Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
looks like the centerboard picture didn't attach ... now for a second attempt. :: Dave Scobie --- On Thu, 5/9/13, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
Scott:
...
as already discussed the pin goes through the centerboard. i've attached a picture that shows the 'parts' of an M15, M17, M23 and S17 centerboard (all have the same essential design just differing sizes based on year of build).
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Wed, 5/8/13, Scott Larson <salarson2@comcast.net> wrote:
I am in the process of getting my newly acquired Montgomery 15 ready for bottom paint. Since it will be sitting at a mooring, I think it will be prudent to prep it with an epoxy barrier paint and then paint with my bottom paint of choice. I have found a product that seems to get the hull nice and clean. It is this highly caustic stuff, but tends to get all the grub and stains off the hull. I will be using a new product by West Marine (made by Petit). They claim you should prepare the hull using this stuff that costs over 30.00 a quart to remove residual mold release agent. I suppose it is possible that there may still be some mold release agent on a 30 YO hull. But even if there is, I have read that it can be removed with warm water and a sponge. Does anyone have any feedback on this matter?
As for painting the bottom with barrier coat, is there any reason why I cannot just paint over the small scratches with the barrier coat without filling them? Also, there are some areas with small blisters, about 1-2 mm. What should I do with those?
Also, a few of the scratches seem to reveal green gelcoat beneath the white gelcoat. Is it possible that the boat was originally given a coat of green gelcoat beneath the white gelcoat? This might actually make sense if the entire mold were sprayed with white up to the sheerstrake first, then had the entire inside of the mold sprayed up to the sheerline with green gelcoat to get the green stripe. The other possibility is that the hull was originally green and it was painted or given a new gelcoat up to the sheerstrake. If that were the case, whoever did it, did a pretty good job of it.
As for the centerboard, the pin is covered with what appears to be a silicone marine sealant on each side. Should I just leave that alone and hope for the best? Does the centerboard have a hook at the end where it attaches to the pin? In that case held in by the force of gravity? From the pictures of John Harris' repair, it appears that he re-set the pin before putting the board back in.
Any insight would be great!
Scott Larson
Good sketch Dave. Helpful to everyone. Bill On Thu, May 9, 2013 at 10:42 AM, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
looks like the centerboard picture didn't attach ... now for a second attempt.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Thu, 5/9/13, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
Scott:
...
as already discussed the pin goes through the centerboard. i've attached a picture that shows the 'parts' of an M15, M17, M23 and S17 centerboard (all have the same essential design just differing sizes based on year of build).
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Wed, 5/8/13, Scott Larson <salarson2@comcast.net> wrote:
I am in the process of getting my newly acquired Montgomery 15 ready for bottom paint. Since it will be sitting at a mooring, I think it will be prudent to prep it with an epoxy barrier paint and then paint with my bottom paint of choice. I have found a product that seems to get the hull nice and clean. It is this highly caustic stuff, but tends to get all the grub and stains off the hull. I will be using a new product by West Marine (made by Petit). They claim you should prepare the hull using this stuff that costs over 30.00 a quart to remove residual mold release agent. I suppose it is possible that there may still be some mold release agent on a 30 YO hull. But even if there is, I have read that it can be removed with warm water and a sponge. Does anyone have any feedback on this matter?
As for painting the bottom with barrier coat, is there any reason why I cannot just paint over the small scratches with the barrier coat without filling them? Also, there are some areas with small blisters, about 1-2 mm. What should I do with those?
Also, a few of the scratches seem to reveal green gelcoat beneath the white gelcoat. Is it possible that the boat was originally given a coat of green gelcoat beneath the white gelcoat? This might actually make sense if the entire mold were sprayed with white up to the sheerstrake first, then had the entire inside of the mold sprayed up to the sheerline with green gelcoat to get the green stripe. The other possibility is that the hull was originally green and it was painted or given a new gelcoat up to the sheerstrake. If that were the case, whoever did it, did a pretty good job of it.
As for the centerboard, the pin is covered with what appears to be a silicone marine sealant on each side. Should I just leave that alone and hope for the best? Does the centerboard have a hook at the end where it attaches to the pin? In that case held in by the force of gravity? From the pictures of John Harris' repair, it appears that he re-set the pin before putting the board back in.
Any insight would be great!
Scott Larson
Dave How does the CB system know not to drop the center board beyond the proper distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk? George -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David Scobie Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:42 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture looks like the centerboard picture didn't attach ... now for a second attempt. :: Dave Scobie --- On Thu, 5/9/13, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
Scott:
...
as already discussed the pin goes through the
centerboard. i've attached a picture that shows the
'parts' of an M15, M17, M23 and S17 centerboard (all have
the same essential design just differing sizes based on year
of build).
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Wed, 5/8/13, Scott Larson <salarson2@comcast.net>
wrote:
I am in the process of getting
my newly acquired Montgomery 15 ready for
bottom paint. Since it will be sitting at a mooring,
I
think it will be
prudent to prep it with an epoxy barrier paint and
then
paint with my bottom
paint of choice. I have found a product that seems
to
get the hull nice and
clean. It is this highly caustic stuff, but tends to
get all the grub and
stains off the hull. I will be using a new product
by
West Marine (made by
Petit). They claim you should prepare the hull using
this stuff that costs
over 30.00 a quart to remove residual mold release
agent. I suppose it is
possible that there may still be some mold release
agent on
a 30 YO hull.
But even if there is, I have read that it can be
removed with warm water
and a sponge. Does anyone have any feedback on this
matter?
As for painting the bottom with barrier coat, is there
any
reason why I
cannot just paint over the small scratches with the
barrier
coat without
filling them? Also, there are some areas with small
blisters, about 1-2 mm.
What should I do with those?
Also, a few of the scratches seem to reveal green
gelcoat
beneath the white
gelcoat. Is it possible that the boat was originally
given a coat of green
gelcoat beneath the white gelcoat? This might
actually
make sense if the
entire mold were sprayed with white up to the
sheerstrake
first, then had
the entire inside of the mold sprayed up to the
sheerline
with green gelcoat
to get the green stripe. The other possibility is
that
the hull was
originally green and it was painted or given a new
gelcoat
up to the
sheerstrake. If that were the case, whoever did it,
did a pretty good job
of it.
As for the centerboard, the pin is covered with what
appears
to be a
silicone marine sealant on each side. Should I just
leave that alone and
hope for the best? Does the centerboard have a hook
at
the end where it
attaches to the pin? In that case held in by the
force
of gravity? From
the pictures of John Harris' repair, it appears that
he
re-set the pin
before putting the board back in.
Any insight would be great!
Scott Larson
George, I believe the M17, M23 and S17 use a stop pin to keep the CB from lowering beyond it desired depth. As for the M15, the board is light enough, that the stop knot on the pendant is used to adjust the depth of the CB. Skip -----Original Message----- From: George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> To: 'For and about Montgomery Sailboats' <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Fri, May 10, 2013 7:49 pm Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture Dave How does the CB system know not to drop the center board beyond the proper distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk? George -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David Scobie Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 9:42 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture looks like the centerboard picture didn't attach ... now for a second attempt. :: Dave Scobie --- On Thu, 5/9/13, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
Scott:
...
as already discussed the pin goes through the
centerboard. i've attached a picture that shows the
'parts' of an M15, M17, M23 and S17 centerboard (all have
the same essential design just differing sizes based on year
of build).
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Wed, 5/8/13, Scott Larson <salarson2@comcast.net>
wrote:
I am in the process of getting
my newly acquired Montgomery 15 ready for
bottom paint. Since it will be sitting at a mooring,
I
think it will be
prudent to prep it with an epoxy barrier paint and
then
paint with my bottom
paint of choice. I have found a product that seems
to
get the hull nice and
clean. It is this highly caustic stuff, but tends to
get all the grub and
stains off the hull. I will be using a new product
by
West Marine (made by
Petit). They claim you should prepare the hull using
this stuff that costs
over 30.00 a quart to remove residual mold release
agent. I suppose it is
possible that there may still be some mold release
agent on
a 30 YO hull.
But even if there is, I have read that it can be
removed with warm water
and a sponge. Does anyone have any feedback on this
matter?
As for painting the bottom with barrier coat, is there
any
reason why I
cannot just paint over the small scratches with the
barrier
coat without
filling them? Also, there are some areas with small
blisters, about 1-2 mm.
What should I do with those?
Also, a few of the scratches seem to reveal green
gelcoat
beneath the white
gelcoat. Is it possible that the boat was originally
given a coat of green
gelcoat beneath the white gelcoat? This might
actually
make sense if the
entire mold were sprayed with white up to the
sheerstrake
first, then had
the entire inside of the mold sprayed up to the
sheerline
with green gelcoat
to get the green stripe. The other possibility is
that
the hull was
originally green and it was painted or given a new
gelcoat
up to the
sheerstrake. If that were the case, whoever did it,
did a pretty good job
of it.
As for the centerboard, the pin is covered with what
appears
to be a
silicone marine sealant on each side. Should I just
leave that alone and
hope for the best? Does the centerboard have a hook
at
the end where it
attaches to the pin? In that case held in by the
force
of gravity? From
the pictures of John Harris' repair, it appears that
he
re-set the pin
before putting the board back in.
Any insight would be great!
Scott Larson
George: the pennant should have stop knot (figure-8 knot) about 17"-18" above where comes up into the cockpit. i sailed my M15, and the Glessers', with the knot about 1" from 'going into the trunk'. i can share a picture from the Glesser's M15 if needed. the M15's centerboard 'in-trunk forward edge' will hit the forward end of the centerboard trunk if it is over extended. the board is still in the truck at this stage and not correctly supported. now this is for Jerry's boats ... which your boat is not. the pictures of your boat i have don't show the centerboard pennant clearly. so, i don't know if the one (or two) boats built buy Chuck (aka, American Classics) are to Jerry's spec. :: Dave Scobie --- On Fri, 5/10/13, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Dave
How does the CB system know not to drop the center board beyond the proper distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk?
George
Dave As I understand it 'AC' used the original molds so the orientation of the CB keel trunk and the opening in the cockpit should be the same as original designed. I just checked my boat and the CB pennant, goes thru the center opening of a 6" cleat mounted horizontally on the side of the cabin wall just below the hatch opening and, is 36" long. It does not have a stopper knot at 17"-18" above the cockpit floor opening. It appears that the depth of the board is controlled by the amount of line let out and then secured on the cleat. I intend to install a 180 deg. swiveling cleat platform with a c-cleat (WM model. 505456 pg.976) left over from my prior boat so as to have infinite depth control with out having to tie off. I have not had it in the water so do not know how far down the CB will go. Do you know if the CB had an original mold? A picture would be helpful information as I go forward. The 17"-18" information will be used to mark the pennant so as not the have the CB hit the CB trunk at the front end. Thanks for the feed back great support group. Will post pictures when I am done in the next week or so, George -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David Scobie Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 7:28 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture George: the pennant should have stop knot (figure-8 knot) about 17"-18" above where comes up into the cockpit. i sailed my M15, and the Glessers', with the knot about 1" from 'going into the trunk'. i can share a picture from the Glesser's M15 if needed. the M15's centerboard 'in-trunk forward edge' will hit the forward end of the centerboard trunk if it is over extended. the board is still in the truck at this stage and not correctly supported. now this is for Jerry's boats ... which your boat is not. the pictures of your boat i have don't show the centerboard pennant clearly. so, i don't know if the one (or two) boats built buy Chuck (aka, American Classics) are to Jerry's spec. :: Dave Scobie --- On Fri, 5/10/13, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Dave
How does the CB system know not to drop the center board
beyond the proper
distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk?
George
If I remember correctly, the M-15 centerboard was designed with a small tab built in which was intended to stop it from dropping to far (and pivoting forward into the trunk). Of course, the difficulty with that was if you simply dropped the centerboard uncontrolled the tab would eventually break off from impacting its stop, and if left to rest on its stop while underway wave action could eventually lead to tab failure, too. The purpose of the stopper knot is to keep the board and tab just above this position (which is where Jerry designed it to be deployed). Hope I'm not confusing the 15, 17, and 23. There's also a little centerboard info here (http://www.msog.org/how-to/how-to_flotjet.cfm#cb_snips) if you haven't already seen it. --------------- John Tyner M-15 #412 "Chimpanzee" On 5/11/2013 12:24 AM, George Iemmolo wrote:
Dave
As I understand it 'AC' used the original molds so the orientation of the CB keel trunk and the opening in the cockpit should be the same as original designed. I just checked my boat and the CB pennant, goes thru the center opening of a 6" cleat mounted horizontally on the side of the cabin wall just below the hatch opening and, is 36" long. It does not have a stopper knot at 17"-18" above the cockpit floor opening.
It appears that the depth of the board is controlled by the amount of line let out and then secured on the cleat. I intend to install a 180 deg. swiveling cleat platform with a c-cleat (WM model. 505456 pg.976) left over from my prior boat so as to have infinite depth control with out having to tie off. I have not had it in the water so do not know how far down the CB will go. Do you know if the CB had an original mold?
A picture would be helpful information as I go forward. The 17"-18" information will be used to mark the pennant so as not the have the CB hit the CB trunk at the front end.
Thanks for the feed back great support group.
Will post pictures when I am done in the next week or so,
George
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David Scobie Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 7:28 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
George:
the pennant should have stop knot (figure-8 knot) about 17"-18" above where comes up into the cockpit. i sailed my M15, and the Glessers', with the knot about 1" from 'going into the trunk'. i can share a picture from the Glesser's M15 if needed.
the M15's centerboard 'in-trunk forward edge' will hit the forward end of the centerboard trunk if it is over extended. the board is still in the truck at this stage and not correctly supported.
now this is for Jerry's boats ... which your boat is not. the pictures of your boat i have don't show the centerboard pennant clearly. so, i don't know if the one (or two) boats built buy Chuck (aka, American Classics) are to Jerry's spec.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Fri, 5/10/13, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Dave
How does the CB system know not to drop the center board
beyond the proper
distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk?
George
John Thanks for the feedback now see the need for the stopper knot at the 17"-18" distance will have to set mine up as specified. May not be able to use the proposed hardware and the stopper knot will prevent it's use. George -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of John Tyner Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 9:14 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture If I remember correctly, the M-15 centerboard was designed with a small tab built in which was intended to stop it from dropping to far (and pivoting forward into the trunk). Of course, the difficulty with that was if you simply dropped the centerboard uncontrolled the tab would eventually break off from impacting its stop, and if left to rest on its stop while underway wave action could eventually lead to tab failure, too. The purpose of the stopper knot is to keep the board and tab just above this position (which is where Jerry designed it to be deployed). Hope I'm not confusing the 15, 17, and 23. There's also a little centerboard info here (http://www.msog.org/how-to/how-to_flotjet.cfm#cb_snips) if you haven't already seen it. --------------- John Tyner M-15 #412 "Chimpanzee" On 5/11/2013 12:24 AM, George Iemmolo wrote:
Dave
As I understand it 'AC' used the original molds so the orientation of the CB
keel trunk and the opening in the cockpit should be the same as original
designed. I just checked my boat and the CB pennant, goes thru the center
opening of a 6" cleat mounted horizontally on the side of the cabin wall
just below the hatch opening and, is 36" long. It does not have a stopper
knot at 17"-18" above the cockpit floor opening.
It appears that the depth of the board is controlled by the amount of line
let out and then secured on the cleat. I intend to install a 180 deg.
swiveling cleat platform with a c-cleat (WM model. 505456 pg.976) left over
from my prior boat so as to have infinite depth control with out having to
tie off. I have not had it in the water so do not know how far down the CB
will go. Do you know if the CB had an original mold?
A picture would be helpful information as I go forward. The 17"-18"
information will be used to mark the pennant so as not the have the CB hit
the CB trunk at the front end.
Thanks for the feed back great support group.
Will post pictures when I am done in the next week or so,
George
-----Original Message-----
From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David
Scobie
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 7:28 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
George:
the pennant should have stop knot (figure-8 knot) about 17"-18" above where
comes up into the cockpit. i sailed my M15, and the Glessers', with the knot
about 1" from 'going into the trunk'. i can share a picture from the
Glesser's M15 if needed.
the M15's centerboard 'in-trunk forward edge' will hit the forward end of
the centerboard trunk if it is over extended. the board is still in the
truck at this stage and not correctly supported.
now this is for Jerry's boats ... which your boat is not. the pictures of
your boat i have don't show the centerboard pennant clearly. so, i don't
know if the one (or two) boats built buy Chuck (aka, American Classics) are
to Jerry's spec.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Fri, 5/10/13, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Dave
How does the CB system know not to drop the center board
beyond the proper
distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk?
George
I believe 17 to 18 inchs is too much. With the boat in the water, ease the board down (without a stopper knot) until it bottoms out. Put tension on the line, marke the line where it needs to stop an pull the board back up. The tie the stopper knot so that the mark is about 1 inch above the point that will jamb the stopper knot. This will allow for an inch of stretch in the rope if you accidentally let it free fall. Thanks Doug Kelch M15 G #310 "Seas the Day" On Sat, May 11, 2013 at 7:26 PM, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com>wrote:
John
Thanks for the feedback now see the need for the stopper knot at the 17"-18" distance will have to set mine up as specified. May not be able to use the proposed hardware and the stopper knot will prevent it's use.
George
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com ] On Behalf Of John Tyner Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 9:14 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
If I remember correctly, the M-15 centerboard was designed with a small
tab built in which was intended to stop it from dropping to far (and
pivoting forward into the trunk). Of course, the difficulty with that
was if you simply dropped the centerboard uncontrolled the tab would
eventually break off from impacting its stop, and if left to rest on its
stop while underway wave action could eventually lead to tab failure,
too. The purpose of the stopper knot is to keep the board and tab just
above this position (which is where Jerry designed it to be deployed).
Hope I'm not confusing the 15, 17, and 23. There's also a little
centerboard info here
(http://www.msog.org/how-to/how-to_flotjet.cfm#cb_snips) if you haven't
already seen it.
---------------
John Tyner
M-15 #412 "Chimpanzee"
On 5/11/2013 12:24 AM, George Iemmolo wrote:
Dave
As I understand it 'AC' used the original molds so the orientation of the CB
keel trunk and the opening in the cockpit should be the same as original
designed. I just checked my boat and the CB pennant, goes thru the center
opening of a 6" cleat mounted horizontally on the side of the cabin wall
just below the hatch opening and, is 36" long. It does not have a stopper
knot at 17"-18" above the cockpit floor opening.
It appears that the depth of the board is controlled by the amount of line
let out and then secured on the cleat. I intend to install a 180 deg.
swiveling cleat platform with a c-cleat (WM model. 505456 pg.976) left over
from my prior boat so as to have infinite depth control with out having to
tie off. I have not had it in the water so do not know how far down the CB
will go. Do you know if the CB had an original mold?
A picture would be helpful information as I go forward. The 17"-18"
information will be used to mark the pennant so as not the have the CB hit
the CB trunk at the front end.
Thanks for the feed back great support group.
Will post pictures when I am done in the next week or so,
George
-----Original Message-----
From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David
Scobie
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 7:28 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
George:
the pennant should have stop knot (figure-8 knot) about 17"-18" above where
comes up into the cockpit. i sailed my M15, and the Glessers', with the knot
about 1" from 'going into the trunk'. i can share a picture from the
Glesser's M15 if needed.
the M15's centerboard 'in-trunk forward edge' will hit the forward end of
the centerboard trunk if it is over extended. the board is still in the
truck at this stage and not correctly supported.
now this is for Jerry's boats ... which your boat is not. the pictures of
your boat i have don't show the centerboard pennant clearly. so, i don't
know if the one (or two) boats built buy Chuck (aka, American Classics) are
to Jerry's spec.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Fri, 5/10/13, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Dave
How does the CB system know not to drop the center board
beyond the proper
distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk?
George
Doug is correct- we set them At 15" at the factory. If the knot isn't pretty tight it will tend to migrate, so watch it. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Kelch" <doug1kelch@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 9:32 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
I believe 17 to 18 inchs is too much. With the boat in the water, ease the board down (without a stopper knot) until it bottoms out. Put tension on the line, marke the line where it needs to stop an pull the board back up. The tie the stopper knot so that the mark is about 1 inch above the point that will jamb the stopper knot. This will allow for an inch of stretch in the rope if you accidentally let it free fall.
Thanks
Doug Kelch M15 G #310 "Seas the Day"
On Sat, May 11, 2013 at 7:26 PM, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com>wrote:
John
Thanks for the feedback now see the need for the stopper knot at the 17"-18" distance will have to set mine up as specified. May not be able to use the proposed hardware and the stopper knot will prevent it's use.
George
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com ] On Behalf Of John Tyner Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 9:14 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
If I remember correctly, the M-15 centerboard was designed with a small
tab built in which was intended to stop it from dropping to far (and
pivoting forward into the trunk). Of course, the difficulty with that
was if you simply dropped the centerboard uncontrolled the tab would
eventually break off from impacting its stop, and if left to rest on its
stop while underway wave action could eventually lead to tab failure,
too. The purpose of the stopper knot is to keep the board and tab just
above this position (which is where Jerry designed it to be deployed).
Hope I'm not confusing the 15, 17, and 23. There's also a little
centerboard info here
(http://www.msog.org/how-to/how-to_flotjet.cfm#cb_snips) if you haven't
already seen it.
---------------
John Tyner
M-15 #412 "Chimpanzee"
On 5/11/2013 12:24 AM, George Iemmolo wrote:
Dave
As I understand it 'AC' used the original molds so the orientation of the CB
keel trunk and the opening in the cockpit should be the same as original
designed. I just checked my boat and the CB pennant, goes thru the center
opening of a 6" cleat mounted horizontally on the side of the cabin wall
just below the hatch opening and, is 36" long. It does not have a stopper
knot at 17"-18" above the cockpit floor opening.
It appears that the depth of the board is controlled by the amount of line
let out and then secured on the cleat. I intend to install a 180 deg.
swiveling cleat platform with a c-cleat (WM model. 505456 pg.976) left over
from my prior boat so as to have infinite depth control with out having to
tie off. I have not had it in the water so do not know how far down the CB
will go. Do you know if the CB had an original mold?
A picture would be helpful information as I go forward. The 17"-18"
information will be used to mark the pennant so as not the have the CB hit
the CB trunk at the front end.
Thanks for the feed back great support group.
Will post pictures when I am done in the next week or so,
George
-----Original Message-----
From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David
Scobie
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 7:28 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
George:
the pennant should have stop knot (figure-8 knot) about 17"-18" above where
comes up into the cockpit. i sailed my M15, and the Glessers', with the knot
about 1" from 'going into the trunk'. i can share a picture from the
Glesser's M15 if needed.
the M15's centerboard 'in-trunk forward edge' will hit the forward end of
the centerboard trunk if it is over extended. the board is still in the
truck at this stage and not correctly supported.
now this is for Jerry's boats ... which your boat is not. the pictures of
your boat i have don't show the centerboard pennant clearly. so, i don't
know if the one (or two) boats built buy Chuck (aka, American Classics) are
to Jerry's spec.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Fri, 5/10/13, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Dave
How does the CB system know not to drop the center board
beyond the proper
distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk?
George
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8582 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Jerry, I need to admit to my ignorance, because I am also concerned about the centerboard rope on my M-15, # 335, which you built in 1985. If I tie the knot at 15 inches, my question is 15 inches from what, where to I put the end of the ruler? Steve M-15 # 335 ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerry montgomery" <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 10:42 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
Doug is correct- we set them At 15" at the factory. If the knot isn't pretty tight it will tend to migrate, so watch it. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Kelch" <doug1kelch@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 9:32 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
I believe 17 to 18 inchs is too much. With the boat in the water, ease the board down (without a stopper knot) until it bottoms out. Put tension on the line, marke the line where it needs to stop an pull the board back up. The tie the stopper knot so that the mark is about 1 inch above the point that will jamb the stopper knot. This will allow for an inch of stretch in the rope if you accidentally let it free fall.
Thanks
Doug Kelch M15 G #310 "Seas the Day"
On Sat, May 11, 2013 at 7:26 PM, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com>wrote:
John
Thanks for the feedback now see the need for the stopper knot at the 17"-18" distance will have to set mine up as specified. May not be able to use the proposed hardware and the stopper knot will prevent it's use.
George
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com ] On Behalf Of John Tyner Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 9:14 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
If I remember correctly, the M-15 centerboard was designed with a small
tab built in which was intended to stop it from dropping to far (and
pivoting forward into the trunk). Of course, the difficulty with that
was if you simply dropped the centerboard uncontrolled the tab would
eventually break off from impacting its stop, and if left to rest on its
stop while underway wave action could eventually lead to tab failure,
too. The purpose of the stopper knot is to keep the board and tab just
above this position (which is where Jerry designed it to be deployed).
Hope I'm not confusing the 15, 17, and 23. There's also a little
centerboard info here
(http://www.msog.org/how-to/how-to_flotjet.cfm#cb_snips) if you haven't
already seen it.
---------------
John Tyner
M-15 #412 "Chimpanzee"
On 5/11/2013 12:24 AM, George Iemmolo wrote:
Dave
As I understand it 'AC' used the original molds so the orientation of the CB
keel trunk and the opening in the cockpit should be the same as original
designed. I just checked my boat and the CB pennant, goes thru the center
opening of a 6" cleat mounted horizontally on the side of the cabin wall
just below the hatch opening and, is 36" long. It does not have a stopper
knot at 17"-18" above the cockpit floor opening.
It appears that the depth of the board is controlled by the amount of line
let out and then secured on the cleat. I intend to install a 180 deg.
swiveling cleat platform with a c-cleat (WM model. 505456 pg.976) left over
from my prior boat so as to have infinite depth control with out having to
tie off. I have not had it in the water so do not know how far down the CB
will go. Do you know if the CB had an original mold?
A picture would be helpful information as I go forward. The 17"-18"
information will be used to mark the pennant so as not the have the CB hit
the CB trunk at the front end.
Thanks for the feed back great support group.
Will post pictures when I am done in the next week or so,
George
-----Original Message-----
From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David
Scobie
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 7:28 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
George:
the pennant should have stop knot (figure-8 knot) about 17"-18" above where
comes up into the cockpit. i sailed my M15, and the Glessers', with the knot
about 1" from 'going into the trunk'. i can share a picture from the
Glesser's M15 if needed.
the M15's centerboard 'in-trunk forward edge' will hit the forward end of
the centerboard trunk if it is over extended. the board is still in the
truck at this stage and not correctly supported.
now this is for Jerry's boats ... which your boat is not. the pictures of
your boat i have don't show the centerboard pennant clearly. so, i don't
know if the one (or two) boats built buy Chuck (aka, American Classics) are
to Jerry's spec.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Fri, 5/10/13, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Dave
How does the CB system know not to drop the center board
beyond the proper
distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk?
George
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8582 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
15" up from, the top of the thwart. Sorry. The board has 15" of total lift. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 11:42 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 - centerboardrope
Jerry, I need to admit to my ignorance, because I am also concerned about the centerboard rope on my M-15, # 335, which you built in 1985. If I tie the knot at 15 inches, my question is 15 inches from what, where to I put the end of the ruler? Steve M-15 # 335
----- Original Message ----- From: "jerry montgomery" <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 10:42 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
Doug is correct- we set them At 15" at the factory. If the knot isn't pretty tight it will tend to migrate, so watch it. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Kelch" <doug1kelch@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 9:32 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
I believe 17 to 18 inchs is too much. With the boat in the water, ease the board down (without a stopper knot) until it bottoms out. Put tension on the line, marke the line where it needs to stop an pull the board back up. The tie the stopper knot so that the mark is about 1 inch above the point that will jamb the stopper knot. This will allow for an inch of stretch in the rope if you accidentally let it free fall.
Thanks
Doug Kelch M15 G #310 "Seas the Day"
On Sat, May 11, 2013 at 7:26 PM, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com>wrote:
John
Thanks for the feedback now see the need for the stopper knot at the 17"-18" distance will have to set mine up as specified. May not be able to use the proposed hardware and the stopper knot will prevent it's use.
George
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com ] On Behalf Of John Tyner Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 9:14 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
If I remember correctly, the M-15 centerboard was designed with a small
tab built in which was intended to stop it from dropping to far (and
pivoting forward into the trunk). Of course, the difficulty with that
was if you simply dropped the centerboard uncontrolled the tab would
eventually break off from impacting its stop, and if left to rest on its
stop while underway wave action could eventually lead to tab failure,
too. The purpose of the stopper knot is to keep the board and tab just
above this position (which is where Jerry designed it to be deployed).
Hope I'm not confusing the 15, 17, and 23. There's also a little
centerboard info here
(http://www.msog.org/how-to/how-to_flotjet.cfm#cb_snips) if you haven't
already seen it.
---------------
John Tyner
M-15 #412 "Chimpanzee"
On 5/11/2013 12:24 AM, George Iemmolo wrote:
Dave
As I understand it 'AC' used the original molds so the orientation of the CB
keel trunk and the opening in the cockpit should be the same as original
designed. I just checked my boat and the CB pennant, goes thru the center
opening of a 6" cleat mounted horizontally on the side of the cabin wall
just below the hatch opening and, is 36" long. It does not have a stopper
knot at 17"-18" above the cockpit floor opening.
It appears that the depth of the board is controlled by the amount of line
let out and then secured on the cleat. I intend to install a 180 deg.
swiveling cleat platform with a c-cleat (WM model. 505456 pg.976) left over
from my prior boat so as to have infinite depth control with out having to
tie off. I have not had it in the water so do not know how far down the CB
will go. Do you know if the CB had an original mold?
A picture would be helpful information as I go forward. The 17"-18"
information will be used to mark the pennant so as not the have the CB hit
the CB trunk at the front end.
Thanks for the feed back great support group.
Will post pictures when I am done in the next week or so,
George
-----Original Message-----
From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David
Scobie
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 7:28 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
George:
the pennant should have stop knot (figure-8 knot) about 17"-18" above where
comes up into the cockpit. i sailed my M15, and the Glessers', with the knot
about 1" from 'going into the trunk'. i can share a picture from the
Glesser's M15 if needed.
the M15's centerboard 'in-trunk forward edge' will hit the forward end of
the centerboard trunk if it is over extended. the board is still in the
truck at this stage and not correctly supported.
now this is for Jerry's boats ... which your boat is not. the pictures of
your boat i have don't show the centerboard pennant clearly. so, i don't
know if the one (or two) boats built buy Chuck (aka, American Classics) are
to Jerry's spec.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Fri, 5/10/13, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Dave
How does the CB system know not to drop the center board
beyond the proper
distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk?
George
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8582 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Thanx, Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "jerry montgomery" <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 12:04 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 - centerboardrope
15" up from, the top of the thwart. Sorry. The board has 15" of total lift.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 11:42 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 - centerboardrope
Jerry, I need to admit to my ignorance, because I am also concerned about the centerboard rope on my M-15, # 335, which you built in 1985. If I tie the knot at 15 inches, my question is 15 inches from what, where to I put the end of the ruler? Steve M-15 # 335
----- Original Message ----- From: "jerry montgomery" <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 10:42 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
Doug is correct- we set them At 15" at the factory. If the knot isn't pretty tight it will tend to migrate, so watch it. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Kelch" <doug1kelch@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 9:32 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
I believe 17 to 18 inchs is too much. With the boat in the water, ease the board down (without a stopper knot) until it bottoms out. Put tension on the line, marke the line where it needs to stop an pull the board back up. The tie the stopper knot so that the mark is about 1 inch above the point that will jamb the stopper knot. This will allow for an inch of stretch in the rope if you accidentally let it free fall.
Thanks
Doug Kelch M15 G #310 "Seas the Day"
On Sat, May 11, 2013 at 7:26 PM, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com>wrote:
John
Thanks for the feedback now see the need for the stopper knot at the 17"-18" distance will have to set mine up as specified. May not be able to use the proposed hardware and the stopper knot will prevent it's use.
George
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com ] On Behalf Of John Tyner Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 9:14 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
If I remember correctly, the M-15 centerboard was designed with a small
tab built in which was intended to stop it from dropping to far (and
pivoting forward into the trunk). Of course, the difficulty with that
was if you simply dropped the centerboard uncontrolled the tab would
eventually break off from impacting its stop, and if left to rest on its
stop while underway wave action could eventually lead to tab failure,
too. The purpose of the stopper knot is to keep the board and tab just
above this position (which is where Jerry designed it to be deployed).
Hope I'm not confusing the 15, 17, and 23. There's also a little
centerboard info here
(http://www.msog.org/how-to/how-to_flotjet.cfm#cb_snips) if you haven't
already seen it.
---------------
John Tyner
M-15 #412 "Chimpanzee"
On 5/11/2013 12:24 AM, George Iemmolo wrote:
Dave
As I understand it 'AC' used the original molds so the orientation of the CB
keel trunk and the opening in the cockpit should be the same as original
designed. I just checked my boat and the CB pennant, goes thru the center
opening of a 6" cleat mounted horizontally on the side of the cabin wall
just below the hatch opening and, is 36" long. It does not have a stopper
knot at 17"-18" above the cockpit floor opening.
It appears that the depth of the board is controlled by the amount of line
let out and then secured on the cleat. I intend to install a 180 deg.
swiveling cleat platform with a c-cleat (WM model. 505456 pg.976) left over
from my prior boat so as to have infinite depth control with out having to
tie off. I have not had it in the water so do not know how far down the CB
will go. Do you know if the CB had an original mold?
A picture would be helpful information as I go forward. The 17"-18"
information will be used to mark the pennant so as not the have the CB hit
the CB trunk at the front end.
Thanks for the feed back great support group.
Will post pictures when I am done in the next week or so,
George
-----Original Message-----
From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David
Scobie
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 7:28 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
George:
the pennant should have stop knot (figure-8 knot) about 17"-18" above where
comes up into the cockpit. i sailed my M15, and the Glessers', with the knot
about 1" from 'going into the trunk'. i can share a picture from the
Glesser's M15 if needed.
the M15's centerboard 'in-trunk forward edge' will hit the forward end of
the centerboard trunk if it is over extended. the board is still in the
truck at this stage and not correctly supported.
now this is for Jerry's boats ... which your boat is not. the pictures of
your boat i have don't show the centerboard pennant clearly. so, i don't
know if the one (or two) boats built buy Chuck (aka, American Classics) are
to Jerry's spec.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Fri, 5/10/13, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Dave
>
> How does the CB system know not to drop the center board
> beyond the proper
> distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk?
>
>
> George
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8582 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Jerry I am interpreting that as from the top of the pennant hole in the cockpit. Is that correct? George -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of jerry montgomery Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 2:04 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 - centerboardrope 15" up from, the top of the thwart. Sorry. The board has 15" of total lift. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "stevetrapp" <stevetrapp@q.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 11:42 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Montgomery 15 - centerboardrope
Jerry, I need to admit to my ignorance, because I am also concerned about the centerboard rope on my M-15, # 335, which you built in 1985. If I tie the knot at 15 inches, my question is 15 inches from what, where to I put the end of the ruler? Steve M-15 # 335
----- Original Message ----- From: "jerry montgomery" <jerry@jerrymontgomery.org> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 10:42 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
Doug is correct- we set them At 15" at the factory. If the knot isn't pretty tight it will tend to migrate, so watch it. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Kelch" <doug1kelch@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 9:32 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
I believe 17 to 18 inchs is too much. With the boat in the water, ease the board down (without a stopper knot) until it bottoms out. Put tension on the line, marke the line where it needs to stop an pull the board back up. The tie the stopper knot so that the mark is about 1 inch above the point that will jamb the stopper knot. This will allow for an inch of stretch
in the rope if you accidentally let it free fall.
Thanks
Doug Kelch M15 G #310 "Seas the Day"
On Sat, May 11, 2013 at 7:26 PM, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com>wrote:
John
Thanks for the feedback now see the need for the stopper knot at the 17"-18" distance will have to set mine up as specified. May not be able to use the proposed hardware and the stopper knot will prevent it's use.
George
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com
] On Behalf Of John Tyner Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 9:14 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
If I remember correctly, the M-15 centerboard was designed with a small
tab built in which was intended to stop it from dropping to far (and
pivoting forward into the trunk). Of course, the difficulty with that
was if you simply dropped the centerboard uncontrolled the tab would
eventually break off from impacting its stop, and if left to rest on its
stop while underway wave action could eventually lead to tab failure,
too. The purpose of the stopper knot is to keep the board and tab just
above this position (which is where Jerry designed it to be deployed).
Hope I'm not confusing the 15, 17, and 23. There's also a little
centerboard info here
(http://www.msog.org/how-to/how-to_flotjet.cfm#cb_snips) if you haven't
already seen it.
---------------
John Tyner
M-15 #412 "Chimpanzee"
On 5/11/2013 12:24 AM, George Iemmolo wrote:
Dave
As I understand it 'AC' used the original molds so the orientation of
the CB
keel trunk and the opening in the cockpit should be the same as original
designed. I just checked my boat and the CB pennant, goes thru the center
opening of a 6" cleat mounted horizontally on the side of the cabin wall
just below the hatch opening and, is 36" long. It does not have a stopper
knot at 17"-18" above the cockpit floor opening.
It appears that the depth of the board is controlled by the amount of line
let out and then secured on the cleat. I intend to install a 180 deg.
swiveling cleat platform with a c-cleat (WM model. 505456 pg.976) left over
from my prior boat so as to have infinite depth control with out having to
tie off. I have not had it in the water so do not know how far down
the CB
will go. Do you know if the CB had an original mold?
A picture would be helpful information as I go forward. The 17"-18"
information will be used to mark the pennant so as not the have the CB hit
the CB trunk at the front end.
Thanks for the feed back great support group.
Will post pictures when I am done in the next week or so,
George
-----Original Message-----
From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David
Scobie
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 7:28 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
George:
the pennant should have stop knot (figure-8 knot) about 17"-18" above where
comes up into the cockpit. i sailed my M15, and the Glessers', with the knot
about 1" from 'going into the trunk'. i can share a picture from the
Glesser's M15 if needed.
the M15's centerboard 'in-trunk forward edge' will hit the forward end of
the centerboard trunk if it is over extended. the board is still in the
truck at this stage and not correctly supported.
now this is for Jerry's boats ... which your boat is not. the pictures of
your boat i have don't show the centerboard pennant clearly. so, i don't
know if the one (or two) boats built buy Chuck (aka, American Classics) are
to Jerry's spec.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Fri, 5/10/13, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Dave
How does the CB system know not to drop the center board
beyond the proper
distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk?
George
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 8582 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len
Do you have a slow PC? Try a Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Good info Doug will do later this week George -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Douglas Kelch Sent: Sunday, May 12, 2013 11:33 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture I believe 17 to 18 inchs is too much. With the boat in the water, ease the board down (without a stopper knot) until it bottoms out. Put tension on the line, marke the line where it needs to stop an pull the board back up. The tie the stopper knot so that the mark is about 1 inch above the point that will jamb the stopper knot. This will allow for an inch of stretch in the rope if you accidentally let it free fall. Thanks Doug Kelch M15 G #310 "Seas the Day" On Sat, May 11, 2013 at 7:26 PM, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com>wrote:
John
Thanks for the feedback now see the need for the stopper knot at the 17"-18" distance will have to set mine up as specified. May not be able to use the proposed hardware and the stopper knot will prevent it's use.
George
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+griemmolo2=gmail.com@mailman.xmission.com ] On Behalf Of John Tyner Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2013 9:14 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
If I remember correctly, the M-15 centerboard was designed with a small
tab built in which was intended to stop it from dropping to far (and
pivoting forward into the trunk). Of course, the difficulty with that
was if you simply dropped the centerboard uncontrolled the tab would
eventually break off from impacting its stop, and if left to rest on its
stop while underway wave action could eventually lead to tab failure,
too. The purpose of the stopper knot is to keep the board and tab just
above this position (which is where Jerry designed it to be deployed).
Hope I'm not confusing the 15, 17, and 23. There's also a little
centerboard info here
(http://www.msog.org/how-to/how-to_flotjet.cfm#cb_snips) if you haven't
already seen it.
---------------
John Tyner
M-15 #412 "Chimpanzee"
On 5/11/2013 12:24 AM, George Iemmolo wrote:
Dave
As I understand it 'AC' used the original molds so the orientation of the CB
keel trunk and the opening in the cockpit should be the same as original
designed. I just checked my boat and the CB pennant, goes thru the center
opening of a 6" cleat mounted horizontally on the side of the cabin wall
just below the hatch opening and, is 36" long. It does not have a stopper
knot at 17"-18" above the cockpit floor opening.
It appears that the depth of the board is controlled by the amount of line
let out and then secured on the cleat. I intend to install a 180 deg.
swiveling cleat platform with a c-cleat (WM model. 505456 pg.976) left over
from my prior boat so as to have infinite depth control with out having to
tie off. I have not had it in the water so do not know how far down the CB
will go. Do you know if the CB had an original mold?
A picture would be helpful information as I go forward. The 17"-18"
information will be used to mark the pennant so as not the have the CB hit
the CB trunk at the front end.
Thanks for the feed back great support group.
Will post pictures when I am done in the next week or so,
George
-----Original Message-----
From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com
[mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David
Scobie
Sent: Friday, May 10, 2013 7:28 PM
To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats
Subject: Re: M_Boats: Bottom Paint On Montgomery 15 - centerboard picture
George:
the pennant should have stop knot (figure-8 knot) about 17"-18" above where
comes up into the cockpit. i sailed my M15, and the Glessers', with the knot
about 1" from 'going into the trunk'. i can share a picture from the
Glesser's M15 if needed.
the M15's centerboard 'in-trunk forward edge' will hit the forward end of
the centerboard trunk if it is over extended. the board is still in the
truck at this stage and not correctly supported.
now this is for Jerry's boats ... which your boat is not. the pictures of
your boat i have don't show the centerboard pennant clearly. so, i don't
know if the one (or two) boats built buy Chuck (aka, American Classics) are
to Jerry's spec.
:: Dave Scobie
--- On Fri, 5/10/13, George Iemmolo <griemmolo2@gmail.com> wrote:
Dave
How does the CB system know not to drop the center board
beyond the proper
distance to keep the non foiled edge in the trunk?
George
participants (8)
-
Bill Wickett -
Douglas Kelch -
George Iemmolo -
jerry montgomery -
John Tyner -
stevetrapp -
W David Scobie -
wcampion＠aol.com