My question for you, Cherri, is: what's holding your centerboard in place? Or more, are you sure you even have one? Actually, I am in the process of refurbishing my M15's centerboard and keel stub at the moment, so I am intimately familiar with this. What you need is a stainless steel pin or rod, about 4 or 4-1/2 inches long (about 1/2 inch shorter than the total distance from side to side of the keel stub at that point). Mine is 3/8 inches in diameter and I assume that's what yours would be. Apparently, a former owner of my boat also lost his pin, because what I HAD in mine was a threaded carriage bolt, but I think a non-threaded rod would be best. (Less wear on the hole in the centerboard around the pin) Ultimately, you want to epoxy the pin in place and fill the holes on both outer sides with thickened epoxy, fairing it smooth and even with the stub keel. Following the suggestions in a book I have, I actually created two epoxy tubes, 3/8 inch inside diameter, drilled out the hole in the keel stub oversized, and epoxied these tubes in place well, to serve as the pivot pin hole. This serves the same purpose as simply filling the oversized hole with epoxy and then drilling (to perfectly seal the opening), but avoids the possibility of having to fill large voids in the keel stub with epoxy. The tubes are also stronger because they are cloth re-inforced epoxy. I created them by soaking light cloth in epoxy, then rolling it around a (waxed) 3/8 inch rod. Presto! My only problem is, I'm having trouble finding a 3/8 inch diameter stainless steel pin. Anybody know where to look? -- Steve McClellan 1981 M15 #152 Evanston, Illiois stevemc35@attbi.com
In the process of powerwashing my boat this morning, my friend discovered that the pin that holds the centerboard in the keel is missing. Does anyone know what I would use to replace it? Do you seal around the pin somehow? My friend asked about using 5200 marine sealant. We also found a small void (ding? hole?) in the hull under the water line. I am wondering if anyone has any recommendations for filling that. It isn't very deep but obviously has to be taken care of.
Cherri M-15 #322 Cherri's Jubilee
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Cherri: I had a centerboard made from steel and will want to drop it out for inspection from time to time. Since I don't want to monkey around with epoxy each time, I cut a pin to the width of the keel and had the ends tapped. Allen bolts inserted through caps screw into each end of the pin and hold in place. John, who made my board and the pin set-up said that he would be glad to make pins for anyone who was interested for ( I would have to check with him in case I am remembering wrong) $20, shipping included. If you are interested I can take a picture of my keel with the pin in it and post it on the web for you. Dale Williams Staples, MN M-15 #185 "Sophie Mae"
Dale, I'd love to see that pic on the MSOG website. Thanks, Craig p.s. Did you bevel the leading edge of your new steel board/do any "airfoil" shaping of any kind? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dale Williams" <dalew@brainerd.net> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 11:39 PM Subject: M_Boats: m-15 pivot pin Cherri: I had a centerboard made from steel and will want to drop it out for inspection from time to time. Since I don't want to monkey around with epoxy each time, I cut a pin to the width of the keel and had the ends tapped. Allen bolts inserted through caps screw into each end of the pin and hold in place. John, who made my board and the pin set-up said that he would be glad to make pins for anyone who was interested for ( I would have to check with him in case I am remembering wrong) $20, shipping included. If you are interested I can take a picture of my keel with the pin in it and post it on the web for you. Dale Williams Staples, MN M-15 #185 "Sophie Mae" _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Craig: The leading edge of my board is rounded and the trailing edge is feathered to approximate the glass board. I am sure it won't win any design awards, but I think the shape is pretty decent. I sail to relax and have fun, so it works great for me. Dale Honshells wrote:
Dale, I'd love to see that pic on the MSOG website. Thanks, Craig
p.s. Did you bevel the leading edge of your new steel board/do any "airfoil" shaping of any kind?
----- Original Message ----- From: "Dale Williams" <dalew@brainerd.net> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Friday, April 12, 2002 11:39 PM Subject: M_Boats: m-15 pivot pin
Cherri:
I had a centerboard made from steel and will want to drop it out for inspection from time to time. Since I don't want to monkey around with epoxy each time, I cut a pin to the width of the keel and had the ends tapped. Allen bolts inserted through caps screw into each end of the pin and hold in place. John, who made my board and the pin set-up said that he would be glad to make pins for anyone who was interested for ( I would have to check with him in case I am remembering wrong) $20, shipping included. If you are interested I can take a picture of my keel with the pin in it and post it on the web for you.
Dale Williams Staples, MN M-15 #185 "Sophie Mae"
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Relaxed sailing or no, it sounds like you took care to shape the board correctly. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dale Williams" <dalew@brainerd.net> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, April 14, 2002 11:31 PM Subject: M_Boats: m-15 pivot pin Craig: The leading edge of my board is rounded and the trailing edge is feathered to approximate the glass board. I am sure it won't win any design awards, but I think the shape is pretty decent. I sail to relax and have fun, so it works great for me. Dale
participants (3)
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Dale Williams -
Honshells -
stevemc35@attbi.com