Hi, I solved the problem by removing the static mount and installing ( as I intended from first acquiring the M15 ) the kind which permits you to raise the motor before tipping it to lock clear of the water. I filled the old transom holes using bolts and nuts. I also made a 2 inch thick spacer from several thicknesses of plastic cutting boards from the dollar store and then bolted the new motor mount through the plastic spacer and the transom.I solved the problem of affixing the nuts inside by borrowing a small boy from a neighbour. His dad and I trained him outside the boat on how to put large backing washers and nuts on the bolts,then gave him the washers and bolts in a container, the appropriate wrench and a flash light. We tied a " life line "around his ankle and off he went into the boat and in no time he had inched his way on his belly to the back of the boat. All he had to do was put a washer and a nut on each bolt, then hold the nut with the wrench while I turned the bolts tight from outside the boat. The boy's dad and I kept talking to the lad during the whole operation and he showed no fear, did a great job and regarded the 15 minute operation as an adventure which he could have, but which no adult could duplicate because of size. Of course he received a few dollars as well as bragging rights. The static motor mount is now fastened to the wall in my basement and is the ideal place to winter store my Honda 2.3 long shaft O/B. My solution might not be ideal in your circumstance, but it worked for me twice.The second application of the small boy technique made possible installation of a swim ladder on the starboard portion of the transom . Good luck. RTH. -----Original Message----- From: jerry@jerrymontgomery.org Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2015 7:56 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Honda 2.3 tilt on an M15? Charlie- Why don't you put 2" spacers between the mount and the transom?- you'll need longer bolts and maybe have to install an inspection plate to get at the nuts, but it shsould work fine. Jerry -----Original Message----- From: Charlie Fortner Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2015 2:41 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Honda 2.3 tilt on an M15? Hello wrinkle boat lovers, I have a late '80s M-15 with the fixed motor mount and I've just purchased a Honda 2.3 hp to go with it. How the heck do you get this motor to tilt into the up and locked position? I've twisted the thing every which way and it always hits the transom before it locks. It'll tilt all the way up if I remove the motor's cowling, but that's a ridiculous thing to do on the water. The old Tohatsu 3.5 would clear the transom and tilt up if I used a spacer on the motor mount, but that won't work on the Honda because its jaws are narrower. It looks like all I really need is some way to move the motor's horizontal pivot point aft about 2 inches. I know lots of you love the M-15 & Honda 2.3 combo, so I'm sure my problem is not unique. I've searched the archives, but there wasn't much in the way of solutions to this problem. How have y'all gotten your motors up and out of the water? Better yet, have some photos of the solution? Thanks, Charlie -- Charlie Fortner Earth, USA, Georgia, ATL M-15 #411

starboard or teak will do well. depends on what you can find in your location. obviously starboard will be no maintenance. finding either in 2" depth will be a challenge. if you have problem sourcing let me know. i have starboard (in 'mocha' brown that looks kinda like teak from a distance) and teak in 1" thickness. -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com On Mon, Jun 1, 2015 at 8:41 AM, Charlie Fortner <charlie@rentrof.net> wrote:

On Sat, May 23, 2015, at 19:56, jerry@jerrymontgomery.org wrote:

...

Why don't you put 2" spacers between the mount and the transom?-

After looking things over this weekend I think this is exactly what I'll do. My port locker pan has been cut, so I can get my hand back there without having to install an inspection port.

What do y'all recommend I use for the spacers: StarBoard, G10, square aluminum tubing, something else? Do I need to use any sealants and/or adhesives?

Thanks much,

Charlie

-- Charlie Fortner Earth, USA, Georgia, ATL M-15 #411

great job Charlie! on my old M15 i needed to turn my Honda 2hp to the side for it to tilt up on the modified fixed mount. -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com On Wed, Jul 1, 2015 at 10:14 AM, Charlie Fortner <charlie@rentrof.net> wrote:

On Sat, May 23, 2015, at 19:56, jerry@jerrymontgomery.org wrote:

...

Charlie- Why don't you put 2" spacers between the mount and the transom?-

Wise advise! And not terribly difficult. My port cockpit locker pan had been cut, so I didn't need to install an inspection port to reach the mounting nuts.

I used 2" thick HDPE I bought from McMaster-Carr. (See the first attached photo.) The spacers ended up being 2" thick, about 3" wide, and about 11" long. Bolts were 4" long 1/4 x 20, but I could have used 3.5" long bolts. You'll need a 7/16" box end wrench, the longer the better. The HDPE was easy to shape with handtools. It was like cutting a block of cold lard.

The second attached photo shows that this was only 99% successful. The motor will now tilt and lock, but only if it is twisted to the side a bit. Not perfect, but a huge improvement over not locking in the up position at all. The problem is the gas tank cap. If the cap were a little shorter it would clear the transom without having to twist the motor to the side.

Charlie

On Wed, Jul 1, 2015, at 14:05, George Iemmolo wrote:

Will it work if you rotate the motor 180 deg?

I'm not sure and the boat is an hour away so I can't check right now. My gut instinct is that it won't work since the rear of the motor is farther from the horizontal pivot. However, just twisting it a few degrees to the left or right allows it to tilt up and lock.

as stated you need to make modifications to fit the fixed M15 motor mounts work with the 4-cycle power heads (the old 2-cycle power heads are smaller). couple of pictures attached of my old M15 showing the outboard mount created by a prior owner. -- :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com On Sun, May 24, 2015 at 7:57 AM, Mike Z <speedernut2@gmail.com> wrote:

Charlie,

A couple of us have used a wood spacer on the back / rear of the motor mounting surface.

My older Honda was good with a 3/4 ply board. Varnished and double sticky tape to the mount. The fiberglass mount still carries the weight, the board just spaces the engine back a tad.

Just picked up a new model Honda. They have a larger cowl and it could use a tad more, but it looks like what I have will work ok until I get one of those round tuit things.

Easy to experiment.

Monty 15 Mike

-----Original Message-----

From: Charlie Fortner

Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2015 5:41 PM

Hello wrinkle boat lovers,

I have a late '80s M-15 with the fixed motor mount and I've just purchased a Honda 2.3 hp to go with it.

How the heck do you get this motor to tilt into the up and locked position? I've twisted the thing every which way and it always hits the transom before it locks. It'll tilt all the way up if I remove the motor's cowling, but that's a ridiculous thing to do on the water.

The old Tohatsu 3.5 would clear the transom and tilt up if I used a spacer on the motor mount, but that won't work on the Honda because its jaws are narrower. It looks like all I really need is some way to move the motor's horizontal pivot point aft about 2 inches.

I know lots of you love the M-15 & Honda 2.3 combo, so I'm sure my problem is not unique. I've searched the archives, but there wasn't much in the way of solutions to this problem. How have y'all gotten your motors up and out of the water? Better yet, have some photos of the solution?

Thanks,

Charlie

-- Charlie Fortner Earth, USA, Georgia, ATL M-15 #411