Brian, No, I would not 'prime' with linseed or other oils prior to applying Cetol. In fact, I wipe the teak with Acetone or Xylene after cleaning to make sure there are not residual oils on the surface. Cetol does not adhere well to oily surfaces. Some have experimented with penetrating epoxy as a sealer layer beneath the Cetol, but I am generally against this procedure, as I like to leave the option open for future coatings other than Cetol (a future owner, for example). Also, in many years of Cetol use, I see no need for any kind of substrate treatment. As for thinning Cetol, the manufacturer says rather adamantly not to do so. That said, I have talked to some professional finishers that have thinned up to 20% with Xylene or Interlux 216 or 333 thinners. I am very careful to pour out only what I can use within 10-15 minutes. I find that beyond that, the solvents evaporate away, and the brush starts to stick/drag. By following this procedure, I have not found a need to thin. I guess my advise would be to tear away the skin and try what you have (unthinned) on a piece of scrap wood. If it lays down/feathers well, and dries hard, you can probably get away with using it. On the other hand, it might be worth starting with a new quart (less than $30.00), and be on the safe side. Good luck! Scott In a message dated 6/7/05 2:58:47 PM, montgomery_boats-request@mailman.xmission.com writes:

Scott:

Harvey gave me a half-can of Cetol when he sold me Stargazer, and I had a question or two about it...

I usually like to "prime" teak with a light coat of thinned Linseed oil. It's usually compatible with traditional varnishes... but what about Cetol?

And since this is an old, skinned-over can, what is a good solvent thinner for Cetol?

Thanks BG