I run a single light line from the stern cleat on one side, take three wraps around the tiller near the front, and make it fast to the stern cleat on the other side. Pulling the wraps tight to the front of the tiller locks it securely, moving them aft loosens it. Sliding them all the way aft gives the tiller free play. You can also move the wraps along the line, for example to lock the tiller to leeward when hove to. It's not an elegant solution, but it's worked for me for years. No holes, no screws, no sweat. Rick M17 #633 Lynne L On Wed, Jul 25, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Tom Smith <openboatt@gmail.com> wrote:
I loath cutting holes in my boat. The forespar approach is bogus to me for that reason (plus the complicated line locking apparatus is way overkill) in my opinion.
I use a length of line stretched between two bungee loops attached to the aft horn cleats captured by a small jam cleat screwed to the underside of the tiller. I've use this simple solution on three M boats over a dozen years. It's effective through the whole swing of the tiller (if it's tight enough...).
It ain't perfect, but jeez it's close... t
On Wed, Jul 25, 2012 at 7:35 PM, Tim Erwin <sailtim@yahoo.com> wrote:
I am going to address the issue of being able to temporarily lock the tiller for whatever reason. I like the forespar lock box that is used with a forespar tiller extender. One negative right off is that I'm going to have to cut a sizable hole in my beautiful boat. I do like that system however. Then it seems like a lot of you have hardware on the tiller with a line running through it. Friction on the line holds the tiller in place. I would appreciate some feedback. Thanks, Tim Erwin. M15 dark star. # 641
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