Folks, As an ex-Potter sailor with a 17, I just can't seem to give up the desire to pull into a sandy or muddy beach and jump off for a stroll. I hate to bring this up again, but I am wondering if sand or mud will inevitably jam the centerboard if I come in until the keel touches. Anybody actually tried this, and what happened? Bob has a picture of two 15s on his Montgomery website doing just this, but I don't know how different the keel and centerboard arrangements are. Finally, if the centerboard should jam with some debris, is there any way to pull or push it down without swimming upside down with a pry bar? Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 #626 Scintilla
Hi Tom, I have had my c'board out for a refit. I also do not pass up an opportunity to run my M17 onto a beach for a look-see. Mine is the cast iron c'board variety...neither a bit of mud nor an errant twig could jam that baby up the sleeve! Best thing about trailerables is that we don't have to stay off the beaches! And, if the boat dries out, it is a good excuse for a beer, a couple of sandwiches, and a good book. Cheers, Doug Poco Cambio On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Folks, As an ex-Potter sailor with a 17, I just can't seem to give up the desire to pull into a sandy or muddy beach and jump off for a stroll. I hate to bring this up again, but I am wondering if sand or mud will inevitably jam the centerboard if I come in until the keel touches. Anybody actually tried this, and what happened? Bob has a picture of two 15s on his Montgomery website doing just this, but I don't know how different the keel and centerboard arrangements are. Finally, if the centerboard should jam with some debris, is there any way to pull or push it down without swimming upside down with a pry bar? Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 #626 Scintilla
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Hi Tom, I know of the photo you are referring to. The two of us in our 15's were sailing in company with Larry Yake on Lower Priest Lake. We did nose both boats onto the sandy beach but my intention was to keep the keel and centerboards above the bottom. You can't tell this from the picture but at the stern of the 15's the water is probably 3 ft deep. There is not a lot of clearance between the centerboard and its cavity inside the keel. In my opinion it would not take much grit at all to jam the center board inside the cavity. The other problem we noticed when nosing in the 15's like this is because they were not hard aground any wave action caused quite a bit of abrasion to the bow area in contact with the sand. You don't see Larry in his 17 in that picture, but he is anchored a few yards away in deeper water. The keel/centerboard arrangement on the 15 is the same as the late-1988 and newer 17's. In my opinion it is too much of a risk to the keel/centerboard to beach either boat. Randy M17 #410 Formerly, M15 #407 On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Folks, As an ex-Potter sailor with a 17, I just can't seem to give up the desire to pull into a sandy or muddy beach and jump off for a stroll. I hate to bring this up again, but I am wondering if sand or mud will inevitably jam the centerboard if I come in until the keel touches. Anybody actually tried this, and what happened? Bob has a picture of two 15s on his Montgomery website doing just this, but I don't know how different the keel and centerboard arrangements are. Finally, if the centerboard should jam with some debris, is there any way to pull or push it down without swimming upside down with a pry bar? Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 #626 Scintilla
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Randy and Neil, Clearly wishful thinking on my part, and your comments brought me back to earth. I guess there is no getting away from a dinghy unless the water is warm enough to swim. That reminds me of anchoring at Hanalei Bay on Kauai. The offshore wind was so strong that we were afraid to row the few hundred yards to shore, so we swam in and out with our dry clothes in a waterproof bag. Sorry for the digression (two in one day); a symptom of age, I suspect. Tom M17 Scintilla On Mar 20, 2010, at 1:04 PM, R.K.Graves wrote:
Hi Tom,
I know of the photo you are referring to. The two of us in our 15's were sailing in company with Larry Yake on Lower Priest Lake. We did nose both boats onto the sandy beach but my intention was to keep the keel and centerboards above the bottom. You can't tell this from the picture but at the stern of the 15's the water is probably 3 ft deep. There is not a lot of clearance between the centerboard and its cavity inside the keel. In my opinion it would not take much grit at all to jam the center board inside the cavity. The other problem we noticed when nosing in the 15's like this is because they were not hard aground any wave action caused quite a bit of abrasion to the bow area in contact with the sand. You don't see Larry in his 17 in that picture, but he is anchored a few yards away in deeper water.
The keel/centerboard arrangement on the 15 is the same as the late-1988 and newer 17's. In my opinion it is too much of a risk to the keel/centerboard to beach either boat.
Randy M17 #410 Formerly, M15 #407
On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Folks, As an ex-Potter sailor with a 17, I just can't seem to give up the desire to pull into a sandy or muddy beach and jump off for a stroll. I hate to bring this up again, but I am wondering if sand or mud will inevitably jam the centerboard if I come in until the keel touches. Anybody actually tried this, and what happened? Bob has a picture of two 15s on his Montgomery website doing just this, but I don't know how different the keel and centerboard arrangements are. Finally, if the centerboard should jam with some debris, is there any way to pull or push it down without swimming upside down with a pry bar? Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 #626 Scintilla
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On occasion, I "beach" the boat on our rocky shorelines, which does the hull no favors. Nosing up to the shoreline, I drop my second anchor, with 15' of chain, off the stern, and that will be in deep water, with plenty of scope out. Probably 75 feet or more. As I get close to shore, I cleat the stern anchor line off at a length so when actually on the shore, the chain is stretched out. I then hop ashore with my first anchor or simply a long dock line, that ties to the bow. Once ashore, the weight of the stern anchor chain pulls the boat off the shore. The bow line or anchor holds the boat from drifting out to sea. I'm on shore, the boat is floating free and not banging on anything. To leave, I pull it back in, hop aboard and the process of raising the stern anchor backs me off the beach. Something to consider. On Mar 20, 2010, at 3:04 PM, R.K.Graves wrote:
Hi Tom,
I know of the photo you are referring to. The two of us in our 15's were sailing in company with Larry Yake on Lower Priest Lake. We did nose both boats onto the sandy beach but my intention was to keep the keel and centerboards above the bottom. You can't tell this from the picture but at the stern of the 15's the water is probably 3 ft deep. There is not a lot of clearance between the centerboard and its cavity inside the keel. In my opinion it would not take much grit at all to jam the center board inside the cavity. The other problem we noticed when nosing in the 15's like this is because they were not hard aground any wave action caused quite a bit of abrasion to the bow area in contact with the sand. You don't see Larry in his 17 in that picture, but he is anchored a few yards away in deeper water.
The keel/centerboard arrangement on the 15 is the same as the late-1988 and newer 17's. In my opinion it is too much of a risk to the keel/centerboard to beach either boat.
Randy M17 #410 Formerly, M15 #407
On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Folks, As an ex-Potter sailor with a 17, I just can't seem to give up the desire to pull into a sandy or muddy beach and jump off for a stroll. I hate to bring this up again, but I am wondering if sand or mud will inevitably jam the centerboard if I come in until the keel touches. Anybody actually tried this, and what happened? Bob has a picture of two 15s on his Montgomery website doing just this, but I don't know how different the keel and centerboard arrangements are. Finally, if the centerboard should jam with some debris, is there any way to pull or push it down without swimming upside down with a pry bar? Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 #626 Scintilla
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Howard, I like the idea. I have considered getting one of those hefty bungee cords designed to do the same thing, but using gravity and the chain you already have on board seems less expensive, more elegant, and certainly more durable. Gotta try it. Tom On Mar 21, 2010, at 7:31 AM, Howard Audsley wrote:
On occasion, I "beach" the boat on our rocky shorelines, which does the hull no favors.
Nosing up to the shoreline, I drop my second anchor, with 15' of chain, off the stern, and that will be in deep water, with plenty of scope out. Probably 75 feet or more. As I get close to shore, I cleat the stern anchor line off at a length so when actually on the shore, the chain is stretched out. I then hop ashore with my first anchor or simply a long dock line, that ties to the bow. Once ashore, the weight of the stern anchor chain pulls the boat off the shore. The bow line or anchor holds the boat from drifting out to sea. I'm on shore, the boat is floating free and not banging on anything. To leave, I pull it back in, hop aboard and the process of raising the stern anchor backs me off the beach.
Something to consider.
On Mar 20, 2010, at 3:04 PM, R.K.Graves wrote:
Hi Tom,
I know of the photo you are referring to. The two of us in our 15's were sailing in company with Larry Yake on Lower Priest Lake. We did nose both boats onto the sandy beach but my intention was to keep the keel and centerboards above the bottom. You can't tell this from the picture but at the stern of the 15's the water is probably 3 ft deep. There is not a lot of clearance between the centerboard and its cavity inside the keel. In my opinion it would not take much grit at all to jam the center board inside the cavity. The other problem we noticed when nosing in the 15's like this is because they were not hard aground any wave action caused quite a bit of abrasion to the bow area in contact with the sand. You don't see Larry in his 17 in that picture, but he is anchored a few yards away in deeper water.
The keel/centerboard arrangement on the 15 is the same as the late-1988 and newer 17's. In my opinion it is too much of a risk to the keel/centerboard to beach either boat.
Randy M17 #410 Formerly, M15 #407
On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Folks, As an ex-Potter sailor with a 17, I just can't seem to give up the desire to pull into a sandy or muddy beach and jump off for a stroll. I hate to bring this up again, but I am wondering if sand or mud will inevitably jam the centerboard if I come in until the keel touches. Anybody actually tried this, and what happened? Bob has a picture of two 15s on his Montgomery website doing just this, but I don't know how different the keel and centerboard arrangements are. Finally, if the centerboard should jam with some debris, is there any way to pull or push it down without swimming upside down with a pry bar? Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 #626 Scintilla
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Very clever, Howard. Gives me a good reason to carry more chain, even though the S8 Danforth recommendations are for only 4 feet of chain. ⎈--Gary ☺ On Mar 21, 2010, at 4:31 AM, Howard Audsley wrote:
On occasion, I "beach" the boat on our rocky shorelines, which does the hull no favors.
Nosing up to the shoreline, I drop my second anchor, with 15' of chain, off the stern, and that will be in deep water, with plenty of scope out. Probably 75 feet or more. As I get close to shore, I cleat the stern anchor line off at a length so when actually on the shore, the chain is stretched out. I then hop ashore with my first anchor or simply a long dock line, that ties to the bow. Once ashore, the weight of the stern anchor chain pulls the boat off the shore. The bow line or anchor holds the boat from drifting out to sea. I'm on shore, the boat is floating free and not banging on anything. To leave, I pull it back in, hop aboard and the process of raising the stern anchor backs me off the beach.
Something to consider.
On Mar 20, 2010, at 3:04 PM, R.K.Graves wrote:
Hi Tom,
I know of the photo you are referring to. The two of us in our 15's were sailing in company with Larry Yake on Lower Priest Lake. We did nose both boats onto the sandy beach but my intention was to keep the keel and centerboards above the bottom. You can't tell this from the picture but at the stern of the 15's the water is probably 3 ft deep. There is not a lot of clearance between the centerboard and its cavity inside the keel. In my opinion it would not take much grit at all to jam the center board inside the cavity. The other problem we noticed when nosing in the 15's like this is because they were not hard aground any wave action caused quite a bit of abrasion to the bow area in contact with the sand. You don't see Larry in his 17 in that picture, but he is anchored a few yards away in deeper water.
The keel/centerboard arrangement on the 15 is the same as the late-1988 and newer 17's. In my opinion it is too much of a risk to the keel/centerboard to beach either boat.
Randy M17 #410 Formerly, M15 #407
On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Folks, As an ex-Potter sailor with a 17, I just can't seem to give up the desire to pull into a sandy or muddy beach and jump off for a stroll. I hate to bring this up again, but I am wondering if sand or mud will inevitably jam the centerboard if I come in until the keel touches. Anybody actually tried this, and what happened? Bob has a picture of two 15s on his Montgomery website doing just this, but I don't know how different the keel and centerboard arrangements are. Finally, if the centerboard should jam with some debris, is there any way to pull or push it down without swimming upside down with a pry bar? Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 #626 Scintilla
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Just a comment on chain- I've seen where M owners have remarked on boats sailing at anchor, but I've never had that problem except for the 23. Could it be that the reason for this is the fact that I always use at least 20 feet of chain? I think it's a possibility. I've spent the nite on boats that had a short, light chain, and the difference is pronounced in terms of jerking around on the anchor. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Howard Audsley" <haudsley@tranquility.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 7:31 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: shallow water On occasion, I "beach" the boat on our rocky shorelines, which does the hull no favors. Nosing up to the shoreline, I drop my second anchor, with 15' of chain, off the stern, and that will be in deep water, with plenty of scope out. Probably 75 feet or more. As I get close to shore, I cleat the stern anchor line off at a length so when actually on the shore, the chain is stretched out. I then hop ashore with my first anchor or simply a long dock line, that ties to the bow. Once ashore, the weight of the stern anchor chain pulls the boat off the shore. The bow line or anchor holds the boat from drifting out to sea. I'm on shore, the boat is floating free and not banging on anything. To leave, I pull it back in, hop aboard and the process of raising the stern anchor backs me off the beach. Something to consider. On Mar 20, 2010, at 3:04 PM, R.K.Graves wrote:
Hi Tom,
I know of the photo you are referring to. The two of us in our 15's were sailing in company with Larry Yake on Lower Priest Lake. We did nose both boats onto the sandy beach but my intention was to keep the keel and centerboards above the bottom. You can't tell this from the picture but at the stern of the 15's the water is probably 3 ft deep. There is not a lot of clearance between the centerboard and its cavity inside the keel. In my opinion it would not take much grit at all to jam the center board inside the cavity. The other problem we noticed when nosing in the 15's like this is because they were not hard aground any wave action caused quite a bit of abrasion to the bow area in contact with the sand. You don't see Larry in his 17 in that picture, but he is anchored a few yards away in deeper water.
The keel/centerboard arrangement on the 15 is the same as the late-1988 and newer 17's. In my opinion it is too much of a risk to the keel/centerboard to beach either boat.
Randy M17 #410 Formerly, M15 #407
On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Folks, As an ex-Potter sailor with a 17, I just can't seem to give up the desire to pull into a sandy or muddy beach and jump off for a stroll. I hate to bring this up again, but I am wondering if sand or mud will inevitably jam the centerboard if I come in until the keel touches. Anybody actually tried this, and what happened? Bob has a picture of two 15s on his Montgomery website doing just this, but I don't know how different the keel and centerboard arrangements are. Finally, if the centerboard should jam with some debris, is there any way to pull or push it down without swimming upside down with a pry bar? Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 #626 Scintilla
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Great food for thought. I had heard from someone that the chain should be 2/3 the length of the boat. I have 12' of 1/4" chain on 1/2" nylon rode. I haven't used this anchor rig yet but will check it out. I thought the cause of 'sailing at anchor' was due to having the anchor rode pulling off center through the bow chocks. The offsetting slack and tautness caused by even the slightest sea roll would put enough yaw that it would cause pointing back and forth in different directions and that the only solution was to mount a bow roller right off the nose. However, before I think about a bow roller I think I'll test out different lengths of chain like you suggest. I also heard that your anchor should weigh more than your chain??? I haven't figured out the logic for that one... Joe M17 Seafrog #651 ----- Original Message ----- From: jerry To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 3:25 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: shallow water Just a comment on chain- I've seen where M owners have remarked on boats sailing at anchor, but I've never had that problem except for the 23. Could it be that the reason for this is the fact that I always use at least 20 feet of chain? I think it's a possibility. I've spent the nite on boats that had a short, light chain, and the difference is pronounced in terms of jerking around on the anchor. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Howard Audsley" <haudsley@tranquility.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 7:31 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: shallow water On occasion, I "beach" the boat on our rocky shorelines, which does the hull no favors. Nosing up to the shoreline, I drop my second anchor, with 15' of chain, off the stern, and that will be in deep water, with plenty of scope out. Probably 75 feet or more. As I get close to shore, I cleat the stern anchor line off at a length so when actually on the shore, the chain is stretched out. I then hop ashore with my first anchor or simply a long dock line, that ties to the bow. Once ashore, the weight of the stern anchor chain pulls the boat off the shore. The bow line or anchor holds the boat from drifting out to sea. I'm on shore, the boat is floating free and not banging on anything. To leave, I pull it back in, hop aboard and the process of raising the stern anchor backs me off the beach. Something to consider. On Mar 20, 2010, at 3:04 PM, R.K.Graves wrote:
Hi Tom,
I know of the photo you are referring to. The two of us in our 15's were sailing in company with Larry Yake on Lower Priest Lake. We did nose both boats onto the sandy beach but my intention was to keep the keel and centerboards above the bottom. You can't tell this from the picture but at the stern of the 15's the water is probably 3 ft deep. There is not a lot of clearance between the centerboard and its cavity inside the keel. In my opinion it would not take much grit at all to jam the center board inside the cavity. The other problem we noticed when nosing in the 15's like this is because they were not hard aground any wave action caused quite a bit of abrasion to the bow area in contact with the sand. You don't see Larry in his 17 in that picture, but he is anchored a few yards away in deeper water.
The keel/centerboard arrangement on the 15 is the same as the late-1988 and newer 17's. In my opinion it is too much of a risk to the keel/centerboard to beach either boat.
Randy M17 #410 Formerly, M15 #407
On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Folks, As an ex-Potter sailor with a 17, I just can't seem to give up the desire to pull into a sandy or muddy beach and jump off for a stroll. I hate to bring this up again, but I am wondering if sand or mud will inevitably jam the centerboard if I come in until the keel touches. Anybody actually tried this, and what happened? Bob has a picture of two 15s on his Montgomery website doing just this, but I don't know how different the keel and centerboard arrangements are. Finally, if the centerboard should jam with some debris, is there any way to pull or push it down without swimming upside down with a pry bar? Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 #626 Scintilla
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Another thought.... If the chain doesn't work, I'll try to create a bridle through the opposing bow chock to make the pull of the rode even with the center line of the boat..... Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Joe Murphy To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 1:00 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: shallow water Great food for thought. I had heard from someone that the chain should be 2/3 the length of the boat. I have 12' of 1/4" chain on 1/2" nylon rode. I haven't used this anchor rig yet but will check it out. I thought the cause of 'sailing at anchor' was due to having the anchor rode pulling off center through the bow chocks. The offsetting slack and tautness caused by even the slightest sea roll would put enough yaw that it would cause pointing back and forth in different directions and that the only solution was to mount a bow roller right off the nose. However, before I think about a bow roller I think I'll test out different lengths of chain like you suggest. I also heard that your anchor should weigh more than your chain??? I haven't figured out the logic for that one... Joe M17 Seafrog #651 ----- Original Message ----- From: jerry To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 3:25 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: shallow water Just a comment on chain- I've seen where M owners have remarked on boats sailing at anchor, but I've never had that problem except for the 23. Could it be that the reason for this is the fact that I always use at least 20 feet of chain? I think it's a possibility. I've spent the nite on boats that had a short, light chain, and the difference is pronounced in terms of jerking around on the anchor. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Howard Audsley" <haudsley@tranquility.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 7:31 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: shallow water On occasion, I "beach" the boat on our rocky shorelines, which does the hull no favors. Nosing up to the shoreline, I drop my second anchor, with 15' of chain, off the stern, and that will be in deep water, with plenty of scope out. Probably 75 feet or more. As I get close to shore, I cleat the stern anchor line off at a length so when actually on the shore, the chain is stretched out. I then hop ashore with my first anchor or simply a long dock line, that ties to the bow. Once ashore, the weight of the stern anchor chain pulls the boat off the shore. The bow line or anchor holds the boat from drifting out to sea. I'm on shore, the boat is floating free and not banging on anything. To leave, I pull it back in, hop aboard and the process of raising the stern anchor backs me off the beach. Something to consider. On Mar 20, 2010, at 3:04 PM, R.K.Graves wrote: > Hi Tom, > > I know of the photo you are referring to. The two of us in our 15's > were sailing in company with Larry Yake on Lower Priest Lake. We did > nose both boats onto the sandy beach but my intention was to keep the > keel and centerboards above the bottom. You can't tell this from the > picture but at the stern of the 15's the water is probably 3 ft deep. > There is not a lot of clearance between the centerboard and its cavity > inside the keel. In my opinion it would not take much grit at all to > jam the center board inside the cavity. The other problem we noticed > when nosing in the 15's like this is because they were not hard > aground any wave action caused quite a bit of abrasion to the bow area > in contact with the sand. You don't see Larry in his 17 in that > picture, but he is anchored a few yards away in deeper water. > > The keel/centerboard arrangement on the 15 is the same as the > late-1988 and newer 17's. In my opinion it is too much of a risk to > the keel/centerboard to beach either boat. > > Randy > M17 #410 > Formerly, M15 #407 > > On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote: >> Folks, >> As an ex-Potter sailor with a 17, I just can't seem to give up the desire >> to >> pull into a sandy or muddy beach and jump off for a stroll. I hate to >> bring >> this up again, but I am wondering if sand or mud will inevitably jam the >> centerboard if I come in until the keel touches. Anybody actually tried >> this, and what happened? Bob has a picture of two 15s on his Montgomery >> website doing just this, but I don't know how different the keel and >> centerboard arrangements are. Finally, if the centerboard should jam with >> some debris, is there any way to pull or push it down without swimming >> upside down with a pry bar? >> Thanks, >> Tom Jenkins >> M17 #626 Scintilla >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats >> >> Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! >> > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Joe: Check out the Pardey's "Storm Tactics". They show how to stop the tacking when using a sea anchor; I'm going to try it with ground anchoring. Basically they run a line from a sheet winch out to a snatch block that rolls along the anchor line. They adjust the length of that auxiliary line to keep the boat at an angle to the wind such that it won't tack. --Gary Hyde 2005 M17 #637 sailboat 'Hydeaway 2' On Mar 23, 2010, at 7:06 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Another thought.... If the chain doesn't work, I'll try to create a bridle through the opposing bow chock to make the pull of the rode even with the center line of the boat..... Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Joe Murphy To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 1:00 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: shallow water
Great food for thought. I had heard from someone that the chain should be 2/3 the length of the boat. I have 12' of 1/4" chain on 1/2" nylon rode. I haven't used this anchor rig yet but will check it out. I thought the cause of 'sailing at anchor' was due to having the anchor rode pulling off center through the bow chocks. The offsetting slack and tautness caused by even the slightest sea roll would put enough yaw that it would cause pointing back and forth in different directions and that the only solution was to mount a bow roller right off the nose. However, before I think about a bow roller I think I'll test out different lengths of chain like you suggest. I also heard that your anchor should weigh more than your chain??? I haven't figured out the logic for that one... Joe M17 Seafrog #651 ----- Original Message ----- From: jerry To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 3:25 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: shallow water
Just a comment on chain- I've seen where M owners have remarked on boats sailing at anchor, but I've never had that problem except for the 23. Could it be that the reason for this is the fact that I always use at least 20 feet of chain? I think it's a possibility. I've spent the nite on boats that had a short, light chain, and the difference is pronounced in terms of jerking around on the anchor.
jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Howard Audsley" <haudsley@tranquility.net> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 7:31 AM Subject: Re: M_Boats: shallow water
On occasion, I "beach" the boat on our rocky shorelines, which does the hull no favors.
Nosing up to the shoreline, I drop my second anchor, with 15' of chain, off the stern, and that will be in deep water, with plenty of scope out. Probably 75 feet or more. As I get close to shore, I cleat the stern anchor line off at a length so when actually on the shore, the chain is stretched out. I then hop ashore with my first anchor or simply a long dock line, that ties to the bow. Once ashore, the weight of the stern anchor chain pulls the boat off the shore. The bow line or anchor holds the boat from drifting out to sea. I'm on shore, the boat is floating free and not banging on anything. To leave, I pull it back in, hop aboard and the process of raising the stern anchor backs me off the beach.
Something to consider.
On Mar 20, 2010, at 3:04 PM, R.K.Graves wrote:
Hi Tom,
I know of the photo you are referring to. The two of us in our 15's were sailing in company with Larry Yake on Lower Priest Lake. We did nose both boats onto the sandy beach but my intention was to keep the keel and centerboards above the bottom. You can't tell this from the picture but at the stern of the 15's the water is probably 3 ft deep. There is not a lot of clearance between the centerboard and its cavity inside the keel. In my opinion it would not take much grit at all to jam the center board inside the cavity. The other problem we noticed when nosing in the 15's like this is because they were not hard aground any wave action caused quite a bit of abrasion to the bow area in contact with the sand. You don't see Larry in his 17 in that picture, but he is anchored a few yards away in deeper water.
The keel/centerboard arrangement on the 15 is the same as the late-1988 and newer 17's. In my opinion it is too much of a risk to the keel/centerboard to beach either boat.
Randy M17 #410 Formerly, M15 #407
On Sat, Mar 20, 2010 at 12:19 PM, Tom Jenkins <tjenk@gte.net> wrote:
Folks, As an ex-Potter sailor with a 17, I just can't seem to give up the desire to pull into a sandy or muddy beach and jump off for a stroll. I hate to bring this up again, but I am wondering if sand or mud will inevitably jam the centerboard if I come in until the keel touches. Anybody actually tried this, and what happened? Bob has a picture of two 15s on his Montgomery website doing just this, but I don't know how different the keel and centerboard arrangements are. Finally, if the centerboard should jam with some debris, is there any way to pull or push it down without swimming upside down with a pry bar? Thanks, Tom Jenkins M17 #626 Scintilla
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Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making companionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the material without it chipping and cracking. Joe M17 Seafrog #651
Joe, Get your yourself a good router and a jig. You'll cut right through the material and have a nice clean cut. I can assist you if you'd like off list. Skip M-15 #201 1982 Wild Guppy -----Original Message----- From: Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tue, Mar 23, 2010 1:14 pm Subject: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making ompanionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the aterial without it chipping and cracking. oe 17 Seafrog #651 ______________________________________________ ttp://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Thanks Skip. I would like to pick your brain. My email is seagray@embarqmail.com Thanks for your help. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: wcampion@aol.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 1:27 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan Joe, Get your yourself a good router and a jig. You'll cut right through the material and have a nice clean cut. I can assist you if you'd like off list. Skip M-15 #201 1982 Wild Guppy -----Original Message----- From: Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tue, Mar 23, 2010 1:14 pm Subject: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making ompanionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the aterial without it chipping and cracking. oe 17 Seafrog #651 ______________________________________________ ttp://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
I have never had good luck with plexiglass but I have had very good luck with lexan. Race car stuff. At your service Larry Pegg Pilgrim M-17 #55 -----Original Message----- From: Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tue, Mar 23, 2010 11:14 am Subject: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making companionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the material without it chipping and cracking. Joe M17 Seafrog #651 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Thanks, That's what I've gathered reading the web. I've got a good source of smoke colored lexan but they can't cut anything more than perfect 90 degree cuts. Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Larry Pegg To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 1:52 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan I have never had good luck with plexiglass but I have had very good luck with lexan. Race car stuff. At your service Larry Pegg Pilgrim M-17 #55 -----Original Message----- From: Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tue, Mar 23, 2010 11:14 am Subject: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making companionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the material without it chipping and cracking. Joe M17 Seafrog #651 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Joe, I used about eight 4'x8' sheets of 1/4" polycarbonate to make a greenhouse, and did many cuts with a portable circular saw with a fine-tooth blade, and a fine-toothed hand saw. I also drilled many holes. I never experienced cracking or chipping. As far as I know, the polycarbonate I used (Cyrolon) is no different from that sold under the Lexan brand name. I used the stuff because it is hammered by 4' thick chunks of ice and snow sliding off our roof, and it doesn't flinch. Fifteen years of UV from vertical sunlight at 7400' elevation has caused some clouding, but in your application it would be forever. If you like, send me your address, and I will mail you a chunk of the PC to play with. By the way, nice looking boat. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla On Mar 23, 2010, at 10:14 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making companionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the material without it chipping and cracking. Joe M17 Seafrog #651 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Tom, Thanks so much for the offer. I'd be glad to reimburse you for the mailing costs. 570 Coral Dr Apt P-4 Atlantic Beach, NC 28512 Looks like just about anything short of a chain saw would work... Joe M17 Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 12:28 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan Joe, I used about eight 4'x8' sheets of 1/4" polycarbonate to make a greenhouse, and did many cuts with a portable circular saw with a fine-tooth blade, and a fine-toothed hand saw. I also drilled many holes. I never experienced cracking or chipping. As far as I know, the polycarbonate I used (Cyrolon) is no different from that sold under the Lexan brand name. I used the stuff because it is hammered by 4' thick chunks of ice and snow sliding off our roof, and it doesn't flinch. Fifteen years of UV from vertical sunlight at 7400' elevation has caused some clouding, but in your application it would be forever. If you like, send me your address, and I will mail you a chunk of the PC to play with. By the way, nice looking boat. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla On Mar 23, 2010, at 10:14 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making companionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the material without it chipping and cracking. Joe M17 Seafrog #651 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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The only reason to buy Lexan , instead of some other manufacturer's polycarbonate is when you cannot tolerate any optical distortion. When it comes to optical clarity, Lexan is your best choice. All polycarbonates can be affected by certain hydrocarbons, particularly by paint and lacquer thinners, so when cleaning, soap and water is the safest bet.. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" < seagray @ embarqmail .com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" < montgomery_boats @mailman. xmission .com> Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 3:01:40 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern Subject: Re: M_Boats : Plexiglass / Lexan Tom, Thanks so much for the offer. I'd be glad to reimburse you for the mailing costs. 570 Coral Dr Apt P-4 Atlantic Beach, NC 28512 Looks like just about anything short of a chain saw would work... Joe M17 Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 12:28 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats : Plexiglass / Lexan Joe, I used about eight 4'x8' sheets of 1/4" polycarbonate to make a greenhouse, and did many cuts with a portable circular saw with a fine-tooth blade, and a fine-toothed hand saw. I also drilled many holes. I never experienced cracking or chipping. As far as I know, the polycarbonate I used ( Cyrolon ) is no different from that sold under the Lexan brand name. I used the stuff because it is hammered by 4' thick chunks of ice and snow sliding off our roof, and it doesn't flinch. Fifteen years of UV from vertical sunlight at 7400' elevation has caused some clouding, but in your application it would be forever. If you like, send me your address, and I will mail you a chunk of the PC to play with. By the way, nice looking boat. Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla On Mar 23, 2010, at 10:14 AM, Joe Murphy wrote: > Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass ? I'm > thinking of making companionway doors but I keep hearing about how > difficult it is to cut the material without it chipping and cracking. > Joe > M17 Seafrog #651 > _______________________________________________ > http ://mailman. xmission .com/cgi-bin/mailman/ listinfo / montgomery_boats > > Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http ://mailman. xmission .com/cgi-bin/mailman/ listinfo / montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http ://mailman. xmission .com/cgi-bin/mailman/ listinfo / montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Joe, The sample piece is on its way. If the polycarbonate works out, how about giving us an account of your new doors. Tom On Mar 24, 2010, at 12:01 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Tom, Thanks so much for the offer. I'd be glad to reimburse you for the mailing costs. 570 Coral Dr Apt P-4 Atlantic Beach, NC 28512 Looks like just about anything short of a chain saw would work... Joe M17 Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 12:28 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan
Joe, I used about eight 4'x8' sheets of 1/4" polycarbonate to make a greenhouse, and did many cuts with a portable circular saw with a fine-tooth blade, and a fine-toothed hand saw. I also drilled many holes. I never experienced cracking or chipping. As far as I know, the polycarbonate I used (Cyrolon) is no different from that sold under the Lexan brand name. I used the stuff because it is hammered by 4' thick chunks of ice and snow sliding off our roof, and it doesn't flinch. Fifteen years of UV from vertical sunlight at 7400' elevation has caused some clouding, but in your application it would be forever. If you like, send me your address, and I will mail you a chunk of the PC to play with.
By the way, nice looking boat.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
On Mar 23, 2010, at 10:14 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making companionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the material without it chipping and cracking. Joe M17 Seafrog #651 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Thanks Tom. If successful, I will share the results. Joe Seafrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 4:12 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan Joe, The sample piece is on its way. If the polycarbonate works out, how about giving us an account of your new doors. Tom On Mar 24, 2010, at 12:01 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Tom, Thanks so much for the offer. I'd be glad to reimburse you for the mailing costs. 570 Coral Dr Apt P-4 Atlantic Beach, NC 28512 Looks like just about anything short of a chain saw would work... Joe M17 Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 12:28 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan
Joe, I used about eight 4'x8' sheets of 1/4" polycarbonate to make a greenhouse, and did many cuts with a portable circular saw with a fine-tooth blade, and a fine-toothed hand saw. I also drilled many holes. I never experienced cracking or chipping. As far as I know, the polycarbonate I used (Cyrolon) is no different from that sold under the Lexan brand name. I used the stuff because it is hammered by 4' thick chunks of ice and snow sliding off our roof, and it doesn't flinch. Fifteen years of UV from vertical sunlight at 7400' elevation has caused some clouding, but in your application it would be forever. If you like, send me your address, and I will mail you a chunk of the PC to play with.
By the way, nice looking boat.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
On Mar 23, 2010, at 10:14 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making companionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the material without it chipping and cracking. Joe M17 Seafrog #651 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ montgomery_boats
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Tom, I recieved the PC sample today. Thanks so much. Do you know if it comes in a smoke color?? I'll do some checking on the web, but I seem to recall Bob Eeg saying that Lexan only comes in clear. Don't know if that includes PC. Thanks again, Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 4:12 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan Joe, The sample piece is on its way. If the polycarbonate works out, how about giving us an account of your new doors. Tom On Mar 24, 2010, at 12:01 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Tom, Thanks so much for the offer. I'd be glad to reimburse you for the mailing costs. 570 Coral Dr Apt P-4 Atlantic Beach, NC 28512 Looks like just about anything short of a chain saw would work... Joe M17 Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 12:28 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan
Joe, I used about eight 4'x8' sheets of 1/4" polycarbonate to make a greenhouse, and did many cuts with a portable circular saw with a fine-tooth blade, and a fine-toothed hand saw. I also drilled many holes. I never experienced cracking or chipping. As far as I know, the polycarbonate I used (Cyrolon) is no different from that sold under the Lexan brand name. I used the stuff because it is hammered by 4' thick chunks of ice and snow sliding off our roof, and it doesn't flinch. Fifteen years of UV from vertical sunlight at 7400' elevation has caused some clouding, but in your application it would be forever. If you like, send me your address, and I will mail you a chunk of the PC to play with.
By the way, nice looking boat.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
On Mar 23, 2010, at 10:14 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making companionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the material without it chipping and cracking. Joe M17 Seafrog #651 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Joe, The lexan forward hatch on my Nor'Sea is translucent rather than transparent on one side like many shower doors; good idea for a cabin door, and it might let in more light than a smoke color. Mine was installed on my new boat by Heritage Marine, but Bob took over not long after my boat was completed, and probably knows the source. I wonder if a little blasting with fine sand on one side is the way the stuff is made. Tom On Mar 29, 2010, at 2:26 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Tom, I recieved the PC sample today. Thanks so much. Do you know if it comes in a smoke color?? I'll do some checking on the web, but I seem to recall Bob Eeg saying that Lexan only comes in clear. Don't know if that includes PC. Thanks again, Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 4:12 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan
Joe, The sample piece is on its way. If the polycarbonate works out, how about giving us an account of your new doors. Tom On Mar 24, 2010, at 12:01 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Tom, Thanks so much for the offer. I'd be glad to reimburse you for the mailing costs. 570 Coral Dr Apt P-4 Atlantic Beach, NC 28512 Looks like just about anything short of a chain saw would work... Joe M17 Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 12:28 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan
Joe, I used about eight 4'x8' sheets of 1/4" polycarbonate to make a greenhouse, and did many cuts with a portable circular saw with a fine-tooth blade, and a fine-toothed hand saw. I also drilled many holes. I never experienced cracking or chipping. As far as I know, the polycarbonate I used (Cyrolon) is no different from that sold under the Lexan brand name. I used the stuff because it is hammered by 4' thick chunks of ice and snow sliding off our roof, and it doesn't flinch. Fifteen years of UV from vertical sunlight at 7400' elevation has caused some clouding, but in your application it would be forever. If you like, send me your address, and I will mail you a chunk of the PC to play with.
By the way, nice looking boat.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
On Mar 23, 2010, at 10:14 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making companionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the material without it chipping and cracking. Joe M17 Seafrog #651 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
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Hi Tom For the Nor'Sea 27 we buy normal Lexan that is 3/8th inch thick. We make it translucent by using a BUG SANDER on one side. This has worked well for 30 years. On cleaning scratches off Acrylic windows, do not use Acetone and only use cotton. No paper. Toothpaste does work; on one of my old Airplanes we would use MEGUIARS MIRROR GLAZE FINE CUT...but if you use an electric buffer be careful about burning the plastic. Some people have used metal polish in a tube with good results. (by hand). Fair winds, Bob www.montgomeryboats.com www.norseayachts.com (949) 489-8227
From: tjenk@gte.net Date: Mon, 29 Mar 2010 16:42:36 -0700 To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan
Joe, The lexan forward hatch on my Nor'Sea is translucent rather than transparent on one side like many shower doors; good idea for a cabin door, and it might let in more light than a smoke color. Mine was installed on my new boat by Heritage Marine, but Bob took over not long after my boat was completed, and probably knows the source. I wonder if a little blasting with fine sand on one side is the way the stuff is made. Tom On Mar 29, 2010, at 2:26 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Tom, I recieved the PC sample today. Thanks so much. Do you know if it comes in a smoke color?? I'll do some checking on the web, but I seem to recall Bob Eeg saying that Lexan only comes in clear. Don't know if that includes PC. Thanks again, Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 4:12 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan
Joe, The sample piece is on its way. If the polycarbonate works out, how about giving us an account of your new doors. Tom On Mar 24, 2010, at 12:01 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Tom, Thanks so much for the offer. I'd be glad to reimburse you for the mailing costs. 570 Coral Dr Apt P-4 Atlantic Beach, NC 28512 Looks like just about anything short of a chain saw would work... Joe M17 Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 12:28 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan
Joe, I used about eight 4'x8' sheets of 1/4" polycarbonate to make a greenhouse, and did many cuts with a portable circular saw with a fine-tooth blade, and a fine-toothed hand saw. I also drilled many holes. I never experienced cracking or chipping. As far as I know, the polycarbonate I used (Cyrolon) is no different from that sold under the Lexan brand name. I used the stuff because it is hammered by 4' thick chunks of ice and snow sliding off our roof, and it doesn't flinch. Fifteen years of UV from vertical sunlight at 7400' elevation has caused some clouding, but in your application it would be forever. If you like, send me your address, and I will mail you a chunk of the PC to play with.
By the way, nice looking boat.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
On Mar 23, 2010, at 10:14 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making companionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the material without it chipping and cracking. Joe M17 Seafrog #651 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/ montgomery_boats
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A word of caution! I used a 12 " cut off saw that comes down in the middle of the cut . The Lexan blew up and pieces went wising by me , bent the blade and took out the bearings. Lexan rep said this is normal as the Lexan is very brittle.
From Terry Osborn terryoz@aceweb.com
----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Monday, March 29, 2010 2:26 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan Tom, I recieved the PC sample today. Thanks so much. Do you know if it comes in a smoke color?? I'll do some checking on the web, but I seem to recall Bob Eeg saying that Lexan only comes in clear. Don't know if that includes PC. Thanks again, Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 4:12 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan Joe, The sample piece is on its way. If the polycarbonate works out, how about giving us an account of your new doors. Tom On Mar 24, 2010, at 12:01 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Tom, Thanks so much for the offer. I'd be glad to reimburse you for the mailing costs. 570 Coral Dr Apt P-4 Atlantic Beach, NC 28512 Looks like just about anything short of a chain saw would work... Joe M17 Seafrog ----- Original Message ----- From: Tom Jenkins To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 12:28 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Plexiglass / Lexan
Joe, I used about eight 4'x8' sheets of 1/4" polycarbonate to make a greenhouse, and did many cuts with a portable circular saw with a fine-tooth blade, and a fine-toothed hand saw. I also drilled many holes. I never experienced cracking or chipping. As far as I know, the polycarbonate I used (Cyrolon) is no different from that sold under the Lexan brand name. I used the stuff because it is hammered by 4' thick chunks of ice and snow sliding off our roof, and it doesn't flinch. Fifteen years of UV from vertical sunlight at 7400' elevation has caused some clouding, but in your application it would be forever. If you like, send me your address, and I will mail you a chunk of the PC to play with.
By the way, nice looking boat.
Tom Jenkins M17 Scintilla
On Mar 23, 2010, at 10:14 AM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Has anyone ever worked with either Lexan or Plexiglass? I'm thinking of making companionway doors but I keep hearing about how difficult it is to cut the material without it chipping and cracking. Joe M17 Seafrog #651 _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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Jerry, Are you going to share the designs on your new 16'r for the rest of us that couldn't attend the Havasu Regatta or is this a ploy to get more folks to attend....
It's a ploy to get more people to attend! Actually, i think there's going to be a website up soon with all that stuff. jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Murphy" <seagray@embarqmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2010 10:19 AM Subject: M_Boats: The New 16
Jerry, Are you going to share the designs on your new 16'r for the rest of us that couldn't attend the Havasu Regatta or is this a ploy to get more folks to attend.... _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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participants (12)
-
Bob From California -
doug henning -
Gary M Hyde -
Howard Audsley -
jerry -
Joe Murphy -
Larry Pegg -
n9ca＠comcast.net -
R.K.Graves -
Terry Osborn -
Tom Jenkins -
wcampion＠aol.com