I have an *extremely* nice Xevious if anyone is interested. Cosmetically it is in amazing shape. It really is a beautiful cab. Side art and CPO are in great shape, no significant damage, . Right now I am doing a cap kit on the G07 that is in it. The only drawback is the monitor has the Xevious name burned in it, but it does work. Serial number is 00095, which is kinda cool. There is no water damage. The worst part is the marquee. Someone sprayed it with clear coat, and it's in bad shape. The art was silk-screened on the top of the glass, so removing the clear coat removes the art. Repros are available, however, so it's not a permanent blemish. Trades preferred. Pics available if it looks like we can put together a deal. Sean McLachlan MIS Manager LithoFlexo grafics inc. 801.484.8503
I'm looking for a Williams cabinet, preferably a Joust, Defender or Robotron (in that order). If anyone has one to sell or trade (don't know what I have you would want, but I can try) please let me know. I know that Dax was trying to give one away a couple weeks ago, but I was out with a kidney stone that weekend and could not handle it. Thanks! -Chris
Does anyone have any experience with removing laminate/formica stuff from the sides of a cabinet without damaging the art underneath? It's painted artwork. The laminate *wants* to come off, it's loose. But the glue (looks like some sort of construction adhesive...the yellow stuff) seems to want to stay on the cabinet. So... (A) How do I remove it? I was thinking a heat gun. I can pull, but I worry at one point the old paint will be the weakest link and I'll pull the art off. (B) Then, how do I remove the constuction adhesive...hopefully without removing the paint in the process. Worst case scenario is strip it down, remove all the paint, sand and re-stencil, but I'm not up to that right now. Plus, I prefer original with some damage to re-done artwork with none. Thanks in advance, -Chris
On , utvgg-bounces+sean=lithoflexo.com@mailman.xmission.com <> sprang to life and wrote:
(A) How do I remove it? I was thinking a heat gun. I can pull, but I worry at one point the old paint will be the weakest link and I'll pull the art off.
(B) Then, how do I remove the constuction adhesive...hopefully without removing the paint in the process.
A and B: Heat gun and several wedges. I've removed laminate before from a counter top, and here is what I did. Heat up a small area on an edge, maybe 4 x 8 inches, till the glue gets soft and you can peel the laminate up about an inch. The glue came up with the laminate, and didn't leave any on the wood below. YMMV. Slide in a wedge and move to the next area. After I got about a foot into it, I cut the laminate back to keep things easy to work with. The counter I was refinishing was a cheap particle board, and I didn't damage it at all doing this, so I think you'll have good luck with it. I did have a few bits of glue that stuck to the wood, but I just heated them up again and slid a putty knife under it. I don't know if you'll be able to do that on a painted surface, though. Make sure you take before and after pics, I want to see how it turns out. Sean
I need the wiring that hooks the video board of Super Pac to the monitor. It's a long shot, but... Also, Chris Strong: I have a black cardboard monitor bezel from a Kangaroo that may fit your Millipede. It's yours free if you want it. Bert: I found a 13" monitor that the chassis was physically broken but the tube, yoke and neckboard are all good with no burn. I had saved it in case I ever wanted to do a tube swap to get rid of the burn on CC, but since CC lives at your house now, you can have it. Sean
I'm looking for a Gauntlet or Gauntlet II, 4-player, working or dead. -Chris
Somewhere, I've seen both painted and stainless-steel edge protectors for arcade cabinets. I cannot remember where I saw them for sale. I *think* some of the Williams machines came with them. Does anyone know where to get them? Also, the Joust resoration is going well. I'm going to set up a webpage on how to remove formica/laminate from a cabinet. -Chris
http://www.happcontrols.com/amusement/acesor/49057000.htm
-----Original Message----- From: utvgg-bounces+bret=classicade.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:utvgg-bounces+bret=classicade.com@mailman.xmission.com ] On Behalf Of Christopher Strong Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2004 1:11 PM To: utvgg@mailman.xmission.com Subject: [UtVgG] stainless steel edge protectors
Somewhere, I've seen both painted and stainless-steel edge protectors for arcade cabinets. I cannot remember where I saw them for sale.
I *think* some of the Williams machines came with them.
Does anyone know where to get them?
Also, the Joust resoration is going well. I'm going to set up a webpage on how to remove formica/laminate from a cabinet.
-Chris
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On Thu, 6 May 2004, Bret Pehrson wrote:
Thanks Bret...and I may pick some up. But I mean the long ones that go along the bottom of the sides or front of the cabinet. I have one with a lot of water damage right along the bottom of the plywood. Worst case is I have some cut from angle stock. But I know they make some nice brushed stainless ones. -Chris
Ok, now I get it. I haven't seen anything like that specifically for the arcade industry -- You may want to check out your local home improvement/hardware store and look at flooring edging -- it comes in several colors, and from what I recall, some styles do have a lip (not a full L-angle, though).
-----Original Message-----
Thanks Bret...and I may pick some up. But I mean the long ones that go along the bottom of the sides or front of the cabinet. I have one with a lot of water damage right along the bottom of the plywood.
Worst case is I have some cut from angle stock. But I know they make some nice brushed stainless ones.
-Chris
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If anyone has a line on a Lunar Lander cab, empty or not, I'd appreciate hearing about it. Otherwise I'm parting mine out, I want my garage back. Sean
participants (3)
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Bret Pehrson -
Christopher Strong -
Sean McLachlan