I'm new to the list and am courting the purchase of an M15. I'll have to tow it a long way to my home and would like to replace the wheel bearings before I hit the highway. Does anyone know the part numbers for the inner and outer races and bearings? How do I make sure I get the right ones from the auto parts house? Thanks a ton.
I think the best way to know for sure is to take the old parts in since there were several trailer manufacturers over the years. I've done this little job, and it's not too hard. You might install bearing buddies if they aren't already there. t Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle M17 #496 -- dharma bum
I plan to replace the bunks on the bum's trailer this week. Recommendations on species? I've used cedar in the past, but clear cedar in the correct dimension is very pricy. I'm thinking Doug fir. Any thoughts? t Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle M17 #496 -- dharma bum
Why clear? Tight knot 2 or better should do... Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <tsmith@nextit.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 10:19 AM Subject: RE: M_Boats: Wood for bunks I plan to replace the bunks on the bum's trailer this week. Recommendations on species? I've used cedar in the past, but clear cedar in the correct dimension is very pricy. I'm thinking Doug fir. Any thoughts? t Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle M17 #496 -- dharma bum _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
I just used decent-looking pressure-treated 2x6's. Might be Douglas Fir; not sure. Then a few layers of sill insulation and the carpeting. So far so good. Tod M17 #408 BuscaBrisas -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com ] On Behalf Of Steve & Diana Parsons Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 9:35 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Wood for bunks Why clear? Tight knot 2 or better should do... Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <tsmith@nextit.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2006 10:19 AM Subject: RE: M_Boats: Wood for bunks I plan to replace the bunks on the bum's trailer this week. Recommendations on species? I've used cedar in the past, but clear cedar in the correct dimension is very pricy. I'm thinking Doug fir. Any thoughts? t Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle M17 #496 -- dharma bum _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
I used pressure treated lumber from the home store. Chose wet pieces for easier bending. Inexpensive and readily available and, IMHO, likely to last significantly longer than plain fir. Redwood or cedar are mighty spendy for something that's gonna get covered with carpet. My 2 cents... Cheers, George George Burmeyer "Haiku" 1986 M15 #385 Santa Rosa, CA On Oct 3, 2006, at 10:19 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
I plan to replace the bunks on the bum's trailer this week. Recommendations on species? I've used cedar in the past, but clear cedar in the correct dimension is very pricy. I'm thinking Doug fir. Any thoughts? t
Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle M17 #496 -- dharma bum
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
My bunks are pressure treated lumber, and that's what I would go back with. Watch out for big knots in the middle where the bend is the greatest. A big knot won't survive the bend. It will snap. If you can't find decent stuff at the big box store, go to a local lumber yard. Most will let you pick through a whole pile to find what you want. If you can't find good 8 footers, look at longer lengths (12, 14 or 16 footers) and you will be able to find lengths of shorter clear pieces that will be long enough for this use. Generally, quality goes up with length. To avoid plain sawn lumber, a really anal retentive person might even select 2 x 12's and rip clear quarter sawn off the sides, leaving the pithy stiff in the middle laying on the ground. Not me of course. Well maybe me. On Oct 3, 2006, at 10:26 PM, George Burmeyer wrote:
I used pressure treated lumber from the home store. Chose wet pieces for easier bending. Inexpensive and readily available and, IMHO, likely to last significantly longer than plain fir. Redwood or cedar are mighty spendy for something that's gonna get covered with carpet. My 2 cents...
Cheers, George
George Burmeyer "Haiku" 1986 M15 #385 Santa Rosa, CA
On Oct 3, 2006, at 10:19 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
I plan to replace the bunks on the bum's trailer this week. Recommendations on species? I've used cedar in the past, but clear cedar in the correct dimension is very pricy. I'm thinking Doug fir. Any thoughts? t
Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle M17 #496 -- dharma bum
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
I am going to pick up my '75 M-17 this weekend or next. I owe a few folks a report on the new trailer I am picking up in Bal'more on the way, so stand by. I would like to make a mast crutch/support for the back of the boat such as I have seen on the MSOG site. It looks as though these have been made by attaching boards (2x4's) to pintles. Can you tell me what to get in terms of pintles? Are there different diameters and lengths that I will need to know when ordering or picking up at a store? Thanks in advance! Robbin PS I will try and put some pics together regarding the new (to me) boat. PSS A couple months ago when I was asking for advice evaluating this boat I had an MSOG'er close to Leesburg VA send me a message to give him a call, which was lost when my old laptop imploded. If you might try again responding off the list I would appreciate it!
These should be 1/2" pintles. The length is not critical but it's easier if they are a long and a short. Jerry jerrymontgomery.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robbin Roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2006 5:46 PM Subject: M_Boats: Pintles for M-17
I am going to pick up my '75 M-17 this weekend or next. I owe a few folks a report on the new trailer I am picking up in Bal'more on the way, so stand by. I would like to make a mast crutch/support for the back of the boat such as I have seen on the MSOG site. It looks as though these have been made by attaching boards (2x4's) to pintles. Can you tell me what to get in terms of pintles? Are there different diameters and lengths that I will need to know when ordering or picking up at a store? Thanks in advance!
Robbin
PS I will try and put some pics together regarding the new (to me) boat. PSS A couple months ago when I was asking for advice evaluating this boat I had an MSOG'er close to Leesburg VA send me a message to give him a call, which was lost when my old laptop imploded. If you might try again responding off the list I would appreciate it!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Tom: Around here pressure treated lumber in my experience is inferior stuff structurally--knots and such--and the treatment isn't needed in this application where the wood is not in contact with the soil or even wet very much. Clear lumber would be best strength-wise, but tight knot structural stuff would be good. Check with Jim Scourey (sp?) at 10th St. Lumber in St. Maries, ID. He knows his stuff and will give good advice. --Gary Hyde Pullman, WA gmhyde1@mac.com M17 #637 'Hydeaway 2' "...There's nothing quite like messing about in boats..." On Oct 3, 2006, at 10:19 AM, Tom Smith wrote:
I plan to replace the bunks on the bum's trailer this week. Recommendations on species? I've used cedar in the past, but clear cedar in the correct dimension is very pricy. I'm thinking Doug fir. Any thoughts? t
Tom Smith & Jane Van Winkle M17 #496 -- dharma bum
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Jason, My wife and I traveled several hundred miles to tow home our M17. Our first stop, after leaving the brokers lot, was a local tire store. In our case the bearings & tires were old and neglected. We had a new set of tires put on, bought a rim to make a spare, and had the wheel bearings inspected and re-packed. We wanted to replace the wheel bearings and seals and keep the old ones as spares but caught the tire shop too late in the day (they didn't have our size in stock). We were happy to have all this done, and considered it cheap insurance. Tom is right. If you have the number off the bearings you should be able to find them at most any auto parts store, and they are relatively cheap! And don't forget to replace the seals. Randy G. M17 #410 ________________________________ From: montgomery_boats-bounces+randyg=cite.nic.edu@mailman.xmission.com on behalf of Jason A. Smith Sent: Mon 10/2/2006 10:49 AM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Wheel bearing part numbers? I'm new to the list and am courting the purchase of an M15. I'll have to tow it a long way to my home and would like to replace the wheel bearings before I hit the highway. Does anyone know the part numbers for the inner and outer races and bearings? How do I make sure I get the right ones from the auto parts house? Thanks a ton. _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
participants (10)
-
Gary M Hyde -
George Burmeyer -
Howard Audsley -
htmills＠bright.net -
Jason A. Smith -
jerry -
RandyG -
Robbin Roddewig -
Steve & Diana Parsons -
Tom Smith