I have it. It is available free online. It is just the logistics of never having done it. They tell you to "wet out" the holes first, which means squirt in the 105/205 epoxy without additives, and then later to fill with 105/205 and some additive such as 405 colloidal silica. My question is not about that process exactly, but the timing. I'm sure it will make more sense when I actually do it. The point is I don't want to fill the holes up to the top without leaving room for the second application with the thicker stuff. Daniel On 2/22/2011 11:37 AM, Conbert Benneck wrote:
On 22-Feb-11 12:11 PM, Daniel Rich wrote:
Hi Daniel,
From your questions I assume that you don't have a WEST Repair Manual. WEST will gladly send you their Epoxy repair manual for free to help you do good work.
It's an absolute necessity that then answers all your questions of "How do I..."
Get one today!
Then enjoy doing the work.
Connie
So, my plan, is to take off the hardware and inspect the holes. Then I will use the bent nail drill bit technique to remove some core as needed, and vacuum out. Then I will tape the holes from behind with duct tape, and inject using a syringe West Systems 105 epoxy with hardener and fill the holes. I understand that I have to squirt it in a few times, as the balsa absorbs quite a bit. Any idea of the timing of that? Do I squirt, wait a few minutes and squirt again? Or do I squirt, wait a few hours and mix a new batch? Once done, I'm supposed to then mix a fresh batch with the colloidal silica as paste and inject for a final fill. Does this seem like a good plan?
Then, when cured in a day or two I will redrill the holes, and use 3M 4200 to bed the fittings.
Still just a little confused about the timing of the epoxy.
Daniel
On 2/21/2011 4:36 PM, Ken Wheeler wrote:
Daniel, I've do the same thing on both my M boats. So feel free to call if you get stuck. Ken (The Windsor one)
-----Original Message----- From: montgomery_boats-bounces+wesi=comcast.net@mailman.xmission.com [mailto:montgomery_boats-bounces+wesi=comcast.net@mailman.xmission.com] On Behalf Of Daniel Rich Sent: Monday, February 21, 2011 2:55 PM To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Subject: Re: M_Boats: Rebedding deck hardware
I'll see what it looks like when I get the stuff off. It may be very easy to do just that.
Daniel On Feb 21, 2011, at 1:33 PM, Joe Murphy wrote:
Not sure what you meant by "won't epoxy the ones that aren't leaking." Does that mean you are only going to drill out; epoxy fill; and, redrill just the holes that had leaks?? I'd do all 18. ----- Original Message ----- From: Daniel Rich To: For and about Montgomery Sailboats Sent: Monday, February 21, 2011 4:05 PM Subject: Re: M_Boats: Rebedding deck hardware
On my way to west marine now. Looks like 18 bolts have got to be done. One life line rail, bow pulpit, and 1 cleat. Only 3 leaks, but gotta pull those parts. Won't epoxy the ones that aren't leaking.
Daniel
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 21, 2011, at 12:47 PM, W David Scobie<wdscobie@yahoo.com> wrote:
daniel:
below are my person 'definitions and uses' with the products discussed -
5200 - below waterline applications. use for fittings you will _never_ (essentially) remove. 5200 is excellent and 'permenant' adhesive and sealant. 4200 - above waterline applications. a challenge to remove but can be done (carefully so as not to damage the surface ... ie the gelcoat) 4200 is an a sealant and a good adhesive. Life Calk - above waterline applications. not difficult to remove but you must re-bed your hardware more often than with 4200. life calk is a sealant and a weak adhesive.
:: Dave Scobie :: M17 #375 - SWEET PEA - www.m17-375.webs.com :: Sage Marine - www.sagemarine.us
--- On Mon, 2/21/11, Daniel Rich<danielgrich@gmail.com> wrote: Why not 4200? 5200 seems to weak.
Daniel
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