The subject of anchoring has been covered pretty well, but I would like to add one comment. Retrieval from the stern is fine when things are quiet and calm, but if things start to get dicey in your anchorage, trying to pull in your anchor from the cockpit while your boat is laying broadside or quartering stern-to in the wind and waves is not good. Likewise, trying to haul it in from a bouncing foredeck, hunched over with an aching back and trying to hold on while pulling up the rode while your motor is cavitating is not too good either. I've come up with a technique that has worked well in these conditions. So well, in fact, that I use it all the time. On CornDog, my M17, the anchor lives in a large tupperware type tub in the port cockpit locker. The anchor is deployed over the side while traveling forward, cleated off on the stern, and then walked forward and cleated to the bow. The tub and extra rode stays in the locker, with the tail of the rode running from the bow cleat back along the toe rail, over the coaming, and under a corner of the locker lid. To raise the anchor, I take a wrap around the port winch with the tail of the rode and cleat it off. Then I go forward, uncleat the rode from the bow cleat and put it in a snatch block hung from the bow pulpit. The boat is now still anchored facing forward into the waves, but the line can be handled from the cockpit. Pulling it up is simply a matter of pulling on the rode coming from the winch and letting it tail naturally into the tub in the open locker right below. The boat stays straight and in control, you're hoisting from a position better for your back, and you're handy to the motor controls. If your anchor is hung up, you're already on the winch and can crank with a winch handle if needed. Obviously, you can only raise the anchor until your chain gets to the snatch block. For this reason, I only use 10 feet of chain. By the time the chain gets to the snatch block the anchor is off the bottom. If things are calm I'll walk forward, release it from the snatch block, let it swing back to the cockpit, and finish the retrieve. If things are still dicey or crowded, I'll let the anchor and chain dangle from the bow and motor out to where there is more room and depth to release it from the bow. To compensate for the shorter chain, if I'm worried about my anchor holding, I'll slide and 10 lb. mushroom anchor down the rode on a carabiner. Works the same as extra chain to keep the pull horizontal on the anchor itself. Larry Yake M17 CornDog "In a powerboat you get there sooner, in a sailboat you're already there."
Been a lot of good anchoring discussion here lately. Depending on weather we might only have 1 opportunity left this season. Larry, I know what you mean about trying to retrieve from the stern in sporting conditions. Nothing worse than trying to haul backwards or stern quarter to waves and wind. Thanks for the snatch block on the pulpit idea. Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622 On Tue, Sep 25, 2012 at 12:52 AM, Larry E Yake <leyake@juno.com> wrote:
The subject of anchoring has been covered pretty well, but I would like to add one comment. Retrieval from the stern is fine when things are quiet and calm, but if things start to get dicey in your anchorage, trying to pull in your anchor from the cockpit while your boat is laying broadside or quartering stern-to in the wind and waves is not good. Likewise, trying to haul it in from a bouncing foredeck, hunched over with an aching back and trying to hold on while pulling up the rode while your motor is cavitating is not too good either. I've come up with a technique that has worked well in these conditions. So well, in fact, that I use it all the time. On CornDog, my M17, the anchor lives in a large tupperware type tub in the port cockpit locker. The anchor is deployed over the side while traveling forward, cleated off on the stern, and then walked forward and cleated to the bow. The tub and extra rode stays in the locker, with the tail of the rode running from the bow cleat back along the toe rail, over the coaming, and under a corner of the locker lid. To raise the anchor, I take a wrap around the port winch with the tail of the rode and cleat it off. Then I go forward, uncleat the rode from the bow cleat and put it in a snatch block hung from the bow pulpit. The boat is now still anchored facing forward into the waves, but the line can be handled from the cockpit. Pulling it up is simply a matter of pulling on the rode coming from the winch and letting it tail naturally into the tub in the open locker right below. The boat stays straight and in control, you're hoisting from a position better for your back, and you're handy to the motor controls. If your anchor is hung up, you're already on the winch and can crank with a winch handle if needed. Obviously, you can only raise the anchor until your chain gets to the snatch block. For this reason, I only use 10 feet of chain. By the time the chain gets to the snatch block the anchor is off the bottom. If things are calm I'll walk forward, release it from the snatch block, let it swing back to the cockpit, and finish the retrieve. If things are still dicey or crowded, I'll let the anchor and chain dangle from the bow and motor out to where there is more room and depth to release it from the bow. To compensate for the shorter chain, if I'm worried about my anchor holding, I'll slide and 10 lb. mushroom anchor down the rode on a carabiner. Works the same as extra chain to keep the pull horizontal on the anchor itself.
Larry Yake M17 CornDog "In a powerboat you get there sooner, in a sailboat you're already there."
I agree. Thanks for all of the helpful information regarding anchoring. Food for thought for me and my M15 Daniel On Sep 25, 2012, at 7:06 AM, Bill Wickett wrote:
Been a lot of good anchoring discussion here lately. Depending on weather we might only have 1 opportunity left this season.
Larry, I know what you mean about trying to retrieve from the stern in sporting conditions. Nothing worse than trying to haul backwards or stern quarter to waves and wind. Thanks for the snatch block on the pulpit idea.
Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 #622
On Tue, Sep 25, 2012 at 12:52 AM, Larry E Yake <leyake@juno.com> wrote:
The subject of anchoring has been covered pretty well, but I would like to add one comment. Retrieval from the stern is fine when things are quiet and calm, but if things start to get dicey in your anchorage, trying to pull in your anchor from the cockpit while your boat is laying broadside or quartering stern-to in the wind and waves is not good. Likewise, trying to haul it in from a bouncing foredeck, hunched over with an aching back and trying to hold on while pulling up the rode while your motor is cavitating is not too good either. I've come up with a technique that has worked well in these conditions. So well, in fact, that I use it all the time. On CornDog, my M17, the anchor lives in a large tupperware type tub in the port cockpit locker. The anchor is deployed over the side while traveling forward, cleated off on the stern, and then walked forward and cleated to the bow. The tub and extra rode stays in the locker, with the tail of the rode running from the bow cleat back along the toe rail, over the coaming, and under a corner of the locker lid. To raise the anchor, I take a wrap around the port winch with the tail of the rode and cleat it off. Then I go forward, uncleat the rode from the bow cleat and put it in a snatch block hung from the bow pulpit. The boat is now still anchored facing forward into the waves, but the line can be handled from the cockpit. Pulling it up is simply a matter of pulling on the rode coming from the winch and letting it tail naturally into the tub in the open locker right below. The boat stays straight and in control, you're hoisting from a position better for your back, and you're handy to the motor controls. If your anchor is hung up, you're already on the winch and can crank with a winch handle if needed. Obviously, you can only raise the anchor until your chain gets to the snatch block. For this reason, I only use 10 feet of chain. By the time the chain gets to the snatch block the anchor is off the bottom. If things are calm I'll walk forward, release it from the snatch block, let it swing back to the cockpit, and finish the retrieve. If things are still dicey or crowded, I'll let the anchor and chain dangle from the bow and motor out to where there is more room and depth to release it from the bow. To compensate for the shorter chain, if I'm worried about my anchor holding, I'll slide and 10 lb. mushroom anchor down the rode on a carabiner. Works the same as extra chain to keep the pull horizontal on the anchor itself.
Larry Yake M17 CornDog "In a powerboat you get there sooner, in a sailboat you're already there."
during the MSOG San Juan and Gulf Islands trip in 2011 i watched Larry 'doing his thing' many times. Larry's system is really good and efficient. he make it look easy! as CORN DOG will be at HPCC 2013 arrangements should be made to shoot a video of Larry's system and then posting on the net for all to see (and learn). Larry has lots of good systems ... if you can attend HPCC 2013 be sure to stop and take a look at CORN DOG. there is not a better maintained M17 on the water. the boat looks better than when she was delivered to her first owner. :: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com --- On Mon, 9/24/12, Larry E Yake <leyake@juno.com> wrote:
The subject of anchoring has been covered pretty well, but I would like to add one comment. Retrieval from the stern is fine when things are quiet and calm, but if things start to get dicey in your anchorage, trying to pull in your anchor from the cockpit while your boat is laying broadside or quartering stern-to in the wind and waves is not good. Likewise, trying to haul it in from a bouncing foredeck, hunched over with an aching back and trying to hold on while pulling up the rode while your motor is cavitating is not too good either. I've come up with a technique that has worked well in these conditions. So well, in fact, that I use it all the time. On CornDog, my M17, the anchor lives in a large tupperware type tub in the port cockpit locker. The anchor is deployed over the side while traveling forward, cleated off on the stern, and then walked forward and cleated to the bow. The tub and extra rode stays in the locker, with the tail of the rode running from the bow cleat back along the toe rail, over the coaming, and under a corner of the locker lid. To raise the anchor, I take a wrap around the port winch with the tail of the rode and cleat it off. Then I go forward, uncleat the rode from the bow cleat and put it in a snatch block hung from the bow pulpit. The boat is now still anchored facing forward into the waves, but the line can be handled from the cockpit. Pulling it up is simply a matter of pulling on the rode coming from the winch and letting it tail naturally into the tub in the open locker right below. The boat stays straight and in control, you're hoisting from a position better for your back, and you're handy to the motor controls. If your anchor is hung up, you're already on the winch and can crank with a winch handle if needed. Obviously, you can only raise the anchor until your chain gets to the snatch block. For this reason, I only use 10 feet of chain. By the time the chain gets to the snatch block the anchor is off the bottom. If things are calm I'll walk forward, release it from the snatch block, let it swing back to the cockpit, and finish the retrieve. If things are still dicey or crowded, I'll let the anchor and chain dangle from the bow and motor out to where there is more room and depth to release it from the bow. To compensate for the shorter chain, if I'm worried about my anchor holding, I'll slide and 10 lb. mushroom anchor down the rode on a carabiner. Works the same as extra chain to keep the pull horizontal on the anchor itself.
Larry Yake M17 CornDog "In a powerboat you get there sooner, in a sailboat you're already there."
Good writeup Larry! And as you know, I've tried your technique and I like it a lot. GARY ~~~~_/) ~~~~ M17 Hydeaway 2 GARY ~~~~_/) ~~~~ M17 Hydeaway 2 On Sep 24, 2012, at 9:52 PM, Larry E Yake <leyake@juno.com> wrote:
The subject of anchoring has been covered pretty well, but I would like to add one comment. Retrieval from the stern is fine when things are quiet and calm, but if things start to get dicey in your anchorage, trying to pull in your anchor from the cockpit while your boat is laying broadside or quartering stern-to in the wind and waves is not good. Likewise, trying to haul it in from a bouncing foredeck, hunched over with an aching back and trying to hold on while pulling up the rode while your motor is cavitating is not too good either. I've come up with a technique that has worked well in these conditions. So well, in fact, that I use it all the time. On CornDog, my M17, the anchor lives in a large tupperware type tub in the port cockpit locker. The anchor is deployed over the side while traveling forward, cleated off on the stern, and then walked forward and cleated to the bow. The tub and extra rode stays in the locker, with the tail of the rode running from the bow cleat back along the toe rail, over the coaming, and under a corner of the locker lid. To raise the anchor, I take a wrap around the port winch with the tail of the rode and cleat it off. Then I go forward, uncleat the rode from the bow cleat and put it in a snatch block hung from the bow pulpit. The boat is now still anchored facing forward into the waves, but the line can be handled from the cockpit. Pulling it up is simply a matter of pulling on the rode coming from the winch and letting it tail naturally into the tub in the open locker right below. The boat stays straight and in control, you're hoisting from a position better for your back, and you're handy to the motor controls. If your anchor is hung up, you're already on the winch and can crank with a winch handle if needed. Obviously, you can only raise the anchor until your chain gets to the snatch block. For this reason, I only use 10 feet of chain. By the time the chain gets to the snatch block the anchor is off the bottom. If things are calm I'll walk forward, release it from the snatch block, let it swing back to the cockpit, and finish the retrieve. If things are still dicey or crowded, I'll let the anchor and chain dangle from the bow and motor out to where there is more room and depth to release it from the bow. To compensate for the shorter chain, if I'm worried about my anchor holding, I'll slide and 10 lb. mushroom anchor down the rode on a carabiner. Works the same as extra chain to keep the pull horizontal on the anchor itself.
Larry Yake M17 CornDog "In a powerboat you get there sooner, in a sailboat you're already there."
participants (5)
-
Bill Wickett -
Daniel Rich -
GARY M HYDE -
Larry E Yake -
W David Scobie