Gudgeon/Pintle Pins, OEM OB Cut Out, OEM water tank
Hey Guys/Gals-- Rudder Install: Fairly new '79 M17 owner (couple of months now). Had a question about how rudder is attached to pintles/gudgeons. My boat came with 2 long (approx. 20" long) stainless rods for use in attaching rudder. Does these attach through top? What keeps rod from falling through and lifting out of gudgeons/pintles? The rods have no stops on top or bottom. There are two small holes on one end of each (cotter pin/ring?). Cotter ring/pin would prevent rod from falling down (if installed with holes at top) but what about lifting up? Did I get an extra rod or are both rods used (I don't know how that would work!)? Outboard Placement: Previous owner installed an outboard bracket on STBD side of transom, claiming rudder hits OB when turning hard to one side when OB is used in OEM location. Do your rudders hit on the M17 with OB attached on OEM cut out? My OB is a 2008 Nissan 6hp 4 stroke LS. Haven't tried OB yet, but would like to try it on OEM cut out rather than on OB bracket. Thoughts? OEM water tank Do those of you with older boats have OEM water tanks? If so, do you like them, do they serve you well, are they too much extra weight, etc..? I am considering taking tank out to reduce weight, but it would make sink/faucet useless. Thoughts? Having all kinds of fun fixing up this great little boat! Current projects include trailer mods (OB bracket for travel, mast crutch at bow (for travel), mast crutch/mast raiser at stern (extendable mast crutch to assist in raising mast), 8' extendable tongue, tie down tabs, and new taillight brackets that are installed higher to raise taillights and license plate (hated lic. plate scraping at every steep driveway/intersection). Next project is tiller pilot install. This fall I would like to remove all deck hardware and reglass all deck hardware holes as discussed here on this forum. Thanks for the suggestions, Carlos
Regarding the rod, the lowest gudgeon is supposed to be smaller in dia. than the others (three total as I recall). And the rod is machined down the last couple inches (small end first, dropped in from the top) so it fits the smaller hole and doesn't drop out. A pin of your choice goes in the tiny hole in the bottom of the rod to keep it from jumping up. I haven't looked at the rest of your question, but that's my answer to the first and I'm sticking to it... t
Tom- We made the 17 for several years before one of my customers was smart enough to suggest the two-diameter setup. Prior to that we used two cotter keys at the top; one on either side of the top gudgeon. You customers need to shape up and get smarter more faster! Jerry jerrymontgomery.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 3:22 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Gudgeon/Pintle Pins, OEM OB Cut Out, OEM water tank
Regarding the rod, the lowest gudgeon is supposed to be smaller in dia. than the others (three total as I recall). And the rod is machined down the last couple inches (small end first, dropped in from the top) so it fits the smaller hole and doesn't drop out. A pin of your choice goes in the tiny hole in the bottom of the rod to keep it from jumping up. I haven't looked at the rest of your question, but that's my answer to the first and I'm sticking to it... t
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Happy birthday you old fart. t On Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 3:47 PM, jerry <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> wrote:
Tom- We made the 17 for several years before one of my customers was smart enough to suggest the two-diameter setup. Prior to that we used two cotter keys at the top; one on either side of the top gudgeon. You customers need to shape up and get smarter more faster!
Jerry jerrymontgomery.org
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 3:22 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Gudgeon/Pintle Pins, OEM OB Cut Out, OEM water tank
Regarding the rod, the lowest gudgeon is supposed to be smaller in dia. than the others (three total as I recall). And the rod is machined down the last couple inches (small end first, dropped in from the top) so it fits the smaller hole and doesn't drop out. A pin of your choice goes in the tiny hole in the bottom of the rod to keep it from jumping up. I haven't looked at the rest of your question, but that's my answer to the first and I'm sticking to it... t
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Hey! Wwhere's my bottle of scotch? Got the outrigger worlds here in a couple of weeks! Working out daily. Jerry jerrymontgomery.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 3:42 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Gudgeon/Pintle Pins, OEM OB Cut Out, OEM water tank
Happy birthday you old fart. t
On Thu, Jul 17, 2008 at 3:47 PM, jerry <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> wrote:
Tom- We made the 17 for several years before one of my customers was smart enough to suggest the two-diameter setup. Prior to that we used two cotter keys at the top; one on either side of the top gudgeon. You customers need to shape up and get smarter more faster!
Jerry jerrymontgomery.org
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 3:22 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Gudgeon/Pintle Pins, OEM OB Cut Out, OEM water tank
Regarding the rod, the lowest gudgeon is supposed to be smaller in dia. than the others (three total as I recall). And the rod is machined down the last couple inches (small end first, dropped in from the top) so it fits the smaller hole and doesn't drop out. A pin of your choice goes in the tiny hole in the bottom of the rod to keep it from jumping up. I haven't looked at the rest of your question, but that's my answer to the first and I'm sticking to it... t
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That would be the old world outriggers, correct? I don't know why, but it's Jane who keeps track of your b-day... t
Larry can address the motor question. I know he bought a motor with a more centered control arm, but I don't know if that was a prop/rudder clearance issue or not. I know he uses the cutout, though I believe he experimented with a mount. Larry? t
Carlos, I recently acquired M17 #14 which belonged to my brother. It has the transom cutout for the outboard and he solved the problem of the outboard prop hitting the rudder by attaching a triangular block on each side of the rudder to limit the rudder angle. When the Rudder is at maximum angle, the forward edge of the block (with a rubber pad on it) touches the transom. It works fine since at any greater rudder angle, the rudder just acts as a brake anyway. Griselda is a fixed keel model but the early CB models had a sliding rod assembly on the rudder pintel and gudgeon that would allow the rudder to be raised to permit launching and shallow water sailing. If I remember correctly, there was a rod for the upper and one for the lower gudgeon. Maybe someone with an early CB model will know. He also removed the OEM water tank and attached a long hose to the faucet inlet. The hose leads forward to the area under the forward bunk where there is a rack that holds two 5 gallon "jerry cans" of water. The extra weight in the bow does mprove the balance of the boat and allows more storage space under the galley area. This allows you to carry the jugs ashore to wash and fill them. I am planning to add another access hatch under the bunk to make it easier to get to the "jerry cans". After my brother began to have problems with skin cancers, he stopped all outdoor activities and parked the boat in his back yard for 15 years. I finally bout her from him am in the process of cleaning up the boat to go back in the water and be moored at my private dock behind the house. In years past, I have spent many pleasant hours aboard Griselda and sailing in company with her in my Slipper 17. It will be nice to have her back in the water looking like her former pristine self. Ron M17 #14 Griselda
From: cnavarro24@roadrunner.com> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Date: Thu, 17 Jul 2008 14:21:15 -0700> Subject: M_Boats: Gudgeon/Pintle Pins, OEM OB Cut Out, OEM water tank> > Hey Guys/Gals--> > Rudder Install:> Fairly new '79 M17 owner (couple of months now). Had a question about how rudder is attached to pintles/gudgeons. My boat came with 2 long (approx. 20" long) stainless rods for use in attaching rudder. Does these attach through top? What keeps rod from falling through and lifting out of gudgeons/pintles? The rods have no stops on top or bottom. There are two small holes on one end of each (cotter pin/ring?). Cotter ring/pin would prevent rod from falling down (if installed with holes at top) but what about lifting up? Did I get an extra rod or are both rods used (I don't know how that would work!)?> > > Outboard Placement:> Previous owner installed an outboard bracket on STBD side of transom, claiming rudder hits OB when turning hard to one side when OB is used in OEM location. Do your rudders hit on the M17 with OB attached on OEM cut out? My OB is a 2008 Nissan 6hp 4 stroke LS. Haven't tried OB yet, but would like to try it on OEM cut out rather than on OB bracket. Thoughts?> > OEM water tank> Do those of you with older boats have OEM water tanks? If so, do you like them, do they serve you well, are they too much extra weight, etc..? I am considering taking tank out to reduce weight, but it would make sink/faucet useless. Thoughts?> > Having all kinds of fun fixing up this great little boat! Current projects include trailer mods (OB bracket for travel, mast crutch at bow (for travel), mast crutch/mast raiser at stern (extendable mast crutch to assist in raising mast), 8' extendable tongue, tie down tabs, and new taillight brackets that are installed higher to raise taillights and license plate (hated lic. plate scraping at every steep driveway/intersection). Next project is tiller pilot install. This fall I would like to remove all deck hardware and reglass all deck hardware holes as discussed here on this forum.> > Thanks for the suggestions,> Carlos > _______________________________________________> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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participants (4)
-
Carlos -
jerry -
Ronnie Keeler -
Tom Smith