February 2003 - montgomery_boats - mailman.xmission.com

M17 line drawings
by wayne yeargain 16 Jan '04

16 Jan '04

Jerry If you are still intrested I'd like to try to intregate your cad drawings with my system and complete any areas necessary to get a complete plan & elevation drawings. My boat is a '76 M17 and I can take measurements for items that are not on your drawings. Let me know what you think Contact me off line at saltydog(a)ev1.net Wayne

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Dulcibella arrived in good shape
by David Fann 15 Mar '03

15 Mar '03

The truck carrying Dulcibella, my shiny new Montgomery 17, reached Gainesville (FL) late this afternoon. Boat and trailer are in excellent condition. We started getting compliments even as the unloading proceeded in a mall parking lot. At home, we found she is just a hair too large for the garage. On to Plan B for storage... Now for some boat rigging. The mast/boom package was nicely bubble wrapped, so tomorrow will be like an early Christmas, with presents to open. Thanks, Montgomery Boats! David Fann M17 Dulcibella

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RE: M_Boats: Vibration
by Morris, Giles 02 Mar '03

02 Mar '03

Just thinking about this, and I'm sure you got there before me... The axis that the laser rotates in will have to be perpendicular to the plane of the laser and the waterline, otherwise the pointer will follow a curved path. Did I make that obscure enough? Giles Morris Arlington VA Montgomery 15 "Umiaq" Vancouver 25 "Dolphin" Miscellaneous small craft -----Original Message----- From: chbenneck(a)juno.com [mailto:chbenneck@juno.com] Sent: Friday, February 21, 2003 2:45 PM To: montgomery_boats(a)mailman.xmission.com Subject: Re: M_Boats: Vibration Sybil, Great idea for marking the "real" water line of the boat. But now I've got my new toy and will have to play with it before I can try your idea. Thanks for the idea. Connie _______________________________________________ http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats

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Re: M_Boats: Yet Another Penetrol Question
by Larry Yake 01 Mar '03

01 Mar '03

Craig, I haven't taken any special precautions around the decals. Doesn't seem to have affected them. Larry On Thu, 27 Feb 2003 21:55:55 -0500 "Honshells" <chonshell(a)ia4u.net> writes: > > Penetrol users: > > When using Penetrol on your Monty's shear-stripe, how do you work > around the self-adhesive (state > registration) lettering on your bow? I would guess Penetrol would > soften and loosen any "stickers" . . . You > don't replace your lettering each season, do you? > > > > > _______________________________________________ > http://mailman.xmission.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/montgomery_boats > >

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Yet Another Penetrol Question
by Honshells 28 Feb '03

28 Feb '03

Penetrol users: When using Penetrol on your Monty's shear-stripe, how do you work around the self-adhesive (state registration) lettering on your bow? I would guess Penetrol would soften and loosen any "stickers" . . . You don't replace your lettering each season, do you?

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Whisker Pole & VHF Radio Input Needed
by Randy Graves 26 Feb '03

26 Feb '03

M-Sailers, Am looking to purchase a whisker pole and replacment VHF radio for our M-15, and would appreciate input. For a VHF radio I like the Icom IC-M45 fixed unit. Have gone back and forth between a handheld and fixed unit. Since our M-15 has an electrical system and masthead antenna, I was thinking the fixed unit with upto 25 watts of transmitting power would have an advantage. Any ideas? Other makes & models? Forespare makes a 1" diameter, 4-8 ft adjustable whisker pole that looks like a good match for an M-15. You can get it with either clamps on both ends or a clamp on one end and a "spike" on the other end. In the past, both poles I used on other boats had the clamps at both ends. Any advantage/disadvantage of the clamp over the spike on the outbound end of the pole? Where do you store a whisker pole on an M-15? Other ideas? Thanks for all the good reading and help, Randy Graves M-15 #407 Post Falls, ID

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Vibration
by Harvey Wilson 26 Feb '03

26 Feb '03

Hi Craig.. >>No one suggested ways to try to dampen outboard vibration: Does that mean no one suffers enough vibration to bother?<< How bad is the vibration ?? My Seagulls are single cylinder, and don't vibrate more then other 1 lungers. Do you know if there are other motors of your brand that vibrate less?? Or are you comparing it to a 2 cylinder ?? I've only had 2 stroke engines, so can't say what the differences would be. Harvey/ Ga M-17 Stargazer #294

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Re: M_Boats: Marking The Waterline
by s.mcclellan＠attbi.com 25 Feb '03

25 Feb '03

All methods of putting a level waterline on a boat when it's sitting on a trailer on land presuppose that the boat has somehow been leveled exactly as it will sit when it's in the water. This would be essentially impossible, as I see it. -- Steve McClellan~~M15~#152~~Chicago

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Marking The Waterline...More
by Wilsometer＠aol.com 25 Feb '03

25 Feb '03

Group, I have been following the string regarding marking the waterline, and have a few things to add. I use lasers in construction on an almost daily basis, and I believe that the laser idea is a great one provided that, as Connie says, that the laser and the entire desired waterline (both sides) of the boat are on the same plane. I have several lasers: a 'Robolaser', a more sophisticated 'David White' rotating laser, and a simple torpedo level with integrated laser. The former two are self leveling--which is to say that the laser mechanism inside the case is a pendulum, and will always cast a line/dot that is on a level plane. The latter has to be leveled via two vials. Any of these, when mounted on my height adjustable tripod, is capable of a moving dot or line (manual in the case of the torpedo laser) that will give you a virtual slice through a plane. The trick is to get the boat's desired waterline on the same plane as the laser. Might I suggest the following method for waterline marking? My boat (was still 'new' when I picked it up) had three grease pencil markings on the hull--one on either side aft, and one at the bow. When I first launched, these marks lined up more or less perfectly with the actual waterline. I would propose that you load the boat/distribute your anticipated gear, engine, etc. (perhaps humans too), and then with a grease pencil, mark the actual waterline with three marks per side from the dock (transom/hull intersection, amidships below shrouds, and bow). These marks will provide you the means of confirming that the laser is in fact on the same plane (fore to aft, and port to starboard). If the laser is leveled, but the boat is not, or if the waterline is not too be level on account of the way the boat sits in the water do to loading, etc., the adjustment can be made by raising or lowering the tongue, and/or by jacking one side of the trailer. You may have to raise or lower the level's elevation as the adjustments are made, but it would be best to keep it level in all directions (consistent level plane) and adjust the boat accordingly. You know that you have it right when the laser dot or line exactly hits all of the marks on the hull (both sides). Eventually, you will need to move the laser to the opposite side of the hull for marking the actual line, but while confirming/adjusting the boat relative to the laser plane, try setting up the laser so that the dot/line plane is just below the hull. You can then use a tape measure (held plumb from the marks on the hull down to the laser dot/line) to verify all six marks without having to move the laser and recalibrate. When you do move the laser from side to side, make three or more reference marks on opposing walls (or some stationary object other than the boat) to use for recalibrating your laser plane. This may sound complicated, but in fact is very easy (especially with the Stabila level tripod that allows for vertical changes in the laser plane without affecting level). Many of the less expensive lasers out there will fi t a standard photo tripod. I know the laser, when set up properly, will work with rounded objects. We have used one to set up mounts for a huge above ground water tank. Good luck! Scott Grometer, M15 #478 'bebe'

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Choice of Varnish/Oil/Cetol for new tiller
by Shawn Boles 24 Feb '03

24 Feb '03

Hi All: Grey Mist is getting a new tiller and I wonder whether members of the list have a preference for finishes. Sailing is primarily fresh-water and I plan on a tiller cover made from sunbrella. cheers- Shawn Boles Grey Mist (M17 #276 1978)

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