I too have experienced a recurring leak in the joinng of the centerboard trunk with the cockpit mold on my M 15. It is a difficullt place to work and even the patches of fiberglass I've installed were hardly esthetically attractive but they did the trick. Any chop encountered resulted in leaking water into my two "dry stores" drawers I installed on either side of the trunk. Stan Carol II, M-15 #177
Stan - I know you alreaduy know this, but for the rest of them use EPOXY resin for repairs on old frabbergrass! It'll stick m uch better. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stan Winarski" <winarski@cox.net> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 6:55 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 103, Issue 6
I too have experienced a recurring leak in the joinng of the centerboard trunk with the cockpit mold on my M 15. It is a difficullt place to work and even the patches of fiberglass I've installed were hardly esthetically attractive but they did the trick. Any chop encountered resulted in leaking water into my two "dry stores" drawers I installed on either side of the trunk.
Stan Carol II, M-15 #177 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Hi everyone, It is October and sailing season has pretty much come to an end in Minnesota. I am looking to refurbish the wood on the 1981 monty 15 that I bought last winter. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on what worked well for them at any point in the process. From taking off the wood (which I am doing now) to sanding to making it look good, any help would be appreciated. Also the toe rail is wood and I want to take that off but I still need to transfer it to storage. Does the toe rail keep the top of the boat and the bottom of the boat attached? It looks like that is what is keeping it together and if I took it off I wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with it. Any thoughts? Thanks, Ted
Hi, Ted: Check out the varnishing tips from Don Casey, author of "This Old Boat," at his "how-to" website: http://www.boatus.com/boattech/howto_lib.htm I removed all the extremely weathered teak fixtures from my M-17, Sapphire, sanded them smooth and used Casey's priming and coat-building techniques to restore the boat's brightwork to a beautiful luster. I did not remove the teak toerails and instead opted to tape off, sand and varnish them with small brushes (some of them sponge brushes to get the inside surfaces). (I do think the deck is fastened to the hull with bolts through the toerail) Since then, I've only had to sand lightly and reapply varnish each spring to keep the wood looking great. In addition to thorough preparation, don't skimp on varnish quality. I found Epifanes Gloss varnish easy to apply and sand, great looking and durable. It's a bit pricey but worth it, in my opinion. Here's a link to the product at Defender Marine: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C10918%7C296162%7C10952%7C31150... On Oct 16, 2011, at 6:44 PM, Ted Weidenbach wrote:
Hi everyone,
It is October and sailing season has pretty much come to an end in Minnesota. I am looking to refurbish the wood on the 1981 monty 15 that I bought last winter. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on what worked well for them at any point in the process. From taking off the wood (which I am doing now) to sanding to making it look good, any help would be appreciated.
Also the toe rail is wood and I want to take that off but I still need to transfer it to storage. Does the toe rail keep the top of the boat and the bottom of the boat attached? It looks like that is what is keeping it together and if I took it off I wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with it. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Ted _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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jerry bonded the M15 deck to the hull before thru-bolting. the toe rail is also bedded to the deck as part of the thru-bolting process. this all means you have a DIFFICULT task to remove the toe rail and may damage the teak getting it off of the deck. the deck to hull joint has no balsa core so there is little reason to remove all those bolts, teak plugs, etc unless you have a known problem (i've only read of two instances of a hull/deck leak on one of jerry's boats ... a early, mid-70s M17 and an M23). the outboard flange and box hull/deck joint is really strong without the bolts installed and you need not worry that the deck will come off if you choose to remove the toe rail (again, i don't recommend you remove the toe rails). i suggest (i did it to my M15) you strip, clean and re-finish the toe rail in place. it is good maintenance to re-bed the deck hardware every seven-ish years. this protects the balsa core. this also makes it easier to refinish the teak. i have also refinished deck teak (on my M17 and M15) in place. be sure to follow the instructions for whatever you use when removing old finish so as not to damage the gelcoat. be careful when sanding so as not to damage the gelcoat. use finish of your personal choice. i prefer Dalys SeaFin Teak Oil. details on some of my refinishing work - http://m17-375.webs.com/apps/blog/show/1081975-teak-oiling-has-begun http://m17-375.webs.com/rebeddinghardware.htm :: Dave Scobie :: former M15 owner - www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - www.sagemarine.com --- On Sun, 10/16/11, Gordon Gilbert <gordon@financialwriting.net> wrote:
On Oct 16, 2011, at 6:44 PM, Ted Weidenbach wrote:
Hi everyone,
It is October and sailing season has pretty much come to an end in Minnesota. I am looking to refurbish the wood on the 1981 monty 15 that I bought last winter. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on what worked well for them at any point in the process. From taking off the wood (which I am doing now) to sanding to making it look good, any help would be appreciated.
Also the toe rail is wood and I want to take that off but I still need to transfer it to storage. Does the toe rail keep the top of the boat and the bottom of the boat attached? It looks like that is what is keeping it together and if I took it off I wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with it. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Ted
Having refinished what's felt like several miles of M-boat toe rails and other assorted wood pieces, I recommend the use of a precision scraper for removing the old finish. I've used a bahco triangle scraper (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3494&fam...) with very good results. t On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 4:44 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> wrote:
Hi everyone,
It is October and sailing season has pretty much come to an end in Minnesota. I am looking to refurbish the wood on the 1981 monty 15 that I bought last winter. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on what worked well for them at any point in the process. From taking off the wood (which I am doing now) to sanding to making it look good, any help would be appreciated.
Also the toe rail is wood and I want to take that off but I still need to transfer it to storage. Does the toe rail keep the top of the boat and the bottom of the boat attached? It looks like that is what is keeping it together and if I took it off I wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with it. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Ted _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Hey Tom- How are you guys doing? Is that place covered up with snow yet? We've had great weather, but our one month of winter is inevitable and should be here by Christmas! Why don't you be like a showbird and come out here for the Havasu affair in Feb? A great place in Feb, and the people aren't bad either. Bring the 17, and I'll kick your butt with my Sage! Be great to see you, also. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Smith" <openboatt@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 10:59 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Refurbish the wood Having refinished what's felt like several miles of M-boat toe rails and other assorted wood pieces, I recommend the use of a precision scraper for removing the old finish. I've used a bahco triangle scraper (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3494&fam...) with very good results. t On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 4:44 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> wrote:
Hi everyone,
It is October and sailing season has pretty much come to an end in Minnesota. I am looking to refurbish the wood on the 1981 monty 15 that I bought last winter. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on what worked well for them at any point in the process. From taking off the wood (which I am doing now) to sanding to making it look good, any help would be appreciated.
Also the toe rail is wood and I want to take that off but I still need to transfer it to storage. Does the toe rail keep the top of the boat and the bottom of the boat attached? It looks like that is what is keeping it together and if I took it off I wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with it. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Ted _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Did you take the toe rail off or leave it on the boat? I am debating what to do. Thanks, ted On Oct 17, 2011, at 12:59 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Having refinished what's felt like several miles of M-boat toe rails and other assorted wood pieces, I recommend the use of a precision scraper for removing the old finish. I've used a bahco triangle scraper (http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3494&fam...) with very good results. t
On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 4:44 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> wrote:
Hi everyone,
It is October and sailing season has pretty much come to an end in Minnesota. I am looking to refurbish the wood on the 1981 monty 15 that I bought last winter. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on what worked well for them at any point in the process. From taking off the wood (which I am doing now) to sanding to making it look good, any help would be appreciated.
Also the toe rail is wood and I want to take that off but I still need to transfer it to storage. Does the toe rail keep the top of the boat and the bottom of the boat attached? It looks like that is what is keeping it together and if I took it off I wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with it. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Ted _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Hi Ted, We refinished the teak on our '03 M17 last winter. Previous owner had used Cetol, so that is what we stayed with. Most was in fairly "rustic/flaky" condition, so we sanded all down to bare wood. In our case I drilled out the wood plugs on the hatch guides to remove the 4 pieces. I unbolted the roof top grab rails from the inside (*LOVE all those exposed fasteners!). *Those were sanded and recoated over the winter. After rebedding & refastening the trim, new teak plugs were expoxied in to the hatch trim screw holes, after reboring them to the next size up. Care has to be taken when leveling the plugs. You end up sanding the finish put on earlier. Then coat the plugs after to match the already coated trim. Ended up with a couple of extra complete coats on the hatch trim parts. Hmmm. I wouldn't do that again. I would refinish the hatch guides in place, after carefully masking. Grab rails are easier to take off and replace and easier to sand underneath when off. The toe rail was easy to refinish in place. I would not recommend taking off the toe rail, as you will be unbolting the hull/deck joint AND have to replug all the screw holes. Refinish it all in place. We found out it is not that hard. Masked inside and out, sanded and started recoating. Got 2 coats on then went sailing. Keep a cloth with mineral spirits close by to catch any stray drips. Next weekend we anchored out. Weather was good and calm. Remasked and recoated, on the boat. Got 2 more coats on by noon. Did another coat another time on the trailer. The cheap foam brushes, 1 1/4" wide worked very well on the toe rail with Cetol. Disposed of them after each 2 coat session. Good luck. Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 7:34 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> wrote:
Did you take the toe rail off or leave it on the boat? I am debating what to do.
Thanks, ted On Oct 17, 2011, at 12:59 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Having refinished what's felt like several miles of M-boat toe rails and other assorted wood pieces, I recommend the use of a precision scraper for removing the old finish. I've used a bahco triangle scraper ( http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3494&fam... ) with very good results. t
On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 4:44 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> wrote:
Hi everyone,
It is October and sailing season has pretty much come to an end in Minnesota. I am looking to refurbish the wood on the 1981 monty 15 that I bought last winter. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on what worked well for them at any point in the process. From taking off the wood (which I am doing now) to sanding to making it look good, any help would be appreciated.
Also the toe rail is wood and I want to take that off but I still need to transfer it to storage. Does the toe rail keep the top of the boat and the bottom of the boat attached? It looks like that is what is keeping it together and if I took it off I wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with it. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Ted _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Hi Ted, I did all my brightwork in Bristol Finish. I just finished the third season and will have to do some touch up. The Bristol Finish wears like iron and lasts three times longer than varnish. I did not remove the toe rail. I taped everthing off and put down 9 layers. Now that it is starting to show its age, I'll use a heat gun and peel it the worst of it off and feather in new coats. But having said all this, a friend of mine went through the entire stripping process and used the Cetol Light. It looked as good as varnish and didn't have that Cetol orange tinge to it. He said compared to Bristol Finish it was infinitely easier to apply. I might just wait another season and let mother nature do the stripping and go with the Cetol. Joe SeaFrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wickett To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 8:07 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Refurbish the wood Hi Ted, We refinished the teak on our '03 M17 last winter. Previous owner had used Cetol, so that is what we stayed with. Most was in fairly "rustic/flaky" condition, so we sanded all down to bare wood. In our case I drilled out the wood plugs on the hatch guides to remove the 4 pieces. I unbolted the roof top grab rails from the inside (*LOVE all those exposed fasteners!). *Those were sanded and recoated over the winter. After rebedding & refastening the trim, new teak plugs were expoxied in to the hatch trim screw holes, after reboring them to the next size up. Care has to be taken when leveling the plugs. You end up sanding the finish put on earlier. Then coat the plugs after to match the already coated trim. Ended up with a couple of extra complete coats on the hatch trim parts. Hmmm. I wouldn't do that again. I would refinish the hatch guides in place, after carefully masking. Grab rails are easier to take off and replace and easier to sand underneath when off. The toe rail was easy to refinish in place. I would not recommend taking off the toe rail, as you will be unbolting the hull/deck joint AND have to replug all the screw holes. Refinish it all in place. We found out it is not that hard. Masked inside and out, sanded and started recoating. Got 2 coats on then went sailing. Keep a cloth with mineral spirits close by to catch any stray drips. Next weekend we anchored out. Weather was good and calm. Remasked and recoated, on the boat. Got 2 more coats on by noon. Did another coat another time on the trailer. The cheap foam brushes, 1 1/4" wide worked very well on the toe rail with Cetol. Disposed of them after each 2 coat session. Good luck. Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 7:34 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> wrote:
Did you take the toe rail off or leave it on the boat? I am debating what to do.
Thanks, ted On Oct 17, 2011, at 12:59 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Having refinished what's felt like several miles of M-boat toe rails and other assorted wood pieces, I recommend the use of a precision scraper for removing the old finish. I've used a bahco triangle scraper ( http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3494&fam... ) with very good results. t
On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 4:44 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> wrote:
Hi everyone,
It is October and sailing season has pretty much come to an end in Minnesota. I am looking to refurbish the wood on the 1981 monty 15 that I bought last winter. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on what worked well for them at any point in the process. From taking off the wood (which I am doing now) to sanding to making it look good, any help would be appreciated.
Also the toe rail is wood and I want to take that off but I still need to transfer it to storage. Does the toe rail keep the top of the boat and the bottom of the boat attached? It looks like that is what is keeping it together and if I took it off I wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with it. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Ted _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Just a quick note, Cetol light still has that orange tinge to it but Cetol Natural Teak is almost water clear and much more popular with those replacing varnish with an easier to use product. paintboy --- On Tue, 10/18/11, Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> wrote: From: Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Refurbish the wood To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Date: Tuesday, October 18, 2011, 11:36 AM Hi Ted, I did all my brightwork in Bristol Finish. I just finished the third season and will have to do some touch up. The Bristol Finish wears like iron and lasts three times longer than varnish. I did not remove the toe rail. I taped everthing off and put down 9 layers. Now that it is starting to show its age, I'll use a heat gun and peel it the worst of it off and feather in new coats. But having said all this, a friend of mine went through the entire stripping process and used the Cetol Light. It looked as good as varnish and didn't have that Cetol orange tinge to it. He said compared to Bristol Finish it was infinitely easier to apply. I might just wait another season and let mother nature do the stripping and go with the Cetol. Joe SeaFrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wickett To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 8:07 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Refurbish the wood Hi Ted, We refinished the teak on our '03 M17 last winter. Previous owner had used Cetol, so that is what we stayed with. Most was in fairly "rustic/flaky" condition, so we sanded all down to bare wood. In our case I drilled out the wood plugs on the hatch guides to remove the 4 pieces. I unbolted the roof top grab rails from the inside (*LOVE all those exposed fasteners!). *Those were sanded and recoated over the winter. After rebedding & refastening the trim, new teak plugs were expoxied in to the hatch trim screw holes, after reboring them to the next size up. Care has to be taken when leveling the plugs. You end up sanding the finish put on earlier. Then coat the plugs after to match the already coated trim. Ended up with a couple of extra complete coats on the hatch trim parts. Hmmm. I wouldn't do that again. I would refinish the hatch guides in place, after carefully masking. Grab rails are easier to take off and replace and easier to sand underneath when off. The toe rail was easy to refinish in place. I would not recommend taking off the toe rail, as you will be unbolting the hull/deck joint AND have to replug all the screw holes. Refinish it all in place. We found out it is not that hard. Masked inside and out, sanded and started recoating. Got 2 coats on then went sailing. Keep a cloth with mineral spirits close by to catch any stray drips. Next weekend we anchored out. Weather was good and calm. Remasked and recoated, on the boat. Got 2 more coats on by noon. Did another coat another time on the trailer. The cheap foam brushes, 1 1/4" wide worked very well on the toe rail with Cetol. Disposed of them after each 2 coat session. Good luck. Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 7:34 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> wrote: > Did you take the toe rail off or leave it on the boat? I am debating what > to do. > > Thanks, > ted > On Oct 17, 2011, at 12:59 PM, Tom Smith wrote: > > > Having refinished what's felt like several miles of M-boat toe rails > > and other assorted wood pieces, I recommend the use of a precision > > scraper for removing the old finish. I've used a bahco triangle > > scraper ( > http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3494&fam... > ) > > with very good results. t > > > > On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 4:44 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> > wrote: > >> Hi everyone, > >> > >> It is October and sailing season has pretty much come to an end in > Minnesota. I am looking to refurbish the wood on the 1981 monty 15 that I > bought last winter. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on what worked > well for them at any point in the process. From taking off the wood (which > I am doing now) to sanding to making it look good, any help would be > appreciated. > >> > >> Also the toe rail is wood and I want to take that off but I still need > to transfer it to storage. Does the toe rail keep the top of the boat and > the bottom of the boat attached? It looks like that is what is keeping it > together and if I took it off I wouldn't want to be driving down the highway > with it. Any thoughts? > >> > >> Thanks, > >> Ted > >> _______________________________________________ > >> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >> > >> When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet! > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet! > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet! > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
Stan, You're absolutely right. It was Cetol Natural that was used. My mistake. Thx, Joe SeaFrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: Stan Susman To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 2:47 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Refurbish the wood Just a quick note, Cetol light still has that orange tinge to it but Cetol Natural Teak is almost water clear and much more popular with those replacing varnish with an easier to use product. paintboy --- On Tue, 10/18/11, Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> wrote: From: Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Refurbish the wood To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Date: Tuesday, October 18, 2011, 11:36 AM Hi Ted, I did all my brightwork in Bristol Finish. I just finished the third season and will have to do some touch up. The Bristol Finish wears like iron and lasts three times longer than varnish. I did not remove the toe rail. I taped everthing off and put down 9 layers. Now that it is starting to show its age, I'll use a heat gun and peel it the worst of it off and feather in new coats. But having said all this, a friend of mine went through the entire stripping process and used the Cetol Light. It looked as good as varnish and didn't have that Cetol orange tinge to it. He said compared to Bristol Finish it was infinitely easier to apply. I might just wait another season and let mother nature do the stripping and go with the Cetol. Joe SeaFrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wickett To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 8:07 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Refurbish the wood Hi Ted, We refinished the teak on our '03 M17 last winter. Previous owner had used Cetol, so that is what we stayed with. Most was in fairly "rustic/flaky" condition, so we sanded all down to bare wood. In our case I drilled out the wood plugs on the hatch guides to remove the 4 pieces. I unbolted the roof top grab rails from the inside (*LOVE all those exposed fasteners!). *Those were sanded and recoated over the winter. After rebedding & refastening the trim, new teak plugs were expoxied in to the hatch trim screw holes, after reboring them to the next size up. Care has to be taken when leveling the plugs. You end up sanding the finish put on earlier. Then coat the plugs after to match the already coated trim. Ended up with a couple of extra complete coats on the hatch trim parts. Hmmm. I wouldn't do that again. I would refinish the hatch guides in place, after carefully masking. Grab rails are easier to take off and replace and easier to sand underneath when off. The toe rail was easy to refinish in place. I would not recommend taking off the toe rail, as you will be unbolting the hull/deck joint AND have to replug all the screw holes. Refinish it all in place. We found out it is not that hard. Masked inside and out, sanded and started recoating. Got 2 coats on then went sailing. Keep a cloth with mineral spirits close by to catch any stray drips. Next weekend we anchored out. Weather was good and calm. Remasked and recoated, on the boat. Got 2 more coats on by noon. Did another coat another time on the trailer. The cheap foam brushes, 1 1/4" wide worked very well on the toe rail with Cetol. Disposed of them after each 2 coat session. Good luck. Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 7:34 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> wrote:
Did you take the toe rail off or leave it on the boat? I am debating what to do.
Thanks, ted On Oct 17, 2011, at 12:59 PM, Tom Smith wrote:
Having refinished what's felt like several miles of M-boat toe rails and other assorted wood pieces, I recommend the use of a precision scraper for removing the old finish. I've used a bahco triangle scraper ( http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3494&fam... ) with very good results. t
On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 4:44 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> wrote:
Hi everyone,
It is October and sailing season has pretty much come to an end in Minnesota. I am looking to refurbish the wood on the 1981 monty 15 that I bought last winter. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on what worked well for them at any point in the process. From taking off the wood (which I am doing now) to sanding to making it look good, any help would be appreciated.
Also the toe rail is wood and I want to take that off but I still need to transfer it to storage. Does the toe rail keep the top of the boat and the bottom of the boat attached? It looks like that is what is keeping it together and if I took it off I wouldn't want to be driving down the highway with it. Any thoughts?
Thanks, Ted _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
Hi Stan, I have a 30 year old M 15 and get water in the"hole" just behind the trunk. I cannot see in there and have no idea where the water is coming from . May I ask you to describe in detail where you found the source of the leak and also how you fixed it? Thanks .RTH.-----Original Message----- From: Stan Winarski Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 9:55 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 103, Issue 6 I too have experienced a recurring leak in the joinng of the centerboard trunk with the cockpit mold on my M 15. It is a difficullt place to work and even the patches of fiberglass I've installed were hardly esthetically attractive but they did the trick. Any chop encountered resulted in leaking water into my two "dry stores" drawers I installed on either side of the trunk. Stan Carol II, M-15 #177 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
Hi Robert, I owned M15 #400, and after some initial sailing on Lake Champlain, with waves and strong winds, I discovered water in the stowage spaces P/S under the berths. By careening the boat to both sides, I located how the water got into these areas. The next question was, how did it get between the hull and the interior liner. I'll try and find my original analysis and the method I used to find and fix the leak, and email it to you. The leak occurred at the aft end of the C/B pennant hole in the cockpit. I proved the location by pressurizing the interior of the hull (having taped off all the openings) and used my shop vac output side as my pressure source. Painting all suspected areas with bubble fluid soon revealed where bubbles were being blown in profusion. I then had to remove the teak board in front of the companionway to reach the area that needed repairs. I had to do a bit of surgical opening, at the aft end to get to the the leakage spot. That area was ground open and then closed with fiberglass cloth pieces, and thickened epoxy. It never leaked a drop after that repair. Connie On 04-Jan-12 6:29 PM, Robert Hall wrote:
Hi Stan, I have a 30 year old M 15 and get water in the"hole" just behind the trunk. I cannot see in there and have no idea where the water is coming from . May I ask you to describe in detail where you found the source of the leak and also how you fixed it? Thanks .RTH.-----Original Message----- From: Stan Winarski Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 9:55 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 103, Issue 6
I too have experienced a recurring leak in the joinng of the centerboard trunk with the cockpit mold on my M 15. It is a difficullt place to work and even the patches of fiberglass I've installed were hardly esthetically attractive but they did the trick. Any chop encountered resulted in leaking water into my two "dry stores" drawers I installed on either side of the trunk.
Stan Carol II, M-15 #177 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
Hi Robert, Here is my original analysis and what I did. Hi John, Connie here.... It sounds as if you have the same kind of problem that I did on our M15. After a brisk sail across Lake Champlain and back to the Essex, NY marina, I found both lockers under the mattresses with about a gallon of water on each side. At the dock my wife careened the boat, and I found water merrily flowing into the lockers on each side, through gaps in the inside liner. The next question was: where is the water coming in? To make a long search operation description short, it turned out to be coming from the aft end of the centerboard trunk slot, at a joint between the centerboard trunk and the interior liner of the boat M15). I found it the hard way, by filling the inside of the boat with water and waiting for it to drip underneath to see where the leak was. Once it started dripping, I found the leak was in the centerboard trunk. The next question was; exactly where in that area was the leak? To pinpoint the exact location of the leak I made Styrofoam hatch boards; sealed all companionway joints, and sail locker lid joints with duct tape; fired up my big shop vac on "blow"; put the hose nozzle in a hole I cut in the Styrofoam, and pressurized the interior of the boat. Then I painted every area in the centerboard slot with copious amounts of bubble solution, and watched for the location of where the bubbles would originate. When I found the location - the aft corner of the centerboard truck / cabin liner joint. I then removed the teak board in front of the cabin entrance (drill out the center of the teak plugs and break out the pieces - new teak plugs are available at WEST Marine) That allowed me to do some surgical removal of the back end of the centerboard slot (pieces were reinstalled after the repair) in order to gain access to the leak area. I then ground out material at the joint where the leak occurred, using a DREML tool. This area was then sealed using thickened epoxy. My repair solved the problem: no more leaks: dry lockers at any angle of heel or amount of burping water through the C/B slot because of excessive speed. Good luck on your search; and the pressurized interior and bubble liquid is a lot easier solution as a search tool than the fill-it-with-water method I initially used. Connie ex M15 #400 LEPPO Chris Smith wrote:
Fantastic! I'm hoping to do much the same thing to my M15 this summer. How difficult was it to get the centerboard out?
From looking at your pictures I see you went to Isle Royale! Where did you put in? I am planning a ~1 week trip this summer, and am currently trying to decide if that is enough time to put in at the Apostle Islands and make the crossing to Tettegouche, then up to Isle Royale. I'd like to get a little open water time - remind me of ocean sailing (albeit on much bigger boats...).
Also, the toe rails and other woodwork looks great on your boat! Did you refinish it? I've gotten some conflicting opinions on the proper way to refinish teak - I guess this question is up for everyone: what is the best way? Sand/stain/poly? teak restorer stuff?
Thanks!
Chris M15 Persephone
On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 9:12 PM, John and DesAnne Hippe <jdhippe@gmail.com>wrote:
Hello All,
I have begun a little refit of my M-15. Today I jacked the boat up and set it upon a temporary support of 6X6" on cynder blocks. Then I took out the centerboard so that it can be repaired and faired. I will also be repairing the keel as it has struck rocks a few times (oops). I have a leak that I hope to stop. The leak seaps into the lockers in the cabin which renders them unusable for anything that requires a dry space. During this time I will also sand off the antifouling paint and repaint with something a bit more pleasing to the eye. Lastly I hope get the trailer repainted as it has become quite rusty.
I have posted pictures of the refit so far at h ttp://picasaweb.google.com/JDHippe <http://picasaweb.google.com/JDHippe>.
John M-15 Jester _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! On 04-Jan-12 6:29 PM, Robert Hall wrote:
Hi Stan, I have a 30 year old M 15 and get water in the"hole" just behind the trunk. I cannot see in there and have no idea where the water is coming from . May I ask you to describe in detail where you found the source of the leak and also how you fixed it? Thanks .RTH.-----Original Message----- From: Stan Winarski Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 9:55 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 103, Issue 6
I too have experienced a recurring leak in the joinng of the centerboard trunk with the cockpit mold on my M 15. It is a difficullt place to work and even the patches of fiberglass I've installed were hardly esthetically attractive but they did the trick. Any chop encountered resulted in leaking water into my two "dry stores" drawers I installed on either side of the trunk.
Stan Carol II, M-15 #177 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
Hi, Thank you for the analysis. My leak is not as serious as yours was, as every 24 hrs or so I have been able to sponge out about 2 litres of water from the 'hole'.When I took the boat out in the fall, water appeared to be dripping around the centre board through the trunk making me suspect that the water is getting in via what I call the' hole' behind the trunk.I think that before launching I will try putting some sealant foam around the seams in the' hole'. Once set I will fill the 'hole' with water and see if it leaks out of the trunk around the centre board.If that fails I will try your ingenious pressure method. Thank you again. RTH. -----Original Message----- From: Conbert Benneck Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2012 12:03 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 103, Issue 6 Hi Robert, Here is my original analysis and what I did. Hi John, Connie here.... It sounds as if you have the same kind of problem that I did on our M15. After a brisk sail across Lake Champlain and back to the Essex, NY marina, I found both lockers under the mattresses with about a gallon of water on each side. At the dock my wife careened the boat, and I found water merrily flowing into the lockers on each side, through gaps in the inside liner. The next question was: where is the water coming in? To make a long search operation description short, it turned out to be coming from the aft end of the centerboard trunk slot, at a joint between the centerboard trunk and the interior liner of the boat M15). I found it the hard way, by filling the inside of the boat with water and waiting for it to drip underneath to see where the leak was. Once it started dripping, I found the leak was in the centerboard trunk. The next question was; exactly where in that area was the leak? To pinpoint the exact location of the leak I made Styrofoam hatch boards; sealed all companionway joints, and sail locker lid joints with duct tape; fired up my big shop vac on "blow"; put the hose nozzle in a hole I cut in the Styrofoam, and pressurized the interior of the boat. Then I painted every area in the centerboard slot with copious amounts of bubble solution, and watched for the location of where the bubbles would originate. When I found the location - the aft corner of the centerboard truck / cabin liner joint. I then removed the teak board in front of the cabin entrance (drill out the center of the teak plugs and break out the pieces - new teak plugs are available at WEST Marine) That allowed me to do some surgical removal of the back end of the centerboard slot (pieces were reinstalled after the repair) in order to gain access to the leak area. I then ground out material at the joint where the leak occurred, using a DREML tool. This area was then sealed using thickened epoxy. My repair solved the problem: no more leaks: dry lockers at any angle of heel or amount of burping water through the C/B slot because of excessive speed. Good luck on your search; and the pressurized interior and bubble liquid is a lot easier solution as a search tool than the fill-it-with-water method I initially used. Connie ex M15 #400 LEPPO Chris Smith wrote:
Fantastic! I'm hoping to do much the same thing to my M15 this summer. How difficult was it to get the centerboard out?
From looking at your pictures I see you went to Isle Royale! Where did you put in? I am planning a ~1 week trip this summer, and am currently trying to decide if that is enough time to put in at the Apostle Islands and make the crossing to Tettegouche, then up to Isle Royale. I'd like to get a little open water time - remind me of ocean sailing (albeit on much bigger boats...).
Also, the toe rails and other woodwork looks great on your boat! Did you refinish it? I've gotten some conflicting opinions on the proper way to refinish teak - I guess this question is up for everyone: what is the best way? Sand/stain/poly? teak restorer stuff?
Thanks!
Chris M15 Persephone
On Sun, Apr 12, 2009 at 9:12 PM, John and DesAnne Hippe <jdhippe@gmail.com>wrote:
Hello All,
I have begun a little refit of my M-15. Today I jacked the boat up and set it upon a temporary support of 6X6" on cynder blocks. Then I took out the centerboard so that it can be repaired and faired. I will also be repairing the keel as it has struck rocks a few times (oops). I have a leak that I hope to stop. The leak seaps into the lockers in the cabin which renders them unusable for anything that requires a dry space. During this time I will also sand off the antifouling paint and repaint with something a bit more pleasing to the eye. Lastly I hope get the trailer repainted as it has become quite rusty.
I have posted pictures of the refit so far at h ttp://picasaweb.google.com/JDHippe <http://picasaweb.google.com/JDHippe>.
John M-15 Jester _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! On 04-Jan-12 6:29 PM, Robert Hall wrote:
Hi Stan, I have a 30 year old M 15 and get water in the"hole" just behind the trunk. I cannot see in there and have no idea where the water is coming from . May I ask you to describe in detail where you found the source of the leak and also how you fixed it? Thanks .RTH.-----Original Message----- From: Stan Winarski Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 9:55 PM To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: montgomery_boats Digest, Vol 103, Issue 6
I too have experienced a recurring leak in the joinng of the centerboard trunk with the cockpit mold on my M 15. It is a difficullt place to work and even the patches of fiberglass I've installed were hardly esthetically attractive but they did the trick. Any chop encountered resulted in leaking water into my two "dry stores" drawers I installed on either side of the trunk.
Stan Carol II, M-15 #177 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!
participants (11)
-
Bill Wickett -
Conbert Benneck -
Gordon Gilbert -
jerry montgomery -
Joe Murphy -
Robert Hall -
Stan Susman -
Stan Winarski -
Ted Weidenbach -
Tom Smith -
W David Scobie