October 2004 - UtVgG - mailman.xmission.com

Bill changer anyone?
by Pete Ashdown 29 Oct '04

29 Oct '04

Anyone got a spare bill changer sitting around? I'd like one that I can update to take the new bills.

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Mathbox on SW.
by Chris Hardy 27 Oct '04

27 Oct '04

Well, I'll be up in Utah during Thanksgiving, and I'm hoping to work on the SW while I am up there.. The error looks to be mathbox related. What do I need to get to fix it? (so I can work on it whilst I am up there.) -- The Force is strong with this one! -- Darth Vader "Star Wars : A New Hope" Chris Hardy (chris(a)hardys.org or support(a)mission.net)

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Is this a shorted transistor?
by Sean McLachlan 26 Oct '04

26 Oct '04

So I'm working on the G08, in the HV section. There are 2 transistors that bolt to the chassis and when I check them, they both read 30K ohms between the case and the chassis. They do this even when they aren't touching the chassis at all. Is this normal? I have always just used the continuity test to check this, but I'm paranoid about this monitor. Is 30K ohms high enough to be called "not a short"? What is the threshold? Sean McLachlan MIS Manager LithoFlexo grafics inc. 801.484.8503

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Multimeter suggestions?
by Sean McLachlan 25 Oct '04

25 Oct '04

An unusual thing happened at my house recently. A hole developed in the fabric of space-time, and sucked my multimeter into another dimension. I figured I'd just build a quick warp core to re-open the rift, but I can't build a warp core without a multimeter, so I am resigned to buying a new one. My old DMM (http://tinyurl.com/5wtuz) was a decent one from Radio Shack, even had a built in logic probe. I'm happy with it, but I thought I'd ask if anyone had any other suggestions for a good one in the $70-or-less range. Thanks guys. Sean McLachlan MIS Manager LithoFlexo grafics inc. 801.484.8503

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2N6259 's for G08
by Sean McLachlan 20 Oct '04

20 Oct '04

I don't know if this is well known or not. I found it by searching the vectorlist archive so it's not really secret or anything. Anyway, the deflection transistors in the G08 are 2n6259 's. But the G08 repair kit Bob Roberts and Zannen sell use 2N3716. They last about 20 seconds, and then go *poof*. This is also true for the NTE388, something to do with Secondary Breakdown characteristics, but I'll leave that debate for the guys who know what they are talking about. There is another part, MJ15024, that vectorlist accepts as a workable substitute. They are available from www.DigiKey.com and www.alliedelec.com for about $4 each. They don't look to have a minimum order but I might be wrong on that. Ra-El-Co can still get the original 2N6259's for $6 each, no minimum order. I ordered 6 of them. I would also guess that they can get the MJ15024, but I didn't ask. And please, burn a candle on my behalf as I walk through the valley of suffering that is the G08. I'll be posting a repair log when I get it fixed. Sean McLachlan MIS Manager LithoFlexo grafics inc. 801.484.8503

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millipede demo mode?
by Christopher Strong 18 Oct '04

18 Oct '04

Does anyone know what the "demo" mode on millipede is for? It seems to prevent the loose 'pede heads from killing you, but I think that is all. It's marked "demonstration" in the manual, and shows up "DEMO MODE" (replacing "FREE PLAY" in my case) in the test screen. Any ideas? -Chris

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monitor discharging.
by Christopher Strong 16 Oct '04

16 Oct '04

I finally looked at my discharge setup, into which I had put some research (re: our recent discussion). I used an 800K 25W resistor. The reason I used a wirewound resistor is that a small carbon resistor can arc inside and fry, leaving you with an open circuit, so when you think you're discharging, nothing is being drained. V=IR, right? Assuming a tube voltage of 10,000V: V/R=I, 10000/800000 = .0125 So that's .0125A, or 12.5mA. But at 10000V: P=IV, or P=(.0125)(10000)=125W That's a whole lot of watts. But as we discharge that voltage very quickly, over a wirewound resistor, that's not too bad. I used a new screwdriver with a heavy handle and a 7" metal shank terminating in a narrow flat tip. I used a 16 gauge lamp (I used both wires) cord with heavy insulation, wrapping the wire around the screwdriver for a good mechanical connection soldering the wire to the metal shank (I chose a screwdriver with a frosted finish for better adherence) and then tied the cord to the handle with a cable tie, and then used multiple layers of heavy heatshrink over the solder joint to serve as a strain relief. I put the resistor inline, with multiple levels of heat shrink over the ends, wrapping the upper levels of heatshrink onto the resistor body to prevent lead fatigue and failure. I then used two final layers of heatshrink on top of the entire resistor portion of the cable, both to insulate the resistor and provide additional strain relief. Silicone-insulated high-voltage test lead wire would be a better choice, but I did not have any at the time. I would always measure the resistance of the discharge lead before and after use, so as to be certain the cable did not fail. And remember that the portion of the wire between the screwdriver and the resistor is at the anode cap voltage potential during discharge, so avoid contact with it and inspect it for damage. Treat it like an expensive test tool, and if the resistor or wiring becomes bent or damaged, throw it away and make a new one. -Chris

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Favor/looking for Junk boards.
by Chris Hardy 16 Oct '04

16 Oct '04

I'm prepin to work on my BZ. Kurt recommended I resoder all the connections between the boards. I'm good ad sodering big lugs on the solinoids on the Pinball machines, but I have yet to use my sodering skills on a board. So, do any of you have known bad boards, that are deader than a doornail that I can get cheap? ;) I just want something to practice against. (I'm paranoid.) -- You're a part of the Rebel Alliance...and a traitor. Take her away! -- Darth Vader "Star Wars : A New Hope" Chris Hardy (chris(a)hardys.org or support(a)mission.net)

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Stern tour
by Chris Hardy 14 Oct '04

14 Oct '04

I know this would probably be interesting to just the pin junkies, but take a look at the Stern Tour that happened during the Chicago Expo. http://gallery.myhomegameroom.com/gallery/sterntour2004?page=1 -- "36 Hours, sponsored by Interplanetary Expeditions -- Exploring the past to create a better future." -- Voiceover in Babylon 5:"And Now For a Word" Chris Hardy (chris(a)hardys.org or support(a)mission.net)

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Tempest > Major Havoc
by Sean McLachlan 14 Oct '04

14 Oct '04

Hi guys, I have this Tempest that is in nice shape, I should have it wrapped up in a month or so. For me, space is at a premium so I have to be careful about what I put in the arcade. I never really loved Tempest, but I can't seem to swallow the idea of moving an Atari game out the door either. So I'm wondering about getting a Major Havoc board so I can swap it in and have 2, yes 2 games for the space of 1. My question is, is this an easy "unplug one board, plug the other in and go" type of swap, or are there other concerns here? My plan is to build 2 short extension cables and have both boards mounted in the cab with the extensions attached. The original wiring harness end and the extension cable end would be accessible through the coin door. Open the coin door, connect whichever board I want, power up and play. I do not want to have to move the game to switch boards, that's the deal breaker. Any caveats I should be aware of? Sean McLachlan

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