Just a quick note, Cetol light still has that orange tinge to it but Cetol Natural Teak is almost water clear and much more popular with those replacing varnish with an easier to use product. paintboy --- On Tue, 10/18/11, Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> wrote: From: Joe Murphy <seagray@embarqmail.com> Subject: Re: M_Boats: Refurbish the wood To: "For and about Montgomery Sailboats" <montgomery_boats@mailman.xmission.com> Date: Tuesday, October 18, 2011, 11:36 AM Hi Ted, I did all my brightwork in Bristol Finish. I just finished the third season and will have to do some touch up. The Bristol Finish wears like iron and lasts three times longer than varnish. I did not remove the toe rail. I taped everthing off and put down 9 layers. Now that it is starting to show its age, I'll use a heat gun and peel it the worst of it off and feather in new coats. But having said all this, a friend of mine went through the entire stripping process and used the Cetol Light. It looked as good as varnish and didn't have that Cetol orange tinge to it. He said compared to Bristol Finish it was infinitely easier to apply. I might just wait another season and let mother nature do the stripping and go with the Cetol. Joe SeaFrog M17 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bill Wickett To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 8:07 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Refurbish the wood Hi Ted, We refinished the teak on our '03 M17 last winter. Previous owner had used Cetol, so that is what we stayed with. Most was in fairly "rustic/flaky" condition, so we sanded all down to bare wood. In our case I drilled out the wood plugs on the hatch guides to remove the 4 pieces. I unbolted the roof top grab rails from the inside (*LOVE all those exposed fasteners!). *Those were sanded and recoated over the winter. After rebedding & refastening the trim, new teak plugs were expoxied in to the hatch trim screw holes, after reboring them to the next size up. Care has to be taken when leveling the plugs. You end up sanding the finish put on earlier. Then coat the plugs after to match the already coated trim. Ended up with a couple of extra complete coats on the hatch trim parts. Hmmm. I wouldn't do that again. I would refinish the hatch guides in place, after carefully masking. Grab rails are easier to take off and replace and easier to sand underneath when off. The toe rail was easy to refinish in place. I would not recommend taking off the toe rail, as you will be unbolting the hull/deck joint AND have to replug all the screw holes. Refinish it all in place. We found out it is not that hard. Masked inside and out, sanded and started recoating. Got 2 coats on then went sailing. Keep a cloth with mineral spirits close by to catch any stray drips. Next weekend we anchored out. Weather was good and calm. Remasked and recoated, on the boat. Got 2 more coats on by noon. Did another coat another time on the trailer. The cheap foam brushes, 1 1/4" wide worked very well on the toe rail with Cetol. Disposed of them after each 2 coat session. Good luck. Bill Wickett Makin' Time M17 On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 7:34 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> wrote: > Did you take the toe rail off or leave it on the boat? I am debating what > to do. > > Thanks, > ted > On Oct 17, 2011, at 12:59 PM, Tom Smith wrote: > > > Having refinished what's felt like several miles of M-boat toe rails > > and other assorted wood pieces, I recommend the use of a precision > > scraper for removing the old finish. I've used a bahco triangle > > scraper ( > http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=3494&fam... > ) > > with very good results. t > > > > On Sun, Oct 16, 2011 at 4:44 PM, Ted Weidenbach <weid0069@umn.edu> > wrote: > >> Hi everyone, > >> > >> It is October and sailing season has pretty much come to an end in > Minnesota. I am looking to refurbish the wood on the 1981 monty 15 that I > bought last winter. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on what worked > well for them at any point in the process. From taking off the wood (which > I am doing now) to sanding to making it look good, any help would be > appreciated. > >> > >> Also the toe rail is wood and I want to take that off but I still need > to transfer it to storage. Does the toe rail keep the top of the boat and > the bottom of the boat attached? It looks like that is what is keeping it > together and if I took it off I wouldn't want to be driving down the highway > with it. Any thoughts? > >> > >> Thanks, > >> Ted > >> _______________________________________________ > >> http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >> > >> When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet! > >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > > When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet! > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet! > _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet! _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats When posting, remember that there is no privacy on the Internet!