November 2004 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

Motoring a Monty 15' with keel up.
by nbundek 28 Nov '04

28 Nov '04

If the sails are furled, would it be safe to motor with the keel up for better performance. I was thinking about fairly calm days on the ocean. Since I'm so new to sailing, I don't have a clue. Norm

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Re: M_Boats: dc vs ac drive
by chbenneck＠juno.com 28 Nov '04

28 Nov '04

Hi MC, AC may be superior for use in a trolling motor, but, ................ Batteries are only DC! ...........do you want to drive around trailing a shore power umbilical cord so you have AC on board? The next possibility is to run a small Honda generator set that produces AC power. Then you have AC for the trolling motor, but can you stand the noise? All this does is add complexity and cost: generator set; fuel for the generator; added weight............ Connie

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dc vs ac drive
by MC Carpenter 28 Nov '04

28 Nov '04

It would seem to me that a A/C drive would be better than a DC drive trolling motor, because it has no brushes yet is easy to speed control, Can be sealed so never need to open to the weather and salt for the life of bearings. The DC brush-less design seem to be far too expensive to use. But can not find a A/C drive trolling motor, is it a manufacturing reason yet to be completed, an efficiency problem or some thing to do with A/C drive in salt water.

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Re: M_Boats: San Juans / Gulf Islands Trip
by Larry E Yake 27 Nov '04

27 Nov '04

OK, Gary. Great! You're on the list. Larry On Sat, 27 Nov 2004 10:38:48 -0800 Gary M. Hyde <gmhyde1(a)mac.com> writes: > Larry: > Please put me on your list to go on the San Juan trip. > Thanks. > --Gary Hyde > N24 'Sailabration' > M15 #235 'Vanilla' > > > On Nov 23, 2004, at 8:41 PM, Larry E Yake wrote: > > > OK, here's the list of those who have signed up so far to be on > the > > San > > Juan trip e-mail list. If I've missed your name somehow, or you > want > > to > > be added to the list let me know. Being on the list gives you a > say in > > the planning of dates, destinations, etc., so be sure to get > signed up > > if > > you've got any special places you want to see or certain dates to > > > avoid. > > I'll try to set things up to work best for the whole group. > > > > Randy Graves M15 > > Mark and Roberta Dvorscak M23 > > Fred and Lilly Shelley M23 > > Tom Wilkinson M17 > > Bill Lamica M17 > > Larry Yake M17 > > > > _______________________________________________ > > > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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San Juans / Gulf Islands Trip
by Larry E Yake 27 Nov '04

27 Nov '04

OK, here's the list of those who have signed up so far to be on the San Juan trip e-mail list. If I've missed your name somehow, or you want to be added to the list let me know. Being on the list gives you a say in the planning of dates, destinations, etc., so be sure to get signed up if you've got any special places you want to see or certain dates to avoid. I'll try to set things up to work best for the whole group. Randy Graves M15 Mark and Roberta Dvorscak M23 Fred and Lilly Shelley M23 Tom Wilkinson M17 Bill Lamica M17 Larry Yake M17

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Re: M_Boats: Hello from new-old M17 owner
by Harvey G Wilson 26 Nov '04

26 Nov '04

Hi Howard.. Not to forget a slightly younger sister ship, Stargazer #294, is also on the list<GG> Harvey/ Ga M-17 Stargazer #294

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Re: M_Boats: Replacing an M15 Mast
by chbenneck＠juno.com 26 Nov '04

26 Nov '04

Hi Clint, When I sent you dimensions and mast data, I was of the opinion that you had a bent mast and could therefore see where things fitted per my dimensions and all you needed were exact locations. Totally loosing a mast presents another problem! So, let me add a lot more detail to my original dimensions so that you know what to buy; where it goes; and why.............. The down haul jam cleat @ 17" and the S/S eye on the port side @ 19" from mast bottom.: A short length of 1/4" Dacron line has one end tied to the S/S eye. The line goes through the eye at the bottom of the boom gooseneck fitting and back down to the down haul jam cleat. (jam cleat has to prevent boom form riding up - correct orientation of the teeth!) The purpose of this line is to keep the boom from sliding upwards as you tighten the main halyard, and after the main is up, you can tighten the down haul to slightly change and improve sail shape. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ The 1/4" hole through the middle of the mast @ 172.5" is for the 1/4" diameter S/S hex headed bolt that holds the forestay and the shrouds in place. The forestay exits through the hole on the forward side of the mast @ 168.5" to 169.5" (3/8" wide). When you cut this hole use a scraper or a file to round off the inside edges and the outside edges of the hole. The S/S bolt should be held in place with an elastic stop nut (change the nut every time you take it apart otherwise it might not hold as well on the second use). The assembly should be: starting with the S/S bolt: put on a S/S washer; next put on a plastic washer; then the shroud eye; and another plastic washer. At this point you can put the bolt partially into the hole in the mast. Now comes the juggling act as you hold the eye of the forestay in the slot while you try and capture it with the end of the S/S bolt. Several tries later, after you have succeeded; duplicate what you had on the first shroud side: a plastic washer next to the mast; the shroud eye; a plastic washer; and finally a S/S washer and the elastic stop nut. ~~~~~~~~~~ The S/S eye @ 166" from the bottom of the mast is for the jib halyard block. My assembly had a block with a fixed becket on the block. The S/S eye went through this becket and was then riveted to the mast at that location. When I rebuilt my mast I got a new block with a becket that would swivel, and that had a pin through the becket so that I could easily remove the block without drilling out the rivets of the eye. ~~~~~~~~~~ Fairlead @ 42" from bottom of mast. This is a S/S eye riveted to the side of the mast and serves to lead the main halyard to the 3 1/2" cleat. Rick Langer suggested using a larger cleat, but I have no problems with this size cleat, so don't know why he would prefer larger ones (using larger diameter line than I do, perhaps?) ~~~~~~~~~~~ A boom stop is needed @ 20" from the bottom of the mast. Without this boom stop, if you put the boom in the mast slot, it will fall to the deck........... The boom stop keeps it in place. I just drilled a hole in the side of the mast slot and put in a pop rivet. If you want to get fancier, drill an appropriate size hole through both sides of the sail track slot at the 20" height and put a S/S cotter pin through both holes. Cut off the ends of the cotter pin so that they don't project more than about 1/4" and also carefully round the ends of the cotter pin before putting it in place and spreading the ends. Spread the ends at about 15 degrees total: this keeps the cotter pin in place but allows you to easily remove it when you want to - and eliminates sharp edges that can cut you if you aren't careful. ~~~~~~~~~~~~ Masthead fitting: You may want to take a rat tailed file and ease the bottom corners of the casting underneath the sheaves so that the halyard doesn't rub on the edge of the fitting but leads clean. Also make sure that the pathway of the halyard is clean and has smooth edges. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My original masthead fitting had pins through the sheaves with a split ring holding them in place. I built a small flat piece of stainless with two holes - one to fit the pin size of the sheave, the other end to accept the becket of a small block. I put this on the aft sheave pin and now used this block as a topping lift for the boom. An 1/8" Dacron line runs from the end of the boom, up to the masthead; through the small block, and back down to a cleat on the side of the mast. A very handy item to have. When you drop the main the boom stays horizontal instead of crashing into the cockpit. Then I can furl the main; put on the sail stops, and the sail cover. If you have any question as you start to rebuild your mast, .............yell, and I'll see if I can answer them! Connie

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Over 4000
by BILLAMICASR＠aol.com 25 Nov '04

25 Nov '04

Hi All, Important news flash... The MSOG Photo Site has just gone over 4000 hits. And think... It's only been about a month Search Google For Montgomery sailboats on AOL and you'll find MSOG.org then Montgomeryboats.com, and coming in third is Photo Site! I'm thankful for the oporitunity to show off our sailboats. Now... Email me about your boat. At least let's have a picture of you and your boat. Okay, if you're bashful... just the boat. Ask Santa for a digital camera for Christmas (I know one of you are doing just that) Have a neighbor take some photo's with his digital Thanks again for helping make Photo Site work. Bill www.MSOG.funtigo.com Ps. In about a week I'll have PICS of one fine 2005 M-15. The new owners, the Kerr's, are on page three of MSOG Boats & Owners on the Photo Site.

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Hello from new-old M17 owner
by Max Dawson 24 Nov '04

24 Nov '04

Hello one and all! My name is Max, and I bought an M17 (hull#277) last year site unseen from someone in Texas (I live in Knoxville, TN). I was very happy to discover that the claims written on the MSOG site regarding this boat's sailing ability are true. I sailed on lakes Sabine and Conroe during my visit a few weeks ago, and was pleasantly surprised on both light and heavy wind capability. I purused the archives for some issues that I am experiencing, and so far have not come across answers, so if I am not being too much a bother I will ask them here. 1 - The boat is taking on a little water (around 3-5 gal. on an overnighter), which is collecting under the vee berth area. The bow eye is quite loose, but it appears to be around 12 inches up from the water line. I thought it might have something to do with the scupper lines (they drain very slowly), but if this is the case I would think the cabin sole proper would be wet. Any ideas? 2 - The transom is pushed in at the top some, and appears to be hollow - is this correct? I am wondering about the best way to repair it. It is quite sailable now, but I am concerned, since the top (at the separated area) also has one of the gudgeons. I want to make sure the rudder is sufficiently supported. I had sent a similar message on 11/19, but used another email address - and the message was rejected on the list. Hope this one goes through OK. Any personal emails may be sent to mdawson at utk.edu Thanks max

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good read
by htmills＠bright.net 23 Nov '04

23 Nov '04

I found this a very interesting read. It is from an old Cruising World, by the former editor. To reduce the eyestrain, I saved the .jpg images to my computer, then viewed it with the picture viewer so that I could zoom in a little closer. Enjoy: http://www.marineryachts.com/articles/laststraw.htm Tod

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