Obs Notes - 5/6-7 SPOC Ealing
I began around 10:30 pm doing review with a partial star hop tour of the Virgo Realm of the Galaxies on the SPOC Ealing. The Ealing DSC is down, so it was back to star hopping. Sky brightness 20.3 or an ZLM of about 5.6. The sky was clear from horizon to horizon but seeing was poor - 2/5, measured from a warm up and alignment 3 arcsec double - eps Boo. Temp was 37 F. Fogging on the Telrad, but not other finders was a problem. Using the eastern route into the Realm using eps Vir and rho Virgo as guideposts, a RA slew from eps Vir took me across m10.2 galaxy NGC4762 and its faint smaller companion NGC4754. Continuing the RA slew brought me to v8.8 M60. The v 13.3 companion galaxy NGC4649 was not visible. A 52mm was used as an eyepiece finder, while a 25mm and 20mm e.p.s at 203x and 254x gave the best contrast. Losing an eyepiece TFOV in declination and a further RA slew brought M59 and then M58 into view. Then I switched to doubles - running two of the Bootes double trio suggested in Gary Seronik's column in the new June issue of ST: del Boo and mu Boo. The companion to mu Boo has a great bluish color.
From below the horizon, the nearly 3/4 Moon was beginning to lighten the eastern sky. By this time, Sag and Oph and Jupiter were rising. This week's ST e-bulletin and the June issue of ST noted that dwarf planet Vesta (dia. 501) is currently naked eye and is at its brightest in the last 18 years. Vesta could be easily detected in the light-polluted southeast sky nearly midway between eta and zeta Oph. eta and zeta Oph and Vesta are the three brightest objects in that region.
Then the Moon rose. I switched to hunting M40 in the northwest sky and after the Moon and Jupiter rose to around 15 degs alt, I took a few minutes to view both in poor seeing. With a light blue filter at 334x, Jupiter yielded up four or five bands, but as expected, little detail. Dorsa Smirnov in eastern Serenitatis was illuminated with low angle light and was visible for its entire 150km length. This was a nice end to wet weekend that otherwise curtailed visual astronomy. - Kurt _______________________________________________ Sent via CSolutions - http://www.csolutions.net
I have a silcone-based anti-fogging solution meant for safety glasses that works rather well. I'll talk to Bruce about testing it on the SPOC Telrads and if he gives the go-ahead, I'll apply it. The Telrad optics are just acryllic plastic. Hopefully it will make a difference. None of the Telrads have the pivoting dew-shield apparently. While the manufacturer states that the solution won't harm optics, I don't want to try it on the large finderscopes. If the dewcaps are working, there's no reason anyway. Good report, Kurt, thanks. Was the neighbor's dog behaving itself? On 5/7/07, Kurt Fisher <fisherka@csolutions.net> wrote: Fogging on the Telrad, but not other finders was a problem.
You can pop into any SCUBA shop and buy some anti-fog spray that won't harm the finest plastic or glass. Of course spit works fine too. Quoting Chuck Hards <chuck.hards@gmail.com>:
I have a silcone-based anti-fogging solution meant for safety glasses that works rather well. I'll talk to Bruce about testing it on the SPOC Telrads and if he gives the go-ahead, I'll apply it. The Telrad optics are just acryllic plastic. Hopefully it will make a difference. None of the Telrads have the pivoting dew-shield apparently.
While the manufacturer states that the solution won't harm optics, I don't want to try it on the large finderscopes. If the dewcaps are working, there's no reason anyway.
Good report, Kurt, thanks. Was the neighbor's dog behaving itself?
On 5/7/07, Kurt Fisher <fisherka@csolutions.net> wrote:
Fogging on the Telrad, but not other finders was a problem. _______________________________________________ Utah-Astronomy mailing list Utah-Astronomy@mailman.xmission.com http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/utah-astronomy Visit the Photo Gallery: http://www.utahastronomy.com
You can also use the anti fox treatment they put on your car winshield at jiffy lube. That stuff works really good. Bob Bob Moore Commerce CRG - Salt Lake City office 175 East 400 South, Suite 700 Salt Lake City, Utah 84111 Direct: 801-303-5418 Main: 801-322-2000 Fax: 801-322-2040 BMoore@commercecrg.com www.commercecrg.com -----Original Message----- From: utah-astronomy-bounces+bmoore=commercecrg.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:utah-astronomy-bounces+bmoore=commercecrg.com@mailman.xmission.c om] On Behalf Of diveboss@xmission.com Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 12:50 PM To: utah-astronomy@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: [Utah-astronomy] Obs Notes - 5/6-7 SPOC Ealing You can pop into any SCUBA shop and buy some anti-fog spray that won't harm the finest plastic or glass. Of course spit works fine too. Quoting Chuck Hards <chuck.hards@gmail.com>:
I have a silcone-based anti-fogging solution meant for safety glasses that works rather well. I'll talk to Bruce about testing it on the SPOC Telrads and if he gives the go-ahead, I'll apply it. The Telrad optics are just acryllic plastic. Hopefully it will make a difference. None of the Telrads have the pivoting dew-shield apparently.
While the manufacturer states that the solution won't harm optics, I don't want to try it on the large finderscopes. If the dewcaps are working, there's no reason anyway.
Good report, Kurt, thanks. Was the neighbor's dog behaving itself?
On 5/7/07, Kurt Fisher <fisherka@csolutions.net> wrote:
Fogging on the Telrad, but not other finders was a problem. _______________________________________________ Utah-Astronomy mailing list Utah-Astronomy@mailman.xmission.com http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/utah-astronomy Visit the Photo Gallery: http://www.utahastronomy.com
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Just be sure you clear it with Bruce before putting ANYTHING on SPOC optics. Better yet, give it to Bruce and let HIM apply it. I'm sure he has his own spit. ;o) On 5/7/07, diveboss@xmission.com <diveboss@xmission.com> wrote:
You can pop into any SCUBA shop and buy some anti-fog spray that won't harm the finest plastic or glass. Of course spit works fine too.
My outermost lens is pretty dusty on my SCT 12". (Sorry, I can't remember what it's called -- is it a corrector plate?) Would it harm my telescope to gently dust it off with a specialty cloth used for computer screens? Any suggestions? Many thanks, Joe
You should probably use some of that compressed air they sell at camera stores to gently blow the dust off first. The finish of the corrector plate is critical to the overall view through your scope. With rifle scopes, we use compressed air first, and then move to a liquid cleaner to "float" the remaining debris away from the lense. I would think that is what you would need to do to your 12" Meade. Quoting Joe Bauman <bau@desnews.com>:
My outermost lens is pretty dusty on my SCT 12". (Sorry, I can't remember what it's called -- is it a corrector plate?) Would it harm my telescope to gently dust it off with a specialty cloth used for computer screens? Any suggestions? Many thanks, Joe
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I would avoid compressed air since the cans contain a slight amount of fluid that can damage coatings the following is from my previous link: USING COMPRESSED AIR: DON'T. Period. Dusting is easy, although it may take a little more time, and it is more effective. I have found that compressed air is virtually worthless for attempting to gently remove embedded particles on a glass surface and the chances of the liquid propellants within the can being expelled in liquid droplets against the glass is quite great. -----Original Message----- From: utah-astronomy-bounces+djcolton=piol.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:utah-astronomy-bounces+djcolton=piol.com@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of diveboss@xmission.com Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 1:27 PM To: utah-astronomy@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: [Utah-astronomy] dirty lens You should probably use some of that compressed air they sell at camera stores to gently blow the dust off first. The finish of the corrector plate is critical to the overall view through your scope. With rifle scopes, we use compressed air first, and then move to a liquid cleaner to "float" the remaining debris away from the lense. I would think that is what you would need to do to your 12" Meade. Quoting Joe Bauman <bau@desnews.com>:
My outermost lens is pretty dusty on my SCT 12". (Sorry, I can't remember what it's called -- is it a corrector plate?) Would it harm my telescope to gently dust it off with a specialty cloth used for computer screens? Any suggestions? Many thanks, Joe
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Don's right, a blast of air is only good for removing loose dust. Once the optic has been exposed to any humidity, the dust must be loosened with liquid. I stopped buying canned air two decades ago. Bought a 5-horsepower compressor, stuck it in my garage, ran a line down to my basement workshop so I can use various airbrushes, sprayers, and pneumatic tools. Installed a filter to remove oil and particulate contaminants and a dryer to remove water vapor, followed by a secondary filter. In this instance, the only thing I have to watch out for is too much pressure when dusting-off alumnized surfaces- at 120 psi there is a real chance that the coating could be blown right off the glass, if it had adhesion problems to begin with...I use a regulator as well.* * On 5/7/07, Don J. Colton <djcolton@piol.com> wrote:
I would avoid compressed air since the cans contain a slight amount of fluid that can damage coatings the following is from my previous link:
An artist friend of mine uses bottled nitrogen instead of a compressor for all of his airbrush work - no moisture problems, no filters necessary. For occasionally dusting off optics, this may not be practical, but if one is considering a compressor, do as Chuck did and install the appropriate filters. -----Original Message----- From: utah-astronomy-bounces+kimharch=cut.net@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:utah-astronomy-bounces+kimharch=cut.net@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Hards Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 9:32 PM To: Utah Astronomy Subject: Re: [Utah-astronomy] dirty lens Don's right, a blast of air is only good for removing loose dust. Once the optic has been exposed to any humidity, the dust must be loosened with liquid. I stopped buying canned air two decades ago. Bought a 5-horsepower compressor, stuck it in my garage, ran a line down to my basement workshop so I can use various airbrushes, sprayers, and pneumatic tools. Installed a filter to remove oil and particulate contaminants and a dryer to remove water vapor, followed by a secondary filter. In this instance, the only thing I have to watch out for is too much pressure when dusting-off alumnized surfaces- at 120 psi there is a real chance that the coating could be blown right off the glass, if it had adhesion problems to begin with...I use a regulator as well.* * On 5/7/07, Don J. Colton <djcolton@piol.com> wrote:
I would avoid compressed air since the cans contain a slight amount of fluid that can damage coatings the following is from my previous link:
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What about compressed air with cloth stretched across the nozzle to capture any moisture? Or is that a dumb idea? -- Joe
An artist friend of mine uses bottled nitrogen instead of a compressor for all of his airbrush work - no moisture problems, no filters necessary. For occasionally dusting off optics, this may not be practical, but if one is considering a compressor, do as Chuck did and install the appropriate filters.
-----Original Message----- From: utah-astronomy-bounces+kimharch=cut.net@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:utah-astronomy-bounces+kimharch=cut.net@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Hards Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 9:32 PM To: Utah Astronomy Subject: Re: [Utah-astronomy] dirty lens
Don's right, a blast of air is only good for removing loose dust. Once the optic has been exposed to any humidity, the dust must be loosened with liquid.
I stopped buying canned air two decades ago. Bought a 5-horsepower compressor, stuck it in my garage, ran a line down to my basement workshop so I can use various airbrushes, sprayers, and pneumatic tools. Installed a filter to remove oil and particulate contaminants and a dryer to remove water vapor, followed by a secondary filter. In this instance, the only thing I have to watch out for is too much pressure when dusting-off alumnized surfaces- at 120 psi there is a real chance that the coating could be blown right off the glass, if it had adhesion problems to begin with...I use a regulator as well.* * On 5/7/07, Don J. Colton <djcolton@piol.com> wrote:
I would avoid compressed air since the cans contain a slight amount of fluid that can damage coatings the following is from my previous link:
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Excellent idea if your needs are relatively small, and you live close to a compressed-gas supplier. Since I use a lot of pnuematic tools with high volume and pressure demands, in addition to the airbrushes, compressed nitrogen is not an option for me. On 5/7/07, Kim <kimharch@cut.net> wrote:
An artist friend of mine uses bottled nitrogen instead of a compressor for all of his airbrush work - no moisture problems, no filters necessary. For occasionally dusting off optics, this may not be practical, but if one is considering a compressor, do as Chuck did and install the appropriate filters.
We should all remember the difference between the very delicate coatings deposited onto a primary mirror, and the much tougher surfaces of eyepieces and corrector lenses. While care should always be taken, what Joe is cleaning is more akin to his eyeglasses than to the primary mirror. Blowing grit off is fine, and you never want to rub grit around on any glass surface, but for the corrector lens, there is no need to be quite so careful. Quoting Chuck Hards <chuck.hards@gmail.com>:
Excellent idea if your needs are relatively small, and you live close to a compressed-gas supplier. Since I use a lot of pnuematic tools with high volume and pressure demands, in addition to the airbrushes, compressed nitrogen is not an option for me.
On 5/7/07, Kim <kimharch@cut.net> wrote:
An artist friend of mine uses bottled nitrogen instead of a compressor for all of his airbrush work - no moisture problems, no filters necessary. For occasionally dusting off optics, this may not be practical, but if one is considering a compressor, do as Chuck did and install the appropriate filters.
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I never use compressed air in any form for optical devices - camera lenses, binoculars, eyepieces, etc. The compressed air can force dust and dirt particles into crevices and places where it shouldn't, and otherwise might not be able to go. I do use a small compressor for artwork and model painting, but I've never used it for cleaning optics or other sensitive equipment, like computers. For my 8" SCT, I commandeered one of my wife's unused (unused is important!) makeup brushes with which I very LIGHTLY sweep dust off the surface. Only when I'm confident that I've removed all of the grit, I then follow with a bit of lens cleaning solution and a lens cloth or lens tissue. I never scrub the surface but only lightly remove fingerprints or other smudges with the dampened cloth. I usually just use the same solution that I use for my eyeglasses, which I buy from Costco. I may do this once or twice a year, depending on use. I keep my brush in two Ziploc bags, one inside the other, to keep it from getting dirty. I admit to also having used the makeup brush on my Newtonian optics, but only one or twice in perhaps ten years. When I do that, I BARELY touch the surface with the brush, because I know that even the relatively soft hairs of a makeup brush or a lens brush can scratch the aluminum coating or drag particles across the surface that can also scratch. Chuck, I'm very envious of your shop and shop skills. I worked in an automotive shop for several years, and I miss the pneumatic tools. Kim -----Original Message----- From: utah-astronomy-bounces+kimharch=cut.net@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:utah-astronomy-bounces+kimharch=cut.net@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Josephine Grahn Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2007 12:34 PM To: utah-astronomy@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: [Utah-astronomy] dirty lens We should all remember the difference between the very delicate coatings deposited onto a primary mirror, and the much tougher surfaces of eyepieces and corrector lenses. While care should always be taken, what Joe is cleaning is more akin to his eyeglasses than to the primary mirror. Blowing grit off is fine, and you never want to rub grit around on any glass surface, but for the corrector lens, there is no need to be quite so careful.
And here I must confess that in practice, I use the low-tech approach. I have a "puffer brush", that is, a squeeze bulb with a camel-hair dusting brush at the nozzle. You puff and brush simultaneously to remove dust. On both evaporated-metal coatings and non-reflective lenses. Haven't scratched a mirror yet with that one. I only use supersonic compressed-air blasts when cleaning other people's dirty optics. *;o)* Thanks, Jo On 5/8/07, Josephine Grahn <bsi@xmission.com> wrote:
We should all remember the difference between the very delicate coatings deposited onto a primary mirror, and the much tougher surfaces of eyepieces and corrector lenses. While care should always be taken, what Joe is cleaning is more akin to his eyeglasses than to the primary mirror. Blowing grit off is fine, and you never want to rub grit around on any glass surface, but for the corrector lens, there is no need to be quite so careful.
Quoting Chuck Hards <chuck.hards@gmail.com>:
Excellent idea if your needs are relatively small, and you live close to a compressed-gas supplier. Since I use a lot of pnuematic tools with high volume and pressure demands, in addition to the airbrushes, compressed nitrogen is not an option for me.
On 5/7/07, Kim <kimharch@cut.net> wrote:
An artist friend of mine uses bottled nitrogen instead of a compressor
for
all of his airbrush work - no moisture problems, no filters necessary. For occasionally dusting off optics, this may not be practical, but if one is considering a compressor, do as Chuck did and install the appropriate filters.
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I just want to thank all who replied to my question -- I've had some truly great answers. Best wishes, Joe
If your going to actually wipe the lens at least use one of the cloths made for wiping camera lenses. They are going to be the nicest to your lens Bob Moore Commerce CRG - Salt Lake City office 175 East 400 South, Suite 700 Salt Lake City, Utah 84111 Direct: 801-303-5418 Main: 801-322-2000 Fax: 801-322-2040 BMoore@commercecrg.com www.commercecrg.com -----Original Message----- From: utah-astronomy-bounces+bmoore=commercecrg.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:utah-astronomy-bounces+bmoore=commercecrg.com@mailman.xmission.c om] On Behalf Of diveboss@xmission.com Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 1:27 PM To: utah-astronomy@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: [Utah-astronomy] dirty lens You should probably use some of that compressed air they sell at camera stores to gently blow the dust off first. The finish of the corrector plate is critical to the overall view through your scope. With rifle scopes, we use compressed air first, and then move to a liquid cleaner to "float" the remaining debris away from the lense. I would think that is what you would need to do to your 12" Meade. Quoting Joe Bauman <bau@desnews.com>:
My outermost lens is pretty dusty on my SCT 12". (Sorry, I can't remember what it's called -- is it a corrector plate?) Would it harm my telescope to gently dust it off with a specialty cloth used for computer screens? Any suggestions? Many thanks, Joe
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Joe I wouldn't touch it with the cloth. I would use a blower bulb to blow dust off. If that doesn't clean it well enough see http://www.optcorp.com/pdf/ASOCleaningGuide.pdf As they note: cleaning coated optical surfaces is the single most damaging action that will be done to them, short of actual physical damage or breakage. No matter how careful, how delicate, nor what cleaning solution is used.....every time cleaned will result in a microscopically-reduced optical performance than before cleaning. So only clean if absolutely necessary. If you don't want to make up your own solution you can buy the Arkansas Sky Observatory cleaning kit, Doc Clay's Cleaning Kit, at http://www.optcorp.com/product.aspx?pid=1952&kw=cleaning&st=2 -----Original Message----- From: utah-astronomy-bounces+djcolton=piol.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:utah-astronomy-bounces+djcolton=piol.com@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Bauman Sent: Monday, May 07, 2007 12:51 PM To: Utah Astronomy Subject: [Utah-astronomy] dirty lens My outermost lens is pretty dusty on my SCT 12". (Sorry, I can't remember what it's called -- is it a corrector plate?) Would it harm my telescope to gently dust it off with a specialty cloth used for computer screens? Any suggestions? Many thanks, Joe _______________________________________________ Utah-Astronomy mailing list Utah-Astronomy@mailman.xmission.com http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/utah-astronomy Visit the Photo Gallery: http://www.utahastronomy.com
Thanks to Don and Guy! I'll look for some of the compressed air. That sounds like a good idea. It's not hideously dirty, but I was startled when I looked at it during the daylight. I haven't tried to clean it with a cloth, and thanks for heading me off. Best wishes, Joe
Joe Use dust off, 1st vent the nozzle of any possible propellant, then w/ a computer screen type cleaning cloth apply some 'lens cleaner' and gently wipe smudges, finger prints, etc. off. Or clean w/ dust off, soak some surgical gauze in home made cleaning solution, drag the opened gauze over the corrector, discard, do it over again till free of debris. We did the gauze technique on the mirror of a 16" RCOS that was coated in mold. We did remove the mirror from the scope and wash it 1st in a laundry sink w/ warm water and GlassPlus as suggested by the manufacturer. Bottom line, be gentle and you really don't need crystal clean optics. Have fun Rob
Mahalo, this makes a great deal of sense to me. -- Can't wait to start the season of astrophography. I am trying another tack this time. A guide scope proved just too darn heavy for my optics, so now I'll be using an off-axis guider. I got a Lumicon Giant Easy-Guider and it looks really good. I will use my Meade deep space imager as a guider, and my SBIG as the imager. What I should have done, of course, is buy the SBIG version that has two chips, one for guidance and the other for imaging. But I was cheap and I have paid for that through months of struggle. Here's hoping it works. Yokwe yuk, Joe
"Dust off"! That's the stuff and the technique... Thanks Rob! Quoting Rob Ratkowski Photography <ratkwski@hawaii.rr.com>:
Joe
Use dust off, 1st vent the nozzle of any possible propellant, then w/ a computer screen type cleaning cloth apply some 'lens cleaner' and gently wipe smudges, finger prints, etc. off. Or clean w/ dust off, soak some surgical gauze in home made cleaning solution, drag the opened gauze over the corrector, discard, do it over again till free of debris. We did the gauze technique on the mirror of a 16" RCOS that was coated in mold. We did remove the mirror from the scope and wash it 1st in a laundry sink w/ warm water and GlassPlus as suggested by the manufacturer. Bottom line, be gentle and you really don't need crystal clean optics.
Have fun Rob
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participants (9)
-
Bob Moore -
Chuck Hards -
diveboss＠xmission.com -
Don J. Colton -
Joe Bauman -
Josephine Grahn -
Kim -
Kurt Fisher -
Rob Ratkowski Photography