October 2003 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Re: M_Boats: New old M-17
by dik lang 10 Oct '03

10 Oct '03

The rod on my m-17 is stainless and extends from the top of the transom to just below the lowest gudgeon (rudder post bracket) by about 3/4 inch. There are two holes drilled throgh the rod at the lower end to accept two cotter pins, one above and one below the lowest gudgeon. I have learned that stainless does not do well if left under saltwater. Dik Lang M-17 "Sweet Pea" >From: Bill Sylvester <wmcsyl1(a)cox.net> >Reply-To: For and about Montgomery >Sailboats<montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> >To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats ><montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com> >Subject: M_Boats: New old M-17 >Date: Thu, 9 Oct 2003 11:51:11 -0700 > > > I am continuing to attempt to restore to my old 1978 M-17. Have finished >her tiller and rudder and now need to replace the half inch rod that the >rudder turns and slides on. > The rod has been eaten away to just above the waterline so I don't know >how long the original one was. > I would appreciate information of the length of the rod and suggested >material. I believe the one I have is stainless steel but the rot makes me >wonder. > >Thanks, > >Bill > > > >_______________________________________________ >http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _________________________________________________________________ Compare Cable, DSL or Satellite plans: As low as $29.95. https://broadband.msn.com

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Reef Block on M-15
by Ludlow, Don 08 Oct '03

08 Oct '03

Steve E talked about his trip at CCA V with John Edwards on Scamp. He mentioned having a second clew block on his boom to run the main reef line through. I only have one block on the left, rear of the boom for the outhaul. When I reef, I have to pull the outhaul line out of the block and feed the clew reef line through the same block. Does anyone else have the second block? Fair Winds Don Ludlow - M15 # 620 Sweet Dream Ludlowd(a)BEK.com

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boat cover
by Thomas Wilkinson 07 Oct '03

07 Oct '03

I'm looking for a boat cover for my M17. I will store it with the mast down and it does not need to be included by the cover. Does anyone know of a source for a cover? Tom M17 Obsessus

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Sailing the Montgomery 15 and 17
by Harvey Wilson 07 Oct '03

07 Oct '03

>> According to the list most of the owners near to me seem to be in the Chesapeake area. I would be willing to make a drive of 200 miles or so to see and possibly sail on one these boats.<< Hi Kirk... I live on the west shore of Lake Lanier, about 30 miles north of Atlanta. You ?? Harvey/ Ga M-17 Stargazer #294

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Re: M_Boats: Keel Stop Bolt Repair
by Larry Yake 07 Oct '03

07 Oct '03

Hello Randy and Tom. Yes, I had the same problem with my centerboard stop bolt. The material it threaded into in the keel had turned to mush. For lack of a better and easier option, I just drilled all the way through and put in a stainless steel bolt. Drill the hole oversize, then fill it with epoxy and drill the smaller hole through that to seal moisture out of the keel. Use a long enough bolt so the tang doesn't rest on the threaded part. You may have to cut off some extra beyond the nut and washer. I used a nylon bushing type lock nut. At the time I thought this would just be a temporary fix, but I've decided I like it that way. It really makes changing the centerboard pendant a lot easier, or dropping the centerboard for any reason. Larry Yake M17, #200 Tullamore On Tue, 7 Oct 2003 13:30:49 -0700 "Smith, Tom" <Tom.Smith(a)itron.com> writes: Larry Yake has run both the bolt that fixes the cb in place (well really, that's the way this bolt is configured, except there are recesses in the keel to accomodate the bolt head and nut), plus the bolt that serves to stop the cb tang, directly through the keel (correct me if I misrepresent you Larry). It certainly seems like a common sense thing to do to me. Any resulting disturbance to flow over the keel would in my mind be a minor problem compared to the gains in ease of installation/repair. If you get an M17 in a position to drop the cb into the cb trunk, you're way beyond knockdown. I've hear this is a concern in a Potter, but have never encountered this worry with an M17. It would be way down my list of things to lose sleep over... t Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle Sandpoint, Idaho M15-345, Chukar M17-064, Unnamed -----Original Message----- From: Randy Wirth [mailto:randy@caffeibis.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 12:50 PM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Keel Stop Bolt Repair I have a 1974 17' Montgomery,"Fore Play", that I need to replace the keel boat on. I pulled the steel keel last spring and took it down to bare metal and recoated and reinstalled it with a new rope and fittings. I replaced the stainless stop bolt at that time but had it come lose last weekend after a big blow. When I dived overboard to reinsert and tighten it, there was nothing to thread into. I am trying to decide if I should drill completely through and put a longer bolt with washer and locknut or if I should try to epoxy in another nut within the keel housing. I would be greatful for any input. Randy .Bearlake,Utah P.S. Has anyone ever seen a need to retrofit a keel stop for when you have a knockdown and roll over to prevent the keel from slaming back into the slot and sinking the boat? I am not aware of this ever happening to a M-17 but I know that this provision has been made for other small pocket cruisers. This message was scanned for viruses!!

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m-17 centerboard corrosion
by dik lang 07 Oct '03

07 Oct '03

This is just an update on how to keep off the streets when one is not sailing. I have just finished my centerboard project. Now I have to wait til spring for the results. After all the talk of galvanizing the cast iron board, I decided it best to completely insulate it from the seawater. I have encaplulated it in Kevlar and epoxy! I think this will prevent any corrosion and slow the lateral wear on the board. I created a kevlar bushing to fully insulate the bronze jpivot pin as well. The total cost in do it yourself dollars (no labor charge) is about eighty dollars. _________________________________________________________________ Instant message with integrated webcam using MSN Messenger 6.0. Try it now FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com

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RE: M_Boats: Keel Stop Bolt Repair
by Smith, Tom 07 Oct '03

07 Oct '03

Larry Yake has run both the bolt that fixes the cb in place (well really, that's the way this bolt is configured, except there are recesses in the keel to accomodate the bolt head and nut), plus the bolt that serves to stop the cb tang, directly through the keel (correct me if I misrepresent you Larry). It certainly seems like a common sense thing to do to me. Any resulting disturbance to flow over the keel would in my mind be a minor problem compared to the gains in ease of installation/repair. If you get an M17 in a position to drop the cb into the cb trunk, you're way beyond knockdown. I've hear this is a concern in a Potter, but have never encountered this worry with an M17. It would be way down my list of things to lose sleep over... t Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle Sandpoint, Idaho M15-345, Chukar M17-064, Unnamed -----Original Message----- From: Randy Wirth [mailto:randy@caffeibis.com] Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 12:50 PM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Keel Stop Bolt Repair I have a 1974 17' Montgomery,"Fore Play", that I need to replace the keel boat on. I pulled the steel keel last spring and took it down to bare metal and recoated and reinstalled it with a new rope and fittings. I replaced the stainless stop bolt at that time but had it come lose last weekend after a big blow. When I dived overboard to reinsert and tighten it, there was nothing to thread into. I am trying to decide if I should drill completely through and put a longer bolt with washer and locknut or if I should try to epoxy in another nut within the keel housing. I would be greatful for any input. Randy .Bearlake,Utah P.S. Has anyone ever seen a need to retrofit a keel stop for when you have a knockdown and roll over to prevent the keel from slaming back into the slot and sinking the boat? I am not aware of this ever happening to a M-17 but I know that this provision has been made for other small pocket cruisers. _____ This message was scanned for viruses!!

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Re: M_Boats: Keel Stop Bolt Repair
by s.mcclellan＠comcast.net 07 Oct '03

07 Oct '03

Hey Randy -- I can certainly see where having your keel swing back up during a knockdown might make it a little more difficult to right the boat -- but it wouldn't *sink* the boat, would it? Steve McClellan

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Keel Stop Bolt Repair
by Randy Wirth 07 Oct '03

07 Oct '03

I have a 1974 17' Montgomery,"Fore Play", that I need to replace the keel boat on. I pulled the steel keel last spring and took it down to bare metal and recoated and reinstalled it with a new rope and fittings. I replaced the stainless stop bolt at that time but had it come lose last weekend after a big blow. When I dived overboard to reinsert and tighten it, there was nothing to thread into. I am trying to decide if I should drill completely through and put a longer bolt with washer and locknut or if I should try to epoxy in another nut within the keel housing. I would be greatful for any input. Randy .Bearlake,Utah P.S. Has anyone ever seen a need to retrofit a keel stop for when you have a knockdown and roll over to prevent the keel from slaming back into the slot and sinking the boat? I am not aware of this ever happening to a M-17 but I know that this provision has been made for other small pocket cruisers.

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RE: M_Boats: boat cover
by Shawn Boles 07 Oct '03

07 Oct '03

I do the same thing. Works fine. cheers- Shawn Boles Grey Mist (M17 #276 1978) -----Original Message----- From: Howard Audsley [mailto:haudsley@tranquility.net] Sent: Tuesday, October 07, 2003 4:57 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: boat cover For the past three winters, I've used a heavy, silver colored truck tarp....10' x 20'....purchased at the local farm supply store. It lays over the horizontal mast, and is strapped down to various points along the trailer frame. Gives some ventilation, but keeps all the rain and snow out. Cost was about $50. Howard M17, #278 On 10/6/03 10:48 PM, "Thomas Wilkinson" <ttwilki(a)mindspring.com> wrote: I'm looking for a boat cover for my M17. I will store it with the mast down and it does not need to be included by the cover. Does anyone know of a source for a cover? Tom M17 Obsessus _____ _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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