I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17
I agree, the plywood isn't holding up very well. I'm thinking of replacing my mine with tinted plexiglass. To keep the weight (and cost) down I'm thinking about using 1/4" and frame it with an additional 1/4" strip to fit the slides. What I'd reallly like to do is make a pair of doors but haven't woked out the design to be weatherproof. I had plexiglass doors on my previous NorSea for 5 years and never had any problems. Kudos to you all for the Northwest Cruise. Joe Seafrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Reed" <tonyreed219@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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I have teak ply for my hatchboards. Coated with oodles of coats of varnish. Beautiful, no delamination problem (they probably have between 6 and 10 coats on them), satisfying. Easy as pie to maintain since they aren't bolted or screwed down to the boat. I kept my old painted hatchboards for when I have the good ones in the house for their annual winter coat of varnish. I tried 3 boards but find I like 2 better because they are large enough to make good counters when eating. Also, it is easier to hold two in one hand than three because the middle one always seems to slip around. Now the companionway strips, on the other hand, I'm glad I swapped out for aluminum. Just my experience... Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 10:53 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I agree, the plywood isn't holding up very well. I'm thinking of replacing my mine with tinted plexiglass. To keep the weight (and cost) down I'm thinking about using 1/4" and frame it with an additional 1/4" strip to fit the slides. What I'd reallly like to do is make a pair of doors but haven't woked out the design to be weatherproof. I had plexiglass doors on my previous NorSea for 5 years and never had any problems.
Kudos to you all for the Northwest Cruise. Joe Seafrog M17
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Reed" <tonyreed219@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.81/2189 - Release Date: 06/20/09 06:15:00
Tod, Did you use anything besides varnish to treat the edges of the plywood? When I look at my edges they have a lot of gaps. My boards haven't started any delamination, but if I don't do something soon, I'm sure I won't last the summer. Any issues with warping?? Has anyone tried some of the newer teak sealers out? Such as Starbrite's Tropical Teak Sealer???? Joe Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills@zoominternet.net> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:07 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak ply for my hatchboards. Coated with oodles of coats of varnish. Beautiful, no delamination problem (they probably have between 6 and 10 coats on them), satisfying. Easy as pie to maintain since they aren't bolted or screwed down to the boat.
I kept my old painted hatchboards for when I have the good ones in the house for their annual winter coat of varnish.
I tried 3 boards but find I like 2 better because they are large enough to make good counters when eating. Also, it is easier to hold two in one hand than three because the middle one always seems to slip around.
Now the companionway strips, on the other hand, I'm glad I swapped out for aluminum.
Just my experience...
Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 10:53 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I agree, the plywood isn't holding up very well. I'm thinking of replacing my mine with tinted plexiglass. To keep the weight (and cost) down I'm thinking about using 1/4" and frame it with an additional 1/4" strip to fit the slides. What I'd reallly like to do is make a pair of doors but haven't woked out the design to be weatherproof. I had plexiglass doors on my previous NorSea for 5 years and never had any problems.
Kudos to you all for the Northwest Cruise. Joe Seafrog M17
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Reed" <tonyreed219@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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You could always coat them with epoxy first, filling voids in the edges with it and coating the whole thing, then varnishing over the epoxy to protect it from the UV. No warping issues beyond the slight bow the plywood had initially, but that causes no problem (is good, in fact). Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
Tod, Did you use anything besides varnish to treat the edges of the plywood? When I look at my edges they have a lot of gaps. My boards haven't started any delamination, but if I don't do something soon, I'm sure I won't last the summer. Any issues with warping?? Has anyone tried some of the newer teak sealers out? Such as Starbrite's Tropical Teak Sealer???? Joe Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills@zoominternet.net> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:07 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak ply for my hatchboards. Coated with oodles of coats of varnish. Beautiful, no delamination problem (they probably have between 6 and 10 coats on them), satisfying. Easy as pie to maintain since they aren't bolted or screwed down to the boat.
I kept my old painted hatchboards for when I have the good ones in the house for their annual winter coat of varnish.
I tried 3 boards but find I like 2 better because they are large enough to make good counters when eating. Also, it is easier to hold two in one hand than three because the middle one always seems to slip around.
Now the companionway strips, on the other hand, I'm glad I swapped out for aluminum.
Just my experience...
Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 10:53 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I agree, the plywood isn't holding up very well. I'm thinking of replacing my mine with tinted plexiglass. To keep the weight (and cost) down I'm thinking about using 1/4" and frame it with an additional 1/4" strip to fit the slides. What I'd reallly like to do is make a pair of doors but haven't woked out the design to be weatherproof. I had plexiglass doors on my previous NorSea for 5 years and never had any problems.
Kudos to you all for the Northwest Cruise. Joe Seafrog M17
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Reed" <tonyreed219@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.81/2189 - Release Date: 06/20/09 06:15:00
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Good news. Thanks. Any particular epoxy?? West System?? Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills@zoominternet.net> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:49 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
You could always coat them with epoxy first, filling voids in the edges with it and coating the whole thing, then varnishing over the epoxy to protect it from the UV.
No warping issues beyond the slight bow the plywood had initially, but that causes no problem (is good, in fact).
Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
Tod, Did you use anything besides varnish to treat the edges of the plywood? When I look at my edges they have a lot of gaps. My boards haven't started any delamination, but if I don't do something soon, I'm sure I won't last the summer. Any issues with warping?? Has anyone tried some of the newer teak sealers out? Such as Starbrite's Tropical Teak Sealer???? Joe Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills@zoominternet.net> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:07 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak ply for my hatchboards. Coated with oodles of coats of varnish. Beautiful, no delamination problem (they probably have between 6 and 10 coats on them), satisfying. Easy as pie to maintain since they aren't bolted or screwed down to the boat.
I kept my old painted hatchboards for when I have the good ones in the house for their annual winter coat of varnish.
I tried 3 boards but find I like 2 better because they are large enough to make good counters when eating. Also, it is easier to hold two in one hand than three because the middle one always seems to slip around.
Now the companionway strips, on the other hand, I'm glad I swapped out for aluminum.
Just my experience...
Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 10:53 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I agree, the plywood isn't holding up very well. I'm thinking of replacing my mine with tinted plexiglass. To keep the weight (and cost) down I'm thinking about using 1/4" and frame it with an additional 1/4" strip to fit the slides. What I'd reallly like to do is make a pair of doors but haven't woked out the design to be weatherproof. I had plexiglass doors on my previous NorSea for 5 years and never had any problems.
Kudos to you all for the Northwest Cruise. Joe Seafrog M17
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Reed" <tonyreed219@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Whatever you like. You might see how clear it is or how tinted it is before buying (should be some pics online). West is readily available around here (ohio), but I'm sure others would be fine too, and maybe cheaper. Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2009 8:54 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
Good news. Thanks. Any particular epoxy?? West System?? Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills@zoominternet.net> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:49 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
You could always coat them with epoxy first, filling voids in the edges with it and coating the whole thing, then varnishing over the epoxy to protect it from the UV.
No warping issues beyond the slight bow the plywood had initially, but that causes no problem (is good, in fact).
Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:31 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
Tod, Did you use anything besides varnish to treat the edges of the plywood? When I look at my edges they have a lot of gaps. My boards haven't started any delamination, but if I don't do something soon, I'm sure I won't last the summer. Any issues with warping?? Has anyone tried some of the newer teak sealers out? Such as Starbrite's Tropical Teak Sealer???? Joe Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills@zoominternet.net> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:07 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak ply for my hatchboards. Coated with oodles of coats of varnish. Beautiful, no delamination problem (they probably have between 6 and 10 coats on them), satisfying. Easy as pie to maintain since they aren't bolted or screwed down to the boat.
I kept my old painted hatchboards for when I have the good ones in the house for their annual winter coat of varnish.
I tried 3 boards but find I like 2 better because they are large enough to make good counters when eating. Also, it is easier to hold two in one hand than three because the middle one always seems to slip around.
Now the companionway strips, on the other hand, I'm glad I swapped out for aluminum.
Just my experience...
Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 10:53 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I agree, the plywood isn't holding up very well. I'm thinking of replacing my mine with tinted plexiglass. To keep the weight (and cost) down I'm thinking about using 1/4" and frame it with an additional 1/4" strip to fit the slides. What I'd reallly like to do is make a pair of doors but haven't woked out the design to be weatherproof. I had plexiglass doors on my previous NorSea for 5 years and never had any problems.
Kudos to you all for the Northwest Cruise. Joe Seafrog M17
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Reed" <tonyreed219@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi- bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.81/2189 - Release Date: 06/20/09 06:15:00
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If I might butt in again, all of my wood but the slides is coated with Tropical Teak Sealer, after much work removing the original stuff. I like the look, but I used it primarily because it has protected the teak on my Nor'Sea in tropical sun much better than anything I have tried this last 30 years. I wish I had used it on my hatch boards, since I received them unfinished. Oh, the seduction of varnish! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 8:31 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
Tod, Did you use anything besides varnish to treat the edges of the plywood? When I look at my edges they have a lot of gaps. My boards haven't started any delamination, but if I don't do something soon, I'm sure I won't last the summer. Any issues with warping?? Has anyone tried some of the newer teak sealers out? Such as Starbrite's Tropical Teak Sealer???? Joe Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: <htmills@zoominternet.net> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 11:07 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak ply for my hatchboards. Coated with oodles of coats of varnish. Beautiful, no delamination problem (they probably have between 6 and 10 coats on them), satisfying. Easy as pie to maintain since they aren't bolted or screwed down to the boat.
I kept my old painted hatchboards for when I have the good ones in the house for their annual winter coat of varnish.
I tried 3 boards but find I like 2 better because they are large enough to make good counters when eating. Also, it is easier to hold two in one hand than three because the middle one always seems to slip around.
Now the companionway strips, on the other hand, I'm glad I swapped out for aluminum.
Just my experience...
Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 10:53 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I agree, the plywood isn't holding up very well. I'm thinking of replacing my mine with tinted plexiglass. To keep the weight (and cost) down I'm thinking about using 1/4" and frame it with an additional 1/4" strip to fit the slides. What I'd reallly like to do is make a pair of doors but haven't woked out the design to be weatherproof. I had plexiglass doors on my previous NorSea for 5 years and never had any problems.
Kudos to you all for the Northwest Cruise. Joe Seafrog M17
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Reed" <tonyreed219@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Thanks all for the advice on epoxies. So, in addition to using it on the edges of the plywood to fill in those holes and gaps, I should also give the face a coat as well before using a polyurthethane/varnish, such as Bristol Finish? I used Bristol Finish on the toe rails, handrails, and the two strips along the hatch. I like BF which wears like iron. I was going to use something else on the hatch boards for fear that the BF might chip and crack on the edges from the constant on and off with the drop boards. It's never simple is it?? This whole week is going to be in the mid 80's with N NE 10 kt winds. So I hope to be on the water and not worrying too much about varnish, etc.. Joe Seafrog M17 651
I would probably coat the whole thing: I've found that if you try to just coat part of it, the edge of the epoxy shows up as a slight color change. Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 9:48 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
Thanks all for the advice on epoxies. So, in addition to using it on the edges of the plywood to fill in those holes and gaps, I should also give the face a coat as well before using a polyurthethane/varnish, such as Bristol Finish? I used Bristol Finish on the toe rails, handrails, and the two strips along the hatch. I like BF which wears like iron. I was going to use something else on the hatch boards for fear that the BF might chip and crack on the edges from the constant on and off with the drop boards.
It's never simple is it??
This whole week is going to be in the mid 80's with N NE 10 kt winds. So I hope to be on the water and not worrying too much about varnish, etc..
Joe Seafrog M17 651
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Yup......coat the entire thing.....heavy on the edges, but all sides too. I'd suggest at least 3 coats. Laid flat, you can brush these on pretty heavy and it will self level. Watch for air bubbles. A warm day and slow cure hardener helps with this. And if you lay the boards out flat, putting down three coats on the sides will mean the edges get it 6 times, as you tend to double down on the edges from drips and runs. With 3 coats of clear epoxy and 3 or 4 coats of a good varnish, it will look like the boards have been covered with glass. The grain of the wood will "pop" out at you. Just remember that epoxy is damaged by UV. The varnish you use has to have a good UV inhibitor. Most of them do, but that's the thing to be aware of. I've been using Interlux Goldspar with good results. Howard On Jun 22, 2009, at 8:54 AM, <htmills@zoominternet.net> wrote:
I would probably coat the whole thing: I've found that if you try to just coat part of it, the edge of the epoxy shows up as a slight color change.
Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 9:48 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
Thanks all for the advice on epoxies. So, in addition to using it on the edges of the plywood to fill in those holes and gaps, I should also give the face a coat as well before using a polyurthethane/varnish, such as Bristol Finish? I used Bristol Finish on the toe rails, handrails, and the two strips along the hatch. I like BF which wears like iron. I was going to use something else on the hatch boards for fear that the BF might chip and crack on the edges from the constant on and off with the drop boards.
It's never simple is it??
This whole week is going to be in the mid 80's with N NE 10 kt winds. So I hope to be on the water and not worrying too much about varnish, etc..
Joe Seafrog M17 651
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No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.339 / Virus Database: 270.12.81/2189 - Release Date: 06/22/09 06:54:00
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Just a note to thank all of you for your suggestions on solving the hatchboards problems. I used Cetol products on all the teak but Bob recommends varnish on the hatch boards so I think using the Cetol was the root of my problem. I guess the sealer/preservative in that product mostly adds color. Regards, Tony M17 -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 9:53 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards I agree, the plywood isn't holding up very well. I'm thinking of replacing my mine with tinted plexiglass. To keep the weight (and cost) down I'm thinking about using 1/4" and frame it with an additional 1/4" strip to fit the slides. What I'd reallly like to do is make a pair of doors but haven't woked out the design to be weatherproof. I had plexiglass doors on my previous NorSea for 5 years and never had any problems. Kudos to you all for the Northwest Cruise. Joe Seafrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Reed" <tonyreed219@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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What thickness are the current hatch boards? 1/2 Inch? 3/4 inch? With or without a lip on the sides and bottom? Beveled on the bottom of each piece to shed water? On Jun 22, 2009, at 9:04 AM, E. Tony Reed wrote:
Just a note to thank all of you for your suggestions on solving the hatchboards problems. I used Cetol products on all the teak but Bob recommends varnish on the hatch boards so I think using the Cetol was the root of my problem. I guess the sealer/preservative in that product mostly adds color.
Regards,
Tony M17
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 9:53 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I agree, the plywood isn't holding up very well. I'm thinking of replacing my mine with tinted plexiglass. To keep the weight (and cost) down I'm thinking about using 1/4" and frame it with an additional 1/4" strip to fit the slides. What I'd reallly like to do is make a pair of doors but haven't woked out the design to be weatherproof. I had plexiglass doors on my previous NorSea for 5 years and never had any problems.
Kudos to you all for the Northwest Cruise. Joe Seafrog M17
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Reed" <tonyreed219@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Hi Howard.. The current hatchboards are 1/2 inch. Bob
From: haudsley@tranquility.net Date: Mon, 22 Jun 2009 14:25:46 -0500 To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
What thickness are the current hatch boards? 1/2 Inch? 3/4 inch?
With or without a lip on the sides and bottom?
Beveled on the bottom of each piece to shed water?
On Jun 22, 2009, at 9:04 AM, E. Tony Reed wrote:
Just a note to thank all of you for your suggestions on solving the hatchboards problems. I used Cetol products on all the teak but Bob recommends varnish on the hatch boards so I think using the Cetol was the root of my problem. I guess the sealer/preservative in that product mostly adds color.
Regards,
Tony M17
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 9:53 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I agree, the plywood isn't holding up very well. I'm thinking of replacing my mine with tinted plexiglass. To keep the weight (and cost) down I'm thinking about using 1/4" and frame it with an additional 1/4" strip to fit the slides. What I'd reallly like to do is make a pair of doors but haven't woked out the design to be weatherproof. I had plexiglass doors on my previous NorSea for 5 years and never had any problems.
Kudos to you all for the Northwest Cruise. Joe Seafrog M17
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Reed" <tonyreed219@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Howard, My boards are 1/2 inch. The boards have lips on sides and bottom with no bevel. Tony -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Howard Audsley Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 2:26 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards What thickness are the current hatch boards? 1/2 Inch? 3/4 inch? With or without a lip on the sides and bottom? Beveled on the bottom of each piece to shed water? On Jun 22, 2009, at 9:04 AM, E. Tony Reed wrote:
Just a note to thank all of you for your suggestions on solving the hatchboards problems. I used Cetol products on all the teak but Bob recommends varnish on the hatch boards so I think using the Cetol was the root of my problem. I guess the sealer/preservative in that product mostly adds color.
Regards,
Tony M17
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Joe Murphy Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 9:53 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I agree, the plywood isn't holding up very well. I'm thinking of replacing my mine with tinted plexiglass. To keep the weight (and cost) down I'm thinking about using 1/4" and frame it with an additional 1/4" strip to fit the slides. What I'd reallly like to do is make a pair of doors but haven't woked out the design to be weatherproof. I had plexiglass doors on my previous NorSea for 5 years and never had any problems.
Kudos to you all for the Northwest Cruise. Joe Seafrog M17
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Reed" <tonyreed219@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Joe, I responded to Tony's message before reading yours, but I have since been thinking along similar lines. The wood boards are too beautiful to withhold from public view on the water, but I have a bunch of 1/4" polycarbonate sitting around that could replace the primary boards for storage in sun and rain. I made a greenhouse from the stuff, and it has withstood daily sunlight at 7400 feet for some ten years. So far the 1/2" boards I am using have survived with 6 coats of varnish, but I will darn sure keep an eye on the ends, and maybe try an epoxy coating. Tom Jenkins ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 7:52 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I agree, the plywood isn't holding up very well. I'm thinking of replacing my mine with tinted plexiglass. To keep the weight (and cost) down I'm thinking about using 1/4" and frame it with an additional 1/4" strip to fit the slides. What I'd reallly like to do is make a pair of doors but haven't woked out the design to be weatherproof. I had plexiglass doors on my previous NorSea for 5 years and never had any problems.
Kudos to you all for the Northwest Cruise. Joe Seafrog M17
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Reed" <tonyreed219@gmail.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 2:54 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Tony, When I made new hatchboards for my M17 I made them of 1/2" mahogany ply. I routed the edge areas to 1/4" where they went into the slides. I then put a layer of fiberglass on the edges set in epoxy resin and filled and sanded smooth. I built a gear box/bridge deck from the bottom of the cockpit to the mainsheet traveler with a lip in the lower part of the hatch slides. The bridge deck and slides have 6 coats of marine varnish. This effectively raises the main hatch sill an inch above the cockpit seats. Since I had to step over the traveler anyway, the effective opening is just as large. Besides, the 6" wide box with an oval opening at the forward end of the cockpit is a great place to stow winch handles, sail stops and such. Whitebeard M17 #14, Griselda
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 2009 13:54:43 -0500 From: tonyreed219@gmail.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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I've never used it, but my guess is the only teak in teak plywood is a very thin surface veneer. What they used for the inner plys has an influence on how well they stand up. Here are three other types of marine ply: http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n165/haudsley/Picture304.jpg Okume on the bottom. Meranti (hydroteck) in the middle and marine fir on top. Notice the size and number of plys. That is 3/4 inch and the two on the bottom have 13 plys and all of it is the same stuff. The fir has footballs and other surface voids, not to mention internal voids. Finished bright, fir doesn't look that hot and will check (surface cracks). Meranti finishes dark, almost like english oak or walnut. These two are mostly structural plywood. Okume looks more like mahogany when finished and would be my choice for hatchboards finished bright. It's also the most expensive, and unless you live in a boating area, you will not find it locally. You will probably have to order it. Next is how thick are your hatchboards? Mine are 3/4 inch solid mahogany. They had a 3/8" rabbet routed into the edge so they drop into the trim boards, which were routed out to match. You could use 3/8" ply for thin boards, use 3/4" and rout the edges or glue two 3/8" together, with the outer 3/8" smaller all around than the inner. Solid mahogany is gorgeous, but the color doesn't hold up in the sun. Mine has nearly 10 coats of varnish on the exterior surface and over time, the sun bleaches them to a light blonde, vs. the nice dark mahogany they started with (and which remains on the inside). That does make a nice cockpit table. West Epoxy is available in most West Marine (no connection) stores, but costs about double what equally effective products cost. For a great product, at a reasonable price and quantity, I'd suggest RAKA: http://www.raka.com/ RAKA and a number of others (like MAS) mix 2:1 that you can pour into mixing cups vs. the pump setup on West, which ends up wasting a lot of product. RAKA finishes clear and when covered with a polyurethane finish is durable. On Jun 20, 2009, at 1:54 PM, Tony Reed wrote:
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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I expect you are right, Howard. If anyone ever made all teak ply, it was probably years ago when teak was still pretty cheap. However, not all plywoods are created equal. Before my latest hatchboards, I tried ash ply. The veneer of ash on it was in fact so thin that it really couldn't be sanded except for a light touch with very very fine paper. I got some discoloring in the veneer and that was it; couldn't sand it without blowing through the veneer. The veneer on the teak plywood, however, is substantially thicker. Thick enough to sand if need be. IIRC, between a 32nd and a 16th thick. Bought it from Boulter plywood (I think three of us went in on a full sheet) http://www.boulterplywood.com/ Tod Mills M17 #408, 1987 galley model BuscaBrisas
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Howard Audsley Sent: Monday, June 22, 2009 9:20 AM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hatchboards
I've never used it, but my guess is the only teak in teak plywood is a very thin surface veneer. What they used for the inner plys has an influence on how well they stand up.
Here are three other types of marine ply:
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n165/haudsley/Picture304.jpg
Okume on the bottom. Meranti (hydroteck) in the middle and marine fir on top. Notice the size and number of plys. That is 3/4 inch and the two on the bottom have 13 plys and all of it is the same stuff. The fir has footballs and other surface voids, not to mention internal voids.
Finished bright, fir doesn't look that hot and will check (surface cracks). Meranti finishes dark, almost like english oak or walnut. These two are mostly structural plywood.
Okume looks more like mahogany when finished and would be my choice for hatchboards finished bright. It's also the most expensive, and unless you live in a boating area, you will not find it locally. You will probably have to order it.
Next is how thick are your hatchboards? Mine are 3/4 inch solid mahogany. They had a 3/8" rabbet routed into the edge so they drop into the trim boards, which were routed out to match. You could use 3/8" ply for thin boards, use 3/4" and rout the edges or glue two 3/8" together, with the outer 3/8" smaller all around than the inner.
Solid mahogany is gorgeous, but the color doesn't hold up in the sun. Mine has nearly 10 coats of varnish on the exterior surface and over time, the sun bleaches them to a light blonde, vs. the nice dark mahogany they started with (and which remains on the inside). That does make a nice cockpit table.
West Epoxy is available in most West Marine (no connection) stores, but costs about double what equally effective products cost. For a great product, at a reasonable price and quantity, I'd suggest RAKA:
RAKA and a number of others (like MAS) mix 2:1 that you can pour into mixing cups vs. the pump setup on West, which ends up wasting a lot of product. RAKA finishes clear and when covered with a polyurethane finish is durable.
On Jun 20, 2009, at 1:54 PM, Tony Reed wrote:
I have teak plywood hatch board that are absorbing water down the sides and coming apart. I have to replace them but I am not sure what to use. Replacing them with the same material is not a good option since mine are less than a year old. I was just wondering what others are using. Thanks, Tony 08 M17 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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participants (8)
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Bob From California -
E. Tony Reed -
Howard Audsley -
htmills＠zoominternet.net -
Joe Murphy -
Ronnie Keeler -
Tom Jenkins -
Tony Reed