I use permatex as well. Regardless of brand however, the higher the copper content the better. Tom Smith & Jane VanWinkle M15/345--Chukar M17/064--Unnamed I use COPPER ANTI-SIEZE lubricant from Permatex. It has worked well so far but I haven't been using it long enough to claim a good test. The stainless screws have been in the aluminum boom for 2 1/2 years - so far no signs of corosion. Thanks Doug --- "Craig F. Honshell" <chonshell@ia4u.net> wrote:
I'm assuming you use that stuff on the threads to prevent galvanic corrosion, right Doug? What do you use? Thanks, Craig
----- Original Message ----- From: Doug Kelch To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 4:20 PM Subject: RE: M_Boats: Jiffy reefing system
Sandra,
Tod has the link correct. I did not install the cheek block in the picture. I did put the pad eye in front of the cheek block in for the second reef point. I do not use pop rivets. I use self taping stainless steel screws with a corosion preventing grease on the threads.
Thanks
Doug Kelch
--- htmills@bright.net wrote:
Sandra,
Perhaps you are thinking of Doug Kelch's funtigo site?
http://www.funtigo.com/dkelch?b=215326&p=start&c=1802951
Tod
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two other options are: tef-gel duralac No idea which is the best option, although someone on the Tartan list recently favored duralac. Tod Mills M17 #408 BuscaBrisas -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+htmills=bright.net@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Tom Smith Sent: Monday, August 01, 2005 3:20 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: RE: M_Boats: galvanic I use permatex as well. Regardless of brand however, the higher the copper content the better. Tom Smith & Jane VanWinkle M15/345--Chukar M17/064--Unnamed I use COPPER ANTI-SIEZE lubricant from Permatex. It has worked well so far but I haven't been using it long enough to claim a good test. The stainless screws have been in the aluminum boom for 2 1/2 years - so far no signs of corosion. Thanks Doug --- "Craig F. Honshell" <chonshell@ia4u.net> wrote:
I'm assuming you use that stuff on the threads to prevent galvanic corrosion, right Doug? What do you use? Thanks, Craig
----- Original Message ----- From: Doug Kelch To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 4:20 PM Subject: RE: M_Boats: Jiffy reefing system
Sandra,
Tod has the link correct. I did not install the cheek block in the picture. I did put the pad eye in front of the cheek block in for the second reef point. I do not use pop rivets. I use self taping stainless steel screws with a corosion preventing grease on the threads.
Thanks
Doug Kelch
--- htmills@bright.net wrote:
Sandra,
Perhaps you are thinking of Doug Kelch's funtigo site?
http://www.funtigo.com/dkelch?b=215326&p=start&c=1802951
Tod
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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I'm going to buy a new Montgomery 15 next year. I sail a larger boat now and want to downsize... I've heard the M15 sets up pretty quickly. Any thoughts on how long it takes to set up and take down from your experience would be appreciated. I guess the new ones have a loose footed main any thoughts on that change? I'm looking forward to being an M15 owner and have enjoyed reading all the posts here. Thanks for your input. Christian Fusselman
Christian, Once you have put a little thought into how you set your boat up for trailering, there is no reason you shouldn't be able to set her up in 15 or 20 minutes. You will only have 3 mast stays and the only stay you really need to disconnect for trailering is the forestay. We have a "Johnson lever" on our forestay and that makes setting up and taking down without stay adjustments every time, very quick. The side stays remain attached all the time and are held in place with a single bungie to the bow pulpit when we trailer. We store our boom with the sail on it in the cabin. The halyards and topping lift are all tied back to themselves and tied up snug on their cleats. The trolling motor and rudder also go in the cabin. We have a short mast carrier that fits in the rudder gudgeons. I put in a plug at the rear of the cockpit so hooking up the wiring for the motor is a 10 second job. The first few times you set up, it will probably take a bit longer. But, as you do it more and get practice, you will figure out easier ways of doing things and get the right little lines and bungies made up so everything just fits nice and goes quick. I like the loose footed mains'l. I've been thinking about having one made for our Flicka too. Much simpler. Rik cdfusselman@frontiernet.net wrote:
I'm going to buy a new Montgomery 15 next year. I sail a larger boat now and want to downsize...
I've heard the M15 sets up pretty quickly.
Any thoughts on how long it takes to set up and take down from your experience would be appreciated.
I guess the new ones have a loose footed main any thoughts on that change?
I'm looking forward to being an M15 owner and have enjoyed reading all the posts here.
Thanks for your input.
Christian Fusselman
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
I guess I'm slow. It usually takes me about 45 minutes--both ways. Maybe if I went sailing more, it'd take me less. But I tend toward perfection anyway. Bob Olson M-15 Sequel cdfusselman@frontiernet.net wrote:
I'm going to buy a new Montgomery 15 next year. I sail a larger boat now and want to downsize...
I've heard the M15 sets up pretty quickly.
Any thoughts on how long it takes to set up and take down from your experience would be appreciated.
I guess the new ones have a loose footed main any thoughts on that change?
I'm looking forward to being an M15 owner and have enjoyed reading all the posts here.
Thanks for your input.
Christian Fusselman
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
I'd like to know more about galvanic corrosion, if any M-List metallurgists can explain: Why would copper prevent galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminum, and why wouldn't copper cause galvanic corrosion to both? ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Smith To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Monday, August 01, 2005 4:19 PM Subject: RE: M_Boats: galvanic I use permatex as well. Regardless of brand however, the higher the copper content the better. Tom Smith & Jane VanWinkle M15/345--Chukar M17/064--Unnamed I use COPPER ANTI-SIEZE lubricant from Permatex. It has worked well so far but I haven't been using it long enough to claim a good test. The stainless screws have been in the aluminum boom for 2 1/2 years - so far no signs of corosion. Thanks Doug --- "Craig F. Honshell" <chonshell@ia4u.net> wrote:
I'm assuming you use that stuff on the threads to prevent galvanic corrosion, right Doug? What do you use? Thanks, Craig
----- Original Message ----- From: Doug Kelch To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Friday, July 29, 2005 4:20 PM Subject: RE: M_Boats: Jiffy reefing system
Sandra,
Tod has the link correct. I did not install the cheek block in the picture. I did put the pad eye in front of the cheek block in for the second reef point. I do not use pop rivets. I use self taping stainless steel screws with a corosion preventing grease on the threads.
Thanks
Doug Kelch
--- htmills@bright.net wrote:
Sandra,
Perhaps you are thinking of Doug Kelch's funtigo site?
http://www.funtigo.com/dkelch?b=215326&p=start&c=1802951
Tod
_______________________________________________
http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
__________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
participants (6)
-
Bob Olson -
cdfusselman＠frontiernet.net -
Craig F. Honshell -
htmills＠bright.net -
Rik Sandberg -
Tom Smith