thanks for the suggestions. Tullamore does look beautiful. > I have > found that there are a lot of dark (smoky looking) areas on the > hull. > I am hoping that a fiberglass cleaner will help wash them out. > > Bill > > On Thursday, November 6, 2003, at 04:23 PM, Larry Yake wrote: > > > Bill, > > I did the same project on Tullamore a couple years ago. I used > Peel > > Away Bottom Paint Stripper. It's safe on fiberglass and gel coat > and > > is > > available from West Marine (page 338 in the 2003 catalog). It's a > > > messy, > > slow, tedious job getting that old paint off though. The stuff > smears > > on > > like finger paint, you leave it there for a hour or two I > believe, > > covered with wax paper, and it softens the old paint so you can > wipe, > > scrape, rub, etc., etc., and eventually get the slimy paste off. > It > > won't be a pretty finish when you're done though. The old gel coat > will > > be stained and lines of the old paint will be visible in any old > > scratches that they painted over. I had to repaint the hull below > the > > boot stripe. My boat lives on a trailer also, so I used VC High > > Performance Epoxy paint which has worked out excellent. It is a > very > > hard > > finish, excellent for trailering, and has a Teflon component, > which > > makes > > it very fast, too. If you want to see pictures of mine, there are > some > > on the web site under Raise the Montgomery, Larry Yake's method. > > (clever > > name, huh?) It made the boat look 100% better, especially when > she's > > heeled over! ;-) > > > > Larry Yake > > M17 #200 > > Tullamore > > "In a power boat you get there faster. > > In a sailboat you're already there." > > > > > > On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 14:15:47 -0800 Bill Sylvester > <wmcsyl1(a)cox.net> > > writes: > >> Endelig has had numerous different applications of > bottom > >> paint and > >> she looks pretty shabby below the water line. Since she will be > a > >> trailer boat, we are planning to not have any paint on her hull. > >> Paint strippers that I have found say "Don't use on > >> fiberglass!" Is > >> there a paint stripper or method to get the old paint off > without > >> dulling the jell-coat? > >> She also has patches of mussel hairs that are proving > very > >> tough to > >> remove. > >> > >> Thanks, > >> > >> Bill > >> > >> M-17 # 279 > >> Endelig > >> > >> > >> _______________________________________________ > >> > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >> > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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weight on the 17
by MC Carpenter 06 Nov '03

06 Nov '03

has the weight of the center board on the 17 changed over the past few years that is from 1983 to present. is the shape the same, so that one centerboard can be moved to an other boat, or is each one custom fit.

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Re: M_Boats: Bilge Water
by bownez＠juno.com 06 Nov '03

06 Nov '03

Hello Martin, Thank you for your input on the water/keel delema. We have M17s of the same year and I hope to sail next to yours in Duluth next season. I will study your info on the MSOG website. Stay warm up there in Dull-tooth. Bones in Mpls ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!

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RE: M_Boats: Re: New Old M-17
by Morris, Giles 06 Nov '03

06 Nov '03

> It won't be a pretty finish when you're done though True. I sanded Dolphin down to gelcoat before applying an epoxy barrier and new bottom paint. One way or another you'll probably want to paint it. I tried Peel-Away and found it to be more trouble than it was worth, but I know that others would disagree. The yards seem to use rotary sanders to remove old bottom paint and they can do it very fast, but I didn't like the scratches and gouges that left so I spent a miserable few days using a scraper and palm sander. I never want to do that again, but it was a lot more gentle on the hull. BTW: I found later that there are two varieties of Peel-Away. The (expensive) marine version and the cheaper (surprise!) other variety that you buy from the paint store. Dunno how much difference there is between them. Giles Morris

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Re: M_Boats: Re: New Old M-17
by Larry Yake 06 Nov '03

06 Nov '03

Bill, I did the same project on Tullamore a couple years ago. I used Peel Away Bottom Paint Stripper. It's safe on fiberglass and gel coat and is available from West Marine (page 338 in the 2003 catalog). It's a messy, slow, tedious job getting that old paint off though. The stuff smears on like finger paint, you leave it there for a hour or two I believe, covered with wax paper, and it softens the old paint so you can wipe, scrape, rub, etc., etc., and eventually get the slimy paste off. It won't be a pretty finish when you're done though. The old gel coat will be stained and lines of the old paint will be visible in any old scratches that they painted over. I had to repaint the hull below the boot stripe. My boat lives on a trailer also, so I used VC High Performance Epoxy paint which has worked out excellent. It is a very hard finish, excellent for trailering, and has a Teflon component, which makes it very fast, too. If you want to see pictures of mine, there are some on the web site under Raise the Montgomery, Larry Yake's method. (clever name, huh?) It made the boat look 100% better, especially when she's heeled over! ;-) Larry Yake M17 #200 Tullamore "In a power boat you get there faster. In a sailboat you're already there." On Thu, 6 Nov 2003 14:15:47 -0800 Bill Sylvester <wmcsyl1(a)cox.net> writes: > Endelig has had numerous different applications of bottom > paint and > she looks pretty shabby below the water line. Since she will be a > trailer boat, we are planning to not have any paint on her hull. > Paint strippers that I have found say "Don't use on > fiberglass!" Is > there a paint stripper or method to get the old paint off without > dulling the jell-coat? > She also has patches of mussel hairs that are proving very > tough to > remove. > > Thanks, > > Bill > > M-17 # 279 > Endelig > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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Re: M_Boats: 14.1 volts charging
by bownez＠juno.com 06 Nov '03

06 Nov '03

MC, It's really a matter of current, not voltage. Too much current will overheat the battery, warp plates, and possibly crack the sealed case. The rule of thumb is to charge batteries at 10% of its amp-hour rating. 14 volts should be the DC cutoff voltage while maintaining the 10% charging current, As the battery becomes charged, the current should be ramped down ending in a trickle charge of 100 to 200 ma to "float" the battery. I've seen many a battery ruined by a non limiting charger. Natch, the better chargers cost more, so do AGM batteries. Later, Bones ________________________________________________________________ The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand! Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER! Only $14.95/ month - visit www.juno.com to sign up today!

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