Robbin, I slide the jibsheet cars all the way forward on their tracks and lash the blocks to them with a short lanyard, just to keep them from sliding. Finding the intermediate metal conduit (IMC) isn't quite as easy as they make it sound. Home hardware outlets don't carry it. You have to get it from an electrical supply store that supplies electricians, and the only place I could find that could cut and thread it was a local equipment rental store. But it sure was worth the effort. Good luck Rick On Monday, July 7, 2014, Robbin Roddewig <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net> wrote:
Hi Rick thanks for the response. I like the A frame shown at EZ mast. Do you attach the blocks to your toe rail?
Thanks Robbin
On 7/6/2014 5:10 PM, Rick Davies wrote:
Robbin,
Having recently transitioned into the senior citizen category I put together an A-frame to raise and lower my M17 mast using hardware purchased from ezmastlift.com. Their website shows the details. It's fairly inexpensive, easy to put together and takes all the stress out of mast handling. I had the mast up and down three times one recent afternoon without breaking a sweat.
The seller designed the hardware himself to raise a 200 lb wooden mast, so it should handle the M23 easily.
Good luck,
Rick M17 #633 Lynne L
On Sunday, July 6, 2014, stevetrapp <stevetrapp@q.com> wrote:
Robbin,
Ask yourself this question, are you yet a senior citizen? I raised and lowered my M- 15 mast myself before I graduated to becoming a senior citizen, but having recently determined that I no longer have the strength, agility, coordination, or stamina, so now I pay the guys at a nearby marine service shop to do the job. Their fee is much lower than the price of the strain and stress if I were to continue to attempt to do it myself. I assume your mast on your M-23 is heavier and more complicated than mine. However, you do need to scout the travel path between the shop and the lanuch ramp to be sure you will have adequate overhead clearance from power line, low tree branches, etc. I know I need a minimum of 26 feet of overhead clearance with my M-15 on the trailer with the mast stepped, and I assume your minimum overhead clearance will be 35 or 40 feet. Good luck, Steve M-15 # 335
----- Original Message ----- From: "Robbin Roddewig" <robbin.roddewig@verizon.net <javascript:;>> To: <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com <javascript:;>> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2014 8:40 AM Subject: M_Boats: M-23 mast raising advice.
Hi M_boaters
I have a reason for lowering the mast I just put up. Okay, okay, I let the halyard for the roller fuller half way up the mast hanging in a rather stupid move of taking a short cut on tying a knot. I blame
myself...
I have reconstituted the mast raising system that came with the boat. And am looking at having the spar shop help me lower the mast on Wednesday to retrieve the halyard. I would like any advice that can be passed along by those that have used the system on the M-23 or others.
My understanding is the custom steel wire with clips ties into the plates on the upper shrouds and somehow tie into the end of the boom. The main sheet block and tackle is used to lower the mast after disconnecting the back stay. I have a roller furler on the front and plan to have a helper disconnect this from the bow and use the jib halyard as the fore stay. Possibly use a snatch block to be able to control the jib halyard as the mast goes up to keep it under control as it gets vertical. The furler seems like is would need to be moved out of the way as the mast comes down to the bow pulpit. I have a wood box that will fit over the pulpit to rest the mast on. And elevate the mast a bit. I believe that the main sheet will need to be replaced with about 60' of line? The 4:1 block and tackle of the main sheet works okay? The main hatch moved forward? Any other hints?
Thanks Robbin