Seven years ago I failed to release the pendant before trailering and found it parted when I got home. It had rubbed on the rough edge of the hole in the top of the case. I had been warned about this happening. I'm sure Bob Eeg replaced the pendant when he installed the new keel, just before i got the boat in 2016. The pendant never sees the light of day so I think it should last a long time. Wear is clearly a problem. I have access to a hoist. If I'm ready it should not take long to swap them out. Someone suggested a dyneema replacement. I was going to have West Marine splice a tight eye with a thimble in the end. A shackle was between the board and the pendant. There was no thimble on the old eye splice. I think that's why it failed. How do others connect the board to the pendant? I want to get it right this time.
Only bits I'll add are - The line is 5/16" with the last, board side, has 4" or so.of the core removed to make a small bowline (to big knot will/can jam in the trunk). The cast iron board require removal of the stop pin. If correctly installed pin removed port to starboard and put in starboard to port. Boats with M15 boards (aka all M17s without cast iron boards) have no stop pin. :: Dave Scobie :: M6'8" #650 :: Baba 30 #233 DEJA VU :: former owner SV SWALLOW - sv-swallow.com :: former owner M17 #375 SWEET PEA - m17-375.com :: former owner M15 #288 SCRED - m15namedscred.wordpress.com On Tue, May 30, 2023, 11:10 Mark Dvorscak <mdvorscak56@gmail.com> wrote:
On Jerry’s boats at least, I believe the line was double braid with the core removed in the end so a nice tight bowline could be tied to the shackle on the board. Adding a thimble and splicing may or may not be an improvement on that. I’m interested to see what Mr Scobie and others, with more experience and knowledge than I, have to add to this discussion.
Mark Dvorscak
M23
M15
M10
Former M17
Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows
*From: *Jon Barber <brbrbarber@gmail.com> *Sent: *Tuesday, May 30, 2023 10:06 AM *To: *montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com *Subject: *M_Boats: Pendant Replacement
Seven years ago I failed to release the pendant before trailering and found
it parted when I got home. It had rubbed on the rough edge of the hole in
the top of the case. I had been warned about this happening.
I'm sure Bob Eeg replaced the pendant when he installed the new keel, just
before i got the boat in 2016. The pendant never sees the light of day so I
think it should last a long time. Wear is clearly a problem.
I have access to a hoist. If I'm ready it should not take long to swap
them out.
Someone suggested a dyneema replacement. I was going to have West Marine
splice a tight eye with a thimble in the end. A shackle was between the
board and the pendant. There was no thimble on the old eye splice. I think
that's why it failed. How do others connect the board to the pendant? I
want to get it right this time.
On 5/30/23 16:47, Dave Scobie wrote: ...
The cast iron board require removal of the stop pin. If correctly installed pin removed port to starboard and put in starboard to port.
And, depending on who made your boat when and/or what's been changed by prior owners..."pin" situation might be different... One random example, my M17 #38 (1974) came to me with a stainless bolt with locknut for stop "pin," not a pin that is driven thru. The stop-pin bolt it came with had recessed & puttied-over head on starboard side, nut on port. I had to do some repairs in that area, especially on the starboard side. Looked like someone had dropped the board too hard and the pin had broken thru the bottom of keel on the starboard side at some point in past. Then they did a lame joke of a "repair" with bondo and caulk and the like. I cut away, ground out, cleaned up, etc. and rebuilt the starboard side of that area with some glass and thickened resin etc. and then redrilled and put in a new bolt, with fuel hose "padding" over the center portion as has been posted here various times in past. Likewise for my CB pivot - recessed bolt/nut, not driven-thru pin. It looks like it must be OEM, there is no sign of reworking/repair of the keel around the CB pivot, unless it was done very well by a skilled professional and thus invisible. cheers, John -- John Schinnerer - M.A., Whole Systems Design -------------------------------------------- - Eco-Living - Whole Systems Design Services People - Place - Learning - Integration john@eco-living.net - 510.982.1334 http://eco-living.net http://sociocracyconsulting.com
participants (4)
-
Dave Scobie -
John Schinnerer -
Jon Barber -
Mark Dvorscak