I already own a M15, so I can't use another. But this sure sounds like a good deal/quick sale! Plus it's very rare to see any M-Boats for sale! http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/boa/1042037932.html George "M" M15 319 San Jose, CA
My original Pacific trailer is dying a slow rustful death, what has the experienced group members done to address replacing trailers? Gilbert -----Original Message-----
Gilbert, I wire brushed mine with an angle grinder and painted it with two coats of Hammerite Rust-Cap. Very labor intensive. I spent about 16 hours grinding and about 8 hours painting. I had already replaced pads, springs, fenders, tires and wheels. This was all in anticipation of trading for an M15 or selling my M17. I needed to be sure the trailer was sound under the rust. Mine turned out Ok. You can always buy new. ken ----- Original Message ----- From: "gilbert landin" <gilbert.landin@gmail.com> To: "'For and about Montgomery Sailboats'" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 12:03 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Trailers
My original Pacific trailer is dying a slow rustful death, what has the experienced group members done to address replacing trailers?
Gilbert
-----Original Message-----
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Gilbert, First question is whether your M17 is a fin keel or Centerboard model? They built both in 1974 and my M17 is a 1974 fin keel #14. The next question is, how much money do you want to spend? Then do you want to replace or repair the trailer? Since the boat weighs less than 2,000 pounds with the cooler full of beer and the tanks full, it wouldn't take a very heavy weight trailer to do the trick. I took the time to run down to a local boat junk yard and found a number of good galvanized trailers for between $100 and $250 that could be adapted to the M17 for another hundred or two. Being right on Lake Livingston, these are all fresh water trailers. I laso checked on new trailers and it looks like $2,000 and up. Grooooooaaaaannn. If you would like for me to go further on the used railer and conversion let me know. I am not that far from you and have a place to work on converting a trailer. Ron M17 #14, Griselda Lake Livingston, Texas
From: gilbert.landin@gmail.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 14:03:08 -0600 Subject: Re: M_Boats: Trailers
My original Pacific trailer is dying a slow rustful death, what has the experienced group members done to address replacing trailers?
Gilbert
-----Original Message-----
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Mboaters: I've purchased a new main for SCRED, my M15. This sail has two reef points so I'm in the process of setting up the boom to for the necessary second line. For attaching the second eye strap, bullet block and clamcleat I'm looking for opinions - aluminum rivet the items in place (as done with the other hardware); or, stainless steel screw the items in place? If riveting in place, what 'grip length' for the rivet? If screwing in place, what length of screw? I've seen in other's posts to use 'never-seize' to avoid problems between stainless fittings and the aluminum. In the local hardware store i've found 'anti-seize' by PERMATEX. Are these the same products? Dave Scobie M15 #288 – SCRED visit Scred's www-site: http://www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred
Dave, You might see if this arrangement will work for you: http://www.dca.uk.com/articles/reefing.htm Permatex COPPER based anti sieze is supposed to be the one to use for aluminum/stainless. I used this on some stainless screws at the masthead and the screws never seem tight. I am always afraid they will come out on their own. I recently removed a lot of hardware from my old mast and boom. The really old stainless screws were essentially welded to aluminum after some 25 years. The ones I put in 10 years ago were starting to corrode but were still removable. It was interesting that the stainless steel bolts in the foredeck cleat were completely welded to the aluminum cleat. If you are doing this combination I would use Permatex on the body of the cleat (aluminum object) but not the threads. I spend about 1/3 of my sailing is real saltwater and 2/3 in brackish water. My boat is garaged when not in use. The first 15 years of the boats existance it was kept in central GA and saw saltwater occasionally. If your exposure to saltwater and outdoors is higher the corrosion will happen much faster. If you are in a pure fresh water environment I would probably not worry about it too much. I am almost exclusively using pop rivets on my new boom and mast fittings. I bought a cheap pop rivet kit a number of years ago and use what fits the fitting. Most non-thick fitting will take a rivet labeled A64 in my kit. The are about 3/8" thick and 1/2" long from the shoulder to the end of the nub. I do think these are longer than they need to be. I use longer ones for some think aluminum cleats and they are 3/8" thick and 3/4" long. The only disadvantage I can see with the pop rivets is that when you remove them there is a piece left rattling around inside the mast or boom. Thanks Doug Kelch M15 #1G "Seas the Day" --- On Sat, 2/28/09, W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote: From: W David Scobie <wdscobie@yahoo.com> Subject: M_Boats: attaching new boom hardware To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Date: Saturday, February 28, 2009, 10:57 PM Mboaters: I've purchased a new main for SCRED, my M15. This sail has two reef points so I'm in the process of setting up the boom to for the necessary second line. For attaching the second eye strap, bullet block and clamcleat I'm looking for opinions - aluminum rivet the items in place (as done with the other hardware); or, stainless steel screw the items in place? If riveting in place, what 'grip length' for the rivet? If screwing in place, what length of screw? I've seen in other's posts to use 'never-seize' to avoid problems between stainless fittings and the aluminum. In the local hardware store i've found 'anti-seize' by PERMATEX. Are these the same products? Dave Scobie M15 #288 – SCRED visit Scred's www-site: http://www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
I live in on coast in NC. Pretty harsh salt environment. When I put on the hardware for reefing I too labored over what was the best solution. We all know aluminum and stainless steel (ss) plus salt water make great 8th grade science projects and I didn't want Seafrog to be one. I tried to find monel pop rivets. And if I do, that will be my first choice. But in the meantime I used SS screws. I can't remember off hand the exact size, but appear to be about 1/4". I was told by a boat yardee to use locktite on the threads. He said that it would help to keep it obviously from coming loose but it also served as a barrier between the aluminum and SS. I've heard of a product from the UK that you can put on screw threads that make a better barriier. Ducolac or Duraloc or something like that. Maybe someone on this board may know the name. On the cheek blocks I made some insulating shields made from milk bottle plastic . Instead of cam cleats I use regular cleats. I had cam cleats on my previous boat and it never failed that everytime I raised the main one of the reefing lines would get jammed accidently. I would make a mental note to make sure all the reefing lines were slack before I raised the main but.... So I decided to use regular cleats. I use the merlin black ones. I run the reefing line through the hole in the base of the cleat with a stopper knot. It makes things pretty simple, uncluttered and doesn't jam. But the important thing is that you are getting in that extra reefing point. Have fun and any solution that gets your sail up and down and is intuitive to you is a great solution. Fair winds (not these %^$#$ March winds!) Joe ----- Original Message ----- From: "W David Scobie" <wdscobie@yahoo.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 10:57 PM Subject: M_Boats: attaching new boom hardware
Mboaters:
I've purchased a new main for SCRED, my M15. This sail has two reef points so I'm in the process of setting up the boom to for the necessary second line.
For attaching the second eye strap, bullet block and clamcleat I'm looking for opinions -
aluminum rivet the items in place (as done with the other hardware); or, stainless steel screw the items in place?
If riveting in place, what 'grip length' for the rivet?
If screwing in place, what length of screw?
I've seen in other's posts to use 'never-seize' to avoid problems between stainless fittings and the aluminum. In the local hardware store i've found 'anti-seize' by PERMATEX. Are these the same products?
Dave Scobie M15 #288 – SCRED visit Scred's www-site: http://www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Hi Dave; Before installing the reefing hardware on Spirit I was concerned that #10-24 machine screws wouldn't have enough bite in the thin walls of the Dwyer DM-2 boom and thought rivets might be better. I checked with Dwyer, who said that either fastener will hold. I used machine screws with 3M Threadlocker (appears to be the equivalent of LocTite blue). It claims to prevent corrosion - only time will tell. Admittedly, I am more concerned about fasteners working their way loose then with them becoming frozen up by galvanic corrosion. I plan on taking one out in a few years to see how it's doing. Jim Poulakis M17 "Spirit" On Feb 28, 2009, at 7:57 PM, W David Scobie wrote:
Mboaters:
I've purchased a new main for SCRED, my M15. This sail has two reef points so I'm in the process of setting up the boom to for the necessary second line.
For attaching the second eye strap, bullet block and clamcleat I'm looking for opinions -
aluminum rivet the items in place (as done with the other hardware); or, stainless steel screw the items in place?
If riveting in place, what 'grip length' for the rivet?
If screwing in place, what length of screw?
I've seen in other's posts to use 'never-seize' to avoid problems between stainless fittings and the aluminum. In the local hardware store i've found 'anti-seize' by PERMATEX. Are these the same products?
Dave Scobie M15 #288 – SCRED visit Scred's www-site: http://www.freewebs.com/m15-named-scred
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
Hey Ronnie, going over the list messages I must have missed your reply, I am in Corpus and have come across a couple of candidates, i appreciate the offer and I will keep it in mind in case the trailers dont come thru, I am going to show the trailer to a couple of shops and see what they think. Thanks Gilbert On Thu, Feb 26, 2009 at 5:01 PM, Ronnie Keeler <ronkeeler@hotmail.com>wrote:
Gilbert,
First question is whether your M17 is a fin keel or Centerboard model? They built both in 1974 and my M17 is a 1974 fin keel #14. The next question is, how much money do you want to spend? Then do you want to replace or repair the trailer?
Since the boat weighs less than 2,000 pounds with the cooler full of beer and the tanks full, it wouldn't take a very heavy weight trailer to do the trick. I took the time to run down to a local boat junk yard and found a number of good galvanized trailers for between $100 and $250 that could be adapted to the M17 for another hundred or two. Being right on Lake Livingston, these are all fresh water trailers.
I laso checked on new trailers and it looks like $2,000 and up. Grooooooaaaaannn.
If you would like for me to go further on the used railer and conversion let me know. I am not that far from you and have a place to work on converting a trailer.
Ron
M17 #14, Griselda
Lake Livingston, Texas
From: gilbert.landin@gmail.com To: montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 14:03:08 -0600 Subject: Re: M_Boats: Trailers
My original Pacific trailer is dying a slow rustful death, what has the experienced group members done to address replacing trailers?
Gilbert
-----Original Message-----
_______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
Remember, there is no privacy on the Internet!
_________________________________________________________________ Windows Live™: Discover 10 secrets about the new Windows Live.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!55... _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats
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-- Gilbert Landin MindGames Computer Services Inc. 361-225-0846 cell 774-7106
participants (9)
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Doug Kelch -
George Morrison -
gilbert landin -
Gilbert Landin
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James Poulakis -
Joe Murphy -
Ken Wheeler -
Ronnie Keeler -
W David Scobie