During the long winter evenings I have been thinking about modifying my M-17 standard rig to lead both halyards and a reefing line to sheetstoppers (main halyard and reefing line to starboard, jib halyard to port) on the cabin near the cockpit, and being new both to the boat and to single-handing would appreciate any advice from old hands who have been there and done that. For example, the cabin dome light is right below the starboard base of the mast and seems to get in the way of mounting turning blocks, and there is very little space around the forward end of the teak trim beside the hatch for mounting cheek blocks to turn the lines toward the cockpit. I have also wondered if there are any tricks to changing headsails when single-handing to minimize the chances of water-testing my Type V PFD. Thanks in advance for any thoughts, Rick ************************************** See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004)
Hi Rick, I do not have a page on the M17 rigging (not until you do yours and send photos - lots of them!). However, John and Jana with Bella M15 have created a cross sheeting and were kind enough to send photos and the description. Check it out and see if you can use any of this info. http://www.msogphotosite.com/15belajib.html Bill Webmaster - www.MSOGPhotoSite.com <http://www.msogphotosite.com/> P.s. I see the JDavies on your E-mail address. I used to work with a Jon Davies at AAMCO in Santa Clara, California some 20 plus years ago. Used to call him JD. Could not be so small a world? On Dec 28, 2007 12:36 PM, <JDavies104@aol.com> wrote:
During the long winter evenings I have been thinking about modifying my M-17 standard rig to lead both halyards and a reefing line to sheetstoppers (main halyard and reefing line to starboard, jib halyard to port) on the cabin near the cockpit, and being new both to the boat and to single-handing would appreciate any advice from old hands who have been there and done that. For example, the cabin dome light is right below the starboard base of the mast and seems to get in the way of mounting turning blocks, and there is very little space around the forward end of the teak trim beside the hatch for mounting cheek blocks to turn the lines toward the cockpit.
I have also wondered if there are any tricks to changing headsails when single-handing to minimize the chances of water-testing my Type V PFD.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts,
Rick
************************************** See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Rick, Does the M17 have a halyard organizer plate under the mast? http://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=19&f... You can attach the lead blocks to the plate and mount the actual fairleads in front of the sheet stoppers - No holes near the light :-) Doug Kelch JDavies104@aol.com wrote: During the long winter evenings I have been thinking about modifying my M-17 standard rig to lead both halyards and a reefing line to sheetstoppers (main halyard and reefing line to starboard, jib halyard to port) on the cabin near the cockpit, and being new both to the boat and to single-handing would appreciate any advice from old hands who have been there and done that. For example, the cabin dome light is right below the starboard base of the mast and seems to get in the way of mounting turning blocks, and there is very little space around the forward end of the teak trim beside the hatch for mounting cheek blocks to turn the lines toward the cockpit. I have also wondered if there are any tricks to changing headsails when single-handing to minimize the chances of water-testing my Type V PFD. Thanks in advance for any thoughts, Rick ************************************** See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
That's a good suggestion Doug. With a boltrope main, I regularly have to feed the sail and haul simultaneously, so the mainsail halyard running to the cockpit would be problematic for me (although the sail comes down easier than it goes up). Of course the easiest head sail management approach is roller furling. Usually no fuss or muss whatsoever with all associated controls led aft. Using the traditional hanked on arrangement, certainly lead the headsail halyard aft. A servicable solution under conditions where you are compelled to shorten sail is a reef point in the headsail. You can at least reduce the sail quickly to make the boat more managable if you're caught with too much up. You will have to juggle a new sheeting arrangement at the reef clew which will require a short, fast outing forward. I know this will work with a working jib, but I'm not sure if it works on a larger genoa. Somebody will know. This setup will require a bit of rigging similar to that used for a jib downhaul and the ability to easily change the sheet position. And of course a jib downhaul is essential. At least you can get the sail all the way down until circumstances allow you to safely go forward. Outside those options, with a hanked on sail, I'm out of ideas. Others? t Tom & Jane M17 dharma bum
Rick, there is a good write up of leading lines aft at http://www.blumhorst.com/potterpages/linesrunaft.html . Although a different boat the concept is the same. I have put on the Dwyer plate organizer on my M-17 as the first step. Of course when I brought up the old mast step plate a good part of the outer gel coat came with it. It seemed that there might be some water intrusion below the plate. I put some west system epoxy to fix the outer layer of gel coat and also made the holes for the through bolts a bit wider, filled them with some more of the west system epoxy to seal the core of the cabin top drilled them out and got some longer bolts to put it all back. By the way, it took quite a bit to drill the holes through the Stainless line organizer plate from Dwyer; but this is an area I am ignorant of so I probably was doing it the hard way (as ever). Used up a few bits. The next step is the costly one where line clutches are required. I have other corrections/projects to do before buying the clutches. And then I figure roller furling as well. As near as I can tell, unless you are a supreme sailor like D Kelch (whom I have seen dancing about the fore deck while single handing and still under way) the approach for head sails is roller furling. Robbin JDavies104@aol.com wrote:
During the long winter evenings I have been thinking about modifying my M-17 standard rig to lead both halyards and a reefing line to sheetstoppers (main halyard and reefing line to starboard, jib halyard to port) on the cabin near the cockpit, and being new both to the boat and to single-handing would appreciate any advice from old hands who have been there and done that. For example, the cabin dome light is right below the starboard base of the mast and seems to get in the way of mounting turning blocks, and there is very little space around the forward end of the teak trim beside the hatch for mounting cheek blocks to turn the lines toward the cockpit.
I have also wondered if there are any tricks to changing headsails when single-handing to minimize the chances of water-testing my Type V PFD.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts,
Rick
************************************** See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
participants (5)
-
Bill Lamica -
Doug Kelch -
JDavies104@aol.com -
Robbin Roddewig -
Tom Smith