Give the folks at ETrailer.com a call.  I’ve used them for parts and advice for years.  Great customer service. Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone On Thursday, May 21, 2020, 12:08 AM, Jon Barber <brbrbarber@gmail.com> wrote: I am trying to figure out what brakes are right for my Pacific galvanized trailer. I experienced some scary downhill moments returning to the valley from a high Sierra lake. I thought someone was burning up their brakes, it turned out to be me! After a cooling off period we continued in low gear and kept the speed low. I'd like to return to the mountain lakes with confidence while on the road. Can anyone offer any enlightenment in this subject? I'm dealing with a guy who means well but doesn't know boat trailers. I wanted disc brakes because of fewer moving parts and the fact that the entire brake is accessable for washing after launch and retrieval.He sold me a drum brake surge system but when I started to install I realized the cast iron rotors would not fare well in salt water. Now we're trying to source galvanized drum/hubs. To install a disc system requires replacing the axle as well. I'm not that worried about the cost, within reason and will likely install new springs, too. Any help would be appreciated. I tow with a late model 6 cylinder Tacoma. Thanks, Jon Barber Monty17 Ol'44

Hi Jon, Cast iron brake drums are fine in salt water because they are so thick- it would take decades to rust through the drums. Get a true grade drum brake assembly (everything but the drum), and install a freshwater flush system where you hook hoses up and it fills the inside of the drum with fresh water after each launch. For the vehicle, I recommend getting a high boiling point brake fluid, and changing it annually, as the boiling point will drop by as much as 75F per year as it absorbs water. I use "ATE TYP 200 Racing Quality DOT 4" which has a 536F boiling point when new/dry. I also recommend high temp ceramic brake pads. They could be a bit squeakier and dustier, but coupled with high temp brake fluid, they will be almost impossible to overheat. Lastly, go down a grade at approximately the same speed and low gear you would climb it in- don't go fast! Using these techniques, I never had any brake issues towing a brakeless M15 to very high altitude locations with a tiny 4 cylinder VW Golf. I also used to tow a Catalina 22 with a Volvo station wagon to high altitude California lakes in the same way without issues. Sincerely, Tyler '81 M15 #157 Defiant ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jon Barber" <brbrbarber@gmail.com> To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2020 9:05:43 PM Subject: M_Boats: Trailer brakes I am trying to figure out what brakes are right for my Pacific galvanized trailer. I experienced some scary downhill moments returning to the valley from a high Sierra lake. I thought someone was burning up their brakes, it turned out to be me! After a cooling off period we continued in low gear and kept the speed low. I'd like to return to the mountain lakes with confidence while on the road. Can anyone offer any enlightenment in this subject? I'm dealing with a guy who means well but doesn't know boat trailers. I wanted disc brakes because of fewer moving parts and the fact that the entire brake is accessable for washing after launch and retrieval.He sold me a drum brake surge system but when I started to install I realized the cast iron rotors would not fare well in salt water. Now we're trying to source galvanized drum/hubs. To install a disc system requires replacing the axle as well. I'm not that worried about the cost, within reason and will likely install new springs, too. Any help would be appreciated. I tow with a late model 6 cylinder Tacoma. Thanks, Jon Barber Monty17 Ol'44