I finally got an end of season Lake Michigan checkout and verification of my new cockpit check valve. It worked great. My son visiting from Charlotte was with me so only two aboard for this test. There was a nice wind, and average waves, and still warm enough to forget any jackets or long sleeves. No water came in, and we could hear a slight clicking as the valve opened and closed with the waves. Not a drop in the cockpit, after last year with 3 in the boat,the cold water kept coming in and running back in the cockpit making cold feet. I cut that short. The two people with me were relatives with no sailing knowledge. The valve has a 3/4 inch floating ball, and it is accessible by pulling out the poly carbonate valve seat cylinder which is is just a friction fit. And because I hadn't yet gotten around to making a small wireform spacer to prevent it; the wave action after a few hours sailing and motoring, the ball and seal worked their way out and let lots of water in. The parts were not lost however, because there is a stainless perf metal filter for keeping leaves and debris out of the drain. There is also an epoxied stainless tube over the centerboard rope. I am delighted at how well this worked and am looking forward to more testing opportunities. It is too late for sailing in Chicago this year. I am wondering about the potential for towing the boat down to the keys in hopes of finding good sailing weather and places to explore, and safe harbor at night. I don't think any of my family members could make it and so I would need to find someone to help me crew, or someone with a boat to sail with. Here are a couple photos of my check valve setup: https://www.dropbox.com/s/n8igwhsdyit5cyg/ChkValveFail.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/2oflc7ff4kaoykn/ChkValveParts.jpg The second link shows the essential valve parts(Valve tube, Rope tube, Perforated stainlessf filter, new wireform spacer setting below the two tubes, Teak cover board with forward lock pins and locking brass knob. One more subject. Although this is my 5th sailboat (bought last fall), I have never reefed a mainsail, although get the general idea, and I have tried it once on my M15, and it went well, and I will be wanting to do it more. So a few questions: 1. The reefing rope nearest the mast could go in the little pivot, swivel, stretch area to avoid rubbing on the thick mainsail bunched in that area. I avoided doing this. Am I right? 2. The following is a photo of my boom. I am using the side pulley and cleat for my outhaul. Is that what they are for? https://www.dropbox.com/s/d0fx4yn52ixrhd1/BoatBoom2.jpg 3. Do I need more hardware on my boom for reefing quickly and safely? 4. Is there a good video or photo or other reference for reefing the M15? Thanks, Jim Dahlquist Palatine, IL. jim@dhlqst.com
Jim, Glad your valve worked! Sailed my 15 down river in Wisconsin Sunday to take her out for the season and we had just enough water in the cockpit to make for wet and cold feet. I had forgotten the half inch thick rubber grate/mat I normally lay in on the deck which works to keep feet dry. As far as reefing, I could have used a a reef point but sailed as is in gusty conditions. Martha M 15 knot head Lake koshkonong Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 23, 2013, at 7:06 PM, Jim Dahlquist <jimdahlquist@gmail.com> wrote:
I finally got an end of season Lake Michigan checkout and verification of my new cockpit check valve. It worked great. My son visiting from Charlotte was with me so only two aboard for this test. There was a nice wind, and average waves, and still warm enough to forget any jackets or long sleeves. No water came in, and we could hear a slight clicking as the valve opened and closed with the waves. Not a drop in the cockpit, after last year with 3 in the boat,the cold water kept coming in and running back in the cockpit making cold feet. I cut that short. The two people with me were relatives with no sailing knowledge.
The valve has a 3/4 inch floating ball, and it is accessible by pulling out the poly carbonate valve seat cylinder which is is just a friction fit. And because I hadn't yet gotten around to making a small wireform spacer to prevent it; the wave action after a few hours sailing and motoring, the ball and seal worked their way out and let lots of water in. The parts were not lost however, because there is a stainless perf metal filter for keeping leaves and debris out of the drain. There is also an epoxied stainless tube over the centerboard rope. I am delighted at how well this worked and am looking forward to more testing opportunities. It is too late for sailing in Chicago this year.
I am wondering about the potential for towing the boat down to the keys in hopes of finding good sailing weather and places to explore, and safe harbor at night. I don't think any of my family members could make it and so I would need to find someone to help me crew, or someone with a boat to sail with.
Here are a couple photos of my check valve setup:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n8igwhsdyit5cyg/ChkValveFail.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/2oflc7ff4kaoykn/ChkValveParts.jpg
The second link shows the essential valve parts(Valve tube, Rope tube, Perforated stainlessf filter, new wireform spacer setting below the two tubes, Teak cover board with forward lock pins and locking brass knob.
One more subject. Although this is my 5th sailboat (bought last fall), I have never reefed a mainsail, although get the general idea, and I have tried it once on my M15, and it went well, and I will be wanting to do it more. So a few questions: 1. The reefing rope nearest the mast could go in the little pivot, swivel, stretch area to avoid rubbing on the thick mainsail bunched in that area. I avoided doing this. Am I right? 2. The following is a photo of my boom. I am using the side pulley and cleat for my outhaul. Is that what they are for? https://www.dropbox.com/s/d0fx4yn52ixrhd1/BoatBoom2.jpg 3. Do I need more hardware on my boom for reefing quickly and safely? 4. Is there a good video or photo or other reference for reefing the M15?
Thanks,
Jim Dahlquist Palatine, IL. jim@dhlqst.com
Jim: concerning your boom and reefing. not sure exactly what you are describing for the reef tack line at the mast. there should be a strap-eye on the port side of the mast. dead-end the reef's tack line on the strap-eye. run the line through the reef grommet. there should be a clam-cleat on the starboard side of the mast (about opposite of the strap-eye). run the line through the clam-cleat. on the boom the eye at the end, noted as #1, is for the outhaul .. but i recommend adding some hardware to make it work more effectively (can cover this later). the cheek block, #3, and the clam-cleat, #4, are for the reef's clew grommet. the reef's clew line is dead-ended on the strap eye that is located oppose the cheek block (port side of boom). run line through the reef's clew grommet, thru the cheek bock and then the clam-cleat. to reef drop main so the tack grommet is at the location the gooseneck rides. pull the clew line tight. pull the tack line tight. raise the main to tighten the luff. now you can clean up the reef, though not required, using the cringle lines (if you have a loose-foot main tie sail to itself, _not_ to the boom). not including 'cleaning up' with the cringle lines reefing should take <30 seconds. if needed let me know if you need photos. :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred -------------------------------------------- On Wed, 10/23/13, Jim Dahlquist <jimdahlquist@gmail.com> wrote: One more subject. Although this is my 5th sailboat (bought last fall), I have never reefed a mainsail, although get the general idea, and I have tried it once on my M15, and it went well, and I will be wanting to do it more. So a few questions: 1. The reefing rope nearest the mast could go in the little pivot, swivel, stretch area to avoid rubbing on the thick mainsail bunched in that area. I avoided doing this. Am I right? 2. The following is a photo of my boom. I am using the side pulley and cleat for my outhaul. Is that what they are for? https://www.dropbox.com/s/d0fx4yn52ixrhd1/BoatBoom2.jpg 3. Do I need more hardware on my boom for reefing quickly and safely? 4. Is there a good video or photo or other reference for reefing the M15? Thanks, Jim Dahlquist Palatine, IL. jim@dhlqst.com
Hi Dave Hope you will include photos to the whole group for the reef line set up. I had to write to you individually because for some reason, this just won't work to the group. Thanks, Pam Port Townsend, Wa On Oct 24, 2013, at 10:27 AM, W David Scobie wrote:
Jim:
concerning your boom and reefing.
not sure exactly what you are describing for the reef tack line at the mast. there should be a strap-eye on the port side of the mast. dead-end the reef's tack line on the strap-eye. run the line through the reef grommet. there should be a clam-cleat on the starboard side of the mast (about opposite of the strap-eye). run the line through the clam-cleat.
on the boom the eye at the end, noted as #1, is for the outhaul .. but i recommend adding some hardware to make it work more effectively (can cover this later).
the cheek block, #3, and the clam-cleat, #4, are for the reef's clew grommet. the reef's clew line is dead-ended on the strap eye that is located oppose the cheek block (port side of boom). run line through the reef's clew grommet, thru the cheek bock and then the clam-cleat.
to reef drop main so the tack grommet is at the location the gooseneck rides. pull the clew line tight. pull the tack line tight. raise the main to tighten the luff. now you can clean up the reef, though not required, using the cringle lines (if you have a loose-foot main tie sail to itself, _not_ to the boom). not including 'cleaning up' with the cringle lines reefing should take <30 seconds.
if needed let me know if you need photos.
:: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred
-------------------------------------------- On Wed, 10/23/13, Jim Dahlquist <jimdahlquist@gmail.com> wrote:
One more subject. Although this is my 5th sailboat (bought last fall), I have never reefed a mainsail, although get the general idea, and I have tried it once on my M15, and it went well, and I will be wanting to do it more. So a few questions: 1. The reefing rope nearest the mast could go in the little pivot, swivel, stretch area to avoid rubbing on the thick mainsail bunched in that area. I avoided doing this. Am I right? 2. The following is a photo of my boom. I am using the side pulley and cleat for my outhaul. Is that what they are for? https://www.dropbox.com/s/d0fx4yn52ixrhd1/BoatBoom2.jpg 3. Do I need more hardware on my boom for reefing quickly and safely? 4. Is there a good video or photo or other reference for reefing the M15?
Thanks,
Jim Dahlquist Palatine, IL. jim@dhlqst.com
Great post! It really clears things up for me regarding my new to me M15. I'd be very interested to learn your hardware recommendations to improve the outhaul. By the way, this is my first post, although I've been following the group for awhile. Lots of great information! Dale Langner M15 Dos Pasos -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of W David Scobie Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2013 12:28 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: standard reefing on an M15 Jim: concerning your boom and reefing. not sure exactly what you are describing for the reef tack line at the mast. there should be a strap-eye on the port side of the mast. dead-end the reef's tack line on the strap-eye. run the line through the reef grommet. there should be a clam-cleat on the starboard side of the mast (about opposite of the strap-eye). run the line through the clam-cleat. on the boom the eye at the end, noted as #1, is for the outhaul .. but i recommend adding some hardware to make it work more effectively (can cover this later). the cheek block, #3, and the clam-cleat, #4, are for the reef's clew grommet. the reef's clew line is dead-ended on the strap eye that is located oppose the cheek block (port side of boom). run line through the reef's clew grommet, thru the cheek bock and then the clam-cleat. to reef drop main so the tack grommet is at the location the gooseneck rides. pull the clew line tight. pull the tack line tight. raise the main to tighten the luff. now you can clean up the reef, though not required, using the cringle lines (if you have a loose-foot main tie sail to itself, _not_ to the boom). not including 'cleaning up' with the cringle lines reefing should take <30 seconds. if needed let me know if you need photos. :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred -------------------------------------------- On Wed, 10/23/13, Jim Dahlquist <jimdahlquist@gmail.com> wrote: One more subject. Although this is my 5th sailboat (bought last fall), I have never reefed a mainsail, although get the general idea, and I have tried it once on my M15, and it went well, and I will be wanting to do it more. So a few questions: 1. The reefing rope nearest the mast could go in the little pivot, swivel, stretch area to avoid rubbing on the thick mainsail bunched in that area. I avoided doing this. Am I right? 2. The following is a photo of my boom. I am using the side pulley and cleat for my outhaul. Is that what they are for? https://www.dropbox.com/s/d0fx4yn52ixrhd1/BoatBoom2.jpg 3. Do I need more hardware on my boom for reefing quickly and safely? 4. Is there a good video or photo or other reference for reefing the M15? Thanks, Jim Dahlquist Palatine, IL. jim@dhlqst.com ________________________________ CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: This email and any attachments are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and contain information that may be confidential and/or legally privileged. If you have received this email in error, please notify the sender by reply email and delete the message. Any disclosure, copying, distribution or use of this communication (including attachments) by someone other than the intended recipient is prohibited. Thank you.
Hi Dave, Thanks for the reply. I hope this is the right way to reply back using xmission. I confess that I never learned enough of the sailboat terminology that you are using. But here is an old photo of my mainsail where I looked up and added the terms for the six main parts of the sail. I think I really only knew two for sure. I also added numbers for the reefing eylets. Last winter I had slides added to the Luff, and now I see why I need them on the foot as well, for convenient reefing. I am attaching the mainsail and other photos of numbered or lettered items presently unused & unknown to me. Maybe some are for a spinnaker which I don't envision for myself. The items marked A,E & F are temporarily used by me for the topping lift that I added. The link is to a dropbox folder which I think is supposed to work https://www.dropbox.com/s/2phjkr3jsgo9594/MainSail-1.JPG https://www.dropbox.com/s/0v9o21vnmkoeluu/Unused-ABCDEF-Port.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/ia8caa0mtlmtr5b/Unused-GHIJ-Port.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/65djp3uix61ssk7/Unused-KL-Mast.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/cwht84ws2fom1p3/Unused-M-Starboard.jpg Jim Dahlquist Palatine, IL jim@dhlqst.com On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 12:27 PM, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
Jim:
concerning your boom and reefing.
not sure exactly what you are describing for the reef tack line at the mast. there should be a strap-eye on the port side of the mast. dead-end the reef's tack line on the strap-eye. run the line through the reef grommet. there should be a clam-cleat on the starboard side of the mast (about opposite of the strap-eye). run the line through the clam-cleat.
on the boom the eye at the end, noted as #1, is for the outhaul .. but i recommend adding some hardware to make it work more effectively (can cover this later).
the cheek block, #3, and the clam-cleat, #4, are for the reef's clew grommet. the reef's clew line is dead-ended on the strap eye that is located oppose the cheek block (port side of boom). run line through the reef's clew grommet, thru the cheek bock and then the clam-cleat.
to reef drop main so the tack grommet is at the location the gooseneck rides. pull the clew line tight. pull the tack line tight. raise the main to tighten the luff. now you can clean up the reef, though not required, using the cringle lines (if you have a loose-foot main tie sail to itself, _not_ to the boom). not including 'cleaning up' with the cringle lines reefing should take <30 seconds.
if needed let me know if you need photos.
:: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred
-------------------------------------------- On Wed, 10/23/13, Jim Dahlquist <jimdahlquist@gmail.com> wrote:
One more subject. Although this is my 5th sailboat (bought last fall), I have never reefed a mainsail, although get the general idea, and I have tried it once on my M15, and it went well, and I will be wanting to do it more. So a few questions: 1. The reefing rope nearest the mast could go in the little pivot, swivel, stretch area to avoid rubbing on the thick mainsail bunched in that area. I avoided doing this. Am I right? 2. The following is a photo of my boom. I am using the side pulley and cleat for my outhaul. Is that what they are for? https://www.dropbox.com/s/d0fx4yn52ixrhd1/BoatBoom2.jpg 3. Do I need more hardware on my boom for reefing quickly and safely? 4. Is there a good video or photo or other reference for reefing the M15?
Thanks,
Jim Dahlquist Palatine, IL. jim@dhlqst.com
Just looked at the images of you center M-15 drain. Good setup. I have my drain in the original "Jerry Montgomery" arrangement but I added stainless steel Chore Boy scrubbing pads as strainers / filters on either side of the drain under the teak cover. Seems to work well but I would like to know how to fit the stainless steel CB lifter. Good idea....Larry in old 189 M-15 Where can I get a check valve too? -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Jim Dahlquist Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 5:06 PM To: Sailboats Subject: M_Boats: M15 Checkout with new cockpit check valve I finally got an end of season Lake Michigan checkout and verification of my new cockpit check valve. It worked great. My son visiting from Charlotte was with me so only two aboard for this test. There was a nice wind, and average waves, and still warm enough to forget any jackets or long sleeves. No water came in, and we could hear a slight clicking as the valve opened and closed with the waves. Not a drop in the cockpit, after last year with 3 in the boat,the cold water kept coming in and running back in the cockpit making cold feet. I cut that short. The two people with me were relatives with no sailing knowledge. The valve has a 3/4 inch floating ball, and it is accessible by pulling out the poly carbonate valve seat cylinder which is is just a friction fit. And because I hadn't yet gotten around to making a small wireform spacer to prevent it; the wave action after a few hours sailing and motoring, the ball and seal worked their way out and let lots of water in. The parts were not lost however, because there is a stainless perf metal filter for keeping leaves and debris out of the drain. There is also an epoxied stainless tube over the centerboard rope. I am delighted at how well this worked and am looking forward to more testing opportunities. It is too late for sailing in Chicago this year. I am wondering about the potential for towing the boat down to the keys in hopes of finding good sailing weather and places to explore, and safe harbor at night. I don't think any of my family members could make it and so I would need to find someone to help me crew, or someone with a boat to sail with. Here are a couple photos of my check valve setup: https://www.dropbox.com/s/n8igwhsdyit5cyg/ChkValveFail.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/2oflc7ff4kaoykn/ChkValveParts.jpg The second link shows the essential valve parts(Valve tube, Rope tube, Perforated stainlessf filter, new wireform spacer setting below the two tubes, Teak cover board with forward lock pins and locking brass knob. One more subject. Although this is my 5th sailboat (bought last fall), I have never reefed a mainsail, although get the general idea, and I have tried it once on my M15, and it went well, and I will be wanting to do it more. So a few questions: 1. The reefing rope nearest the mast could go in the little pivot, swivel, stretch area to avoid rubbing on the thick mainsail bunched in that area. I avoided doing this. Am I right? 2. The following is a photo of my boom. I am using the side pulley and cleat for my outhaul. Is that what they are for? https://www.dropbox.com/s/d0fx4yn52ixrhd1/BoatBoom2.jpg 3. Do I need more hardware on my boom for reefing quickly and safely? 4. Is there a good video or photo or other reference for reefing the M15? Thanks, Jim Dahlquist Palatine, IL. jim@dhlqst.com
Hi Larry, I can help you with the parts, but the process was a considerable stress for me for several months, risking possible damage to my boat, etc. I am an electronic engineer, and not very familiar with fiberglass and epoxy boat construction or techniques. In fact I epoxied about a square foot of my driveway in the process. The valve and the rope tube(not a CB lifter) are made from parts McMaster Carr ( http://www.mcmaster.com ) and the epoxy and fiberglass come from West Marine. The valve is made from 3 sizes of concentric polyarbonate tubing, and a floating plastic ball. The rope tube is required because the CB rope comes through the same drain hole, and to prevent water from coming out around the rope the tube is used to set a higher level and smaller flow area for water to enter the cockpit. I also used a special wooden guide for the Dremel grinding tool to create room for the new drain tube. And I had to grind and shape a thin polycarb sheet to be able to pour epoxy from the cockpit without removing the CB. My cockpit now has a considerably smaller drain opening and therefore longer time to fully drain a full cockpit. Here is a video showing the check valve in a test: https://www.dropbox.com/s/eqh92lf6pyuigii/CheckValveTest.MOV Considering the effort in putting all of the details together, and not really knowing that my design or methods are of commercial quality and reliability, I a degree of concern as to what sort of responsibility I may incur for end results. Jim Dahlquist Palatine, IL jim@dhlqst.com On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 3:33 PM, Hughston, Larry@DGS < Larry.Hughston@dgs.ca.gov> wrote:
Just looked at the images of you center M-15 drain. Good setup. I have my drain in the original "Jerry Montgomery" arrangement but I added stainless steel Chore Boy scrubbing pads as strainers / filters on either side of the drain under the teak cover. Seems to work well but I would like to know how to fit the stainless steel CB lifter. Good idea....Larry in old 189 M-15 Where can I get a check valve too?
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Jim Dahlquist Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 5:06 PM To: Sailboats Subject: M_Boats: M15 Checkout with new cockpit check valve
I finally got an end of season Lake Michigan checkout and verification of my new cockpit check valve. It worked great. My son visiting from Charlotte was with me so only two aboard for this test. There was a nice wind, and average waves, and still warm enough to forget any jackets or long sleeves. No water came in, and we could hear a slight clicking as the valve opened and closed with the waves. Not a drop in the cockpit, after last year with 3 in the boat,the cold water kept coming in and running back in the cockpit making cold feet. I cut that short. The two people with me were relatives with no sailing knowledge.
The valve has a 3/4 inch floating ball, and it is accessible by pulling out the poly carbonate valve seat cylinder which is is just a friction fit. And because I hadn't yet gotten around to making a small wireform spacer to prevent it; the wave action after a few hours sailing and motoring, the ball and seal worked their way out and let lots of water in. The parts were not lost however, because there is a stainless perf metal filter for keeping leaves and debris out of the drain. There is also an epoxied stainless tube over the centerboard rope. I am delighted at how well this worked and am looking forward to more testing opportunities. It is too late for sailing in Chicago this year.
I am wondering about the potential for towing the boat down to the keys in hopes of finding good sailing weather and places to explore, and safe harbor at night. I don't think any of my family members could make it and so I would need to find someone to help me crew, or someone with a boat to sail with.
Here are a couple photos of my check valve setup:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n8igwhsdyit5cyg/ChkValveFail.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/2oflc7ff4kaoykn/ChkValveParts.jpg
The second link shows the essential valve parts(Valve tube, Rope tube, Perforated stainlessf filter, new wireform spacer setting below the two tubes, Teak cover board with forward lock pins and locking brass knob.
One more subject. Although this is my 5th sailboat (bought last fall), I have never reefed a mainsail, although get the general idea, and I have tried it once on my M15, and it went well, and I will be wanting to do it more. So a few questions: 1. The reefing rope nearest the mast could go in the little pivot, swivel, stretch area to avoid rubbing on the thick mainsail bunched in that area. I avoided doing this. Am I right? 2. The following is a photo of my boom. I am using the side pulley and cleat for my outhaul. Is that what they are for? https://www.dropbox.com/s/d0fx4yn52ixrhd1/BoatBoom2.jpg 3. Do I need more hardware on my boom for reefing quickly and safely? 4. Is there a good video or photo or other reference for reefing the M15?
Thanks,
Jim Dahlquist Palatine, IL. jim@dhlqst.com
Good video....thanks. Let me know how the real life on the water and wind work out...Larry H. with old 189 -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Jim Dahlquist Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2013 10:15 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: M15 Checkout with new cockpit check valve Hi Larry, I can help you with the parts, but the process was a considerable stress for me for several months, risking possible damage to my boat, etc. I am an electronic engineer, and not very familiar with fiberglass and epoxy boat construction or techniques. In fact I epoxied about a square foot of my driveway in the process. The valve and the rope tube(not a CB lifter) are made from parts McMaster Carr ( http://www.mcmaster.com ) and the epoxy and fiberglass come from West Marine. The valve is made from 3 sizes of concentric polyarbonate tubing, and a floating plastic ball. The rope tube is required because the CB rope comes through the same drain hole, and to prevent water from coming out around the rope the tube is used to set a higher level and smaller flow area for water to enter the cockpit. I also used a special wooden guide for the Dremel grinding tool to create room for the new drain tube. And I had to grind and shape a thin polycarb sheet to be able to pour epoxy from the cockpit without removing the CB. My cockpit now has a considerably smaller drain opening and therefore longer time to fully drain a full cockpit. Here is a video showing the check valve in a test: https://www.dropbox.com/s/eqh92lf6pyuigii/CheckValveTest.MOV Considering the effort in putting all of the details together, and not really knowing that my design or methods are of commercial quality and reliability, I a degree of concern as to what sort of responsibility I may incur for end results. Jim Dahlquist Palatine, IL jim@dhlqst.com On Thu, Oct 24, 2013 at 3:33 PM, Hughston, Larry@DGS < Larry.Hughston@dgs.ca.gov> wrote:
Just looked at the images of you center M-15 drain. Good setup. I have my drain in the original "Jerry Montgomery" arrangement but I added stainless steel Chore Boy scrubbing pads as strainers / filters on either side of the drain under the teak cover. Seems to work well but I would like to know how to fit the stainless steel CB lifter. Good idea....Larry in old 189 M-15 Where can I get a check valve too?
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Jim Dahlquist Sent: Wednesday, October 23, 2013 5:06 PM To: Sailboats Subject: M_Boats: M15 Checkout with new cockpit check valve
I finally got an end of season Lake Michigan checkout and verification of my new cockpit check valve. It worked great. My son visiting from Charlotte was with me so only two aboard for this test. There was a nice wind, and average waves, and still warm enough to forget any jackets or long sleeves. No water came in, and we could hear a slight clicking as the valve opened and closed with the waves. Not a drop in the cockpit, after last year with 3 in the boat,the cold water kept coming in and running back in the cockpit making cold feet. I cut that short. The two people with me were relatives with no sailing knowledge.
The valve has a 3/4 inch floating ball, and it is accessible by pulling out the poly carbonate valve seat cylinder which is is just a friction fit. And because I hadn't yet gotten around to making a small wireform spacer to prevent it; the wave action after a few hours sailing and motoring, the ball and seal worked their way out and let lots of water in. The parts were not lost however, because there is a stainless perf metal filter for keeping leaves and debris out of the drain. There is also an epoxied stainless tube over the centerboard rope. I am delighted at how well this worked and am looking forward to more testing opportunities. It is too late for sailing in Chicago this year.
I am wondering about the potential for towing the boat down to the keys in hopes of finding good sailing weather and places to explore, and safe harbor at night. I don't think any of my family members could make it and so I would need to find someone to help me crew, or someone with a boat to sail with.
Here are a couple photos of my check valve setup:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/n8igwhsdyit5cyg/ChkValveFail.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/2oflc7ff4kaoykn/ChkValveParts.jpg
The second link shows the essential valve parts(Valve tube, Rope tube, Perforated stainlessf filter, new wireform spacer setting below the two tubes, Teak cover board with forward lock pins and locking brass knob.
One more subject. Although this is my 5th sailboat (bought last fall), I have never reefed a mainsail, although get the general idea, and I have tried it once on my M15, and it went well, and I will be wanting to do it more. So a few questions: 1. The reefing rope nearest the mast could go in the little pivot, swivel, stretch area to avoid rubbing on the thick mainsail bunched in that area. I avoided doing this. Am I right? 2. The following is a photo of my boom. I am using the side pulley and cleat for my outhaul. Is that what they are for? https://www.dropbox.com/s/d0fx4yn52ixrhd1/BoatBoom2.jpg 3. Do I need more hardware on my boom for reefing quickly and safely? 4. Is there a good video or photo or other reference for reefing the M15?
Thanks,
Jim Dahlquist Palatine, IL. jim@dhlqst.com
participants (6)
-
Hughston, Larry＠DGS -
Jim Dahlquist -
Langner, Dale -
Martha Ekwurtzel -
pam and dana -
W David Scobie