Cast iron centerboard treatments
Just dropped (well, not literally) my 180# cast iron centerboard. It is very rusty and one side is heavily eaten away. I have read all the very fine print on the Interlux cans of stuff I have. Still not sure how to proceed. I already have Interlux Watertite Epoxy filler and some Epoxy Primecoat left over from the deck. Also, on order, is the 2000E also from Interlux. The MSOG info states "...sandblasting, fairing rough areas with epoxy putty and then multiple coats of Interlux 2000E. After sandblasting I like to coat the entire board with epoxy before painting." Does that mean that it is preferable after sandblasting to just coat the entire board with epoxy? Epoxy after priming the cast iron with 2000E? Epoxy after priming the cast iron before fairing out the deep pitting in the cast iron?? First sandblasting, then epoxy filler, then priming with 2000E then epoxy the whole board before painting it??? I don't want to use the wrong order or the wrong stuff and have some layer slough off and take all the others with it. Also concerning the centerboard- the stop bolt which catches the board as it is lowered in my boat was just through bolted with the nut and bolt head left proud of the sides of the centerboard truck. Can I safely counter sink these into the centerboard trunk without punching through into the ballast compartment? The upper pivot bolt is well recessed at both ends. (and)Also I have in mind to install a couple of stainless steel tangs inside the centerboard slot. One end of each would be through bolted by the bolt that catches the centerboard as it is being lowered. The upper end of each tang, about 8 inches long would be through bolted by another 3/8 inch bolt higher up on the centerboard truck. The through bolt there would be placed outside the swing of the centerboard as it is lowered. This second bolt would in effect help alleviate all of the cleaving force of a "runaway centerboard" should its pennant fray or become disconnected from the board while it is being lowered and prevent the lower catch bolt from being smashed out of the bottom of the centerboard truck. It looks like there is enough clearance inside the cb truck slot to allow for a couple of eighth inch thick tangs. Here also the question arises concerning being able to counter sink the bolt into the sides of the centerboard trunk without punching into the ballast compartment. Any thoughts on this procedure? Thanks for your thoughts on these matters. Tom B Tom B, Mont.17 #258
Hi Tom, I followed the directions from Sean and others on my iron centerboard rehab. I had the board soda blasted and within 10 minutes coated it with 2000e. Took it home filled and faired and coated it many more times. It is holding up well. I cannot offer any advice on the bolt. Thanks Robbin On 9/7/2014 8:07 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Just dropped (well, not literally) my 180# cast iron centerboard. It is very rusty and one side is heavily eaten away. I have read all the very fine print on the Interlux cans of stuff I have. Still not sure how to proceed. I already have Interlux Watertite Epoxy filler and some Epoxy Primecoat left over from the deck. Also, on order, is the 2000E also from Interlux. The MSOG info states "...sandblasting, fairing rough areas with epoxy putty and then multiple coats of Interlux 2000E. After sandblasting I like to coat the entire board with epoxy before painting." Does that mean that it is preferable after sandblasting to just coat the entire board with epoxy? Epoxy after priming the cast iron with 2000E? Epoxy after priming the cast iron before fairing out the deep pitting in the cast iron?? First sandblasting, then epoxy filler, then priming with 2000E then epoxy the whole board before painting it???
I don't want to use the wrong order or the wrong stuff and have some layer slough off and take all the others with it.
Also concerning the centerboard- the stop bolt which catches the board as it is lowered in my boat was just through bolted with the nut and bolt head left proud of the sides of the centerboard truck. Can I safely counter sink these into the centerboard trunk without punching through into the ballast compartment? The upper pivot bolt is well recessed at both ends. (and)Also I have in mind to install a couple of stainless steel tangs inside the centerboard slot. One end of each would be through bolted by the bolt that catches the centerboard as it is being lowered. The upper end of each tang, about 8 inches long would be through bolted by another 3/8 inch bolt higher up on the centerboard truck. The through bolt there would be placed outside the swing of the centerboard as it is lowered. This second bolt would in effect help alleviate all of the cleaving force of a "runaway centerboard" should its pennant fray or become disconnected from the board while it is being lowered and prevent the lower catch bolt from being smashed out of the bottom of the centerboard truck. It looks like there is enough clearance inside the cb truck slot to allow for a couple of eighth inch thick tangs. Here also the question arises concerning being able to counter sink the bolt into the sides of the centerboard trunk without punching into the ballast compartment. Any thoughts on this procedure? Thanks for your thoughts on these matters. Tom B
Tom B, Mont.17 #258
HI Robbin, Thanks for the informtion! In your course of filling and fairing I suppose you used epoxy fillers and ended up finding out that everything stuck to everything. So I will do likewise and sandblast and immediately coat with the 2000 and proceed accordingly. I had a good time with time with chemistry in college but I am having to dust off a lot of stuff in dealing with these various coating materials. One side of my board looks almost perfect, the other has some deep cratering in it. Wonder if it came from the foundry like that. How could only one side of a submerged cast iron keel get so much more badly pitted?? Fair winds, Tom B On Mon, Sep 8, 2014 at 5:44 AM, Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
wrote:
Hi Tom, I followed the directions from Sean and others on my iron centerboard rehab. I had the board soda blasted and within 10 minutes coated it with 2000e. Took it home filled and faired and coated it many more times. It is holding up well. I cannot offer any advice on the bolt.
Thanks Robbin
On 9/7/2014 8:07 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Just dropped (well, not literally) my 180# cast iron centerboard. It is very rusty and one side is heavily eaten away. I have read all the very fine print on the Interlux cans of stuff I have. Still not sure how to proceed. I already have Interlux Watertite Epoxy filler and some Epoxy Primecoat left over from the deck. Also, on order, is the 2000E also from Interlux. The MSOG info states "...sandblasting, fairing rough areas with epoxy putty and then multiple coats of Interlux 2000E. After sandblasting I like to coat the entire board with epoxy before painting." Does that mean that it is preferable after sandblasting to just coat the entire board with epoxy? Epoxy after priming the cast iron with 2000E? Epoxy after priming the cast iron before fairing out the deep pitting in the cast iron?? First sandblasting, then epoxy filler, then priming with 2000E then epoxy the whole board before painting it???
I don't want to use the wrong order or the wrong stuff and have some layer slough off and take all the others with it.
Also concerning the centerboard- the stop bolt which catches the board as it is lowered in my boat was just through bolted with the nut and bolt head left proud of the sides of the centerboard truck. Can I safely counter sink these into the centerboard trunk without punching through into the ballast compartment? The upper pivot bolt is well recessed at both ends. (and)Also I have in mind to install a couple of stainless steel tangs inside the centerboard slot. One end of each would be through bolted by the bolt that catches the centerboard as it is being lowered. The upper end of each tang, about 8 inches long would be through bolted by another 3/8 inch bolt higher up on the centerboard truck. The through bolt there would be placed outside the swing of the centerboard as it is lowered. This second bolt would in effect help alleviate all of the cleaving force of a "runaway centerboard" should its pennant fray or become disconnected from the board while it is being lowered and prevent the lower catch bolt from being smashed out of the bottom of the centerboard truck. It looks like there is enough clearance inside the cb truck slot to allow for a couple of eighth inch thick tangs. Here also the question arises concerning being able to counter sink the bolt into the sides of the centerboard trunk without punching into the ballast compartment. Any thoughts on this procedure? Thanks for your thoughts on these matters. Tom B
Tom B, Mont.17 #258
Gang, Just a quick couple of things about finishing the cast iron keels. 1st as many of you know, I work for Interlux. After blasting, and I prefer a heavy grit blast, the idea to get coating on asap is very good but nobody spoke about cleaning before coating. A good start is to blow off the keel w/ clean dry hi pressure air, use eye protection. Then wipe it down with solvent,(you can use 2316 or 2333) depending on which one you have (2316 for spray or 2333 for roll/brush) use lots of rags 1st wet then with a clean dry one. You'll notice some blackish graphite looking stuff on the rag, so continue till the black crap is gone ( I got a little freaky when I did mine and even worked the holes and divots with Q-tips. don't use acetone as it evaporates too fast and we're trying to get the crap off , not just make mud and smear it around. Then apply the 1st coat of 2000E thinned 15% with the above solvent. Let it dry as long as you want up to 6 months and there's no need to sand between coats ! How cool is that. I like to put on at least a second coat un- thined 2000e before using filler a couple is better, as you will want to sand the filler before adding more 2000e over the top. Try not to sand the 2000,just the filler,(a stiff rubber or wooded block will help. then encapsulate the filler with more 2000 and Bob's your uncle. You can go to www.yachtpaint.com for more data and look up a data sheet with all the specifics about over coating and how much to use etc. If you want to go the extra mile you can start as above and finish with VC high performance Epoxy and it's even harder and tougher then 2000E Stan On Monday, September 8, 2014 8:05 AM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote: HI Robbin, Thanks for the informtion! In your course of filling and fairing I suppose you used epoxy fillers and ended up finding out that everything stuck to everything. So I will do likewise and sandblast and immediately coat with the 2000 and proceed accordingly. I had a good time with time with chemistry in college but I am having to dust off a lot of stuff in dealing with these various coating materials. One side of my board looks almost perfect, the other has some deep cratering in it. Wonder if it came from the foundry like that. How could only one side of a submerged cast iron keel get so much more badly pitted?? Fair winds, Tom B On Mon, Sep 8, 2014 at 5:44 AM, Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
wrote:
Hi Tom, I followed the directions from Sean and others on my iron centerboard rehab. I had the board soda blasted and within 10 minutes coated it with 2000e. Took it home filled and faired and coated it many more times. It is holding up well. I cannot offer any advice on the bolt.
Thanks Robbin
On 9/7/2014 8:07 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Just dropped (well, not literally) my 180# cast iron centerboard. It is very rusty and one side is heavily eaten away. I have read all the very fine print on the Interlux cans of stuff I have. Still not sure how to proceed. I already have Interlux Watertite Epoxy filler and some Epoxy Primecoat left over from the deck. Also, on order, is the 2000E also from Interlux. The MSOG info states "...sandblasting, fairing rough areas with epoxy putty and then multiple coats of Interlux 2000E. After sandblasting I like to coat the entire board with epoxy before painting." Does that mean that it is preferable after sandblasting to just coat the entire board with epoxy? Epoxy after priming the cast iron with 2000E? Epoxy after priming the cast iron before fairing out the deep pitting in the cast iron?? First sandblasting, then epoxy filler, then priming with 2000E then epoxy the whole board before painting it???
I don't want to use the wrong order or the wrong stuff and have some layer slough off and take all the others with it.
Also concerning the centerboard- the stop bolt which catches the board as it is lowered in my boat was just through bolted with the nut and bolt head left proud of the sides of the centerboard truck. Can I safely counter sink these into the centerboard trunk without punching through into the ballast compartment? The upper pivot bolt is well recessed at both ends. (and)Also I have in mind to install a couple of stainless steel tangs inside the centerboard slot. One end of each would be through bolted by the bolt that catches the centerboard as it is being lowered. The upper end of each tang, about 8 inches long would be through bolted by another 3/8 inch bolt higher up on the centerboard truck. The through bolt there would be placed outside the swing of the centerboard as it is lowered. This second bolt would in effect help alleviate all of the cleaving force of a "runaway centerboard" should its pennant fray or become disconnected from the board while it is being lowered and prevent the lower catch bolt from being smashed out of the bottom of the centerboard truck. It looks like there is enough clearance inside the cb truck slot to allow for a couple of eighth inch thick tangs. Here also the question arises concerning being able to counter sink the bolt into the sides of the centerboard trunk without punching into the ballast compartment. Any thoughts on this procedure? Thanks for your thoughts on these matters. Tom B
Tom B, Mont.17 #258
I have a cheaper and quicker method than the sandblast and epoxy coat method: moisture cured polyurethane. I don't have any good information on the relative long term durability of this as compared to sandblasting + epoxy, but in my experience it is a durable and long lasting solution if done properly. I did the cast iron swing keel on my Catalina 22 in place underneath the boat, because I didn't have the money or equipment to transport the keel. I just sanded both sides with a large belt sander and wire wheel until nothing was loose, wiped down with paint thinner to clean, and then painted 4 thick coats of moisture cured polyurethane based paint directly over the rusty iron. This stuff is advertised as being capable of "painting over rust" under the brand name POR-15, and also sold by Pettit as "Trailercoat" for boat trailers. I know it sounds crazy to paint over rust in a marine environment- but the keel still looks perfect after 4 years, including one entire year moored in the water. While it can paint over descaled rust, the surface has to be absolutely clean otherwise- with absolutely no oil or loose existing paint. Sincerely, Tyler
Thanks, Tyler, I have the board out and have lined up a local sandblaster but a friend of mine with a large cb can probably use this information. Tom B On Mon, Sep 8, 2014 at 3:38 PM, <casioqv@usermail.com> wrote:
I have a cheaper and quicker method than the sandblast and epoxy coat method: moisture cured polyurethane. I don't have any good information on the relative long term durability of this as compared to sandblasting + epoxy, but in my experience it is a durable and long lasting solution if done properly.
I did the cast iron swing keel on my Catalina 22 in place underneath the boat, because I didn't have the money or equipment to transport the keel. I just sanded both sides with a large belt sander and wire wheel until nothing was loose, wiped down with paint thinner to clean, and then painted 4 thick coats of moisture cured polyurethane based paint directly over the rusty iron.
This stuff is advertised as being capable of "painting over rust" under the brand name POR-15, and also sold by Pettit as "Trailercoat" for boat trailers. I know it sounds crazy to paint over rust in a marine environment- but the keel still looks perfect after 4 years, including one entire year moored in the water. While it can paint over descaled rust, the surface has to be absolutely clean otherwise- with absolutely no oil or loose existing paint.
Sincerely, Tyler
Stan, you are ("...the man Musiel" for those base ball fans born back in the 1950's)! Thanks for this info, which answers all my questions exactly. I may as well finish up with the VC since I used that on my first M-17 back in 1983. I will eventually want to bottom paint the whole thing too. Fair winds, Tom B On Mon, Sep 8, 2014 at 11:37 AM, Stan Susman <stanpfa@pacbell.net> wrote:
Gang, Just a quick couple of things about finishing the cast iron keels. 1st as many of you know, I work for Interlux.
After blasting, and I prefer a heavy grit blast, the idea to get coating on asap is very good but nobody spoke about cleaning before coating. A good start is to blow off the keel w/ clean dry hi pressure air, use eye protection. Then wipe it down with solvent,(you can use 2316 or 2333) depending on which one you have (2316 for spray or 2333 for roll/brush) use lots of rags 1st wet then with a clean dry one. You'll notice some blackish graphite looking stuff on the rag, so continue till the black crap is gone ( I got a little freaky when I did mine and even worked the holes and divots with Q-tips. don't use acetone as it evaporates too fast and we're trying to get the crap off , not just make mud and smear it around. Then apply the 1st coat of 2000E thinned 15% with the above solvent. Let it dry as long as you want up to 6 months and there's no need to sand between coats ! How cool is that. I like to put on at least a second coat un- thined 2000e before using filler a couple is better, as you will want to sand the filler before adding more 2000e over the top. Try not to sand the 2000,just the filler,(a stiff rubber or wooded block will help. then encapsulate the filler with more 2000 and Bob's your uncle. You can go to www.yachtpaint.com for more data and look up a data sheet with all the specifics about over coating and how much to use etc. If you want to go the extra mile you can start as above and finish with VC high performance Epoxy and it's even harder and tougher then 2000E
Stan
On Monday, September 8, 2014 8:05 AM, Thomas Buzzi <thomaspbuzzi@gmail.com> wrote:
HI Robbin, Thanks for the informtion! In your course of filling and fairing I suppose you used epoxy fillers and ended up finding out that everything stuck to everything. So I will do likewise and sandblast and immediately coat with the 2000 and proceed accordingly. I had a good time with time with chemistry in college but I am having to dust off a lot of stuff in dealing with these various coating materials. One side of my board looks almost perfect, the other has some deep cratering in it. Wonder if it came from the foundry like that. How could only one side of a submerged cast iron keel get so much more badly pitted??
Fair winds, Tom B
On Mon, Sep 8, 2014 at 5:44 AM, Robbin Roddewig < robbin.roddewig@verizon.net
wrote:
Hi Tom, I followed the directions from Sean and others on my iron centerboard rehab. I had the board soda blasted and within 10 minutes coated it with 2000e. Took it home filled and faired and coated it many more times. It is holding up well. I cannot offer any advice on the bolt.
Thanks Robbin
On 9/7/2014 8:07 PM, Thomas Buzzi wrote:
Just dropped (well, not literally) my 180# cast iron centerboard. It is very rusty and one side is heavily eaten away. I have read all the very fine print on the Interlux cans of stuff I have. Still not sure how to proceed. I already have Interlux Watertite Epoxy filler and some Epoxy Primecoat left over from the deck. Also, on order, is the 2000E also from Interlux. The MSOG info states "...sandblasting, fairing rough areas with epoxy putty and then multiple coats of Interlux 2000E. After sandblasting I like to coat the entire board with epoxy before painting." Does that mean that it is preferable after sandblasting to just coat the entire board with epoxy? Epoxy after priming the cast iron with 2000E? Epoxy after priming the cast iron before fairing out the deep pitting in the cast iron?? First sandblasting, then epoxy filler, then priming with 2000E then epoxy the whole board before painting it???
I don't want to use the wrong order or the wrong stuff and have some layer slough off and take all the others with it.
Also concerning the centerboard- the stop bolt which catches the board as it is lowered in my boat was just through bolted with the nut and bolt head left proud of the sides of the centerboard truck. Can I safely counter sink these into the centerboard trunk without punching through into the ballast compartment? The upper pivot bolt is well recessed at both ends. (and)Also I have in mind to install a couple of stainless steel tangs inside the centerboard slot. One end of each would be through bolted by the bolt that catches the centerboard as it is being lowered. The upper end of each tang, about 8 inches long would be through bolted by another 3/8 inch bolt higher up on the centerboard truck. The through bolt there would be placed outside the swing of the centerboard as it is lowered. This second bolt would in effect help alleviate all of the cleaving force of a "runaway centerboard" should its pennant fray or become disconnected from the board while it is being lowered and prevent the lower catch bolt from being smashed out of the bottom of the centerboard truck. It looks like there is enough clearance inside the cb truck slot to allow for a couple of eighth inch thick tangs. Here also the question arises concerning being able to counter sink the bolt into the sides of the centerboard trunk without punching into the ballast compartment. Any thoughts on this procedure? Thanks for your thoughts on these matters. Tom B
Tom B, Mont.17 #258
participants (4)
-
casioqv＠usermail.com -
Robbin Roddewig -
Stan Susman -
Thomas Buzzi