Thanks Jeff, I had followed your tale after the boat sold in Tucson. I had looked at her before you bought her but decided that I just didn't have the ability to deal with a boat so far away and with so many unknowns (her owner had not ever taken her sailing as you probably know). Then I bought one in CA sight unseen a few years later!! I appreciate your information. According to my bible of Old Boat the joint is best done with fiberglass and epoxy if one were doing it over. But I will see how practical that is in a repair. Glad to hear you are having fun with your 23. They are fun fun fun to sail! Need to take mine out for the first time later this week. The joint will be waiting for this fall when I can truck her home and use all my implements of destruction, but I may put some caulk in some places until then. Have fun, Robbin On 5/14/2012 10:06 AM, Jeff wrote:

Hi Robbin,

Thought I would respond because when I bought my M-23 in Tucson the inside of the hull was not lined in wood as most factory finished boats were. Sean was the first one to notice that on my boat the hull to deck joint was fiberglassed together on the inside. I don't think this was typical, but it does not leak. Not sure if the fix for you would be better from the inside or outside. I have since insulated and lined the inside of the hull with wood but made it so I could remove the wood strips if needed to get at the hull or deck joint.

By the way, living in Bellingham now and the boat is in the water at Sandy Point. Had a great time sailing out to Sucia Island the other day. Got to sail about 7 miles on one tack... Nice to be in 'big' water again!

Should be ready for the next montgomery San Juan trip!

Jeff M-23 Clarity

________________________________ From: Robbin Roddewig<robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2012 6:51 PM Subject: M_Boats: deck hull joint leak (I think)

Hi there M-boaters, I have a question regarding some water intrusion and rot. When I pulled out my port quarter berth cushions the other week to have them recovered I noticed some water below one of the cushions. There was no reason it should be there so I started to poke around. I found that a section of the ash strips on the side of the hull were black and rotted (nasty looking). The previous owner had put a hanging zip bag over this section hiding it so I had not noticed it before. I believe that this area must be seeing leakage from the deck (it is below a port light but no way is this amount of rot from a leaking port). The area that is molding and is just below where the water tends to pool on the side decks. The perforated toe rail does not allow all the water to drain. So I am guessing that it has been seeping in through the toe rail/deck hull joint where it pools. I want to take off the ash slats to see what is going on but I have a shelf in the way. I nice teak shelf without any water damage. How can I remove the shelf? It has teak plugs all over but I did not want to just start drilling them out. Any suggestions on decyphering how the shelf is attached? If it is the joint (which it just has to be) how does one go about resealing? I think Sean said he has done some work like this but I do not remember to much description except it was not fun. Any suggestions will be most appreciated.

Cheers Robbin M-23 and M-10

Doug When I installed a CDI furler on my M17 I also replaced the headstay in order to put a toggle at the masthead, which is a requirement for using the furler. I got it from Furling and Rigging, 1571 Placentia Ave. Newport Beach, CA 92663, Tel: (949) 631-2163, which has all the M17 measurments. Doesn't cost a lot, less than $100, and makes it easy to mount the furler. Just measure and mark the foil at least six times before you cut! I assembled the furler drum with the headstay laid out on the ground before actually mounting the headstay on the mast. Good luck, Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 3:43 AM, Doug Vogel <shadowmt@earthlink.net> wrote:

Hello sailers with small boats,but big hearts,

I am finally installing my CDI-2 furler on my M17. I got it late last summer , but never had time to install. My 17 has a Johnson Marine Quick-Release shroud lever at the bottom of the head stay. It has made attaching the head stay easy when raising the mast. I am lucky as I am on a mooring all summer, and can leave the mast rigged.

As I look at the quick-release shroud lever, it is clear it is not meant to fit into the bottom of the CDI - Furler. It is bolted to the lower end of the turnbuckle at the bottom of the head stay . I do not think there is enough expansion in the turn buckle to make up for the approx 6 " length of the lever.My sail maker,(Hood Sails in Sausalito) suggested either putting the shroud lever at the top of the mast or getting a new head stay. Mine measures 22 ' 9" . Is it possible that I can get one from Sage or from Jerry ? And how much would it cost?

I haven't spent hardly any $ yet this year except for mooring and registration fees. Maybe it's time.

If the 2 obvious sources above do not have replacement head stays, I'd appreciate the name of your favorite riggers . Or any other clever ways to solve this problem. I may be able to add a link tang to make up the space if I remove the lever. I'll take a photo tomorrow .

Thanks all,

Doug Vogel

Tieline

M -17 #325

Second that. You can't beat being able to switch from a full 135% genoa to a working jib or less in ten seconds without leaving the cockpit! Between that and a simple quick-reefing setup weather becomes much less intimidating for a single-hander. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 9:53 AM, Gilbert Landin <gilbert@mindgame.com>wrote:

Best thing I ever did was installed the CDI furler, I ordered a new one from Jerry, no regrets.

Gilbert M17 1975

-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+gilbert.landin= gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+gilbert.landin =gmail.com@mailman.xmission.c om] On Behalf Of Rick Davies Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2012 8:17 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: CDI furler install issue

Doug

When I installed a CDI furler on my M17 I also replaced the headstay in order to put a toggle at the masthead, which is a requirement for using the furler. I got it from Furling and Rigging, 1571 Placentia Ave. Newport Beach, CA 92663, Tel: (949) 631-2163, which has all the M17 measurments. Doesn't cost a lot, less than $100, and makes it easy to mount the furler. Just measure and mark the foil at least six times before you cut! I assembled the furler drum with the headstay laid out on the ground before actually mounting the headstay on the mast.

Good luck,

Rick M17 #633 Lynne L

On Tue, May 15, 2012 at 3:43 AM, Doug Vogel <shadowmt@earthlink.net> wrote:

...

Hello sailers with small boats,but big hearts,

I am finally installing my CDI-2 furler on my M17. I got it late last summer , but never had time to install. My 17 has a Johnson Marine Quick-Release shroud lever at the bottom of the head stay. It has made attaching the head stay easy when raising the mast. I am lucky as I am on a mooring all summer, and can leave the mast rigged.

As I look at the quick-release shroud lever, it is clear it is not meant to fit into the bottom of the CDI - Furler. It is bolted to the lower end of the turnbuckle at the bottom of the head stay . I do not think there is enough expansion in the turn buckle to make up for the approx 6 " length of the lever.My sail maker,(Hood Sails in Sausalito) suggested either putting the shroud lever at the top of the mast or getting a new head stay. Mine measures 22 ' 9" . Is it possible that I can get one from Sage or from Jerry ? And how much would it cost?

I haven't spent hardly any $ yet this year except for mooring and registration fees. Maybe it's time.

If the 2 obvious sources above do not have replacement head stays, I'd appreciate the name of your favorite riggers . Or any other clever ways to solve this problem. I may be able to add a link tang to make up the space if I remove the lever. I'll take a photo tomorrow .

Thanks all,

Doug Vogel

Tieline

M -17 #325

I removed the port toe rail from my M23 looking for an elusive leak that I assumed was in the hull to deck joint. I don't think the joint itself is the problem (it certainly wasn't on Faith). The source of the leak is probably the bolt holes for the toe rail. Remove the bolts (2 person job-1 inside 1 outside) and carefully rebed each one with boat life caulk. Allow the caulk to set up before you tighten the bolts down and try to tighten them with the nut only turning. If you can keep the bolt from turning the seal will not be compromised. You can take the toerail off completely if you like, but I'm willing to bet that rebedding the bolts along the low point especially will stop your leak. That was all that I really needed to do to Faith. Removing the toerail was simply a lot of unnecessary work. Give it a shot. It can be done in a lot less time although you still need to remove the interior wood to access the nuts (not really very difficult to do). Good luck Mark Dvorscak M23 Faith M15 - awaiting rebirth -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Robbin Roddewig Sent: Sunday, May 13, 2012 6:52 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: deck hull joint leak (I think) Hi there M-boaters, I have a question regarding some water intrusion and rot. When I pulled out my port quarter berth cushions the other week to have them recovered I noticed some water below one of the cushions. There was no reason it should be there so I started to poke around. I found that a section of the ash strips on the side of the hull were black and rotted (nasty looking). The previous owner had put a hanging zip bag over this section hiding it so I had not noticed it before. I believe that this area must be seeing leakage from the deck (it is below a port light but no way is this amount of rot from a leaking port). The area that is molding and is just below where the water tends to pool on the side decks. The perforated toe rail does not allow all the water to drain. So I am guessing that it has been seeping in through the toe rail/deck hull joint where it pools. I want to take off the ash slats to see what is going on but I have a shelf in the way. I nice teak shelf without any water damage. How can I remove the shelf? It has teak plugs all over but I did not want to just start drilling them out. Any suggestions on decyphering how the shelf is attached? If it is the joint (which it just has to be) how does one go about resealing? I think Sean said he has done some work like this but I do not remember to much description except it was not fun. Any suggestions will be most appreciated. Cheers Robbin M-23 and M-10