Hey mark, I found a weld shop that says they will cut the board out of plate steel and I should then get it power coated. the cost for the centerboard board steel replacement would be $100.00, the drilling of the pivot up hole, etc. would be $35.00. It will be a little bit thinner by a 1/8 inch. Don't know how much that would weight in at.. I've called a couple places for powered coated work, so far no quotes. -- I found a machine shop that can come up with a stainless board cut exactly same shape with holes drilled and all comes to $350.00 its made of 304 stainless, I think it should be 316 to be used in salt water..I think that would weight the same. Its cut with a laser and water/sand mix to extremely tight tolerances looks almost ready to polish. I didn't know they do that. Mike PS, how do you convert your drawings to jpeg, tiff and pdf ?
Is that powDer coated? Is that necessary with stainless? ----- Original Message ----- From: "MC Carpenter" <southisland2@earthlink.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 6:20 PM Subject: replace center - board Hey mark, I found a weld shop that says they will cut the board out of plate steel and I should then get it power coated. the cost for the centerboard board steel replacement would be $100.00, the drilling of the pivot up hole, etc. would be $35.00. It will be a little bit thinner by a 1/8 inch. Don't know how much that would weight in at.. I've called a couple places for powered coated work, so far no quotes. -- I found a machine shop that can come up with a stainless board cut exactly same shape with holes drilled and all comes to $350.00 its made of 304 stainless, I think it should be 316 to be used in salt water..I think that would weight the same. Its cut with a laser and water/sand mix to extremely tight tolerances looks almost ready to polish. I didn't know they do that. Mike PS, how do you convert your drawings to jpeg, tiff and pdf ?
No the power coat is for the iron center-board replacement to make it as rust proof as possible. Because the steel board would be so much cheaper then having a custom pour done with cast iron. The stainless series 316 does not require covering, but painting it with white racing anti fouling would seem like a good idea no matter what the color of the hull would be
Gotcha . . . Thanks . . . I've heard of powder coat, but never heard of power coat . . . If I opted for 316, I would probably leave it unpainted, because I dry-sail my boat (leave it on the trailer, mast-up, when not in use) . . . ----- Original Message ----- From: "MC Carpenter" <southisland2@earthlink.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 9:05 PM Subject: replace center - board No the power coat is for the iron center-board replacement to make it as rust proof as possible. Because the steel board would be so much cheaper then having a custom pour done with cast iron. The stainless series 316 does not require covering, but painting it with white racing anti fouling would seem like a good idea no matter what the color of the hull would be
Hey Mike, My old board was Powder coated. The stuff is really tough I found the receipt for the work. The board was hot dipped galvanized then powder coated. The cost came in at $ 65.00 in 2001 So if you adjust for inflation you should not have to pay more than $75-$80.00 bucks. Image Conversion Information: I think you said you were using an Adobe Product for your photo stuff. If that's the case after you scan or import the image into your software you should be able to File Save As. A dialogue box should appear with image file types. jpg, tiff, bmp, etc. You may also have to change your original image to Indexed, 24bit color, or 8bit grayscale before your software allows you to save. PDF's: In order to convert or "Distill" an image to the pdf file format you have to purchase the full blown version of Adobe Acrobat. the viewer is distributed for free. That's the hook I think I'll have to take the bait and make the purchase. It's so much easier to share dissimilar file formats with others independently of native software's. ----- Original Message ----- From: MC Carpenter To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 6:05 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: replace center - board No the power coat is for the iron center-board replacement to make it as rust proof as possible. Because the steel board would be so much cheaper then having a custom pour done with cast iron. The stainless series 316 does not require covering, but painting it with white racing anti fouling would seem like a good idea no matter what the color of the hull would be _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Mike, Hope you don't mind my butting in but I have been following your emails and would sure be interested in replacing my centerboard. I live on the west coast, where are you? Is it possible to put me in touch with the shops you have been talking to or can you maybe get a better price if you order more than one board. My M17 is a 1978 (I think) and has the same board as yours. The stainless sounds good to me. I appreciate any help you can offer. Thanks. Ken M17 "Mo Betta" From: "Honshells" <chonshell@ia4u.net> To: "For and about MontgomerySailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 5:40 PM Subject: M_Boats: replace center - board
Is that powDer coated? Is that necessary with stainless?
----- Original Message ----- From: "MC Carpenter" <southisland2@earthlink.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats"
<montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2003 6:20 PM Subject: replace center - board
Hey mark,
I found a weld shop that says they will cut the board out of plate steel and I should then get it power coated. the cost for the centerboard board steel replacement would be $100.00, the drilling of the pivot up hole, etc. would be $35.00. It will be a little bit thinner by a 1/8 inch. Don't know how much that would weight in at.. I've called a couple places for powered coated work, so far no quotes. -- I found a machine shop that can come up with a stainless board cut exactly same shape with holes drilled and all comes to $350.00 its made of 304 stainless, I think it should be 316 to be used in salt water..I think that would weight the same. Its cut with a laser and water/sand mix to extremely tight tolerances looks almost ready to polish. I didn't know they do that.
Mike
PS, how do you convert your drawings to jpeg, tiff and pdf ?
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
One of the suppliers of steel I use is centrally located in El Paso. TX , I think that is because of central trucking routes. I believe you could find someone much closer if you are on the west coast. When I lived in Richmond, CA.near the old Ford plant I could get anything I ever wanted in the industrial market around the bay. Which was very nice to have. Both companies I worked for left California, so I moved too. Mark sent me a diagram of the board for the pre 1983 I believe his is 1974 but????? , I believe. I could forward it to you if its the right one to be useful. Mike Erg told me they changed the board in 1987 to lighter board only weighting in at 45 lbs. At this moment I plan on the stainless steel board with a two part epoxy white coating (then coated with white racing antifouling), so it can be seen clearly when in the down position. I don't care the color when its in the up position. I choose stainless because I also plan to install a stainless pin with a plastic bearing sheave. The pin will be capped with a plastic stopper in a way that the that when the stopper and the pin are removed the board will hopefully hang on the pendant and then be slid down either in the water or on dry land. I was going to use a screw jack but after trying it out on a model I found I would lose a lot of cockpit space for the assemble. But as try new things out I might find a better way to do this. I remember making my first wind-vane it took about ten attempts to get it right. When done it sailed my Cape Dory sailboat from San Francisco to La Paz, it was only good for 5 degrees either way but I thought that was all I needed for a small boat. Mike
Ken, The shipping for a 100 lb or more piece of steel would be humongous, try to get the new center-board cut closer to home. They can cut a piece of stainless steel quickly and easily to any shape you can imagine or copy any form. I am working on some drawings to put on the email so I can get feed back on the new design from the other M-17 owners, but having a little problem doing the file conversion. I'll get it mastered soon. I think I will have to buy a scanner. Mike
Mike, If you want, send a clean copy to me. I'll scan it and make it available on the MSOG site. I can scan up to legal size at a shot (that's best), or can cut, scan and put back together graphically a larger version. Email me offline if you're interested for my address. Cheaper than a scanner. Doug At 07:21 PM 11/19/03 -0500, you wrote:
Ken, The shipping for a 100 lb or more piece of steel would be humongous, try to get the new center-board cut closer to home. They can cut a piece of stainless steel quickly and easily to any shape you can imagine or copy any form. I am working on some drawings to put on the email so I can get feed back on the new design from the other M-17 owners, but having a little problem doing the file conversion. I'll get it mastered soon. I think I will have to buy a scanner.
Mike
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------------------------------------------ Doug King M-17 #404 "Vixen" Montgomery Sailboats Owners Group Web site: http://msog.org Email: msog@msog.org
Mike, Thanks Mike, I will wait for your drawing. Ken ----- Original Message ----- From: "MC Carpenter" <southisland2@earthlink.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 4:21 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: replace center - board
Ken, The shipping for a 100 lb or more piece of steel would be humongous, try to get the new center-board cut closer to home. They can cut a piece of stainless steel quickly and easily to any shape you can imagine or copy any form. I am working on some drawings to put on the email so I can get feed back on the new design from the other M-17 owners, but having a little problem doing the file conversion. I'll get it mastered soon. I think I will have to buy a scanner.
Mike
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
participants (5)
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Doug King -
Honshells -
Ken Wheeler -
Mark Escovedo -
MC Carpenter