Hi, I just called Camera Country and found out they do E6 and push processing. I just need to set the ASA film speed to 800 for "Push 2" or set the film speed to 400 for "Push 1". Last time I set the film speed to ASA 200 and that's why they couldn't push the film. This is the way I understand it. However, as Joe said a "Push 2" will make the film more grainer so I may just do a "Push 1" next time. According to the January 1999 Sky and Telescope issue, Ektachrome E200 pushed two stops in a good option for camera-on-tripod shots. Thanks guys for the tip on Borge Andersen. I'll keep that in mind. Debbie
From: Patrick Wiggins <paw@trilobyte.net> Date: 2004/12/02 Thu PM 07:35:59 MST To: Utah Astronomy <utah-astronomy@mailman.xmission.com> Subject: [Utah-astronomy] Re: Kodak E200 processing
Howdy,
astrodeb@charter.net wrote:
Patrick,
I can't find anybody in St. George that can do the E6 processing.
That surprises me. I thought any place that processes slide film uses E6. Very odd indeed.
Do you know anybody in Salt Lake that will do it? Borge Andersen Photo, 800.349.7703, http://www.borge.net/ Creative Color, 801.355.4124
I'm sure Chuck Hards will also have some thoughts on this but now that he's only getting emails once a week it may take him a while to reply.
Patrick
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Hi deb To insure that you have the 'correct' exposure, have the lab do a 'head snip' and run that piece of film at whatever adjustment you assign to it. Inspect the film snip (after processing) and if an additional adjustment is needed, make the correction/adjustment. You must expose the film at the same given ASA/ISO for the whole roll for the snip to be of value. We do this at XINIA PRODUCTIONS here on Maui all the time for valuable exposures and to insure correct processing for the those frames. Aloha Rob
On Fri, 3 Dec 2004 astrodeb@charter.net wrote:
I just called Camera Country and found out they do E6 and push processing. I just need to set the ASA film speed to 800 for "Push 2" or set the film speed to 400 for "Push 1".
When doing astrophotography, are exposures not controlled (i.e. timed) manually? If so, what does it matter what the ASA is set to? Camera dummy that I am, I had thought that the "ASA setting" was merely an input to the camera's exposure calculating machinery, which is inactive when exposures are controlled manually. Hence, I would have guessed that for astrophotography purposes, the ASA setting of the camera wouldn't make a difference. What am I missing? I know next to nothing about the art and science of photography, so I beg the list's collective forgiveness for the ignorance revealed by my inquiry. :-) Chris
Hi Deb, What you were saying just didn't make sense so I called Camera Country and talked to their E-6 guy. Turns out, what you heard from their sales person is what they tell folks taking "normal" pictures (I guess that proves the rest of us are abnormal...). However, when I explained you were going to be taking pictures with exposures lasting several minutes he said that changes everything and that the setting on the camera in such cases makes no difference. So, what you need to do is take the film in and just ask them to push it one stop (makes it ISO 400) or two stops (ISO 800). It was kind of interesting that when I started getting into how pushing is accomplished (extending the development times) he didn't seem to know about that stuff. So I get the impression they're not really a custom photo lab, but rather there's probably some dial on the machine they use that can be set to No Push, Push One Stop and Push Two Stops. :-) I hope this clears things up. Patrick p.s. Should you ever decide to try your hand at processing the film yourself, just let me know and I'll get you started. It's really not that hard and there's something to be said for showing a picture and being able to say "I shot and processed that myself". astrodeb@charter.net wrote:
Hi,
I just called Camera Country and found out they do E6 and push processing. I just need to set the ASA film speed to 800 for "Push 2" or set the film speed to 400 for "Push 1". Last time I set the film speed to ASA 200 and that's why they couldn't push the film. This is the way I understand it.
However, as Joe said a "Push 2" will make the film more grainer so I may just do a "Push 1" next time. According to the January 1999 Sky and Telescope issue, Ektachrome E200 pushed two stops in a good option for camera-on-tripod shots.
Thanks guys for the tip on Borge Andersen. I'll keep that in mind.
Debbiee
participants (4)
-
astrodeb＠charter.net -
cpclark＠xmission.com -
Patrick Wiggins -
Rob Ratkowski