Fwd: Rigel and companion
Chuck, How do you make an apodizing mask? Debbie --- In digital_astro@yahoogroups.com, Ginger Mayfield <chikadee@e...> wrote: After having pretty pitiful results with my Mars imaging tonight I did a little viewing of the Moon, still poor seeing, so waited a little longer. Decided to try Rigel and companion just for the fun of it. I got a lucky shot of it with my C-2100 right after I first got it so this time I wanted to try the D60. Didn't know what settings to use and so tried a lot of different ones. At first I wasn't getting the companion at all but finally started to see it at around 1 sec but it wasn't truly split. Decided to use the apodizing mask to see if I could get a split and sure enough, that worked. So here is the result. Rainbow colors are from the mask. Hey, they're psychedelic. Well, what did you expect, I'm an old hippie! ;-) D60 with Denkmeier OCS through a 14.5" Starmaster tracking Dob Homemade apodizing mask in place Single 1 sec exposure, 200 ISO No processing except cropping Doubles are really fun! Now I know I need a Powermate! http://velatron.com/dca/ginger/rigel101203.jpg Ginger --- End forwarded message ---
Hi Debbie: Get a piece of black posterboard. Using a compass, draw a circle the same diameter as the aperture of the scope you want the mask for. Now inscribe inside the circle a hexagon that has it's tips touching the circle. In other words the hexagon fits entirely within the circle. Cut out the hexagon with a metal straight-edge and an X-acto knife or similar. Leave about 2" or 3" of posterboard around the hole after you're done, the outer perimeter doesn't have to be precisely cut. Now make a ring of posterboard that goes around the outside of the tube or dewcap, about 2 inches wide. A loose, sliding fit is fine. Holding the mask ceneterd on the front of the scope, slide the ring up against the back of the mask and tape the two together. Use tape every few inches around the entire circumference so the two won't come apart. You will now noitce six diffraction spikes around bright objects. These spikes are draining energy from the central spot and spreading it out away radially. Because they "channel" the energy, there are now dark areas closer to the central spot, that were swamped with light before using the mask. This is the principal that sometimes allows dim, close secondaries to be detected visually. Does this help? C. --- Debbie <utahdeb@aol.com> wrote:
Chuck,
How do you make an apodizing mask?
Debbie
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