Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
Tim, The M-15 does not come with a topping lift and the out haul is the strap eye on the end of the boom. The two turning blocks that you mention are for the reefs along with the jam cleats that you mentioned. The only thing missing is the reeding line. You may also want to add a reefing hook to the other end of the boom. It makes reeding a lot easier. I'm sure someone on this list will provide you with a narrative on running the reefing line if you request one. Skip On Jul 8, 2012, at 11:48 AM, Tim Erwin <sailtim@yahoo.com> wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
Your boat was built by Bob Eeg. He is on this list and could let you know what is standard. I think what you describe is actually for the reefing, and is being used for another purpose. Do you have a reefing hook on your gooseneck? If you do not, it is really easy to add it. My 1982 boat did not have that. You can find it here: https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=17&... It is the DH 680. That makes it so much easier to reef, especially on the fly. You just loosen the main halyard with the topping lift holding the boom, lower the main to the hook, hook the new tack, and tighten the aft reefing line with the cleat. Voila. So, I would set up my topping lift in some other manner, and also change the outhaul, and use the cleats and blocks you have for the reefing. You then need lines starting on a dead eye on one side of the boom, up through the grommet on the sail, down to the block, and to the cleat. If you don't have dead eyes on the boom, they are very easy to add. One of us can supply pictures if you like. Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com On Jul 8, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Tim Erwin wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
My M15 is also a 2007 model that I bought new directly from Bob Eeg. The topping lift was standard, and the boom-end blocks and cleats are as described by Tim. There was no jiffy reefing system. I sized and tied reefing lines to the free-foooted mainsail grommets. They work fine for reefing, but it does take a bit longer to secure the sail down in the reefing position, versus using a reefing hook and cleat system. Ron Casino M15, "Spirit" San Diego ________________________________ From: Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing Your boat was built by Bob Eeg. He is on this list and could let you know what is standard. I think what you describe is actually for the reefing, and is being used for another purpose. Do you have a reefing hook on your gooseneck? If you do not, it is really easy to add it. My 1982 boat did not have that. You can find it here: https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=17&... It is the DH 680. That makes it so much easier to reef, especially on the fly. You just loosen the main halyard with the topping lift holding the boom, lower the main to the hook, hook the new tack, and tighten the aft reefing line with the cleat. Voila. So, I would set up my topping lift in some other manner, and also change the outhaul, and use the cleats and blocks you have for the reefing. You then need lines starting on a dead eye on one side of the boom, up through the grommet on the sail, down to the block, and to the cleat. If you don't have dead eyes on the boom, they are very easy to add. One of us can supply pictures if you like. Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com On Jul 8, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Tim Erwin wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
The reefing hook is like 25 bucks, and really easy to do. You just take out the cotter pin on the gooseneck, and put the new tack-hook on. That is it. It is really secure when you drop the main and hook it in, and then tighten the halyard. Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:47 AM, judy casino wrote:
My M15 is also a 2007 model that I bought new directly from Bob Eeg. The topping lift was standard, and the boom-end blocks and cleats are as described by Tim. There was no jiffy reefing system. I sized and tied reefing lines to the free-foooted mainsail grommets. They work fine for reefing, but it does take a bit longer to secure the sail down in the reefing position, versus using a reefing hook and cleat system. Ron Casino M15, "Spirit" San Diego
________________________________ From: Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing
Your boat was built by Bob Eeg. He is on this list and could let you know what is standard. I think what you describe is actually for the reefing, and is being used for another purpose. Do you have a reefing hook on your gooseneck? If you do not, it is really easy to add it. My 1982 boat did not have that. You can find it here:
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=17&...
It is the DH 680.
That makes it so much easier to reef, especially on the fly. You just loosen the main halyard with the topping lift holding the boom, lower the main to the hook, hook the new tack, and tighten the aft reefing line with the cleat. Voila. So, I would set up my topping lift in some other manner, and also change the outhaul, and use the cleats and blocks you have for the reefing. You then need lines starting on a dead eye on one side of the boom, up through the grommet on the sail, down to the block, and to the cleat. If you don't have dead eyes on the boom, they are very easy to add. One of us can supply pictures if you like.
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Jul 8, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Tim Erwin wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
I agree that tack cringles are relatively easy to secure with a hook, but I found that a 2-3" loop of light line backed by a plastic ball on the opposite side of the cringle makes securing to the hook faster. Sometimes I had struggled to get the second cringle over the hook with folds of sail in the way. I tried a turning block on either side of the boom with a jam cleat for each, but it takes longer to coil up and secure the long tails than it takes to put cringles over a hook. Trust me, a long tail of rope dangling from the boom while you are tacking in a blow (with help from Senor Murphy) can cause big problems. For the leech cringles, I have a turning block and cleat for each on the starboard side, with eye straps to port. The tails are easier to deal with on the aft end of the boom, and it works okay. Frankly, a line secured to the cringle with 8" or so hanging down each side might work just as well, if you can tie a quick square knot around the boom when it is bouncing around. some kind of ball and socket quick fastener on the ends would be sweet. Incidentally, I have an M17, but I believe it came with the same boom hardware as the 15's of that vintage. Tom Jenkins On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:51 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
The reefing hook is like 25 bucks, and really easy to do. You just take out the cotter pin on the gooseneck, and put the new tack-hook on. That is it. It is really secure when you drop the main and hook it in, and then tighten the halyard.
Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:47 AM, judy casino wrote:
My M15 is also a 2007 model that I bought new directly from Bob Eeg. The topping lift was standard, and the boom-end blocks and cleats are as described by Tim. There was no jiffy reefing system. I sized and tied reefing lines to the free-foooted mainsail grommets. They work fine for reefing, but it does take a bit longer to secure the sail down in the reefing position, versus using a reefing hook and cleat system. Ron Casino M15, "Spirit" San Diego
________________________________ From: Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing
Your boat was built by Bob Eeg. He is on this list and could let you know what is standard. I think what you describe is actually for the reefing, and is being used for another purpose. Do you have a reefing hook on your gooseneck? If you do not, it is really easy to add it. My 1982 boat did not have that. You can find it here:
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=17&...
It is the DH 680.
That makes it so much easier to reef, especially on the fly. You just loosen the main halyard with the topping lift holding the boom, lower the main to the hook, hook the new tack, and tighten the aft reefing line with the cleat. Voila. So, I would set up my topping lift in some other manner, and also change the outhaul, and use the cleats and blocks you have for the reefing. You then need lines starting on a dead eye on one side of the boom, up through the grommet on the sail, down to the block, and to the cleat. If you don't have dead eyes on the boom, they are very easy to add. One of us can supply pictures if you like.
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Jul 8, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Tim Erwin wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
Would someone be so kind as to add a couple pictures to illustrate both the mast end and other end of the boom hardware. As a novice, sometimes the language alone gets in the way of clear understanding. Thanks, Pam M17 Port Townsend, Wa On Jul 8, 2012, at 10:48 AM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
I agree that tack cringles are relatively easy to secure with a hook, but I found that a 2-3" loop of light line backed by a plastic ball on the opposite side of the cringle makes securing to the hook faster. Sometimes I had struggled to get the second cringle over the hook with folds of sail in the way. I tried a turning block on either side of the boom with a jam cleat for each, but it takes longer to coil up and secure the long tails than it takes to put cringles over a hook. Trust me, a long tail of rope dangling from the boom while you are tacking in a blow (with help from Senor Murphy) can cause big problems.
For the leech cringles, I have a turning block and cleat for each on the starboard side, with eye straps to port. The tails are easier to deal with on the aft end of the boom, and it works okay. Frankly, a line secured to the cringle with 8" or so hanging down each side might work just as well, if you can tie a quick square knot around the boom when it is bouncing around. some kind of ball and socket quick fastener on the ends would be sweet.
Incidentally, I have an M17, but I believe it came with the same boom hardware as the 15's of that vintage.
Tom Jenkins
On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:51 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
The reefing hook is like 25 bucks, and really easy to do. You just take out the cotter pin on the gooseneck, and put the new tack-hook on. That is it. It is really secure when you drop the main and hook it in, and then tighten the halyard.
Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:47 AM, judy casino wrote:
My M15 is also a 2007 model that I bought new directly from Bob Eeg. The topping lift was standard, and the boom-end blocks and cleats are as described by Tim. There was no jiffy reefing system. I sized and tied reefing lines to the free-foooted mainsail grommets. They work fine for reefing, but it does take a bit longer to secure the sail down in the reefing position, versus using a reefing hook and cleat system. Ron Casino M15, "Spirit" San Diego
________________________________ From: Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing
Your boat was built by Bob Eeg. He is on this list and could let you know what is standard. I think what you describe is actually for the reefing, and is being used for another purpose. Do you have a reefing hook on your gooseneck? If you do not, it is really easy to add it. My 1982 boat did not have that. You can find it here:
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=17&...
It is the DH 680.
That makes it so much easier to reef, especially on the fly. You just loosen the main halyard with the topping lift holding the boom, lower the main to the hook, hook the new tack, and tighten the aft reefing line with the cleat. Voila. So, I would set up my topping lift in some other manner, and also change the outhaul, and use the cleats and blocks you have for the reefing. You then need lines starting on a dead eye on one side of the boom, up through the grommet on the sail, down to the block, and to the cleat. If you don't have dead eyes on the boom, they are very easy to add. One of us can supply pictures if you like.
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Jul 8, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Tim Erwin wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
I will eventually. I don't have photos right now, and I would have to rig in the driveway. The next time I rig I will take some photos of the setup I use. Maybe some others have their setup photographed! Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 12:59 PM, pam and dana wrote:
Would someone be so kind as to add a couple pictures to illustrate both the mast end and other end of the boom hardware. As a novice, sometimes the language alone gets in the way of clear understanding.
Thanks, Pam M17 Port Townsend, Wa
On Jul 8, 2012, at 10:48 AM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
I agree that tack cringles are relatively easy to secure with a hook, but I found that a 2-3" loop of light line backed by a plastic ball on the opposite side of the cringle makes securing to the hook faster. Sometimes I had struggled to get the second cringle over the hook with folds of sail in the way. I tried a turning block on either side of the boom with a jam cleat for each, but it takes longer to coil up and secure the long tails than it takes to put cringles over a hook. Trust me, a long tail of rope dangling from the boom while you are tacking in a blow (with help from Senor Murphy) can cause big problems.
For the leech cringles, I have a turning block and cleat for each on the starboard side, with eye straps to port. The tails are easier to deal with on the aft end of the boom, and it works okay. Frankly, a line secured to the cringle with 8" or so hanging down each side might work just as well, if you can tie a quick square knot around the boom when it is bouncing around. some kind of ball and socket quick fastener on the ends would be sweet.
Incidentally, I have an M17, but I believe it came with the same boom hardware as the 15's of that vintage.
Tom Jenkins
On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:51 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
The reefing hook is like 25 bucks, and really easy to do. You just take out the cotter pin on the gooseneck, and put the new tack-hook on. That is it. It is really secure when you drop the main and hook it in, and then tighten the halyard.
Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:47 AM, judy casino wrote:
My M15 is also a 2007 model that I bought new directly from Bob Eeg. The topping lift was standard, and the boom-end blocks and cleats are as described by Tim. There was no jiffy reefing system. I sized and tied reefing lines to the free-foooted mainsail grommets. They work fine for reefing, but it does take a bit longer to secure the sail down in the reefing position, versus using a reefing hook and cleat system. Ron Casino M15, "Spirit" San Diego
________________________________ From: Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing
Your boat was built by Bob Eeg. He is on this list and could let you know what is standard. I think what you describe is actually for the reefing, and is being used for another purpose. Do you have a reefing hook on your gooseneck? If you do not, it is really easy to add it. My 1982 boat did not have that. You can find it here:
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=17&...
It is the DH 680.
That makes it so much easier to reef, especially on the fly. You just loosen the main halyard with the topping lift holding the boom, lower the main to the hook, hook the new tack, and tighten the aft reefing line with the cleat. Voila. So, I would set up my topping lift in some other manner, and also change the outhaul, and use the cleats and blocks you have for the reefing. You then need lines starting on a dead eye on one side of the boom, up through the grommet on the sail, down to the block, and to the cleat. If you don't have dead eyes on the boom, they are very easy to add. One of us can supply pictures if you like.
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Jul 8, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Tim Erwin wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
I agree with the idea of photos and drawings when talking with beginners like me about attachment hardware or any detail on the decks of our M-15s and M-17s. Sure would help in setting up our own Wrinkle boats. I would help by not having to drill unnecessary holes in our masts, booms and decks. -------Thanks, Larry in Sacramento (M-15 Old 189 Ps....Neil, If you are out there when are you heading out Folsom Lake (Brown's Ravine) again? I want to see your trailer hitch extension. Mine is such a pain to set up single handed..... -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of pam and dana Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 12:59 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing Would someone be so kind as to add a couple pictures to illustrate both the mast end and other end of the boom hardware. As a novice, sometimes the language alone gets in the way of clear understanding. Thanks, Pam M17 Port Townsend, Wa On Jul 8, 2012, at 10:48 AM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
I agree that tack cringles are relatively easy to secure with a hook, but I found that a 2-3" loop of light line backed by a plastic ball on the opposite side of the cringle makes securing to the hook faster. Sometimes I had struggled to get the second cringle over the hook with folds of sail in the way. I tried a turning block on either side of the boom with a jam cleat for each, but it takes longer to coil up and secure the long tails than it takes to put cringles over a hook. Trust me, a long tail of rope dangling from the boom while you are tacking in a blow (with help from Senor Murphy) can cause big problems.
For the leech cringles, I have a turning block and cleat for each on the starboard side, with eye straps to port. The tails are easier to deal with on the aft end of the boom, and it works okay. Frankly, a line secured to the cringle with 8" or so hanging down each side might work just as well, if you can tie a quick square knot around the boom when it is bouncing around. some kind of ball and socket quick fastener on the ends would be sweet.
Incidentally, I have an M17, but I believe it came with the same boom hardware as the 15's of that vintage.
Tom Jenkins
On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:51 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
The reefing hook is like 25 bucks, and really easy to do. You just take out the cotter pin on the gooseneck, and put the new tack-hook on. That is it. It is really secure when you drop the main and hook it in, and then tighten the halyard.
Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:47 AM, judy casino wrote:
My M15 is also a 2007 model that I bought new directly from Bob Eeg. The topping lift was standard, and the boom-end blocks and cleats are as described by Tim. There was no jiffy reefing system. I sized and tied reefing lines to the free-foooted mainsail grommets. They work fine for reefing, but it does take a bit longer to secure the sail down in the reefing position, versus using a reefing hook and cleat system. Ron Casino M15, "Spirit" San Diego
________________________________ From: Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com
Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing
Your boat was built by Bob Eeg. He is on this list and could let you know what is standard. I think what you describe is actually for the reefing, and is being used for another purpose. Do you have a reefing hook on your gooseneck? If you do not, it is really easy to add it. My 1982 boat did not have that. You can find it here:
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=17&...
It is the DH 680.
That makes it so much easier to reef, especially on the fly. You just loosen the main halyard with the topping lift holding the boom, lower the main to the hook, hook the new tack, and tighten the aft reefing line with the cleat. Voila. So, I would set up my topping lift in some other manner, and also change the outhaul, and use the cleats and blocks you have for the reefing. You then need lines starting on a dead eye on one side of the boom, up through the grommet on the sail, down to the block, and to the cleat. If you don't have dead eyes on the boom, they are very easy to add. One of us can supply pictures if you like.
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Jul 8, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Tim Erwin wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
Hi Larry, Just got back home from Monterey Cruiser Challenge; not sure when I will get TwoCan out next, but will let you know when I do. I can also snap a few pictures to send to you. My next sail actually may be to the Delta. Neil Sent from my iPad On Jul 12, 2012, at 8:55 AM, "Hughston, Larry@DGS" <Larry.Hughston@dgs.ca.gov> wrote:
I agree with the idea of photos and drawings when talking with beginners like me about attachment hardware or any detail on the decks of our M-15s and M-17s. Sure would help in setting up our own Wrinkle boats. I would help by not having to drill unnecessary holes in our masts, booms and decks..
-------Thanks, Larry in Sacramento (M-15 Old 189
Ps....Neil, If you are out there when are you heading out Folsom Lake (Brown's Ravine) again? I want to see your trailer hitch extension. Mine is such a pain to set up single handed.....
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of pam and dana Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 12:59 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing
Would someone be so kind as to add a couple pictures to illustrate both the mast end and other end of the boom hardware. As a novice, sometimes the language alone gets in the way of clear understanding.
Thanks, Pam M17 Port Townsend, Wa
On Jul 8, 2012, at 10:48 AM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
I agree that tack cringles are relatively easy to secure with a hook, but I found that a 2-3" loop of light line backed by a plastic ball on the opposite side of the cringle makes securing to the hook faster. Sometimes I had struggled to get the second cringle over
I now have a Rav4 so I need to setup a new hitch and electrical plugs for boat trailer......Larry Hughston and M-15 Old 189 -----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Neil Dorf Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2012 6:16 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing Hi Larry, Just got back home from Monterey Cruiser Challenge; not sure when I will get TwoCan out next, but will let you know when I do. I can also snap a few pictures to send to you. My next sail actually may be to the Delta. Neil Sent from my iPad On Jul 12, 2012, at 8:55 AM, "Hughston, Larry@DGS" <Larry.Hughston@dgs.ca.gov> wrote:
I agree with the idea of photos and drawings when talking with beginners like me about attachment hardware or any detail on the decks of our M-15s and M-17s. Sure would help in setting up our own Wrinkle boats. I would help by not having to drill unnecessary holes in our masts, booms and decks..
-------Thanks, Larry in Sacramento (M-15 Old 189
Ps....Neil, If you are out there when are you heading out Folsom Lake (Brown's Ravine) again? I want to see your trailer hitch extension. Mine is such a pain to set up single handed.....
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of pam and dana Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 12:59 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing
Would someone be so kind as to add a couple pictures to illustrate both the mast end and other end of the boom hardware. As a novice, sometimes the language alone gets in the way of clear understanding.
Thanks, Pam M17 Port Townsend, Wa
On Jul 8, 2012, at 10:48 AM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
I agree that tack cringles are relatively easy to secure with a hook, but I found that a 2-3" loop of light line backed by a plastic ball on the opposite side of the cringle makes securing to the hook faster. Sometimes I had struggled to get the second cringle over
Hi MBoaters! I am next going to try and make a through hole in my transom to route the gas line and battery cable for my new outboard (nice to finally get a long shaft, actually extra long shaft). I need a diameter 1&3/4" to 2" hole and was planning on using an inexpensive thru hull fitting to do this. Can anyone give me advice if this is a good approach and hints on sealing the transom plywood and how to drill the hole? I would normally over drill the hole, fill with thickened epoxy and then drill with the correct diameter drill but this is a big hole. Appreciate any and all advice!! Thanks Robbin M-23 The Other Woman, M-10 Tonka
Robbin- just use a hole saw to cut the hole. Get a good mandrel and then a saw to match the diameter needed for the terminals for the hole and cable. maybe betterthan thru hulls would be to have rings made with interior flanges, and fasten them in place with boatlife orj epoxy. A machinist could whack them out easily of aluminum, then black anodixe them. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robbin Roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 2:26 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hole in transom for outboard fuel line and battery cable
Hi MBoaters! I am next going to try and make a through hole in my transom to route the gas line and battery cable for my new outboard (nice to finally get a long shaft, actually extra long shaft). I need a diameter 1&3/4" to 2" hole and was planning on using an inexpensive thru hull fitting to do this. Can anyone give me advice if this is a good approach and hints on sealing the transom plywood and how to drill the hole? I would normally over drill the hole, fill with thickened epoxy and then drill with the correct diameter drill but this is a big hole.
Appreciate any and all advice!!
Thanks Robbin M-23 The Other Woman, M-10 Tonka
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 6853 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len Do you have a slow PC? Try Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
When you use the hole saw put the drill in 'reverse'. The teeth won't bite and chip up the gelcoat like it would if the drill is in 'forward'. Joe SeaFrog ----- Original Message ----- From: jerry montgomery To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 6:39 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Hole in transom for outboard fuel line and batterycable Robbin- just use a hole saw to cut the hole. Get a good mandrel and then a saw to match the diameter needed for the terminals for the hole and cable. maybe betterthan thru hulls would be to have rings made with interior flanges, and fasten them in place with boatlife orj epoxy. A machinist could whack them out easily of aluminum, then black anodixe them. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robbin Roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 2:26 PM Subject: M_Boats: Hole in transom for outboard fuel line and battery cable
Hi MBoaters! I am next going to try and make a through hole in my transom to route the gas line and battery cable for my new outboard (nice to finally get a long shaft, actually extra long shaft). I need a diameter 1&3/4" to 2" hole and was planning on using an inexpensive thru hull fitting to do this. Can anyone give me advice if this is a good approach and hints on sealing the transom plywood and how to drill the hole? I would normally over drill the hole, fill with thickened epoxy and then drill with the correct diameter drill but this is a big hole.
Appreciate any and all advice!!
Thanks Robbin M-23 The Other Woman, M-10 Tonka
-- I am using the free version of SPAMfighter. SPAMfighter has removed 6853 of my spam emails to date. Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len Do you have a slow PC? Try Free scan http://www.spamfighter.com/SLOW-PCfighter?cid=sigen
Not sure I understand what you are getting at exactly…what are you doing for the clew end? On my tack end I use the hook on my gooseneck. For the clew end I use the lines from the dead eye on the port side, up through the cringle, down to the cheek block on the starboard side boom, and to a jam cleat. You are right that there are tails that I have to quickly coil and secure. The loose main I then tie around the boom with some line. I do not have a loose footed main. Mine is in a track. Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 10:48 AM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
I agree that tack cringles are relatively easy to secure with a hook, but I found that a 2-3" loop of light line backed by a plastic ball on the opposite side of the cringle makes securing to the hook faster. Sometimes I had struggled to get the second cringle over the hook with folds of sail in the way. I tried a turning block on either side of the boom with a jam cleat for each, but it takes longer to coil up and secure the long tails than it takes to put cringles over a hook. Trust me, a long tail of rope dangling from the boom while you are tacking in a blow (with help from Senor Murphy) can cause big problems.
For the leech cringles, I have a turning block and cleat for each on the starboard side, with eye straps to port. The tails are easier to deal with on the aft end of the boom, and it works okay. Frankly, a line secured to the cringle with 8" or so hanging down each side might work just as well, if you can tie a quick square knot around the boom when it is bouncing around. some kind of ball and socket quick fastener on the ends would be sweet.
Incidentally, I have an M17, but I believe it came with the same boom hardware as the 15's of that vintage.
Tom Jenkins
On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:51 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
The reefing hook is like 25 bucks, and really easy to do. You just take out the cotter pin on the gooseneck, and put the new tack-hook on. That is it. It is really secure when you drop the main and hook it in, and then tighten the halyard.
Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:47 AM, judy casino wrote:
My M15 is also a 2007 model that I bought new directly from Bob Eeg. The topping lift was standard, and the boom-end blocks and cleats are as described by Tim. There was no jiffy reefing system. I sized and tied reefing lines to the free-foooted mainsail grommets. They work fine for reefing, but it does take a bit longer to secure the sail down in the reefing position, versus using a reefing hook and cleat system. Ron Casino M15, "Spirit" San Diego
________________________________ From: Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing
Your boat was built by Bob Eeg. He is on this list and could let you know what is standard. I think what you describe is actually for the reefing, and is being used for another purpose. Do you have a reefing hook on your gooseneck? If you do not, it is really easy to add it. My 1982 boat did not have that. You can find it here:
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=17&...
It is the DH 680.
That makes it so much easier to reef, especially on the fly. You just loosen the main halyard with the topping lift holding the boom, lower the main to the hook, hook the new tack, and tighten the aft reefing line with the cleat. Voila. So, I would set up my topping lift in some other manner, and also change the outhaul, and use the cleats and blocks you have for the reefing. You then need lines starting on a dead eye on one side of the boom, up through the grommet on the sail, down to the block, and to the cleat. If you don't have dead eyes on the boom, they are very easy to add. One of us can supply pictures if you like.
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Jul 8, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Tim Erwin wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
Daniel, I am not sure what a dead eye is in this context, but I think we have about the same rig. I have two reef points at the clew, and each is controlled by a line from an eye strap on the port side, through the cringle, to a block on the starboard opposite, then forward to a jam cleat. I found some beautiful stainless v cleats with fairlead, and they worked great putting the reef in, but I had to release them several times when shaking out the reef because they would re-cleat themselves. At least my boom is getting lighter with all the holes I have drilled and abandoned! Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla On Jul 8, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Daniel Rich wrote:
Not sure I understand what you are getting at exactly…what are you doing for the clew end? On my tack end I use the hook on my gooseneck. For the clew end I use the lines from the dead eye on the port side, up through the cringle, down to the cheek block on the starboard side boom, and to a jam cleat. You are right that there are tails that I have to quickly coil and secure. The loose main I then tie around the boom with some line. I do not have a loose footed main. Mine is in a track.
Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 10:48 AM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
I agree that tack cringles are relatively easy to secure with a hook, but I found that a 2-3" loop of light line backed by a plastic ball on the opposite side of the cringle makes securing to the hook faster. Sometimes I had struggled to get the second cringle over the hook with folds of sail in the way. I tried a turning block on either side of the boom with a jam cleat for each, but it takes longer to coil up and secure the long tails than it takes to put cringles over a hook. Trust me, a long tail of rope dangling from the boom while you are tacking in a blow (with help from Senor Murphy) can cause big problems.
For the leech cringles, I have a turning block and cleat for each on the starboard side, with eye straps to port. The tails are easier to deal with on the aft end of the boom, and it works okay. Frankly, a line secured to the cringle with 8" or so hanging down each side might work just as well, if you can tie a quick square knot around the boom when it is bouncing around. some kind of ball and socket quick fastener on the ends would be sweet.
Incidentally, I have an M17, but I believe it came with the same boom hardware as the 15's of that vintage.
Tom Jenkins
On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:51 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
The reefing hook is like 25 bucks, and really easy to do. You just take out the cotter pin on the gooseneck, and put the new tack-hook on. That is it. It is really secure when you drop the main and hook it in, and then tighten the halyard.
Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:47 AM, judy casino wrote:
My M15 is also a 2007 model that I bought new directly from Bob Eeg. The topping lift was standard, and the boom-end blocks and cleats are as described by Tim. There was no jiffy reefing system. I sized and tied reefing lines to the free-foooted mainsail grommets. They work fine for reefing, but it does take a bit longer to secure the sail down in the reefing position, versus using a reefing hook and cleat system. Ron Casino M15, "Spirit" San Diego
________________________________ From: Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing
Your boat was built by Bob Eeg. He is on this list and could let you know what is standard. I think what you describe is actually for the reefing, and is being used for another purpose. Do you have a reefing hook on your gooseneck? If you do not, it is really easy to add it. My 1982 boat did not have that. You can find it here:
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=17&...
It is the DH 680.
That makes it so much easier to reef, especially on the fly. You just loosen the main halyard with the topping lift holding the boom, lower the main to the hook, hook the new tack, and tighten the aft reefing line with the cleat. Voila. So, I would set up my topping lift in some other manner, and also change the outhaul, and use the cleats and blocks you have for the reefing. You then need lines starting on a dead eye on one side of the boom, up through the grommet on the sail, down to the block, and to the cleat. If you don't have dead eyes on the boom, they are very easy to add. One of us can supply pictures if you like.
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Jul 8, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Tim Erwin wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
Sounds like we have the same setup. I refer to the eye strap as a dead eye. Same thing. I too have multiple holes from various hardware others have put on over the years. Boom lighter. I figure one day a 25 knot gust will come up, and my boom will snap! Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 1:37 PM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
Daniel,
I am not sure what a dead eye is in this context, but I think we have about the same rig. I have two reef points at the clew, and each is controlled by a line from an eye strap on the port side, through the cringle, to a block on the starboard opposite, then forward to a jam cleat. I found some beautiful stainless v cleats with fairlead, and they worked great putting the reef in, but I had to release them several times when shaking out the reef because they would re-cleat themselves. At least my boom is getting lighter with all the holes I have drilled and abandoned!
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
On Jul 8, 2012, at 1:01 PM, Daniel Rich wrote:
Not sure I understand what you are getting at exactly…what are you doing for the clew end? On my tack end I use the hook on my gooseneck. For the clew end I use the lines from the dead eye on the port side, up through the cringle, down to the cheek block on the starboard side boom, and to a jam cleat. You are right that there are tails that I have to quickly coil and secure. The loose main I then tie around the boom with some line. I do not have a loose footed main. Mine is in a track.
Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 10:48 AM, Tom Jenkins wrote:
I agree that tack cringles are relatively easy to secure with a hook, but I found that a 2-3" loop of light line backed by a plastic ball on the opposite side of the cringle makes securing to the hook faster. Sometimes I had struggled to get the second cringle over the hook with folds of sail in the way. I tried a turning block on either side of the boom with a jam cleat for each, but it takes longer to coil up and secure the long tails than it takes to put cringles over a hook. Trust me, a long tail of rope dangling from the boom while you are tacking in a blow (with help from Senor Murphy) can cause big problems.
For the leech cringles, I have a turning block and cleat for each on the starboard side, with eye straps to port. The tails are easier to deal with on the aft end of the boom, and it works okay. Frankly, a line secured to the cringle with 8" or so hanging down each side might work just as well, if you can tie a quick square knot around the boom when it is bouncing around. some kind of ball and socket quick fastener on the ends would be sweet.
Incidentally, I have an M17, but I believe it came with the same boom hardware as the 15's of that vintage.
Tom Jenkins
On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:51 AM, Daniel Rich wrote:
The reefing hook is like 25 bucks, and really easy to do. You just take out the cotter pin on the gooseneck, and put the new tack-hook on. That is it. It is really secure when you drop the main and hook it in, and then tighten the halyard.
Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 9:47 AM, judy casino wrote:
My M15 is also a 2007 model that I bought new directly from Bob Eeg. The topping lift was standard, and the boom-end blocks and cleats are as described by Tim. There was no jiffy reefing system. I sized and tied reefing lines to the free-foooted mainsail grommets. They work fine for reefing, but it does take a bit longer to secure the sail down in the reefing position, versus using a reefing hook and cleat system. Ron Casino M15, "Spirit" San Diego
________________________________ From: Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing
Your boat was built by Bob Eeg. He is on this list and could let you know what is standard. I think what you describe is actually for the reefing, and is being used for another purpose. Do you have a reefing hook on your gooseneck? If you do not, it is really easy to add it. My 1982 boat did not have that. You can find it here:
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=17&...
It is the DH 680.
That makes it so much easier to reef, especially on the fly. You just loosen the main halyard with the topping lift holding the boom, lower the main to the hook, hook the new tack, and tighten the aft reefing line with the cleat. Voila. So, I would set up my topping lift in some other manner, and also change the outhaul, and use the cleats and blocks you have for the reefing. You then need lines starting on a dead eye on one side of the boom, up through the grommet on the sail, down to the block, and to the cleat. If you don't have dead eyes on the boom, they are very easy to add. One of us can supply pictures if you like.
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Jul 8, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Tim Erwin wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
Judy et al, I stand corrected! (like that's never happened before). :-) Daniel and I both have 82 boats built by Jerry. I guess Bob changed things up. Skip On Jul 8, 2012, at 12:47 PM, judy casino <jratesq@yahoo.com> wrote:
My M15 is also a 2007 model that I bought new directly from Bob Eeg. The topping lift was standard, and the boom-end blocks and cleats are as described by Tim. There was no jiffy reefing system. I sized and tied reefing lines to the free-foooted mainsail grommets. They work fine for reefing, but it does take a bit longer to secure the sail down in the reefing position, versus using a reefing hook and cleat system. Ron Casino M15, "Spirit" San Diego
________________________________ From: Daniel Rich <danielgrich@gmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2012 9:26 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing
Your boat was built by Bob Eeg. He is on this list and could let you know what is standard. I think what you describe is actually for the reefing, and is being used for another purpose. Do you have a reefing hook on your gooseneck? If you do not, it is really easy to add it. My 1982 boat did not have that. You can find it here:
https://www.dwyermast.com/items.asp?cat1ID=40&cat1Name=Hardware&familyID=17&...
It is the DH 680.
That makes it so much easier to reef, especially on the fly. You just loosen the main halyard with the topping lift holding the boom, lower the main to the hook, hook the new tack, and tighten the aft reefing line with the cleat. Voila. So, I would set up my topping lift in some other manner, and also change the outhaul, and use the cleats and blocks you have for the reefing. You then need lines starting on a dead eye on one side of the boom, up through the grommet on the sail, down to the block, and to the cleat. If you don't have dead eyes on the boom, they are very easy to add. One of us can supply pictures if you like.
Daniel Rich M15 #208 "Kestrel" danielgrich@gmail.com
On Jul 8, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Tim Erwin wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
I have a 2007 m-15. There is a small block and cleat on the port side of the end of the boom for the topping lift, and a larger block and cleat on the starboard side of the end boom for the main outhaul. Mine had pencil notes on the boom to identify. The reefing is just tied in with short lines (my lines had loops at one end to facilitate) at each reef point on sail. m-15 Anne Bonny ________________________________ From: Tim Erwin <sailtim@yahoo.com> To: "montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, July 8, 2012 11:48 AM Subject: M_Boats: Mainsail reefing Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
Tim: Here is a link to my blog post about reefing the M15. There is a short video that shows it to some degree. http://danielsailingandcycling.wordpress.com/2011/06/28/sailing-kestrel-on-a... Daniel On Jul 8, 2012, at 8:48 AM, Tim Erwin wrote:
Hello from the Texas Redneck Riviera I am new to the boat and new to the group. I have learned a great deal from the discussions and looking to learning more. After sailing my Alberg 30 for many years she became too much for me. I've done a great deal of research on smaller boats and the M15 won out , hands down. I am very fortunate I found one 3 hours from my home. I'm 64 and have MS but I'm going to keep on sailing and this boat is going to allow me to do that. Now for my question. My boat is a 2007 model. Looking around, standard equipment is mainsail reefing . There is no sign of any reefing equipment on the boom. There are two turning blocks and two cleats on the outboard end. They are for the topping lift and outhaul. No other equipment on the boom at all. The mainsail has grommets for double reef! Do you think this boat was delivered incomplete? Do you think the folks that made this boat gave a discount for taking less than standard equipment or stripped down? I'm confused at least. Can anyone help me figure this out. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 # 641 Dark Star, Rockport, Texas
participants (12)
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Daniel Rich -
Hughston, Larry＠DGS -
jerry montgomery -
Joe Murphy -
judy casino -
mrh219＠yahoo.com -
Neil Dorf -
pam and dana -
Robbin Roddewig -
Tim Erwin -
Tom Jenkins -
William Campion