centerboard problems
Hi all, Pretty new Montgomery 17 owner here. I brought the boat to Florida and am plannig to sail out of Tarpon Springs for the next month. However, yesterday, when I tried to lower the centerboard, the rope ripped a section of the board out, and the centerboard crashed into full down position, where it's been ever since. I dove down to have a look, and the section of the board above the rope hole was just ripped out. I've got her in the water now, with the centerboard in full down position, and the rope is completely separated from the board/winch/cleat which should be holding the board up. We're going to haul her out at high tide today (2:45 pm) and have a look at it, but I'm wondering what can be done. Will I need to replace the whole centeboard? Can I drill a new hole and attach the rope to it? This is an older boat (1975) and I'm afraid the whole board is rotten. Has anyone seen/heard/read of a problem like this? Fair Winds, Donald Miller "Coquette" #66 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/
--- Donald Andrew Miller <damirrra@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi all,
Pretty new Montgomery 17 owner here. I brought the boat to Florida and am plannig to sail out of Tarpon Springs for the next month. However, yesterday, when I tried to lower the centerboard, the rope ripped a section of the board out, and the centerboard crashed into full down position, where it's been ever since. I dove down to have a look, and the section of the board above the rope hole was just ripped out.
I've got her in the water now, with the centerboard in full down position, and the rope is completely separated from the board/winch/cleat which should be holding the board up.
We're going to haul her out at high tide today (2:45 pm) and have a look at it, but I'm wondering what can be done. Will I need to replace the whole centeboard? Can I drill a new hole and attach the rope to it? This is an older boat (1975) and I'm afraid the whole board is rotten. Has anyone seen/heard/read of a problem like this?
Fair Winds,
Donald Miller "Coquette" #66 Don, It must have been a replaced cbd, because as far as I'm aware, all the boats up to 1985 had cast iron c'boards. Maybe I'm wrong on this and if so others will surely correct me here. If your board was cast iron, YIKES! Was it? Eugene #354 1982 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Sports - live college hoops coverage http://sports.yahoo.com/
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On 3/18/02 9:20 AM, "Donald Andrew Miller" <damirrra@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hi all,
Pretty new Montgomery 17 owner here. I brought the boat to Florida and am plannig to sail out of Tarpon Springs for the next month. However, yesterday, when I tried to lower the centerboard, the rope ripped a section of the board out, and the centerboard crashed into full down position, where it's been ever since. I dove down to have a look, and the section of the board above the rope hole was just ripped out.
I've got her in the water now, with the centerboard in full down position, and the rope is completely separated from the board/winch/cleat which should be holding the board up.
We're going to haul her out at high tide today (2:45 pm) and have a look at it, but I'm wondering what can be done. Will I need to replace the whole centeboard? Can I drill a new hole and attach the rope to it? This is an older boat (1975) and I'm afraid the whole board is rotten. Has anyone seen/heard/read of a problem like this?
Fair Winds,
Donald Miller "Coquette" #66
__
I would guess your existing CB is or should be made of cast iron, and one of two versions. There are two sets of photos on the MSOG.org site: http://msog.org/models/m17/m-17-cb.cfm Which is my boat, and: http://msog.org/how-to/cb-fritz.cfm Which is an older M17 still, and maybe one of the original designs. If it's a cast iron board like mine, and you are missing a chunk of metal where the pennant should be attached, you likely need a new board. The best current solution appears to be cutting a new board from plate steel, probably 5/8". I traced mine when it was out, and have a rough sketch that might be useable for a welding/machine shop to make a new one if there isn't enough of your old board that can be used as a pattern. If you want a copy, let me know. Howard M17 #278 "AUDASEA"
Hi Don- A 1975 17 should be one of the keel/centerboard ones, with a cast iron centerboard if my memory serves me correctly. Correct me if I am wrong. Sounds like a corner of the board broke off, probably from years of corrosion. Without seeing the board I would say that the only choice other than replacing it would be to have the broken part welded back on, assuming that there is enough sound iron left. Also, your welder should know this, but be sure that the board is heated enough so that it will not develop cracks from differential expansion caused by heat from the welding. One more thing, make sure that the "keeper" tang on the upper aft corner is intact, and riding on the pin in the keel when the board is in its down position. When sailing, it is important that the board hangs on this tang rather than on the pennant. Good luck. Jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Donald Andrew Miller" <damirrra@yahoo.com> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 7:20 AM Subject: M_Boats: centerboard problems
Hi all,
Pretty new Montgomery 17 owner here. I brought the boat to Florida and am plannig to sail out of Tarpon Springs for the next month. However, yesterday, when I tried to lower the centerboard, the rope ripped a section of the board out, and the centerboard crashed into full down position, where it's been ever since. I dove down to have a look, and the section of the board above the rope hole was just ripped out.
I've got her in the water now, with the centerboard in full down position, and the rope is completely separated from the board/winch/cleat which should be holding the board up.
We're going to haul her out at high tide today (2:45 pm) and have a look at it, but I'm wondering what can be done. Will I need to replace the whole centeboard? Can I drill a new hole and attach the rope to it? This is an older boat (1975) and I'm afraid the whole board is rotten. Has anyone seen/heard/read of a problem like this?
Fair Winds,
Donald Miller "Coquette" #66
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Jerry, Is it better for the new fiberglass boards to hang on the pendant or on the aft pin? I recall some comments that there should be a knot in the pendant to keep the weight of the board off the pin. My new M17 was delivered with such a knot in the pendant. David Fann M17 Dulcibella On 3/18/02 3:34 PM, "Jerry Mongomery" <jmbn@innercite.com> wrote:
One more thing, make sure that the "keeper" tang on the upper aft corner is intact, and riding on the pin in the keel when the board is in its down position. When sailing, it is important that the board hangs on this tang rather than on the pennant. Good luck.
Hi Dave That's true- On the glass boaards the board should hang on the pennent. The glass boards are much lighter, and there is no pin anyway. The knot should allow for 15" of drop, and be careful to measure it occasionally because they seem to migrate sometimes. Jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Fann" <dafann@ufl.edu> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, March 18, 2002 12:41 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: centerboard problems
Jerry,
Is it better for the new fiberglass boards to hang on the pendant or on the aft pin? I recall some comments that there should be a knot in the pendant to keep the weight of the board off the pin. My new M17 was delivered with such a knot in the pendant.
David Fann M17 Dulcibella
On 3/18/02 3:34 PM, "Jerry Mongomery" <jmbn@innercite.com> wrote:
One more thing, make sure that the "keeper" tang on the upper aft corner is intact, and riding on the pin in the keel when the board is in its down position. When sailing, it is important that the board hangs on this tang rather than on the pennant. Good luck.
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At 12:34 PM -0800 3/18/02, Jerry Mongomery wrote:
Hi Don- A 1975 17 should be one of the keel/centerboard ones, with a cast iron centerboard if my memory serves me correctly. Correct me if I am wrong.
Sounds like a corner of the board broke off, probably from years of corrosion. Without seeing the board I would say that the only choice other than replacing it would be to have the broken part welded back on, assuming that there is enough sound iron left. Also, your welder should know this, but be sure that the board is heated enough so that it will not develop cracks from differential expansion caused by heat from the welding.
One more thing, make sure that the "keeper" tang on the upper aft corner is intact, and riding on the pin in the keel when the board is in its down position. When sailing, it is important that the board hangs on this tang rather than on the pennant. Good luck.
Jerry
I may be mistaken, but the advise I've seen on this list is contrary to the above statement.... that you don't want the board all the way down with it's weight on the pin, but to take it all the way down and then pull it up 2" and knot it there so it hangs pretty much from the pennant. I'll take Jerry's advise anytime, but am confused... any comments? -- Cal Spooner M15 #402 spoon@visi.com cspooner@mn.rr.com 763.574.1482
On 3/19/02 5:45 AM, "Cal Spooner" <cspooner@mn.rr.com> wrote:
At 12:34 PM -0800 3/18/02, Jerry Mongomery wrote:
Hi Don- A 1975 17 should be one of the keel/centerboard ones, with a cast iron centerboard if my memory serves me correctly. Correct me if I am wrong.
Sounds like a corner of the board broke off, probably from years of corrosion. Without seeing the board I would say that the only choice other than replacing it would be to have the broken part welded back on, assuming that there is enough sound iron left. Also, your welder should know this, but be sure that the board is heated enough so that it will not develop cracks from differential expansion caused by heat from the welding.
One more thing, make sure that the "keeper" tang on the upper aft corner is intact, and riding on the pin in the keel when the board is in its down position. When sailing, it is important that the board hangs on this tang rather than on the pennant. Good luck.
Jerry
I may be mistaken, but the advise I've seen on this list is contrary to the above statement.... that you don't want the board all the way down with it's weight on the pin, but to take it all the way down and then pull it up 2" and knot it there so it hangs pretty much from the pennant. I'll take Jerry's advise anytime, but am confused... any comments?
I think the magic words are "older M17 with cast iron CB". These things weight about 170# and have a pivot pin forward, and a stopper pin aft. The CB has a tang that fits and rests on the stopper pin. This is in contrast to the M15's and maybe the newer M17's with fiberglass boards and no stopper pin. If the CB is dropped all the way down, it binds in the trunk and will create leverage that will break the board. So to prevent those from dropping, a stopper knot is tied into the pennant to only let it down far enough to function, but not far enough to bind on anything. Howard
participants (6)
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Cal Spooner -
David Fann -
Donald Andrew Miller -
Eugene Lodrini -
Howard Audsley -
Jerry Mongomery